Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Re: fixed gear chainline question

Started by Dan · · Last activity · 3 posts · 666 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
14 November 2006
Last activity
15 November 2006
Original author
Dan
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  1. Derekcommonground said:

    i'm building up my first bike... i'ts got a flip flop hub and i just
    spent the evening putting in the bottom bracket, crank arms, pedals and
    put the rear wheel on... but the chainline looks pretty off to me. the
    chainring seems kind of far out, and the cog seems more towards the
    middle. i know i can't adjust the spacing on the hub otherwise i won't
    be able to use the flip flop... and there is a washer/spacer in the
    drive side of the bottom bracket i can take out, but i'm not confident
    it will be enough to make the chainline perfect. is there anything else
    i can do? i think i can get it close enough to be safe, but i'd like to
    get it as best i can.

    thanks,
    Derek

    We really need to know what cranks you are using. If you are using a
    road crank, put the ring on the inside and add spacers as required.
    Measure the offset from center line to the chainwheel and to the cog to
    determine the spacer size you want.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed.html#bolts

    Scroll down to "chainwheel Spacers" Make sure your bolts are long
    enough. The spacers come in different sizes and the bolts can be bought
    in different lengths.

    Call up loose screws and tell them what you want:
    http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Crank/Chainring&sc=Chainring%20Spacers&id=225300131095
    http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Crank/Chainring&sc=Chainring%20Fixing%20Bolts/Nuts&id=225300131095

  2. Derekcommonground said:

    i'm using a 118mm hollow spindle in my isis bottom bracket, the
    chainring is already on the inside, so those chainring spacers look
    like they'd be really helpful. does it matter if the chainring doesn't
    sit in the indented part of the spider?

    No.

    Quoted message said:

    here's the bb/crank i'm using:
    http://tinyurl.com/ukr3o

    I assume you've take off the existing chain rings and are using just
    one.

    Quoted message said:

    and here's the hub/wheel i'm using:
    http://tinyurl.com/y4n84w

    i don't think using a shorter spindle is an option,

    It might be. The only danger I can think of is that the 5 bosses for
    the inner chain ring bolts might hit the frame. Otherwise you should be
    able to use any shorter ISIS bb.

    Quoted message said:

    but if i take out
    the spacer and add some chainring spacers, that will definetly help.

    also, i think i'm going to have to get a new chainring/chain as the
    chain i had seemed to fit fine on the chainring, but the tooth size
    seems larger on the cog...

    Probably so. Your cog sounds like it may be 1/2 x 1/8", rather than
    1/2/ x 3/32". I like the Wippermann Wesstern (White Star) chain for
    track and single speed. It's not even that expensive.
    http://www.businesscycles.com/tchain-wip.htm

    Quoted message said:

    thanks a lot!
    Derek

    --
    Derekcommonground

  3. Derekcommonground wrote:
    ---snip---

    Quoted message said:

    i'm using a 118mm hollow spindle in my isis bottom bracket, the
    chainring is already on the inside, so those chainring spacers look
    like they'd be really helpful. does it matter if the chainring doesn't
    sit in the indented part of the spider?


    ---/snip---

    Quoted message said:

    Derekcommonground

    118 sounds pretty long. How much clearance do you have between the
    crank arms and the chainstays? If more than 6 or 7mm, you might want
    to try a road ISIS BB (108.5 IIRC).

    The spacer between the DS cup and BB shell are likely to allow a single
    BB to be used with 68 or 73mm shells. Try to remove it, but you may be
    SOL.

    If all else fails, you may be able to track down a square taper crank
    (try takeoffs at your LBS), which will open the door to numerous
    spindle lengths - ISIS is a standard, with fixed lengths for road and
    MTB. square taper cranks will be available in flavors of 102 to 122+
    to meet your specific needs.

    HTH,
    SYJ

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