question about spoke tension

Brian MacKenzie said:

what happens if you true your wheel, get it nice and solid, and then
keep going around the rim 1/4 turning the spokes to keep making them
tighter?

If you rim is nice and true, wouldn't more tension on them, even, all
the way around, make it better?

Eventually the nipples round off.

But seriously, I've been wondering this myself as I've just built a 36"
wheel. Presumably if you got tensions high enough the forces in the rim
would start to be significant and the rim would become more likely to
fail. Also nipples pull out, spokes strip or possibly even pull out of
the hub.

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kington99

Dave

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multi-post

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multi-post

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Dave

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I think your nipples would give in. Something would strip.

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musketman said:

I think your nipples would give in. Something would strip.

*cough*

Mike

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Brian MacKenzie said:

what happens if you true your wheel, get it nice and solid, and then
keep going around the rim 1/4 turning the spokes to keep making them
tighter?

If you rim is nice and true, wouldn't more tension on them, even, all
the way around, make it better?

The truing process starts to gracefully fail at a certain point, so that
at that tension the wheel trueness won't zero in when you
stress-relieve it. At this point, back off a 1/4 or 1/2 turn on all
the nipples, and you're at the highest stable tension that wheel can
handle, which is the strongest that wheel can be. Stress relieve and
true that, and basically you're done.

--
U-Turn

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U-turn, so you have any more info online about stress relieving spokes?
I've been using sheldon brown's tutorial to build a 36" wheel but
didn't really understand his comments about stress relieving.

--
kington99

Dave

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kington99 said:

U-turn, so you have any more info online about stress relieving spokes?
I've been using sheldon brown's tutorial to build a 36" wheel but
didn't really understand his comments about stress relieving.

You could do a lot worse than acquiring a copy of "The Bicycle Wheel" by
Jobst Brandt:
http://tinyurl.com/2eu79a

It's not cheap, but if you want to build wheels then it's a worthwhile
buy, IMO.

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Another really good book is, "The Art of Wheelbuilding" by Gerd Schraner
$15.98 from Amazon. I used it to help me build my Coker Airfoil
wheel.

http://tinyurl.com/2ztvbd

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One on one

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That recently happened to a Friend of mine. First He tightened the
spokes. Then he rode for about 15 minutes and did a couple of rolling
hops and the first nipple pulled straight through. I don't know
anything about tension but I am leaving mine alone.🙄

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Dave
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kington99 said:

U-turn, so you have any more info online about stress relieving spokes?
I've been using sheldon brown's tutorial to build a 36" wheel but
didn't really understand his comments about stress relieving.

I developed my own approach using a combination of Sheldon's, Jobst
Brandt's, and Gerd Schraner's approaches.

--
U-Turn

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
'29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
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U-Turn said:

I developed my own approach using a combination of Sheldon's, Jobst
Brandt's, and Gerd Schraner's approaches.

Sounds like you need to make a book 🙂

--
Brian MacKenzie

DVDs now available from www.LBMmultimedia.com :
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'Training Wheel Not Required'
(http://www.LBMmultimedia.com/videos/TWNR.wmv)
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I'm still an armature to truing the wheel, I rebuilt a few 36" wheels a
year ago, and since it all worked out, I sorta enjoyed the process.
This is how I remember it,

It was cool the way truing the wheel works with adjusting the spokes
and relieving the tension. It's no use to adjust the spokes alone.
Have the hub securely captured by the axle, after adjusting the spokes,
grab hold of the rim, each hand ~180 degrees from the other, and give
it a push-pull. You'll hear the spokes creak as the stored tension of
adjusted spoke is released and distributed across the wheel. You'll
notice the tension balancing out as you then move your hand position's
by ~90 degrees and push-pull again. Between each step of tightening
the spokes, or adjusting to true, this flexing of things is necessary.

As things tighten up, you should feel the wheel stiffen up with each
push-pulls. I said push-pull, but it can really be more of twisting
action, so your not pushing over your stand. Your just trying to move
things a bit to break the friction, not break the wheel.

--
Chrashing

Regards,
Ken ... a recreational unicyclist... Please wear a helmet!
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