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Raliegh Twenty Overhaul questions

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 January 2007
Last activity
19 January 2007
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Sirrus Rider
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  1. About a year and a half ago I scored a pair of Raleigh Twenties off of
    E-pay. One was mostly ridable the second is a bit of a basket case. One
    green and one brown. Anyhow both need overhaul as the chains are dry and
    rather gritty; consequently I want to pull the chains off to clean and
    re-lube them . My question is what sort of chain does it use? Is it
    masterlinked? Or do I use a chainbreaker? I looked for a master link but I
    didn't find one. (It didn't jump out at me)

    The green one is the one that is in very good (ridable) condition and in
    correspondence with Sheldon Brown I determined that the dynohub (Sturmey
    Archer gh6) is missing parts (Bad news), but still generates power. After
    very carefully dismantling it and regreasing it (this one had no oil port
    on the axel housing) determined that the both right side and left side cones
    are flat wrong for the hub. In face the left (small) side leaves the
    bearings exposed! My long term goal is to follow Shedlon's example and
    convert one or both of them into what I term "Product Improved" Raleigh
    Twenties with one following the spirit of the classic English three-speed
    (but more than likely do 8speeds with the Sturmey Archer 8 speed rear hub)
    by being set up for commuting.

    For the short term to get one back on the road I'm probably going to steal
    the more conventional front wheel from the brown one and when funds become
    available have a new wheelset created for each bike over time. Seeing the
    green had an Sturmey Archer GH6 hub I'm inclined to try to stay close to the
    original spirit of this particular bike and install an updated generatorhub
    in it place along with new allow rims. My question on this is: Which
    generator hub to use? I like the idea of using the new Sturmey Archer X-FDD
    dynohub(Front dynohub with an integral drum brake) to keep an all English
    flavor to the bike, but in researching what to do I read that dynohubs have
    to be designed/optimzed to the wheel size the hub is going to used with. I
    can't seem to find any specs for this Sturmey Archer to know if it would
    work optimally on the 20" wheel size and the only manufacturer that seems to
    make a "dynohub" for 20" 36 spoke wheels is SON; however, no one has a price
    listed for this dyno hub. (And I'm suspecting it might be a case of if you
    have to ask the price you probably can't afford it.). I would also consider
    the Nexus, but it doesn't come as a 36 holer. What is the general consensus
    on generator hubs? What would you do if you had a pair of Twenties to play
    with?

    John

  2. Sirrus Rider wrote:
    [R20snip]
    My question is what sort of chain does it use? Is it

    Quoted message said:

    masterlinked? Or do I use a chainbreaker? I looked for a master link but I
    didn't find one. (It didn't jump out at me)

    It can use whatever chain you've got, from a 6/7 speed number to a pink
    bmx model. I suggest a KMC single speed chain in gold, as it's
    inexpensive and impresses the ladies.

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    My long term goal is to follow Shedlon's example and
    convert one or both of them into what I term "Product Improved" Raleigh
    Twenties with one following the spirit of the classic English three-speed
    (but more than likely do 8speeds with the Sturmey Archer 8 speed rear hub)
    by being set up for commuting.

    AFAIK, the SA8 hub is 130mm spacing. No big deal to respace the drops,
    but if you don't want to bother, an Sram P5 hub should fit as is.

  3. On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 02:09:46 -0600, "Sirrus Rider"

    may have said:

    About a year and a half ago I scored a pair of Raleigh Twenties off of
    E-pay. One was mostly ridable the second is a bit of a basket case. One
    green and one brown. Anyhow both need overhaul as the chains are dry and
    rather gritty; consequently I want to pull the chains off to clean and
    re-lube them . My question is what sort of chain does it use? Is it
    masterlinked? Or do I use a chainbreaker? I looked for a master link but I
    didn't find one. (It didn't jump out at me)

    It could have just about any kind of regular bike chain on it. The OE
    chain did not use a snaplink. To remove the chain in the absence of a
    snaplink, no "special" tool is required, just a regular bike chain
    breaker.

    Quoted message said:

    ...What would you do if you had a pair of Twenties to play
    with?

    I'd probably get nagged about "what, we needed two more of those
    little ones?"

