Profiles...Worth the $$$?

musketman said:

145mm are the shortest u can buy

thats what they say on uni.com, but they are an in fact and do measure
out to 150mm.

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I've been riding profiles for over 2 years, with almost no troubles.
When they creak, take them apart and slather them in anti-sieze and
they generally stop for a few months, but I do ride in a lot of snow
and a fair bit of rain. The only real wear I have noticed is that the
cranks have a bit of slop to them even when tightened, but my spacers
are in bad need of replacing if that makes a difference.

I have a friend who has set of KH cranks that won't stop creaking, even
with anti sieze.

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forget_your_life said:

thats what they say on uni.com, but they are an in fact and do measure
out to 150mm.

did you factor in the q-factor? 🙄

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giraffe said:

did you factor in the q-factor? 🙄

with the crank in your hand off the uni and the measuring tape in the
other hand, there is no Q-factor..just a crank thats one hundred and
fifty millimeters long.

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forget_your_life said:

with the crank in your hand off the uni and the measuring tape in the
other hand, there is no Q-factor..just a crank thats one hundred and
fifty millimeters long.

did you measure along the crank?

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evil-nick said:

Trials biker after seeing me jump off a concrete barrier: "How do you
keep from squashing your nuts!?"
Me: "I use those for cushioning!"

:p
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giraffe said:

did you measure along the crank?

yes, then after that. I then hung a plum bob to estimate the drag slop
stop mouth valve of giraffes.

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But surely since it's angled out you'd need to measure in a straight
line not along the crank?

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evil-nick said:

Trials biker after seeing me jump off a concrete barrier: "How do you
keep from squashing your nuts!?"
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forget_your_life said:

yes, then after that. I then hung a plum bob to estimate the drag slop
stop mouth valve of giraffes.

hahaha

I have 2 sets ("145" on the trials and 165 on the muni). Niether have
had any problems. I don't do stupid-big drops but I'll mix in a nice 5
footer here and there. I'm a pretty big guy (6'2'' 220-240 not sure
about right this second) I would consider my technique completely
flawless.

Mine never creaked. I lubed the ones I got new (trials) up pretty good
out of the box. The ones I got from Mojoe (over 2 years ago, don't know
how old they really are) never creaked and were in good order when he
sent them.

A couple of friends of mine who ride profile had creaking cranks. I
lubed them up for them and their cranks didn't creak for months. Maybe
your issue is not with the crank interface but the keyway interface,
Tom.

Trials Uni, if you have old style KH cranks and don't mind them then
don't bother getting the profiles until you really think you need them.
They are very strong cranks. I rode them on my trials before I went to
profile (which I only did because it cost me $100 or so to upgrade)
were straight after 6 months or so (I forget) of trials riding.
Maestro8 owns them now and I think they are still good. They are strong
cranks.

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trials_uni said:

Ok first off. I want this thread to have valid opinions only...If you
havent ridden Profiles for at least 6 months solid then dont bother
replying because theres no way you ve had a chacne to really test
them.

Ok now for the real questions. I really want to get a Profile wheelset
and use my Old KH setup as a backup wheel. So ive got a few questions a
need to ask.

1. Ive heard that Profiles are prone to creaking and sqealing under
even minimal use. Is there any truth to the rumour?

2. I kno that they must be cleaned and maintained regularly. How often
should i do it and what is involved?

3. Have you ever bent or twisted your Hub/cranks? If so how did you do
it?

4. Is it really worth the $560 for a new wheelset for a quickly
advancing Trials rider? Or is it going to be a purchase i will quickly
regret?

Thanks for your time.

-Phil.

1. Mine squeak a bit off and on. At one point it got bad enough that i
took them off and put antiseize on them. Honestly though, my friends
abused KH 05 squeaks alot too. Right now neither of us are squeaking.

Just ride with trials bikers and you'll still be the quiet one no
matter what!

2. I dont maintain mine regularly. I usually wait till i have the whole
wheel apart to yoink the cranks and lub up the splines. That doesnt
happen too often. No Problem.

