Problem getting Coker rim trued...

Try telling them they can clamp your frame in the repair stand and then
use the frame as a truing stand.

Never happened to me, I don't own a coker, and if I did, I would true
it.

Try riding aggressivley on the airfoil. If I was you, I would ride the
AF exclusively to get used to it and sell the steel cheap to get someone
interested in cokers.

--
TheObieOne3226 - SWAT

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mental

*disclaimer: the above message was not intended to offend anyone. if you
are offended i can take no responsibility for my actions because i don't
feel like it. also you are reading an internet newsgroup where not
everyone will share your same views and beliefs, be able to take
criticism and post/read threads at your own risk.*
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TheObieOne3226 said:

Try telling them they can clamp your frame in the repair stand and then
use the frame as a truing stand.

What he said. The truing stands I am familiar with do not accept
unicycle wheels because the hubs are different from bicycle hubs.
They should still be able to do a good job for you, provided the rim
isn't trashed.

I haven't worked on 36" wheels, but I know they sound different (lower
tone when plucked) than smaller wheels at the same tension. It might
be a good idea to remind them to use a tensiometer.

Ken

Your frame is an excellent truing stand. Using cable ties or some other
simple devices as indicators you can true up a wheel with a reasonable
amount of precision. But first think about what has happened.

Ideally, before your wheel was built, you could have laid the rim on a
flat floor and it would lay flat...it would not show any warping. After
what you (and myself as well as many others) have done to this type of
wheel, if you unlaced it now and laid it on the floor it would be
warped. That means that to make it straight you will have to apply some
amount of uneven spoke tension. Maybe alot of uneven spoke tension.

On my wheel, I used a piece of wire attached to one of the frame legs as
an indicator and found out where it was warped using the rim (not the
tire) as the reference. I got it straight (flat in one plane) and
centered (it didn't change radial position with rotation) by picking
which spokes to tighten or loosen. Then I centered the wheel in the
frame by tightening all the spokes on the required side because my
spokes seemed too loose.

I retrued the wheel after riding it about 40 miles. It is nicely trued
and I rode 23 miles on the Chilly Hilly bike ride on Bainbridge Island
and have commuted another 100 miles or so. But I don't trust it at all
any more because the spoke tension is obviously and noticably uneven.
Also, I have the stock hub which is really too narrow for this wheel. If
the spokes are too tight or too loose it could taco just hitting a bump.
I have a wheelset on order with the wider hub. I hope you do the same.

--
harper - TANKED at GASWORKS

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

"My world view has come crashing down like a drunk clown on a giraffe,
riding through a cactus patch..." -evil-nick on "Entry of the
Gladiators"
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TheObieOne3226 said:

*Try telling them they can clamp your frame in the repair stand and
then use the frame as a truing stand.

Never happened to me, I don't own a coker, and if I did, I would true
it.

Try riding aggressivley on the airfoil. If I was you, I would ride the
AF exclusively to get used to it and sell the steel cheap to get
someone interested in cokers. *

One mechanic that I'm friendly with did true it for me in the repair
stand... so I guess I can try and go back there when he is around.

I have been riding aggressively on my airfoil (almost exclusively) and I
have gotten a lot more used to it... but I'll never sell my steel rim
Coker - I'm actually looking to buy other people's steel rims (cheap 😄)
when they upgrade to an Airfoil.

Different rims have there pro's and con's and even if I'm the only Coker
rider in the universe to feel this way... I prefer my heavier, more
flexible steel rim Coker over the Airfoil for certain types of riding
situations... even if I can do the same maneuver just as well on the
Airfoil.

Physics is physics... and from my (extremely limited) knowledge of the
subject: greater weight = greater flywheel effect... which is something
that I feel is a big advantage for certain types of riding.

--
HardcoreCokerRider - Skateparks, MTB & Urban Insanity
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harper said:

*Your frame is an excellent truing stand. Using cable ties or some
other simple devices as indicators you can true up a wheel with a
reasonable amount of precision. But first think about what has
happened.

Ideally, before your wheel was built, you could have laid the rim on a
flat floor and it would lay flat...it would not show any warping.
After what you (and myself as well as many others) have done to this
type of wheel, if you unlaced it now and laid it on the floor it would
be warped. That means that to make it straight you will have to apply
some amount of uneven spoke tension. Maybe alot of uneven spoke
tension.

On my wheel, I used a piece of wire attached to one of the frame legs
as an indicator and found out where it was warped using the rim (not
the tire) as the reference. I got it straight (flat in one plane) and
centered (it didn't change radial position with rotation) by picking
which spokes to tighten or loosen. Then I centered the wheel in the
frame by tightening all the spokes on the required side because my
spokes seemed too loose.

I retrued the wheel after riding it about 40 miles. It is nicely trued
and I rode 23 miles on the Chilly Hilly bike ride on Bainbridge Island
and have commuted another 100 miles or so. But I don't trust it at all
any more because the spoke tension is obviously and noticably uneven.
Also, I have the stock hub which is really too narrow for this wheel.
If the spokes are too tight or too loose it could taco just hitting a
bump. I have a wheelset on order with the wider hub. I hope you do the
same. *

Thanks Harper... your knowledge and insight is much appreciated (as
always)! Do you have a steel rim wheelset on order or an Airfoil
wheelset? If steel, was your choice based solely on economic factors...
or was there some other reason you chose the steel rim? Also... which
wide hub are you getting - the 100mm (center flange to center flange
distance) hub or the 71mm (center flange to center flange distance) one?

--
HardcoreCokerRider - Skateparks, MTB & Urban Insanity
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"harper" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

..>

Quoted message said:

I retrued the wheel after riding it about 40 miles. It is nicely trued
and I rode 23 miles on the Chilly Hilly bike ride on Bainbridge Island
and have commuted another 100 miles or so. But I don't trust it at all
any more because the spoke tension is obviously and noticably uneven.
Also, I have the stock hub which is really too narrow for this wheel. If
the spokes are too tight or too loose it could taco just hitting a bump.
I have a wheelset on order with the wider hub. I hope you do the same.

Thanks Harper, I had, purely from the Physics of it guessed that a wider
hub would probably be advisable for a coker, and that a retrued bent wheel
would probably have an uneven spoke tension. It is good to hear from an
expert that this is in fact correct. Nicely put, and in such a way that it
is meaningful to us all.
The video shown elsewhere in this thread is quite an eye opener.

Cheers Nao

I ordered an Airfoil rim with the 100mm hub.

--
harper - TANKED at GASWORKS

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

"My world view has come crashing down like a drunk clown on a giraffe,
riding through a cactus patch..." -evil-nick on "Entry of the
Gladiators"
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