preparing a new chain for use

davek said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and I'm wondering what
approach to take with lubrication in regard to preparing it for use. It
currently feels very sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is that
they use in the factory.

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the instructions say the
chain should be thoroughly degreased before first application, so I'm
thinking I should dunk the chain in solvent to degrease it, let it dry and
then apply the White Lightning.

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease? Is this stuff
likely to be better than White Lightning for keeping my chain clean and
lubed? But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing I should at very
least wipe off excess grease from the outer surface of the chain. Right?

No work necessary. Chains are pre-lubricated with a good lubricant.
When it gets dirty you can clean and relube as usual.

Zog The Undeniable:

Quoted message said:

Chains are pre-lubricated with a good lubricant.

I was wondering if that was the case, but I have no idea what type of grease
they use in the factory. Could be any old [censored] as far as I know (which still
may or may not be better than White Lightning...).

Thanks,

d.

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and I'm wondering what
approach to take with lubrication in regard to preparing it for use. It
currently feels very sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is that
they use in the factory.

Chain grease?

Quoted message said:

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the instructions say the
chain should be thoroughly degreased before first application, so I'm
thinking I should dunk the chain in solvent to degrease it, let it dry and
then apply the White Lightning.

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

Quoted message said:

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease?

Best plan.

Quoted message said:

Is this stuff
likely to be better than White Lightning for keeping my chain clean and
lubed?

Yes, anyhting that isn't actually water is better than WL.

Quoted message said:

But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing I should at very
least wipe off excess grease from the outer surface of the chain. Right?

It doesn't do any lubrication on the outside, and too much attracts dirt, which
is bad. But don't take off so much that the chain itself is exposed to (humid)
air. Chains are made from very non-stainless steels. Leave on enough to stop
the rust.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

Mark South said:

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

I don't know about that. Other people on here claim good experience with
White Lightning. If I recall correctly Guy uses it on his 'bent chain.
--
Michael MacClancy
Random putdown - "He is not only dull himself, he is the cause of dullness
in others." -Samuel Johnson
www.macclancy.demon.co.uk
www.macclancy.co.uk

Mark South said:

Yes, anyhting that isn't actually water is better than WL.

Mind you, wet chains don't squeak until they are dry.

"Michael MacClancy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mark South said:

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

I don't know about that. Other people on here claim good experience with
White Lightning. If I recall correctly Guy uses it on his 'bent chain.

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not collect dirt. It does stop
the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of lubrication, especially
compared to grease and oil.

It appears to have been formulated originally as a storage lubricant (ie,
protective coating). It is heavily marketed in other sectors as such.

If it's the best thing for chains, then those mega-multi-quid 10-speed chains
should come soaked in WL, but they are packaged in grease as well.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

What about WD40? Would that lubricate?
KM

"Mark South" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and I'm wondering

what

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

approach to take with lubrication in regard to preparing it for use. It
currently feels very sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

they use in the factory.

Chain grease?

Quoted message said:

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the instructions say

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

chain should be thoroughly degreased before first application, so I'm
thinking I should dunk the chain in solvent to degrease it, let it dry

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

then apply the White Lightning.

White lightning has one virtue. It doesn't attract dirt.

It has one failing. It doesn't lubricate worth a damn.

It has one major extra downside. It is expensive.

Quoted message said:

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease?

Best plan.

Quoted message said:

Is this stuff
likely to be better than White Lightning for keeping my chain clean and
lubed?

Yes, anyhting that isn't actually water is better than WL.

Quoted message said:

But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing I should at very
least wipe off excess grease from the outer surface of the chain. Right?

It doesn't do any lubrication on the outside, and too much attracts dirt,

which

Quoted message said:

is bad. But don't take off so much that the chain itself is exposed to

(humid)

Quoted message said:

air. Chains are made from very non-stainless steels. Leave on enough to

stop

Quoted message said:

the rust.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

Mark South:

Quoted message said:

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not collect dirt. It

does stop

Quoted message said:

the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of lubrication,

especially

Quoted message said:

compared to grease and oil.

I get on OK with White Lightning - my chain isn't rusty and it's reasonably
clean. It may be relatively expensive compared to other lubes, but one six
quid bottle seems to go quite a long way. To be honest, I wouldn't know one
way or the other if it was any good as a lubricant. How much difference does
its lack of lubricative(?) qualities make to actual chain performance? Is it
making me go slower?

Quoted message said:

It appears to have been formulated originally as a storage lubricant (ie,
protective coating). It is heavily marketed in other sectors as such.

That's interesting. I didn't know that. Makes sense though.

Thanks for your comments.

d.

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mark South:

Quoted message said:

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not collect dirt. It

does stop

Quoted message said:

the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of lubrication,

especially

Quoted message said:

compared to grease and oil.

I get on OK with White Lightning - my chain isn't rusty and it's reasonably
clean. It may be relatively expensive compared to other lubes, but one six
quid bottle seems to go quite a long way. To be honest, I wouldn't know one
way or the other if it was any good as a lubricant. How much difference does
its lack of lubricative(?) qualities make to actual chain performance? Is it
making me go slower?

Six quid! Six quid will buy you practically a lifetime supply of heavyweight
machine oil to dribble on your chains.

As I said, White Lightning (and WD40) is not much in the way of lubrication. I
certainly wouldn't flush the grease out of a new chain to put in WL. At least
wait till the chain needs cleaning.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It appears to have been formulated originally as a storage lubricant (ie,
protective coating). It is heavily marketed in other sectors as such.

That's interesting. I didn't know that. Makes sense though.

