I bought a floor pump for my road bike when I got it. I had a lot of problems with it, but one of the problems I had was it was very difficult to get the nozzle off of the presta valve. Every time I did remove it, I would smack my knuckles on either the spokes or the hub. I returned that pump and bought another. This one is much better for pumping, but when I tried to remove the nozzle, it pulled the presta valve right out of the tube.
What am I doing wrong? Could I be pushing the nozzle to hard onto the valve? How far to you have to push it on?
How tight should the threaded ring on the valve be against the wheel?
I bought a floor pump for my road bike when I got it. I had a lot of problems with it, but one of the problems I had was it was very difficult to get the nozzle off of the presta valve. Every time I did remove it, I would smack my knuckles on either the spokes or the hub. I returned that pump and bought another. This one is much better for pumping, but when I tried to remove the nozzle, it pulled the presta valve right out of the tube.
What am I doing wrong? Could I be pushing the nozzle to hard onto the valve? How far to you have to push it on?
How tight should the threaded ring on the valve be against the wheel?
Mine is a B to get off also, a few times of pulling it off tears the valve from tube. only thing i found works is to buy the smooth none threaded presta valve tubes. and just tighten that nut so it's snug(after you pump up). i hope there is other suggestions because i can't always find the smooth none threaded valve tubes.
Must be a Silca pump. I have one and all I can do is spray some silicon to the rubber grommet so I will insert and remove fm the valve easier. I use extra long valve tubes so I can grip the valve when removing the pump head. And yes, I sometimes rip the tube at the base of the valve.
I was shown a tecnique by my first LBS, push on hard, use the lock lever, inflate tyre to required pressure, release lock lever, then, both palms on the tyre and using both thums, one each side of the wheel, apply firm pressure to the head of the pump, the thing will break away cleanly from the residual presssure in the hose and the fingers are safely over the tyre. I have bladed spokes on one of my bikes and no lost skin so far.
I was shown a tecnique by my first LBS, push on hard, use the lock lever, inflate tyre to required pressure, release lock lever, then, both palms on the tyre and using both thums, one each side of the wheel, apply firm pressure to the head of the pump, the thing will break away cleanly from the residual presssure in the hose and the fingers are safely over the tyre. I have bladed spokes on one of my bikes and no lost skin so far.
Thanks. I give that a try.
Sorry I posted this in the wrong forum. I meant to post it in the equipment forum.
I bought a floor pump for my road bike when I got it. I had a lot of problems with it, but one of the problems I had was it was very difficult to get the nozzle off of the presta valve. Every time I did remove it, I would smack my knuckles on either the spokes or the hub. I returned that pump and bought another. This one is much better for pumping, but when I tried to remove the nozzle, it pulled the presta valve right out of the tube.
What am I doing wrong? Could I be pushing the nozzle to hard onto the valve? How far to you have to push it on?
How tight should the threaded ring on the valve be against the wheel?
gclark8 seems to have the simply perfect technique. The threaded ring on the valve should be screwed on till it touches the rim a little tight or loose does not matter.Its purpose is to hold the valve in place and is very helpfull for inflating when the tyre is completely deflated. There are new pumps in the market they have ends whic adapt automatically to schrader and presta!!!!!!! no need to change grommet positions.and also easy to detach from valve.
I have had a zefal pump for about 15 years and never had a problem, maybe the locking device on the pump has something to do with it. Having said that, I also take care to remove the pump like george(?) described.
I don't use the valve stem ring thingies, in fact, I don't know anyone who does. I wrap a little strip of gaffer around the base of the stem before putting the tube in. I guess using a locking nut who also work. I've never had a stem failure since doing this.
I also have a Silca floor pump, and a little bit of grunt is required to get the nozzle off. This is pretty obvious, but I just get over the top of it and push down with both thumbs. I used to think I had to unscrew the nozzle-top to apply and remove :p D'OH!!
I think the base on the Silcas might be a little fragile. I've busted one already, just under the pump shaft which is a pretty thin bit of alu.
