post from a beginner

Phil said:

hello all i have caught the bug after being dragged across the ny moors by my buddies. now i need
some advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. what frame size? im 6' with 34" inside
leg. ive been advised by the shop to get a 20" but my buddy says 18".

It really depends on the bike. It's kind of like shoes, sometimes a size 10 from one manufacturer
will be the same as a size 8 from another. Normally, I'd go with your buddy on this one. 18-19"
frame size should be about right for someone of your size. The most important thing is to try a
range of bikes and see what is comfortable.

Quoted message said:

ii know the frame is measured form the top of the seat post to the middle of the crank but does
the length of the frame alter with it?

Yes it does.

if i get too big

Quoted message said:

a frame will i be reaching too far forward is my main concern.

Yep, although you can make minor adjustments with the seat and changing the lengths of stem.
Similarly, a frame that is too small will leave you cramped.

i have sat

Quoted message said:

ona couple of bikes in the shop but would like your opinions. ive been looking at a lot of bikes
on the net, in mags and in shops recently and the best ive seen that suits me and my budget is a
barracuda xc 350.

Hmm...

i

Quoted message said:

bought what mountain bike mag that has a list of "all" bikes but barracudas arent listed. are they
[censored] and not worthy of mentioning or is it just a biased mag?

Barracuda's don't have a wonderful reputation, I'm afraid. For 300 knicker, you should be able to
find something better. Try looking for some of last year's close out deals.

--
a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

b.bmx FAQ: t-online.debmx faq.htmOpen ↗

"Phil" <[email hidden]> wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

i have caught the bug after being dragged across the ny moors by my buddies. now i need some
advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. what frame size? im 6' with 34" inside leg.
ive been advised by the shop to get a 20" but my buddy says 18".

I assume you're talking about a mountain bike. You really need to test ride the bikes to figure out
your size. Geometries of mountain bikes vary so much from model to model that size numbers don't
mean much.

Ken

"Phil" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

hello all i have caught the bug after being dragged across the ny moors by my

buddies.

Quoted message said:

now i need some advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. what frame size? im 6' with
34" inside leg. ive been advised by the shop to get a 20" but my buddy says 18". ii know the frame
is measured form the top of the seat post to the middle

of

Quoted message said:

the crank but does the length of the frame alter with it? if i get too

big

Quoted message said:

a frame will i be reaching too far forward is my main concern. i have sat ona couple of bikes in
the shop but would like your opinions. ive been looking at a lot of bikes on the net, in mags and
in shops

recently

Quoted message said:

and the best ive seen that suits me and my budget is a barracuda xc 350.

i

Quoted message said:

bought what mountain bike mag that has a list of "all" bikes but

barracudas

Quoted message said:

arent listed. are they [censored] and not worthy of mentioning or is it just a biased mag?

sorry to harp on but i would appreciate any help

phil

Hi Phil. I'm new to biking (ish) and still very much wide eyed at the whole deal. Things I have
learned though:

Do not buy something that seems a deal on E-bay. It isn't (unless you're an expert at spotting the
real deals).

Components are every bit as important as the frame. Getting a good frame with cheap components only
means upgrades and repairs later.

Shimano make everything from top spec to real [censored]. Start at least with deore/lx/xt the lower spec
stuff can be pretty dire.

If that barracuda is the same as the stuff on e-bay, run a mile. I had one of those and have pretty
much rebuilt it as nearly every moving component has failed from swinging arm pin through to cables
and BB's. What's more I don't down hill, this is just XC in the Cotswolds and that was in less than
8 months of not particularly regular riding (but plenty of TLC maintenance). Have kept it as a
hack/training bike cos it's such a trial to ride!

Fat tyres aren't all that. 2.1 is wide in MTB land. consider the conditions you're riding in.

Unless you're spending £1500+ a full suspension bike is likely to less than the best buy for money.
There are plenty out there, but their component lists are generally a bit slack.

Personally, I like disks, and although I hate to say it, mechanical disks suck compared to hydro
brakes, and what's more compared to a good set of V-brakes.

Wiggle.co.uk is expensive, chainreaction cycles are cheaper price for price. Good service from
both to date.

Size of bike is a personal thing and depends on what you're doing and the geometry of the bike. If
you're off road then a smaller frame is better, if you're commuting to work (which I presume you're
not) then a larger frame is better. I'm 33" inside leg and 14 stone, my ideal off road frame size is
around 18 inches.

I'd ride a few and see how you get on, in any case, unless it's way too small/large adjustments can
be made with stem, handle bars and seat post.

