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Re: Portable Unicycle

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01 / Original postRe: Portable Unicyclejohnfoss · 30 Jan 2006 02 / This pagePosts 1–20Page 1 of 3 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #53GILD · 2 Mar 2006

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
30 January 2006
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2 March 2006
Original author
johnfoss
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53
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Cantilever and V-brakesInner tubes

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  1. Original post
    johnfoss
    Archived post
    #1

    I agree with Tuna on the limitations of space saved by your hinge
    location. The seat will hit the tire and the unicycle will, for the
    most part, still take up as much space. It will be less tall, but
    longer front-to-back.

    The ceiling hook idea makes for very convenient storage. To further get
    the unicycles out of the way add a second hook for each. Hang the
    wheel, then use the second hook to bring the seat up to the ceiling.
    Ceiling hooks can be found at Home Depot for a buck apiece (if you like
    yellow or orange). Then it's just a question of household aesthetics.
    If you wanted them out in the room, you probably already thought of
    it.

    A secondary drawback of the hinge idea is that it's going to make your
    frames heavier. The cruder the design, the more weight you'll add.
    Upward forces on the frame would probably not pose as much problem as
    the twisting forces of normal riding. You'd want the two halves of the
    frame to lock together somehow so the connecting area isn't just flat.
    Otherwise all the forces will pass through the hinge pin and locking
    mechanism.

    I still advise you look into the Pichler unicycles.

    --
    johnfoss

    John Foss
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
    -----------------------------------------------

    "Idiot America—where fact is merely that which enough people believe,
    and truth is measured only by how fervently they believe it." --
    Charles Pierce, in Esquire Magazine
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  2. unicycle6869
    Archived post
    #2

    [Threadjack]

    johnfoss said:

    I agree with Tuna on the limitations of space saved by your hinge ....

    John, FYI-Tuna was my old name and I haven't used it for a long time.
    Call me tuna if you really want but it might be helpful to others to
    call me 6869 or Jamey or something like that?? Just an idea...

    [end of threadjack]

    --
    unicycle6869

    Jamey (formerly known as tuna6869)

    Which is worse, a president who screws an intern, or a president who
    screws the country?

    *20 Years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
    didn't do than by the things you did-EXPLORE-DREAM-LIVE!
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  3. GILD
    Archived post
    #3

    Maybe a two-piece frame where the top piece slides into slots on the
    bottom piece and locks into place?

    --
    GILD

    'three short gs and a long e-flat™'
    (http://w3.rz-berlin.mpg.de/cmp/beethoven_sym5_1.wav) - 'world jump
    day' (http://www.worldjumpday.org/)
    'if i'm murdered, don't execute my killer.'
    (http://www.inthesetimes.com/site/main/article/1539/)
    'harper' (http://tinyurl.com/c9epx)
    'NAMASTE!' (http://tinyurl.com/4qcxw)
    'Dave' (http://www.lyricsdir.com/d/deep-purple/child-in-time.php)
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  4. Tellurider
    Archived post
    #4

    I know you are looking for something more complicated and I already
    mentioned this but removing the seat post/seat will make the unicycle
    store in the same space as a crown that seperates. Because the wheel is
    round and the space you are storing the unicycles in is square the seat
    tube/crown fits in one of the corners. JC mentioned that the seat post
    is greasy but a quick wipe with a paper towel will take care of that
    and you realy don't need to keep your seat post all that greasy anyway.
    There are several high quality quick releases available salsa flip lock
    is probably the best or just keep an allen key there in your closet. If
    you make a small mark on your seat post with the corner of a file where
    you like your seat height it makes it easy to put your seat back where
    you like it. I know you have already heard this but maybe try it and
    see how they store It may not help that much taking them apart anyway
    and it would save you money.

    --
    Tellurider

    There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness".
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  5. TheObieOne3226
    Archived post
    #5

    Think about how simple/effective this would be. Cuts the frame in half,
    uses existing technology.

    Different size tubing as below...each fits inside the other and clamps
    around it with a seatpost clamp (need 2 different sizes), remove the
    one at the crown to reduce size, use the seatpost one to adjust seat
    hieght.