3. I snapped a crank. It wasnt on that big a drop but it was a spastic
landing. I think it was more a result of repeated abuse and then the
spastic drop was the last straw. The crank was 2 or 3 years old when i
snapped it. Not a bad lifetime. And guess what, theyre under waranty!
They just send you a new one. http://tinyurl.com/beq7o

4. No regrets. You'll know youre riding a bomber wheelset and it doesnt
get much better. You dont have to worry about breaking stuff 'cause
most of it's under warranty. The new KH's are great but had i had one,
I'd be down a crank right now. So the profiles just paid for
themselves.

Tom mentioned keyway slop. It is an issue, but not a big onefor me. Ive
had a little slop for a while. I dont notice it. It hasnt gotten worse
in a long time. My old first gen KH hub had Big slop but perhaps thats
comparing apples and oranges.

My profile wheelset is going on 5 years old. I don't see changing it
anytime soon.

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vivalargo said:

An interesting note is that, like many of us, I broke in on an old Steel
KH 24. The crank arms had no Q factor and I never heard of any of them
ever bending or breaking. The Q factor (on Profiles and the newer KH's)
places an oblique torque on the weld at the axle, which lamost
certainly causes crank breakage. But once you go Q there's no going
back.

JL

I broke a first gen KH crank and jake bent one on those wicked trails
in SB. i love those trails! 🙂

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vivalargo said:

An interesting note is that, like many of us, I broke in on an old Steel
KH 24. The crank arms had no Q factor and I never heard of any of them
ever bending or breaking. The Q factor (on Profiles and the newer KH's)
places an oblique torque on the weld at the axle, which lamost
certainly causes crank breakage. But once you go Q there's no going
back.

JL

umm, there are NO cranks with 0 Q factor, it is possible, but they
would be pointless because they would kill the ankles. and besides, Q
factor is the distance between pedals, cranks can add to that, but
cannot have a Q factor themselves

why does everyone use Q factor differently, its annoying, in fact Q
factor is really the distance between the apex of the seat and the
point of highest torque on the cranks

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TheObieOne3226 said:

A couple of friends of mine who ride profile had creaking cranks. I
lubed them up for them and their cranks didn't creak for months. Maybe
your issue is not with the crank interface but the keyway interface,
Tom.

That's possible; I haven't ridden it much since I epoxied it. But it
does improve when I take the thing apart and apply anti-seize; it just
goes back to creaking again, usually by the end of the first ride.
(That still could be the keyway, as the keyway will move less with the
crank bolts freshly tightened).

It also may be related to weight; fully geared, I'm pushing 200 pounds;
someone who weighs less will put less stress on the cranks.

I think the Profiles are fine, I just don't see how they're worth $175
more than a Qu-Ax hub/crank set. When Profile was the only game in
town, you had to pay the premium, but now there are other viable
options.

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I have been riding on the profile hub for almost three years,I got three
of them now, they are worth every penny you pay for them they don't
break, they creak a little when they are new

I have broken two cranks, and they were replaced, it takes about a
month to get a new one, buy an extra set if you don't want to wait

Hans

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Sorry for asking, but what is "keyway slop"????

PM

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john_childs

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Mmmmm... Sexy welds.

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Probailer2 said:

Sorry for asking, but what is "keyway slop"????

PM

On Profile and some other hubs, the steel axle is press-fit into the
aluminum hub shell; the keyway is the slot which keeps the axle from
rotating inside the hub. Over time, especially on older models (some
report the newer ones are better), the press-fit breaks, which allows
the axle to freely slide back and forth within the hub. The cranks
keep the axle from sliding all the way out, but when riding you can
feel the slop whenever there is a sideways force on the hub.

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tholub said:

On Profile and some other hubs, the steel axle is press-fit into the
aluminum hub shell; the keyway is the slot which keeps the axle from
rotating inside the hub. Over time, especially on older models (some
report the newer ones are better), the press-fit breaks, which allows
the axle to freely slide back and forth within the hub. The cranks
keep the axle from sliding all the way out, but when riding you can
feel the slop whenever there is a sideways force on the hub.

Oh now I get it.
Thanks for explaning it.

PM

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john_childs

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Mmmmm... Sexy welds.

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