Road Cycling · Public discussion

punctures, narrow tyres & commuting.

Started by P Cooper · · Last activity · 17 posts · 1,393 views

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Road Cycling
Published
5 July 2004
Last activity
10 July 2004
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P Cooper
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  1. as a commuting cyclist i use my (trek) bike just 7 miles
    each way, road, tarmaced path & uneven paving slabs. Ive
    gradually been reducing the size of the tyres (resistance
    etc - seems logical to me)

    Ive got 700x25 (schwalbe) on the back - which is where the
    problem is ive been having punctures approx 2/wk- ive got a
    kevlar tyre & that green band inside , so i dont think its
    penetration blowouts. I've tried a variety of pressures
    between 70 psi and 115 ( the pressure it states on the tyre)
    and am still getting the problem , even replacing the inner
    tube each time. Im getting really hacked off with this. Too
    narrow tyre? wrong pressures ( FWIW im 89Kg) ? anything else
    I dont know about ?

  2. p cooper said:

    as a commuting cyclist i use my (trek) bike just 7 miles
    each way, road, tarmaced path & uneven paving slabs. Ive
    gradually been reducing the size of the tyres (resistance
    etc - seems logical to me)

    Ive got 700x25 (schwalbe) on the back - which is where the
    problem is ive been having punctures approx 2/wk- ive got a
    kevlar tyre & that green band inside , so i dont think its
    penetration blowouts. I've tried a variety of pressures
    between 70 psi and 115 ( the pressure it states on the
    tyre) and am still getting the problem , even replacing the
    inner tube each time. Im getting really hacked off with
    this. Too narrow tyre? wrong pressures ( FWIW im 89Kg) ?
    anything else I dont know about ?

    Can you describe the punctures? Where are they on the tube-
    inner, outer, side? A tear, a couple of dots, a single hole?
    Does the location in relation to the tire change, or is it
    always in the same location?

  3. "Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    p cooper said:

    as a commuting cyclist i use my (trek) bike just 7 miles
    each way, road, tarmaced path & uneven paving slabs. Ive
    gradually been reducing the


    size

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    of the tyres (resistance etc - seems logical to me)

    Ive got 700x25 (schwalbe) on the back - which is where
    the problem is ive been having punctures approx 2/wk- ive
    got a kevlar tyre & that


    green

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    band inside , so i dont think its penetration blowouts.
    I've tried a variety of pressures between 70 psi and 115
    ( the pressure


    it

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    states on the tyre) and am still getting the problem ,
    even replacing the inner tube each time. Im getting
    really hacked off with this. Too narrow tyre? wrong
    pressures ( FWIW im 89Kg) ? anything else I dont know
    about ?

    Can you describe the punctures? Where are they on the tube-
    inner, outer, side? A tear, a couple of dots, a single
    hole? Does the location in relation to the tire change, or
    is it always in the same location?


    May be he should read the Bicycle FAQ:

    More flates on rear tire: faqs.orgsection
    5.html

    Blow outs and sudden flats: faqs.orgsection
    2.html

    Blown tubes: faqs.orgsection
    3.html

    snakebite flats: faqs.orgsection
    1.html

    or tube failure in clincher tires: faqs.orgsection
    4.html

  4. "p cooper" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    as a commuting cyclist i use my (trek) bike just 7 miles
    each way, road, tarmaced path & uneven paving slabs. Ive
    gradually been reducing the size of the tyres (resistance
    etc - seems logical to me)

    Ive got 700x25 (schwalbe) on the back - which is where the
    problem is ive been having punctures approx 2/wk- ive got
    a kevlar tyre & that green band inside , so i dont think
    its penetration blowouts. I've tried a variety of
    pressures between 70 psi and 115 ( the pressure it states
    on the tyre) and am still getting the problem , even
    replacing the inner tube each time. Im getting really
    hacked off with this. Too narrow tyre? wrong pressures (
    FWIW im 89Kg) ? anything else I dont know about

    Once I was having this problem until i noticed a tiny piece
    of glass had worked its way through the tread and imbedded
    itself in the tire, putting a slow leak in each new tube.
    You might check the tire carefully.

  5. Hi,

    I'm starting to get back into cycling and was thinking of
    getting new pedals. The ones that don't use toe straps.
    Could anyone give me some recommendations? I don't need top
    of the line stuff. Also, do the shoe and the pedal have to
    be the same brand or are they interchangable?

