preparing a new chain for use

davek said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and
I'm wondering what approach to take with lubrication in
regard to preparing it for use. It currently feels very
sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is that they
use in the factory.

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the
instructions say the chain should be thoroughly degreased
before first application, so I'm thinking I should dunk
the chain in solvent to degrease it, let it dry and then
apply the White Lightning.

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease?
Is this stuff likely to be better than White Lightning
for keeping my chain clean and lubed? But even if I leave
the factory grease, I'm guessing I should at very least
wipe off excess grease from the outer surface of the
chain. Right?

No work necessary. Chains are pre-lubricated with a
good lubricant. When it gets dirty you can clean and
relube as usual.

Zog The Undeniable:

Quoted message said:

Chains are pre-lubricated with a good lubricant.

I was wondering if that was the case, but I have no idea
what type of grease they use in the factory. Could be any
old [censored] as far as I know (which still may or may not be
better than White Lightning...).

Thanks,

d.

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and
I'm wondering what approach to take with lubrication in
regard to preparing it for use. It currently feels very
sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is that they
use in the factory.

Chain grease?

Quoted message said:

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the
instructions say the chain should be thoroughly degreased
before first application, so I'm thinking I should dunk
the chain in solvent to degrease it, let it dry and then
apply the White Lightning.

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

Quoted message said:

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease?

Best plan.

Quoted message said:

Is this stuff likely to be better than White Lightning for
keeping my chain clean and lubed?

Yes, anyhting that isn't actually water is better than WL.

Quoted message said:

But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing I
should at very least wipe off excess grease from the outer
surface of the chain. Right?

It doesn't do any lubrication on the outside, and too much
attracts dirt, which is bad. But don't take off so much
that the chain itself is exposed to (humid) air. Chains are
made from very non-stainless steels. Leave on enough to
stop the rust.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

Mark South said:

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

I don't know about that. Other people on here claim good
experience with White Lightning. If I recall correctly Guy
uses it on his 'bent chain.
--
Michael MacClancy Random putdown - "He is not only dull
himself, he is the cause of dullness in others." -Samuel
Johnson www.macclancy.demon.co.uk www.macclancy.co.uk

Mark South said:

Yes, anyhting that isn't actually water is better than WL.

Mind you, wet chains don't squeak until they are dry.

"Michael MacClancy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mark South said:

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

I don't know about that. Other people on here claim good
experience with White Lightning. If I recall correctly Guy
uses it on his 'bent chain.

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not
collect dirt. It does stop the chain rusting. It's just
not much in the way of lubrication, especially compared to
grease and oil.

It appears to have been formulated originally as a storage
lubricant (ie, protective coating). It is heavily marketed
in other sectors as such.

If it's the best thing for chains, then those mega-multi-
quid 10-speed chains should come soaked in WL, but they are
packaged in grease as well.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

What about WD40? Would that lubricate? KM

"Mark South" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and
I'm wondering

what

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

approach to take with lubrication in regard to preparing
it for use. It currently feels very sticky to the touch
from whatever the grease is

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

they use in the factory.

Chain grease?

Quoted message said:

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the
instructions say

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

chain should be thoroughly degreased before first
application, so I'm thinking I should dunk the chain in
solvent to degrease it, let it dry

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

then apply the White Lightning.

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

Quoted message said:

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory
grease?

Best plan.

Quoted message said:

Is this stuff likely to be better than White Lightning
for keeping my chain clean and lubed?

Yes, anyhting that isn't actually water is better than WL.

Quoted message said:

But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing I
should at very least wipe off excess grease from the
outer surface of the chain. Right?

It doesn't do any lubrication on the outside, and too much
attracts dirt,

which

Quoted message said:

is bad. But don't take off so much that the chain itself
is exposed to

(humid)

Quoted message said:

air. Chains are made from very non-stainless steels. Leave
on enough to

stop

Quoted message said:

the rust.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

Mark South:

Quoted message said:

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not
collect dirt. It

does stop

Quoted message said:

the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of
lubrication,

especially

Quoted message said:

compared to grease and oil.

I get on OK with White Lightning - my chain isn't rusty and
it's reasonably clean. It may be relatively expensive
compared to other lubes, but one six quid bottle seems to go
quite a long way. To be honest, I wouldn't know one way or
the other if it was any good as a lubricant. How much
difference does its lack of lubricative(?) qualities make to
actual chain performance? Is it making me go slower?

Quoted message said:

It appears to have been formulated originally as a storage
lubricant (ie, protective coating). It is heavily marketed
in other sectors as such.

That's interesting. I didn't know that. Makes sense though.

Thanks for your comments.

d.

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mark South:

Quoted message said:

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not
collect dirt. It

does stop

Quoted message said:

the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of
lubrication,

especially

Quoted message said:

compared to grease and oil.

I get on OK with White Lightning - my chain isn't rusty
and it's reasonably clean. It may be relatively expensive
compared to other lubes, but one six quid bottle seems to
go quite a long way. To be honest, I wouldn't know one way
or the other if it was any good as a lubricant. How much
difference does its lack of lubricative(?) qualities make
to actual chain performance? Is it making me go slower?

Six quid! Six quid will buy you practically a lifetime
supply of heavyweight machine oil to dribble on your chains.

As I said, White Lightning (and WD40) is not much in the
way of lubrication. I certainly wouldn't flush the grease
out of a new chain to put in WL. At least wait till the
chain needs cleaning.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It appears to have been formulated originally as a
storage lubricant (ie, protective coating). It is
heavily marketed in other sectors as such.

