I've been using my indoor trainer (Performance Real Time Axiom) when I can't ride outdoors. I typically average during an outdoor ride about 22-23 mph. On my indoor rides, I typically output an average of 400-430 watts (about 27-30 mph). Both distances are usually around 20 miles. I was thinking to get my speed up to 27-29 mph on the street, I would have to average probably 600-700 or so watts on the door trainer? When I'm brave, I will do 250-600-250-600-250-600 watt one minute intervals, then on the next set do 700 watts instead of 600 for a minute each which results in me almost passing out. What's holding me back on the street? Aero? Weight? Bike?
I'm 6'1" Weigh 204 lbs Ride a Giant TCR1 with a mix of 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace components Stock wheels (I have Hed 3 tri spoke carbon wheels coming)
I typically average during an outdoor ride about 22-23 mph. On my indoor rides, I typically output an average of 400-430 watts (about 27-30 mph). Both distances are usually around 20 miles.
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I'm 6'1" Weigh 204 lbs
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While wattage might be in question, this certainly isn't an indication of wattage, during group rides of a dozen or so riders, I'm always leading the hill climbs. I also enjoy dropping everyone during the climb too. I might not know my true output, but hill climbing is my specialty.
Pros have specialties. 204 pound Fred's who ride 20 miles/ride don't have specialties.
While wattage might be in question, this certainly isn't an indication of wattage, during group rides of a dozen or so riders, I'm always leading the hill climbs. I also enjoy dropping everyone during the climb too. I might not know my true output, but hill climbing is my specialty.
Pros have specialties. 204 pound Fred's who ride 20 miles/ride don't have specialties.
dumbass,
his power to weight ratio is only 6.4 W/kg. You need at least 7W/kg to win the Tour, he might as well quit.
Your indoor trainer's wattage calibration is unlikely to be accurate. Ditto its "mph."
Speed measurement is likely to be pretty good. Power measurement can be all over the map.
Though trainer speed alone is meaningless, it just tells you how fast the flywheel is rotating. It was unclear, but I meant that trainer speed is not well related to the road speed you get at the same effort. That is, if you ride at 250 W and 22 mph on a flat road, but riding your trainer at 250 W actual power, the trainer tells you that you're doing 27 mph and 500 W, both speed and power are misleading. Of course they're probably related because the trainer is deriving the fictitious power from the fictitious speed. Maybe Performance is calibrating the trainers high to keep the customers' hopes up. (Though I wouldn't be surprised if it's random from one trainer to another.)
I find that I can keep up a higher speed on the trainer if I'm descending, so I always prop up the trainer and rear wheel (on a special carbon fiber support to reduce vibration, naturally).
I find that I can keep up a higher speed on the trainer if I'm descending, so I always prop up the trainer and rear wheel
Don't forget to adjust your seat. When descending, it's like you've moved forward so your knees are no longer over the pedal spindle. If you're going to prop up the back of the bike be sure to move the seat back to get the proper position. We don't typically do this on the road because the descents are relatively short, we often coast, and it's impractical to adjust the seat all the time--but on a trainer at home where the position is going to be static and you're pedaling, it just makes sense.
I find that I can keep up a higher speed on the trainer if I'm descending, so I always prop up the trainer and rear wheel
Don't forget to adjust your seat. When descending, it's like you've moved forward so your knees are no longer over the pedal spindle. If you're going to prop up the back of the bike be sure to move the seat back to get the proper position. We don't typically do this on the road because the descents are relatively short, we often coast, and it's impractical to adjust the seat all the time--but on a trainer at home where the position is going to be static and you're pedaling, it just makes sense.
P.S. If you want to practice hill-climbing by propping up the front of the bike, be sure to move the seat the other way.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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I've been using my indoor trainer (Performance Real Time Axiom) when I can't ride outdoors. I typically average during an outdoor ride about 22-23 mph. On my indoor rides, I typically output an average of 400-430 watts (about 27-30 mph). Both distances are usually around 20 miles. I was thinking to get my speed up to 27-29 mph on the street, I would have to average probably 600-700 or so watts on the door trainer? When I'm brave, I will do 250-600-250-600-250-600 watt one minute intervals, then on the next set do 700 watts instead of 600 for a minute each which results in me almost passing out. What's holding me back on the street? Aero? Weight? Bike?
I'm 6'1" Weigh 204 lbs Ride a Giant TCR1 with a mix of 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace components Stock wheels (I have Hed 3 tri spoke carbon wheels coming)
Thanks
aero is the biggest factor, 2nd the flywheel on your trainer has built up an inertia which makes it easier to add and maintain whatever speed. the wattage meter on your trainer is most likely programmed to calculate a wattage according to the resistance level and spin of the roller, it is not factoring in either the aero nor inertia.