    Thanks Dan

  6. "dreaded" wrote: (clip) a tiny piece of glass had

    Quoted message said:

    worked its way through the tread and imbedded itself in
    the tire, (clip)


    ^^^^^^^^^^ The giveaway clue here would be that the leak
    occurs in the same place each time (possibly in two
    places, if you are randomly reversing the tube. Pretty
    hard not to notice this, since you would be laying patches
    on top of patches.

  7. In article <[email hidden]>,

    dreaded said:

    Once I was having this problem until i noticed a tiny
    piece of glass had worked its way through the tread and
    imbedded itself in the tire, putting a slow leak in each
    new tube. You might check the tire carefully.

    Another cause is often a short, cut-off strand of inner
    cable inside the tire, accidentally picked up off a
    shop floor.

    At any rate, I'd suggest to the original poster that he
    should feel around the interior of the tire for sharp
    foreign objects. A cotton ball can be used if there is worry
    about pricking a fingertip; the cotton ball would palpably
    snag on any offending material.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  8. "DLCRCF" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi,

    I'm starting to get back into cycling and was thinking of
    getting new


    pedals.

    Quoted message said:

    The ones that don't use toe straps. Could anyone
    give me some


    recommendations?

    Quoted message said:

    I don't need top of the line stuff. Also, do the shoe and
    the pedal have


    to be

    Quoted message said:

    the same brand or are they interchangable?

    Thanks Dan

    I use crank brothers "egg beaters" for city use. they are
    easy to get in and out of, easy to clean, inexpensive, and
    have a little bit of free float. if you want shoes that you
    can walk around in you can get ones with a recessed cleat.
    SPD style shoes will work with the egg beaters as well as
    the shimano pedals, there are lots of ones with a recessed
    cleat. when i got the shoes and pedals I had the tech help
    me get the cleat angle perfect (he used a plumb off my knee
    while i was pedaling). if you have a pedal with a lot of
    float you dont really need to do this, but i recommend if
    you have any knee issues. hope this helps.

  9. ya i finally figured that out after three tubes. felt like
    a dillweed.

    "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message news:HMnGc.199272$Gx4.71526@bgtnsc04-
    news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

    Quoted message said:


    "dreaded" wrote: (clip) a tiny piece of glass had

    Quoted message said:

    worked its way through the tread and imbedded itself in
    the tire, (clip)


    ^^^^^^^^^^ The giveaway clue here would be that the leak
    occurs in the same place


    each

    Quoted message said:

    time (possibly in two places, if you are randomly
    reversing the tube. Pretty hard not to notice this, since
    you would be laying patches on top


    of

    Quoted message said:

    patches.

  10. In article <[email hidden]>,

    maxo said:

    You never know--currently I'm using 700x25 Nashbar Prima
    Plus 2's with the kevlar belt. They were on sale for less
    than ten bucks. Fairly supple and I got my first puncture
    after 1500 miles! That's with urban riding with lots of
    glass and construction debris.

    1500 miles is certainly a very good duration.

    Quoted message said:

    Dumb luck or an amazing batch of cheap tires? Who knows?

    If much of that use is in commuting, maybe you're taking
    extra care about what you roll over, so as not to be delayed
    on your way to work? I know when I've got serious deadlines
    to meet and people are counting on me to be there on time, I
    tend to be more careful about the road surface than when I'm
    just out riding for the heckuvit.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  11. p cooper said:

    as a commuting cyclist i use my (trek) bike just 7 miles
    each way, road, tarmaced path & uneven paving slabs. Ive
    gradually been reducing the size of the tyres (resistance
    etc - seems logical to me)

    Hmm. Not to me. See below.

    Quoted message said:

    Ive got 700x25 (schwalbe) on the back - which is where the
    problem is ive been having punctures approx 2/wk- ive got
    a kevlar tyre & that green band inside , so i dont think
    its penetration blowouts. I've tried a variety of
    pressures between 70 psi and 115 ( the pressure it states
    on the tyre) and am still getting the problem , even
    replacing the inner tube each time. Im getting really
    hacked off with this. Too narrow tyre? wrong pressures (
    FWIW im 89Kg) ? anything else I dont know about ?

    You've gotten some good replies. To mention a couple things
    they didn't:

    I've seen problems with rim strips that gave repeated flats.
    It's a variation on "something sharp hiding inside the
    tire." In one case, I patched a tube for someone else, and
    got a second flat within 15 feet!