That's interesting. I didn't know that. Makes sense
though.

IMO, it's suited far better to some of those applications,
where the bearing surface load is negligible and the slow
evaporation of the dried WL is a positive benefit.

Quoted message said:

Thanks for your comments.

You're welcome. Thanks for not flaming me.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:59:31 +0100, "Katanga-Man" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

What about WD40? Would that lubricate? KM

For a short while. Although some people seem to get away
with uising it it's not really suitable for lubricating a
bike chain. And squirting it onto a new chain would simply
flush out the superb lubricant that's already in there.

New chains should be cut to length, connected up, and ridden
as they are. If you don't like the sticky coating in the
outside I'd suggest you could squirt a little degreaser onto
a rag. give it a wipe with that and smear on your personal
favourite protective coating. But leave the factory grease
inside the rollers alone. .
--
Dave...

Get a bicycle. You will not regret it. If you live. -
Mark Twain

in message <[email hidden]>, davek

(') said:

Mark South:

Quoted message said:

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not
collect dirt. It

does stop

Quoted message said:

the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of
lubrication,

especially

Quoted message said:

compared to grease and oil.

I get on OK with White Lightning - my chain isn't rusty
and it's reasonably clean. It may be relatively expensive
compared to other lubes, but one six quid bottle seems to
go quite a long way. To be honest, I wouldn't know one way
or the other if it was any good as a lubricant. How much
difference does its lack of lubricative(?) qualities make
to actual chain performance? Is it making me go slower?

My next door neighbour is an industrial fitter - spends his
life going around various large industrial plants doing
maintenance. He has large aerosol cans of, wait for it,
'chain grease', formulated for lubricating roller chains.
I'm planning to try one of these when my current can of
Finish Line Cross Country runs out.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke)
jasmine.org.uk~simonOpen ↗

... a mild, inoffensive
sadist...

in message <[email hidden]>, Katanga-Man

(') said:

What about WD40? Would that lubricate?

No. It cleans all existing lubricant off, and then
evaporates leaving a sticky residue. Keep it well away
from chains.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke)
jasmine.org.uk~simonOpen ↗

;; in faecibus sapiens rheum
propagabit

davek said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and
I'm wondering what approach to take with lubrication in
regard to preparing it for use. It currently feels very
sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is that they
use in the factory.

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the
instructions say the chain should be thoroughly degreased
before first application, so I'm thinking I should dunk
the chain in solvent to degrease it, let it dry and then
apply the White Lightning.

That would be sensible if you if you want to use the WL, but
the factory stuff of the thick & sticky variety lubricates
and lasts well. In any case, it's best to clean thoroughly
before relubing (with whatever lube).

Quoted message said:

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease?
Is this stuff likely to be better than White Lightning for
keeping my chain clean and lubed?

No and yes, respectively.

Quoted message said:

But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing I
should at very least wipe off excess grease from the outer
surface of the chain. Right?

Good idea.

~PB

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and
I'm wondering

what

Quoted message said:

approach to take with lubrication in regard to preparing
it for use. It currently feels very sticky to the touch
from whatever the grease is that they use in the factory.

I've got 3 chains which I alternate so I've not bought a new
one for yonks. In the old days new chains came with a
coating of a substance (cosmolene?) designed to keep the
metal looking bright and shiny during storage and display
for sale. (see archive Google groups) But it was not a
lubricant and had to be removed upon installation and then
the chain was lubed with the product of your choice. Have
things changed?

davek said:

Zog The Undeniable:

Quoted message said:

Chains are pre-lubricated with a good lubricant.

I was wondering if that was the case, but I have no idea
what type of grease they use in the factory. Could be any
old [censored] as far as I know (which still may or may not be
better than White Lightning...).

The stuff is made by GLEITMO and SRAM claim it is "the
finest chain lubricant in the industry".

I don't know the exact product number, but this looks
likely:

infochems.comproductinfo.aspOpen ↗
t_id=58076

Zog The Undeniable:

Quoted message said:

The stuff is made by GLEITMO and SRAM claim it is "the
finest chain lubricant in the industry".

Cool. In that case, I shall leave my new SRAM chain
exactly as it is.

d.

Same topic different slant. I have been using car engine oil
on my chain for a while. It seems to lubricate well although
it is a bit messy. Thoughts?

Mark South said:

As I said, White Lightning...is not much in the way of
lubrication.

I dunno...the tramps at Swindon bus station seem to get
pretty well lubricated on it. Oh sorry, wrong White
Lightning ;-)

David Waters said:

Same topic different slant. I have been using car engine
oil on my chain for a while. It seems to lubricate well
although it is a bit messy. Thoughts?

You hit the nail on the head. It works but is like treacle.
Arguably EP hypoid gear oil is better for chains because,
as the name suggests, it's designed for extreme pressure
situations (like between a chain and a sprocket tooth).
Engine oil is for relatively large metal-metal rubbing
surfaces like piston skirts and cams - big end and main
bearings have even less chance of metal-metal contact,
being pressure-fed after start-up. Engine oil also has some
special features such as being able to burn relatively
cleanly, dissolve soot and withstand very high
temperatures, none of which are relevant to bike chains.
However, hypoid gear oil stinks and is equally treacly, so
I wouldn't use it.

There is a persistent urban myth that the rather
expensive Pedro's Synlube, quite popular among MTBers in
the 1990s, was in fact Mobil 1 engine oil in a smaller
and (even) more expensive package. I can't confirm or
deny this from Googling.

Me, I use 3-in-1 oil because it keeps the chain quiet and
isn't excessively sticky.