qu-ax creak

on a splined crank use Bullshot or Finish Line grease.... no need for
loctite on a splined crank.

if the creak continues, its inside the hub shell.

PS, tighten crank bolt first, then the pinch bolt.

--
jagur - Sealed in Carbonite

Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast.
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Thanks for the tips. Ive greased up the splines and tightened everything
but im still getting a creak.

Im not sure now whether its coming from the cranks or not, could it be
the bearing holders? How tight should these be?

--
skicker
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skicker said:

*Thanks for the tips. Ive greased up the splines and tightened
everything but im still getting a creak.

Im not sure now whether its coming from the cranks or not, could it be
the bearing holders? How tight should these be? *

The bearing holders should be tight enough to be snug but not so tight
that they bind the bearings. It's a fine line between snug and too
tight. It is very easy to overtighten the bearing holders.

The noise could also be coming from the spokes creaking and rubbing
against each other. Try putting a little grease where the spokes cross
each other. If the noise is from the spokes it is a sign that the
spokes need to be properly tensioned and stress relieved. If that's the
problem then take the wheel to a good bike shop that likes to build
wheels and have them tighten all of the spokes. Wheels built on an
assembly line are often not tensioned and stress relieved properly so
they need a little TLC from your local wheel builder to make them good.

--
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Thanks for all the help.

Looks like it was the bearing holders. After the creaking started it
tried tightening them and it looks like i actually bent bottom parts of
the housing by tightening too much. Taking them off, cleaning up the
bearings (which had got a bit of rust on them), greasing everything up,
bending the holders back into shape using a impact adjustment tool
(hammer) and putting everything back together seems to have stopped the
creak.

Those bearing holders dont seem very sturdy though, the lollipop ones on
my old pashley, which everyone says are rubbish, look a lot stronger and
less likely to cause this kind of thing. In any rate i think i might try
and find some nylon tubes or something to put on the bolts in the gap
between the top and bottom bearing holder pieces. At least that would
stop me bending them again and would take some crushing pressure off the
bearings. Anyone have any ideas of something i could use for that?

Cheers

--
skicker
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Please put me in the "not rubbish" camp. My Pashley 26" MUni with a
Gazz 26x2.6, after upgrading just about everything 😄, is a really nice
machine. I haven't had any problems with the bearing holders. They are
a little fiddly, as are the main-cap style, and the Miyata style, but
they are definitely not rubbish. And they house the bearings perfectly.
Some of the more modern frame designs do a "main cap" much better and
seem to combine the best of the main cap and the lollipop designs. They
are more like a split lollipop and are more convenient, but still house
the bearings nicely.

David Bagley, known as UW here, puts dense rubber washers between those
arms on his Sem 2-wheeler. They seemed to have worked wonders for the
two-wheeler, and he is getting quite good on it, practicing regularly.
So you might have the same experience with a normal frame.

--
U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
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'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
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-- Dave Stockton
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