I find that I can keep up a higher speed on the trainer if I'm descending, so I always prop up the trainer and rear wheel
Don't forget to adjust your seat. When descending, it's like you've moved forward so your knees are no longer over the pedal spindle. If you're going to prop up the back of the bike be sure to move the seat back to get the proper position. We don't typically do this on the road because the descents are relatively short, we often coast, and it's impractical to adjust the seat all the time--but on a trainer at home where the position is going to be static and you're pedaling, it just makes sense.
P.S. If you want to practice hill-climbing by propping up the front of the bike, be sure to move the seat the other way.
If you glue gravel to the drums of your rollers you can practice riding over chip seal. If you glue broken glass then you can collect statistics on which tire is more likely to get a flat. If you glue a pieces of curb on the rollers you can practice bunny-hopping traffic control islands like Tchmil did that one time in Paris-Roubaix.
If you put two little drums on the back and a big drum on the front so that the bicycle is pointed up when the rollers are level and then shim the back of the rollers up so the bike is level, will you be simulating riding up, down, or level, and how should you adjust your seat?
If you put two little drums on the back and a big drum on the front so that the bicycle is pointed up when the rollers are level and then shim the back of the rollers up so the bike is level, will you be simulating riding up, down, or level, and how should you adjust your seat?
Laugh if you want, but when Moser set the hour record he was riding a bike with unequal-sized wheels: a large rear wheel and a small front. Some people think it was to get a larger development, but he could've gotten the same thing with a higher gear ratio; no, the only reasonable explanation is that he did it because it he understood it was like riding downhill *all the time*. That's why the UCI rules now insist that bikes have wheels of the same diameter.
Laugh if you want, but when Moser set the hour record he was riding a bike with unequal-sized wheels: a large rear wheel and a small front. Some people think it was to get a larger development, but he could've gotten the same thing with a higher gear ratio; no, the only reasonable explanation is that he did it because it he understood it was like riding downhill *all the time*.
So does it matter in what hemisphere you are riding? If you are south of the equator would you put the larger wheel in front?
Laugh if you want, but when Moser set the hour record he was riding a bike with unequal-sized wheels: a large rear wheel and a small front. Some people think it was to get a larger development, but he could've gotten the same thing with a higher gear ratio; no, the only reasonable explanation is that he did it because it he understood it was like riding downhill *all the time*.
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So does it matter in what hemisphere you are riding? If you are south of the equator would you put the larger wheel in front?
No. Remember, hour records are ridden in velodromes. The coriolis effect is the reason they ride counter-clockwise in the southern hemisphere.
Laugh if you want, but when Moser set the hour record he was riding a bike with unequal-sized wheels: a large rear wheel and a small front. Some people think it was to get a larger development, but he could've gotten the same thing with a higher gear ratio; no, the only reasonable explanation is that he did it because it he understood it was like riding downhill *all the time*.
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So does it matter in what hemisphere you are riding? If you are south of the equator would you put the larger wheel in front?
No. Remember, hour records are ridden in velodromes. The coriolis effect is the reason they ride counter-clockwise in the southern hemisphere.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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You probably can't really do 600 watts for a minute, and if you can maybe you should take up the kilometer.
600 W for 1 min actually isn't that impressive. My personal best for that duration is 581 W, and I'm a 150 lbs fattie master who would have a hard time getting under 1:20 in a kilo.
Go to Interbike with all of your data, and a resume. I am sure that moany of the 3rd Div teams would KILL to have a force like you on their squad! I hope that my director signs you so I don't have to race AGAINST you next year. Seriously.
"Andy Coggan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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You probably can't really do 600 watts for a minute, and if you can maybe you should take up the kilometer.
600 W for 1 min actually isn't that impressive. My personal best for that duration is 581 W, and I'm a 150 lbs fattie master who would have a hard time getting under 1:20 in a kilo.
You've probably done 1:20 for the first kilo of your 3K pursuit.
You probably can't really do 600 watts for a minute, and if you can maybe you should take up the kilometer.
600 W for 1 min actually isn't that impressive. My personal best for that duration is 581 W, and I'm a 150 lbs fattie master who would have a hard time getting under 1:20 in a kilo.
Okay, fair enough, but you're highly trained already. Imagine what the untrained OP will do once he starts doing more than 20 mile rides.
What's a good typical fattie master time in the kilo? I mean, not one done by Bostick or somebody like that. 1:20 sounds fairly fast, for the donut-eating contingent.
You probably can't really do 600 watts for a minute, and if you can maybe you should take up the kilometer.
600 W for 1 min actually isn't that impressive. My personal best for that duration is 581 W, and I'm a 150 lbs fattie master who would have a hard time getting under 1:20 in a kilo.
Okay, fair enough, but you're highly trained already. Imagine what the untrained OP will do once he starts doing more than 20 mile rides.