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: compact uni.JPG |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11836 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

    --
    TheObieOne3226

    'SWAT Gallery' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/SWAT)
    'SWAT webpage' (singlewheeledattackteam.1hwy.com)
    'Arrow Racing' (http://www.arrowracing.com/)
    'Sixsixone' (http://www.sixsixone.com)

    \"obie is definately a trend setter, i got in to unicycling because of
    him, and came here because of him\" - kj-52

    \"try not to annoy the great obie, for he is better than us.\" - murde
    mental

    *disclaimer: the above message was not intended to offend anyone. if
    you are offended i can take no responsibility for my actions because i
    don't feel like it. also you are reading an internet newsgroup where
    not everyone will share your same views and beliefs, be able to take
    criticism and post/read threads at your own risk.*
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  6. paco
    Archived post
    #6

    Obie and Tellurider;

    You're making me look bad for thinking too hard about this! 😉

    Seriously, though, I checked on the idea of the uni fitting in the same
    space if you take off the seat and seatpost. I haven't checked with a
    24" or larger, but from my calculations, a 20" -won't- fit in the same
    space if you take off the seatpost. My design comes drawing over the
    top of a real 20" trials unicycle, so the proportions should be
    correct. It definitely cuts down the size by quite a bit, and is not a
    bad idea if I ever want to travel with my Uni. But it ruins the
    coolness factor of coming up with a new design!

    I'm wondering about Obie's design. I think that in order to keep the
    neck from bending, you'd have to make the "crown clamp tubing"
    relatively long, which would make it taller. Plus, I'm wondering about
    the torque on that location (that's essentially where the seat torque
    is transferred to the wheel section) if it might be too much for a
    quick-release.

    I'm sorry if it sounds like I'm criticizing anyone's designs. I have
    to do mental Research and Development because if I do end up building
    one of these, all I'll be able to afford is a prototype!

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: WheelBoxAndRotatedSmall.bmp |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11839 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

    --
    paco

    Every time I see this thread I wonder what happened to Paco's back.
    -John Childs
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  7. unicycle6869
    Archived post
    #7

    I know you don't want to hear this, but if your seat post clamp was only
    1" above the fork and you had a really long seat post (or a seat post
    with an extension), then it would fit in the same space!

    --
    unicycle6869

    Jamey (formerly known as tuna6869)

    Which is worse, a president who screws an intern, or a president who
    screws the country?

    *20 Years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
    didn't do than by the things you did-EXPLORE-DREAM-LIVE!
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  8. Tellurider
    Archived post
    #8

    Yeah the smaller the wheel the longer the seat tube. And the bigger the
    wheel the shorter the seat tube so on a larger wheel it works out. But
    not on a 20". i also understand that it is fun to design and build
    something new and different. Have fun with it! Dan.

    --
    Tellurider

    There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness".
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  9. paco
    Archived post
    #9
    GILD said:

    Maybe a two-piece frame where the top piece slides into slots on the
    bottom piece and locks into place?

    I guess our minds still think alike (CFPGM); I drew this during the
    weekend. This would take care of upward and downward pressure and any
    problems with torque; the problem I'm visualizing now is that there
    can't be any space between the pieces, or the neck and seat will rattle
    and wobble as you ride.

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: 3DCrown SlidePlansSmall.jpg |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11841 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

    --
    paco

    Every time I see this thread I wonder what happened to Paco's back.
    -John Childs
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  10. Tellurider
    Archived post
    #10

    Yeah that would be hard to make with tight enough tolerances so that it
    doesn't rattle and how are you going to clamp it together. It also
    looks like overkill and will be heavy. I like the idea of a hinge that
    when hinged it comes apart, and then something like bolts that swing up
    and have big wing nut on them to clamp the two halves together.

    --
    Tellurider

    There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness".
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  11. lleberg
    Archived post
    #11

    Why don't just go with the quick release bearing houses? 🙂
    Would save quite a bit of space, you'ld have to detatch the seatpost
    though to get it really small.

    --
    lleberg

    I <3 my unicycle!
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  12. Tellurider
    Archived post
    #12
    lleberg said:

    Why don't just go with the quick release bearing houses? 🙂
    Would save quite a bit of space, you'ld have to detatch the seatpost
    though to get it really small.