    But as an aside, I'm not a fan of very narrow tires for
    commuting. The decrease in rolling resistance isn't very
    much, and they may actually increase rolling resistance on
    rough pavement. I use either 28s or 32s.

    If you're using a tire liner to prevent flats, you're adding
    rolling resistance right there!

    And if you're 89 kg, riding a 25 with just 70 psi, you
    shouldn't be surprised to get pinch flats!

    --
    --------------------+ Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove
    rodent and vegetable dot com, replace with cc.ysu dot edu]

  12. "DLCRCF" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi,

    I'm starting to get back into cycling and was thinking of
    getting new


    pedals.

    Quoted message said:

    The ones that don't use toe straps. Could anyone
    give me some


    recommendations?

    Quoted message said:

    I don't need top of the line stuff. Also, do the shoe and
    the pedal have to


    be

    Quoted message said:

    the same brand or are they interchangable?

    Just get some SPD clones, like those made by Wellgo. These
    pedals can be bought mail-order for $20-25 and work with any
    SPD-compatible (which is almost all) shoe. Decent, entry-
    level shoes can be had for $50 or less. Some Wellgo clones
    are compatible with Shimano, some aren't. The Wellgo 820
    pedal works with Shimano cleats, the Wellgo 98A cleat works
    with Shimano pedals -- usually a pair of cleats comes with
    the pedals. SPD cleats last a long time, replacements are
    $20 for Shimano, $10 for clones.

    The most useful combo is 2-sided pedals with light (minimal
    tread, but fully recessed cleat) mountain/touring shoes.

  13. (DLCRCF) said:

    I'm starting to get back into cycling and was thinking of
    getting new pedals. The ones that don't use toe straps.
    Could anyone give me some recommendations? I don't need top
    of the line stuff. Also, do the shoe and the pedal have to
    be the same brand or are they interchangable?

    Most clipless pedals that are labelled as "mountain bike"
    pedals, regardless of what your bike or terrain is, are good
    starter pedals.

    Nashbar Special SPD pedals are something like $25 (see
    www.nashbar.com for those), and I like them fine. I also
    have Egg Beaters which I like, but which are much more
    expensive.

    You'll need any comfortable shoes, preferably with tread on
    the bottom, which hides the cleat, making it easy to walk.
    It's difficult to walk (up that tough hill, into the store
    for a snack, etc) on a cleat that's not recessed inside the
    tread. It will ruin your kitchen floor when you go to fill
    your water bottle, too. Either way, most clipless shoes are
    SPD compatible.

    If the pedals you buy don't SPD-pattern* cleats, you'll need
    to pay special attention to the shoes to make sure they're
    compatible with the same standard. I have and like SPD
    sandals, manufactured by Lake and Shimano.

    *Note: SPD is a bolt-pattern standard for cleats, which
    specifies which shoes they fit; SPD is also a specific type
    of cleat. SPD cleats work with all SPD shoes and pedals. Non-
    SPD cleats with the SPD bolt pattern (such as Egg Beaters)
    fit SPD shoes but not SPD pedals.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  14. In article <[email hidden]>,

    maxo said:

    He thinks some folks subliminally are more in tune with
    the road surface.

    I similarly believe hand tools become used to their owners.
    Somebody with a different 'touch' borrows them; they go into
    shock and they break.

    That's why I like to pack a good pump just for myself, and a
    'beater' pump to lend to riders with flats, whom I may
    encounter while riding around.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  15. Tom Keats said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    maxo said:

    He thinks some folks subliminally are more in tune with
    the road surface.

    I similarly believe hand tools become used to their owners.
    Somebody with a different 'touch' borrows them; they go
    into shock and they break.

    That's why I like to pack a good pump just for myself, and
    a 'beater' pump to lend to riders with flats, whom I may
    encounter while riding around.

    cheers, Tom


    That's damned generous of you, really uncommon actually.
    Remember tho... don't lend your chisels to anybody!
    Regards, Bernie

  16. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bernie said:

    don't lend your chisels to anybody!

    Of course not. They'll use 'em for screwdrivers or can
    openers.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden.
    I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  17. Wed, 7 Jul 2004 22:57:38 -0700, <[email hidden]>,

    (Tom Keats) said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Bernie <bmcilvan@mouse-

    potato.com said:

    don't lend your chisels to anybody!

    Of course not. They'll use 'em for screwdrivers or
    can openers.


    Tent pegs.
    --
    zk

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