I used a mate's floor pump the other day (can't remember the brand) which had a really wide shaft, and it was AWESOME!! Each stroke seemed to give me about 30psi! 😄
I don't use the valve stem ring thingies, in fact, I don't know anyone who does. I wrap a little strip of gaffer around the base of the stem before putting the tube in. I guess using a locking nut who also work. I've never had a stem failure since doing this. vmartin.bigpondhosting.comvalve.jpgOpen ↗
I also have a Silca floor pump, and a little bit of grunt is required to get the nozzle off. This is pretty obvious, but I just get over the top of it and push down with both thumbs. I used to think I had to unscrew the nozzle-top to apply and remove :p D'OH!!
I think the base on the Silcas might be a little fragile. I've busted one already, just under the pump shaft which is a pretty thin bit of alu.
I used a mate's floor pump the other day (can't remember the brand) which had a really wide shaft, and it was AWESOME!! Each stroke seemed to give me about 30psi! 😄
The problem with the lockring and the palms/thumb technique is that it does not address the problem of valve stem base failure. If you have to pull the nozzle out of the valve with brute force, it puts a lot of strain at the base of the valve stem. It wedges the tube against the sharp edges of the rim hole for the valve stem causing an eventual unrepairable leak. The lock ring will not prevent that either unless you thread the lockring into the base of the valve stem before installing the tube in the wheel...(not recommended!!). Silca needs to design a smart nozzle that it will release the hold prior to removing. I've learned to install the nozzle just the necessary to prevent nozzle leaks and I can still remove it with a smaller amount of brute force. Silicon spray does help a lot. The idea of the gaffer(What's a gaffer? Electrical tape?) seems a good idea to protect the tube, but it seems like too much work and it just treating the symptoms, not the disease.
The idea of the gaffer(What's a gaffer? Electrical tape?) seems a good idea to protect the tube, but it seems like too much work and it just treating the symptoms, not the disease.
too much work???!!! It takes about 10 seconds to wrap some cloth tape around the base of the stem.
I have had a Silca floor pump for a while and at the beginning i ripped the valve out of a couple of tubes and also lost pleanty of skin on the cassette.
My solution was a pit of lube - either a bit of saliva, or vasoline on the valve and this helped greatly. Also - if you go to the longer stemmed tubes with the smooth stem. The threaded vavles are too much problem with the type of pump heasd attachment.
I have had a zefal pump for about 15 years and never had a problem, maybe the locking device on the pump has something to do with it. Having said that, I also take care to remove the pump like george(?) described.
My Zefal Switch Pump often retains the presta valve.
I was shown a tecnique by my first LBS, push on hard, use the lock lever, inflate tyre to required pressure, release lock lever, then, both palms on the tyre and using both thums, one each side of the wheel, apply firm pressure to the head of the pump, the thing will break away cleanly from the residual presssure in the hose and the fingers are safely over the tyre. I have bladed spokes on one of my bikes and no lost skin so far.
Sometimes they still grab the valve with that technique.
If handy, I try and hold the valve with pliers pushing away from the pumphead toward the rim while pulling on the other hand the pump head.
If no pliers handy, I hold the valve securely between the thumb and the next two fingers, and roll pry the head off slowly with the thumb(s).
Sometimes they still grab the valve with that technique.
If handy, I try and hold the valve with pliers pushing away from the pumphead toward the rim while pulling on the other hand the pump head.
If no pliers handy, I hold the valve securely between the thumb and the next two fingers, and roll pry the head off slowly with the thumb(s).
Sorry meb, for readers in the Northern Hemisphere, you may need to turn the bike upside down... 🙂
Footnote: I just fitted a Michelin Race Tube (650) to one of my wheels, it has no thread on the valve shaft. The break away was even cleaner and easier with this tube.
I have a Silca etal barrel job but I have recently been impressed by the Cyclaire pump
Its very clever and it does work well. Not had any problems with valve damage so far but I can see that care does need to be exercised, just like with any other pump.
I replaced my tube and pumped it up. When removing the nozzle, I held the valve with one hand, and used my thumb with the other hand to remove the nozzle. It took a bit of effort, but it came off cleanly. Then I pumped up the front, and while using the same technique, tore the valve out of the tube again. Of course, that means I cannot ride again because I don't have an extra (I have a spare, but if I use it, then I have no spare for my ride), until I run out and pick up another tube.
This will happen with cheap tubes. Michelin and Conti tubes are reinforced around the valve. Use both thums to remove the pump head, an even pressure both sides. The air pressue does the work. Are you inflating to a high enough pressure?