    I have those on my coker (36"😉 and they work great. I got them from
    Jim_Rob. They work great on a coker but with a 20" I dont think it
    would help all that much from a storage stand point. It makes it so I
    can put my coker in the trunck of my car along with luggage other wise
    the coker takes up the whole space. It only takes a minute to take it
    apart or put it back together. They don't work well with the magura
    brakes because you have to let the air out of your tire to get the
    wheel off so I built my coker with V-brakes.

    --
    Tellurider

    There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness".
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  13. paco
    Archived post
    #13

    I know it's been mentioned before, and I think I have a workable idea,
    but does anyone know how strong and durable quick releases are? Would
    two of them withstand the force of holding the dual crown together,
    even when pulling up on the seat while jumping or going downhill? I'm
    starting my latest design, but if quick releases aren't strong enough,
    it's back to the drawing board (again).

    --
    paco

    Every time I see this thread I wonder what happened to Paco's back.
    -John Childs
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  14. paco
    Archived post
    #14

    If quick releases are strong enough, then here's my latest design. It's
    actually a lot simpler than my other designs, and relies on $5 to $50
    fasteners that can be easily replaced if broken.

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: 2DQuickRelease.jpg |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11843 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

    --
    paco

    Every time I see this thread I wonder what happened to Paco's back.
    -John Childs
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  15. GILD
    Archived post
    #15

    So, when are you building this and taking over the unicycling world?

    --
    GILD

    'three short gs and a long e-flat™'
    (http://w3.rz-berlin.mpg.de/cmp/beethoven_sym5_1.wav) - 'world jump
    day' (http://www.worldjumpday.org/)
    'if i'm murdered, don't execute my killer.'
    (http://www.inthesetimes.com/site/main/article/1539/)
    'harper' (http://tinyurl.com/c9epx)
    'NAMASTE!' (http://tinyurl.com/4qcxw)
    'Dave' (http://www.lyricsdir.com/d/deep-purple/child-in-time.php)
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  16. freddy
    Archived post
    #16

    I think paco's idea is the best one. It will be difficult to get the
    same seat post height each time with all the clamps.

    --
    freddy

    Fredrik, Norway. )--O
    My little album: http://tinyurl.com/dvf6s
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  17. Tellurider
    Archived post
    #17

    I think that quick realeases are strong enough, think about the forces
    on a bike that is held to a car roof rack by the front fork with a
    quick release. I think it would be good if the two plates interlock so
    that the quick releases are just holding the plates together but not
    being subjected to twisting forces as well.

    --
    Tellurider

    There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness".
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  18. GILD
    Archived post
    #18

    Yeah, make the top plate slightly smaller and give the lower one a
    slight lip.

    --
    GILD

    'three short gs and a long e-flat™'
    (http://w3.rz-berlin.mpg.de/cmp/beethoven_sym5_1.wav) - 'world jump
    day' (http://www.worldjumpday.org/)
    'if i'm murdered, don't execute my killer.'
    (http://www.inthesetimes.com/site/main/article/1539/)
    'harper' (http://tinyurl.com/c9epx)
    'NAMASTE!' (http://tinyurl.com/4qcxw)
    'Dave' (http://www.lyricsdir.com/d/deep-purple/child-in-time.php)
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  19. boo radley
    Archived post
    #19

    i think someone already mentioned this. picture shows the magic unicycle
    on the left, unicycle with seat tube trimmed down to 2" on the right.
    all you need is a quick release clamp and longer seat post. you might
    save about an inch by building your prototype.

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: untitled.JPG |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/11851 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

    --
    boo radley

    "plus Maxxis tyres suck... a tyre made of cheese will last longer"

    "no really, are you sure you love me more than your unicycle?" -my gf
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  20. theanswerisnt42
    Archived post
    #20

    I don't know if somebody already mentioned this. But you could put one
    of these in the frame right above the fork, before the seatpost. the
    only thing is that these arent so cheap... But they are plenty strong
    and will resist twisting of any sort.

    http://www.sandsmachine.com/

    --
    theanswerisnt42
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