I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it? Thanks.
I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it?
You probably have one of two problems...
1) there is friction where the rear derailleur shifter cable (the one on the right) passes under the bottom bracket (crank axle). Clean and lubricate.
2) your frame is flexible enough to change its geometry when you're applying maximum power going up a hill. This you can live with, or you can replace the bike/frame.
I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it?
You probably have one of two problems...
1) there is friction where the rear derailleur shifter cable (the one on the right) passes under the bottom bracket (crank axle). Clean and lubricate.
2) your frame is flexible enough to change its geometry when you're applying maximum power going up a hill. This you can live with, or you can replace the bike/frame.
Definition: Cross-chaining is using gears that put your chain at an extreme angle causing it to "tick" your derailleur as you ride. The gear combinations that cause this are inside front with far outside rear or outside front with far inside rear.
I found this definition on the internet. Before the bike changes gears on its own abruptly, I do here the ticking sound. How do I go about changing this? I bought this bike used from my uncle who moved to California and he has done a lot of triathlons and what not.
I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it? Thanks.
Try adjusting the cable tension to your rear derailleur. Tighten it a bit by turning the "barrel adjuster" on the der a half-turn or so (counter-clockwise) and see if it helps. (You should probably also lube the cable like Mark suggested -- at least make sure it's moving freely in the housings and under the BB.)
If you have a friend who knows bikes, ask him (or her) to take a look at it; or take it to a shop for a quick tuneup. (Might even be free if it's literally just an adjustment.)
I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it?
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You probably have one of two problems...
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...
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2) your frame is flexible enough to change its geometry when you're applying maximum power going up a hill. This you can live with, or you can replace the bike/frame.
If frame flex is causing auto-shift under pedaling loads, reinstall the derailer cable with housing along its entire length, no un-housed cable between shifter and derailer.
Definition: Cross-chaining is using gears that put your chain at an extreme angle causing it to "tick" your derailleur as you ride. The gear combinations that cause this are inside front with far outside rear or outside front with far inside rear.
I found this definition on the internet. Before the bike changes gears on its own abruptly, I do here the ticking sound. How do I go about changing this? I bought this bike used from my uncle who moved to California and he has done a lot of triathlons and what not.
The only thing you can do is not use those gear combinations. The angle of the chain is so great that it will wear down your cogs prematurely as well as the shifting problems.
Definition: Cross-chaining is using gears that put your chain at an extreme angle causing it to "tick" your derailleur as you ride. The gear combinations that cause this are inside front with far outside rear or outside front with far inside rear.
I found this definition on the internet. Before the bike changes gears on its own abruptly, I do here the ticking sound. How do I go about changing this? I bought this bike used from my uncle who moved to California and he has done a lot of triathlons and what not.
The only thing you can do is not use those gear combinations. The angle of the chain is so great that it will wear down your cogs prematurely as well as the shifting problems.
Pat in TX
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Can I take it to a bike shop and have it regeared to stop this "cross-chaining"?
Definition: Cross-chaining is using gears that put your chain at an extreme angle causing it to "tick" your derailleur as you ride. The gear combinations that cause this are inside front with far outside rear or outside front with far inside rear.
I found this definition on the internet. Before the bike changes gears on its own abruptly, I do here the ticking sound. How do I go about changing this? I bought this bike used from my uncle who moved to California and he has done a lot of triathlons and what not.
The only thing you can do is not use those gear combinations. The angle of the chain is so great that it will wear down your cogs prematurely as well as the shifting problems.
Pat in TX
Can I take it to a bike shop and have it regeared to stop this "cross-chaining"?
The problem is not related to a specific gearing setup, it is related to the chain being at an extreme angle between the front and rear. Riding with the chain on the small chain wheel and the small cog on the cluster, or on the large chain wheel and the large cog, generates such an angle. There is no way to change gearing that will eliminate the problem (unless the cluster is reduced to only 3-4 cogs, thus greatly reducing your gearing choices).
-- Larry D. Farrell, Ph.D. Professor of Microbiology Idaho State University
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it? Thanks.
-Darren
Every time I had seen this it has been that the cable is a bit loose.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I have a problem with my bike. When I am putting a lot of pressure on it (going up a hill) the bike will sometimes change a gear abruptly and jolt the bike. It will sometimes change it back and forth abruptly while going up a hill making it tough. I forget how many gears it has as I haven't ridden it in a while, but I think it is a 21 speed. What could be causing this problem and how would I go about fixing it? Thanks.
-Darren
Every time I had seen this it has been that the cable is a bit loose.
Just called the bike shop and they stated the same (cable). He said a tune up ($35) will take care of that, unless I need a new chain as well. Thanks for everyone's insight and I'll let you know how it went in a couple of days. He will be able to look at it in 2 or 3 days.
Every time I had seen this it has been that the cable is a bit loose.
Remember those old friction shift levers prevalent on 70's bikes? Mine were held in place with a black plastic thumbnut. I think I remember having a similar problem, and it was just a matter of tightening that nut.
OP, go see your new friends at a bike shop. They'll help you out.
"Larry Farrell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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Can I take it to a bike shop and have it regeared to stop this "cross-chaining"?
The problem is not related to a specific gearing setup, it is related to the chain being at an extreme angle between the front and rear. Riding with the chain on the small chain wheel and the small cog on the cluster, or on the large chain wheel and the large cog, generates such an angle. There is no way to change gearing that will eliminate the problem (unless the cluster is reduced to only 3-4 cogs, thus greatly reducing your gearing choices).
As Larry said, cross-chaining isn't something to be fixed. It's just a characteristic of bicycles -- and probably unrelated to the original poster's real problem.
In addition to what Mark Hickey mentioned, it could also be that the derailleur spring doesn't have enough spring in it, so that there is less chain wrapped around the rear gear wheels than desirable. This can sometimes be adjusted, and sometimes the derailleur may just need a good cleaning -- or, you may need a new rear derailleur, which isn't the end of the world.
Every time I had seen this it has been that the cable is a bit loose.
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Just called the bike shop and they stated the same (cable). He said a tune up ($35) will take care of that, unless I need a new chain as well. Thanks for everyone's insight and I'll let you know how it went in a couple of days. He will be able to look at it in 2 or 3 days.
Try increasing the cable tension yourself first. Turn the little barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur about a half turn /counter/ clockwise. Test ride. Fixed? You just saved $35.00.