    After that, I think I would be tempted to follow what you've outlined.
    I'd start running daily searches on eBay to come up with a suitable
    genhub for the one that's generatorless now, and a pair of gearhubs to
    update both. I wouldn't worry about whether the replacement hubs are
    optimized for 20 inch wheels; the worst that can happen is that you'll
    end up with a hub that was designed for 26", and the output will be
    higher than you expected. (It's unwise to use a 20"-optimized hub on
    a 26" wheel, as it won't have much output at low speeds.) For the hub
    that has the wrong cones installed, my personal short-term solution
    would be dependent on the cones that are present. If they will
    function effectively with the hub but are simply unsuitable due to
    lack of sealing, I'd build leather temporary shields (this is actually
    just using tech that's from the earliest days of bicycles), take
    measurements of the seal bore in the hub and other relevant
    dimensions, and in My Copious Spare Time[TM] start a rummage search
    through the local shops to try to locate more suitable replacements.
    In the end, I suspect I'd probably end up cobbling together a mandrel
    and peeling a set of dust shields out of aluminum by hand; it's
    amazing what you can do with a set of files and a drill press if
    you're determined, careful and patient, but that's not everyone's cup
    of tea.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  4. John Lucci said:
    Quoted message said:

    My question is what sort of chain does it use? Is it
    masterlinked? Or do I use a chainbreaker? I looked for a master link but I
    didn't find one. (It didn't jump out at me)

    There will almost certainly be a master link.

    A well-meaning person said:

    It can use whatever chain you've got, from a 6/7 speed number to a pink
    bmx model.

    'Fraid not. The stock chainring and sprocket are only for 1/8" wide
    chain.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chains-wide.html

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My long term goal is to follow Shedlon's example and
    convert one or both of them into what I term "Product Improved" Raleigh
    Twenties with one following the spirit of the classic English three-speed
    (but more than likely do 8speeds with the Sturmey Archer 8 speed rear hub)
    by being set up for commuting.

    AFAIK, the SA8 hub is 130mm spacing. No big deal to respace the drops,
    but if you don't want to bother, an Sram P5 hub should fit as is.

    The brake-less Sturmey-Archer 8-speed uses similar spacing to the AW,
    somewhere in the 116-118 mm range. Fit nicely into my Raleigh Twenty.

    http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-twenty.html

    As to the generator hub issue, using one with a smaller wheel should
    work OK as long as you use a modern lamp, such as Busch & Müller, that
    includes solid-state voltage regulation circuitry.

    I used to have a Moulton with a Dynohub (349 mm / 16" wheels) and was
    never able to find a bulb that would both give good light _and_
    reasonable lifespan, but that was before zener diodes and the like.
    http://sheldonbrown.org/moulton-deluxe.html (That's a brand new page I
    put up yesterday.)

    Sheldon "Twenty" Brown
    +----------------------------------------+
    | Yes Britain set the world ablaze, |
    | In good King George's glorious days! |
    | --W.S. Gilbert |
    +----------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  5. Sheldon Brown said:

    The brake-less Sturmey-Archer 8-speed uses similar spacing to the AW,
    somewhere in the 116-118 mm range. Fit nicely into my Raleigh Twenty.

    http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-twenty.html

    The brakeless SA8 hub's spacing is claimed to be 124mm. 14mm is a bit
    much to "spring apart" I'd say. And you end up with that awful twist
    shifter. With the Sram, you can use a 5 speed trigger shifter, which is
    inherently less goofy than some goldbergian twist setup.

    http://www.cycle-world.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s336p334&z=526

  6. On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 10:36:24 -0600, Werehatrack

    may have said:

    It could have just about any kind of regular bike chain on it. The OE
    chain did not use a snaplink.

    Correction: Although I am informed that the OE chain did use a
    snaplink, whether it remains present will depend on who replaced it.

    A snaplink is a convenient thing to have on such a bike, for a variety
    of reasons. I'd have used one anyway, because I prefer using those
    instead of trying to push a pin back in.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  7. On 16 Jan 2007 08:53:13 -0800, "landotter" <[email hidden]> may

    have said:

    The brakeless SA8 hub's spacing is claimed to be 124mm. 14mm is a bit
    much to "spring apart" I'd say.

    Eh, I've seen that much done more than once. Seldom done well or
    professionally, and not to good effect in most cases. One memorable
    example was a 130mm-spacing wheel that was bludgeoned[1] into the rear
    of a cheap OPC single-speed frame. The chain was bent in two places,
    several of the cassette teeth were twisted and/or deformed, and the
    rest of the "bike" was just as abused. It was a police auction unit.
    the only useful part on the whole thing was the freehub.