IMO, it's suited far better to some of those applications, where the bearing
surface load is negligible and the slow evaporation of the dried WL is a
positive benefit.

Quoted message said:

Thanks for your comments.

You're welcome. Thanks for not flaming me.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:59:31 +0100, "Katanga-Man" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

What about WD40? Would that lubricate?
KM

For a short while. Although some people seem to get away with uising
it it's not really suitable for lubricating a bike chain. And
squirting it onto a new chain would simply flush out the superb
lubricant that's already in there.

New chains should be cut to length, connected up, and ridden as they
are. If you don't like the sticky coating in the outside I'd suggest
you could squirt a little degreaser onto a rag. give it a wipe with
that and smear on your personal favourite protective coating. But
leave the factory grease inside the rollers alone.
..
--
Dave...

Get a bicycle. You will not regret it. If you live. - Mark Twain

in message <[email hidden]>, davek

(') said:

Mark South:

Quoted message said:

Well, it is expensive, no denying that. It does not collect dirt.
It

does stop

Quoted message said:

the chain rusting. It's just not much in the way of lubrication,

especially

Quoted message said:

compared to grease and oil.

I get on OK with White Lightning - my chain isn't rusty and it's
reasonably clean. It may be relatively expensive compared to other
lubes, but one six quid bottle seems to go quite a long way. To be
honest, I wouldn't know one way or the other if it was any good as a
lubricant. How much difference does its lack of lubricative(?)
qualities make to actual chain performance? Is it making me go slower?

My next door neighbour is an industrial fitter - spends his life going
around various large industrial plants doing maintenance. He has large
aerosol cans of, wait for it, 'chain grease', formulated for
lubricating roller chains. I'm planning to try one of these when my
current can of Finish Line Cross Country runs out.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

... a mild, inoffensive sadist...

in message <[email hidden]>, Katanga-Man

(') said:

What about WD40? Would that lubricate?

No. It cleans all existing lubricant off, and then evaporates leaving a
sticky residue. Keep it well away from chains.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; in faecibus sapiens rheum propagabit

davek said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and I'm
wondering what approach to take with lubrication in regard to
preparing it for use. It currently feels very sticky to the touch
from whatever the grease is that they use in the factory.

My normal lubricant of choice is White Lightning - the instructions
say the chain should be thoroughly degreased before first
application, so I'm thinking I should dunk the chain in solvent to
degrease it, let it dry and then apply the White Lightning.

That would be sensible if you if you want to use the WL, but the factory
stuff of the thick & sticky variety lubricates and lasts well. In any case,
it's best to clean thoroughly before relubing (with whatever lube).

Quoted message said:

Or should I just leave it as is, with the factory grease? Is this
stuff likely to be better than White Lightning for keeping my chain
clean and lubed?

No and yes, respectively.

Quoted message said:

But even if I leave the factory grease, I'm guessing
I should at very least wipe off excess grease from the outer surface
of the chain. Right?

Good idea.

~PB

"davek" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've just got a new chain to go with my new cassette and I'm wondering

what

Quoted message said:

approach to take with lubrication in regard to preparing it for use. It
currently feels very sticky to the touch from whatever the grease is that
they use in the factory.

I've got 3 chains which I alternate so I've not bought a new one for
yonks. In the old days new chains came with a coating of a substance
(cosmolene?) designed to keep the metal looking bright and shiny
during storage and display for sale. (see archive Google groups)
But it was not a lubricant and had to be removed upon installation and
then the chain was lubed with the product of your choice.
Have things changed?

davek said:

Zog The Undeniable:

Quoted message said:

Chains are pre-lubricated with a good lubricant.

I was wondering if that was the case, but I have no idea what type of grease
they use in the factory. Could be any old [censored] as far as I know (which still
may or may not be better than White Lightning...).

The stuff is made by GLEITMO and SRAM claim it is "the finest chain
lubricant in the industry".

I don't know the exact product number, but this looks likely:

http://www.infochems.com/product/productinfo.asp?product_id=58076

Zog The Undeniable:

Quoted message said:

The stuff is made by GLEITMO and SRAM claim it is "the finest chain
lubricant in the industry".

Cool. In that case, I shall leave my new SRAM chain exactly as it is.

d.

Same topic different slant. I have been using car engine oil on my chain
for a while. It seems to lubricate well although it is a bit messy.
Thoughts?

Mark South said:

As I said, White Lightning...is not much in the way of lubrication.

I dunno...the tramps at Swindon bus station seem to get pretty well
lubricated on it. Oh sorry, wrong White Lightning ;-)

David Waters said:

Same topic different slant. I have been using car engine oil on my chain
for a while. It seems to lubricate well although it is a bit messy.
Thoughts?

You hit the nail on the head. It works but is like treacle. Arguably
EP hypoid gear oil is better for chains because, as the name suggests,
it's designed for extreme pressure situations (like between a chain and
a sprocket tooth). Engine oil is for relatively large metal-metal
rubbing surfaces like piston skirts and cams - big end and main bearings
have even less chance of metal-metal contact, being pressure-fed after
start-up. Engine oil also has some special features such as being able
to burn relatively cleanly, dissolve soot and withstand very high
temperatures, none of which are relevant to bike chains. However,
hypoid gear oil stinks and is equally treacly, so I wouldn't use it.

There is a persistent urban myth that the rather expensive Pedro's
Synlube, quite popular among MTBers in the 1990s, was in fact Mobil 1
engine oil in a smaller and (even) more expensive package. I can't
confirm or deny this from Googling.

Me, I use 3-in-1 oil because it keeps the chain quiet and isn't
excessively sticky.