Re: question for long distance riders

I don't know exactly how your cranksa re attached (being new to the
sport) but my old 24" cyclpro cranks were a 10mm bolt. I used a small
wrench, closed ends, double sided, one end 8mm, the other 10mm, that
came with a snowboarding tool I got a few years ago. Snowboard shops
might have something like that for boarders. It's small, flat, fits in
a wallet or pouch, or in my case, the 8mm end is on my key ring.

--
evil-nick - One-Wheeled Psycho!

They make them with two wheels now?
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siafirede said:

*I need to buy some tools to bring with me on long distance rides, to
tighten my cranks every now and then and tighten my pedals. Will the
crank arm puller also tighten the cranks here:

http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=731
*

No, that looks like a kit for taking off cranks, but Ican't see anything
in there that will tighten them- you'll need a socket wrench for that.

The pullers good though, that's the type I use.

Just in case you're as stupid as me, I'll give you an invaluable crank
removal tip- if, when the pullers screwed on, the crank seems really
tight, check to see that you've remembered to take off the crank nuts
first- I've twice fallen for this easy-to-make mistake 🙂

--
onewheeldave - Semi Skilled Unicyclist

"He's also been known to indulge in a spot of flame juggling - but it's
the Muni that really fires him up."

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onewheeldave said:

*
No, that looks like a kit for taking off cranks, but Ican't see
anything in there that will tighten them- you'll need a socket wrench
for that. *

If the crank bolts are 14 mm then the socket on the end of the crank
puller will suffice for both tightening and loosening. There are flats
on the puller tool for the wrench. It's tough to do but possible. The
key is to push down on the puller as you pull up on the end of the
wrench.

With a 6" wrench you'll need to pull and push with about 120 lbs to get
it tight enough (assumes an effective 4" wrench). Padding for your
hands helps tremendously. Sometimes just pressing down on the wrench
with your foot is enough, but most of the time the socket or wrench will
just come off.

--
cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

Optimists think the glass is half full. Pesimists think the glass is
half empty. Engineers think the glass is too big.
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I won't used an adjustable unless I can't find the proper socket or
closed end - it's to easy to damage the nut or bolt.:eek: 😠 🙁
Besides, any socket wrench will have better torque.

You'll also want a pump or co2 inflator.

--
brian.slater - Nellfurtiti, the Wonder Cat

Brian C. Slater
AKA: Snoopy

Ok, I am now officially in my normal state of -advanced- confusion.
Don't try to confuse me, it won't make any difference.

"To not decide is to decide" - undecided
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onewheeldave said:

*

Just in case you're as stupid as me, I'll give you an invaluable crank
removal tip- if, when the pullers screwed on, the crank seems really
tight, check to see that you've remembered to take off the crank nuts
first- I've twice fallen for this easy-to-make mistake 🙂 *

I have imagined with above I WAS SPECIAL.U have diabused me from this
assumption.
I have done it few times but once I have destroyed puller and the crank
thread.😉 😉

--
Uniwitold

Veni !Vidi !Mount ! ' Public does not perceive it reacts'. Greg
Harper.
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siafirede wrote:*Does that repair kit look like a

Quoted message said:

good purchase? *

I bring the equivalent, minus the crank tool, with me on every ride. I
don't anticipate needing to pull my cranks on the average ride, so
instead I focus on the tools for things that likely _will_ need
adjusting. An allen wrench for each size fitting on my cycle, a crescent
wrench for the pedals, tire removal tool, patch kit, mini-pump. As of
today, my distance tool kit also includes a mini-can of "fix a flat"
made for bicycles. Not sure how well it works, but if the alternative is
trying to get my Coker tire off an airfoil rim out by the side of the
trail, I'll try it.

I also have one of those "Crash Packs" unicycle.com sells, in the event
of road rash opportunities.

--
tomblackwood - Registered Nurtz

Tailgate at your own risk.....

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I always carry:

Small pump.
Crank tool (with built in 14 mm socket to remove the nut; available from
any good bike shop.)
16 mm spanner to operate crank tool.
15 mm spanner to tighten pedals.
10 and 11 mm spanners (fit bearing holder nuts, and seat bolts. Some
unis one size, some the other.)
Flat blade screw driver (for removing dust caps.)
Cross point screwdriver (tightening seat bumpers).
(In fact, I have a double ended screwdriver)
Set of three tyre levers.
Puncture kit.
Allen keys (although, now I think about it, I took the Allen bolt seat
clamp off and put the old QR back on, so I could save weight there!)

--
Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

Well, it all depends on what you mean by "semantics".
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I find responsible riders and tag along with them. Some of them carry
food and water as well as tools!

--
iunicycle - Old back, new cricks
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iunicycle said:

*I find responsible riders and tag along with them. Some of them carry
food and water as well as tools! *

Aha, one who admits it! For riders like you, I always carry one or more
$5 Cotterless Crank Nuts. They're real cheap in the bike shop or at the
car, but on the trail they're worth $5! I guess now I'll have to add a
cotterless crank bolt, though I suppose those are less likely to fall
off?

On MUni rides I carry a small pump (fits presta and schrader), a
multi-tool that contains 4,5, and 6mm hexes and screwdrivers, a Swiss
Army knife, and often a 14mm Park crank wrench. Plus some tiny tire
patch kits.

The exact tools you need will depend on your unicycle. My last two new
high-end unicycles have both forced me to buy new tools to take off
their bearing holders. The Wilder and the GB4 both use non-metric bolts.
WHY???

--
johnfoss - Walkin' on the edge

John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
"jfoss" at "unicycling.com"
www.unicycling.com

"if you can do balloon animals,you can lace your own wheel." -- Jagur
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