    Quoted message said:

    And you end up with that awful twist
    shifter. With the Sram, you can use a 5 speed trigger shifter, which is
    inherently less goofy than some goldbergian twist setup.

    Ugh. Gripshifts. I hate gripshifts. I have yet to find one that I
    can stand. Of course, that's a matter of personal reference; I'm
    given to understand that there are people who really like them, and
    want them on all of their bikes[2]. (Maybe that's how the Kent
    Denali[3] ended up with a three-piece handle bar.)

    [1] probably literally; the frame showed signs of the use of a big
    hammer in that area.

    [2] I keep expecting to see a single-speed hit the market with fake
    gripshifts as a fashion statement.

    [3] yes, I know it's a BSO, not a "real bike". It's also one of the
    most goldbergian assemblies I've seen as a mainstream product.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  8. I wrote (from memory):

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    The brake-less Sturmey-Archer 8-speed uses similar spacing to the AW,
    somewhere in the 116-118 mm range. Fit nicely into my Raleigh Twenty.

    http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-twenty.html



    An anonymous poster replied:

    Quoted message said:


    The brakeless SA8 hub's spacing is claimed to be 124mm. 14mm is a bit
    much to "spring apart" I'd say. And you end up with that awful twist
    shifter. With the Sram, you can use a 5 speed trigger shifter, which is
    inherently less goofy than some goldbergian twist setup.

    http://www.cycle-world.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s336p334&z=526

    OK, today I managed to make it in to the shop, and hobbled upstairs to
    measure the one we have in stock.

    Here's the skinny:

    It is supplied at 124 mm, but that includes _two_ 6 mm thick locknuts
    on the left side.

    You really only need one cone locknut, so if you remove one of 'em you
    wind up with 118 mm spacing.

    If you want to go narrower than that, you can substitute a standard 3
    mm thick locknut, bringing the spacing to 115 mm.

    I think that's what I did on my personal Twenty, but it's difficult for
    me to get down to the cellar where it lives to check it out.

    Sheldon "Spaceman" Brown
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    | One measurement is worth 50 expert opinions |
    | --Howard Sutherland |
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  9. If my rusty memory serves me correctly, 1/8" chains had master links
    when i was a kid (1960's and 1970's).

    The 3/32 chains didn't have master links until later - perhaps in the
    late 1980's. Maybe this is because the 3/32 chains kept changing widths.

    In any event, a cyclo chain tool can still break a 5/6/7/8 speed chain
    and put it back together again - ANY CHAIN - EVEN AN SRAM WITH A
    MASTERLINK. You just need some balls and finesse to do it, that's
    all.

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  10. On 16 Jan 2007 17:45:16 -0800, [email hidden] (Donald Gillies) may

    have said:

    In any event, a cyclo chain tool can still break a 5/6/7/8 speed chain
    and put it back together again - ANY CHAIN - EVEN AN SRAM WITH A
    MASTERLINK. You just need some balls and finesse to do it, that's
    all.

    Just don't do what one nearby genius tried, and attempt to press the
    pin out of a snaplink using the chain tool.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  11. "Sheldon Brown" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

    Quoted message said:

    An anonymous poster replied:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The brakeless SA8 hub's spacing is claimed to be 124mm.

    Quoted message said:

    It is supplied at 124 mm, but that includes _two_ 6 mm thick
    locknuts on the left side.

    There are two versions, a 36h version that comes with a 170mm axle, 124mm
    OLN, and a 28h version with 155mm axle, 116mm OLN:

    http://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_8spd_XRF8.php

    You need to scroll down in the info panel to see the details of the 28h
    model.

    James Thomson

  12. Per Donald Gillies:

    Quoted message said:

    In any event, a cyclo chain tool can still break a 5/6/7/8 speed chain
    and put it back together again - ANY CHAIN - EVEN AN SRAM WITH A
    MASTERLINK. You just need some balls and finesse to do it, that's
    all.

    Problem I see with that is that one doesn't know that has exercised insufficient
    balls and finesse until it parts under load.

    And, depending on one's riding position/degree of effort when it parted, one
    might wind up with considerably bigger balls than when one started - at least
    for a week or so....
    --
    PeteCresswell

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