One, other thing, go for it. I've now got an 03 Heckler/5th element/Marzocchi 03 Z1/XT monster and
I love it, what's more it's way more capable than I'll ever be so I'm not afraid to give it some
real stick.

Regards, Andy

p.s. I'm sure my views differ from a lot of people here, but that's what makes this world
interesting init.

On Thu, 20 Mar 2003 15:49:00 -0000, "Phil" <[email hidden]> blathered:

Quoted message said:

now i need some advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. sorry to harp on but i would
appreciate any help

This is what you need to know: bikemag.comstupid breed fasterOpen ↗

----
btinternet.com~peteajonesOpen ↗

AndyC said:

Components are every bit as important as the frame. Getting a good frame with cheap components
only means upgrades and repairs later.

At his price point, a good frame will serve him better. Bits will break, but then he has the
opportunity of upgrading as he goes along.

Quoted message said:

Shimano make everything from top spec to real [censored]. Start at least with deore/lx/xt the lower spec
stuff can be pretty dire.

Unfortunately, that sort of stuff is going to be well out his price range.

Quoted message said:

If that barracuda is the same as the stuff on e-bay, run a mile. I had one of those and have
pretty much rebuilt it as nearly every moving component has failed from swinging arm pin through
to cables and BB's. What's more I don't down hill, this is just XC in the Cotswolds and that was
in less than 8 months of not particularly regular riding (but plenty of TLC maintenance). Have
kept it as a hack/training bike cos it's such a trial to ride!

Fat tyres aren't all that. 2.1 is wide in MTB land. consider the conditions you're riding in.

2.1 isn't wide. It's about standard.

Quoted message said:

Personally, I like disks, and although I hate to say it, mechanical disks suck compared to hydro
brakes, and what's more compared to a good set of V-brakes.

Not true. But then you're off in to irrelevant territory...

Quoted message said:

Wiggle.co.uk is expensive, chainreaction cycles are cheaper price for price. Good service from
both to date.

I wouldn't say Wiggle was 'expensive'. They're not always as cheap as Chain Reaction, but then they
have a better range of goods, IMO.

Quoted message said:

One, other thing, go for it. I've now got an 03 Heckler/5th element/Marzocchi 03 Z1/XT monster and
I love it, what's more it's way more capable than I'll ever be so I'm not afraid to give it some
real stick.

Yeah, unfortunately you've just recommended a bike about 2 grand out of his price range.

Quoted message said:

p.s. I'm sure my views differ from a lot of people here, but that's what makes this world
interesting init.

Giving out advice is all well and good, just make sure you don't confuse the OP with irrelevant
information.

--
a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

b.bmx FAQ: t-online.debmx faq.htmOpen ↗

Phil said:

hello all i have caught the bug after being dragged across the ny moors by my buddies. now i need
some advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. what frame size? im 6' with 34" inside
leg. ive been advised by the shop to get a 20" but my buddy says 18". ii know the frame is
measured form the top of the seat post to the middle of the crank but does the length of the frame
alter with it? if i get too big a frame will i be reaching too far forward is my main concern. i
have sat ona couple of bikes in the shop but would like your opinions. ive been looking at a lot
of bikes on the net, in mags and in shops recently and the best ive seen that suits me and my
budget is a barracuda xc 350. i bought what mountain bike mag that has a list of "all" bikes but
barracudas arent listed. are they [censored] and not worthy of mentioning or is it just a biased mag?

sorry to harp on but i would appreciate any help

phil

Hi Phil,

you are right about the length of the frame changing with size. both your shop and your buddy are
(or could be) correct. it will depend on the 'style' of the frame, some frames have more slope to
the top tube than others. th best way to compare bikes from differant manufacturs is to use a
straight edge and a level. your eye will work fine as long as the bike is on a 'level'surface. set
the straight edge against the handle bar as close to the stem as you can, then keeping it parralel
to the floor measure to the seat post. this is the Effective lenght of the frame. it is Much more
important than seat tube lenght!!! in reality seat 'Tube' lenght means Nothing. try a particular
frame size around 18 - 20 ". set the saddle height by sitting on the bike with your heal ( in
stocking feet) on the pedal at it's lowest point. your legs should go straight and you heal stay on
the pedals when pedaling backwards. now this method is only good to about +/- 2cm. so be sure that
you have that much adjustment in the seatpost. you should still have At Least 3cm of post in the
tube (there is a minimum insertion line on the post, it should be >3cm into the tube). now measure
the distants from the saddle top to the center of the bottom bracket, this will be the (approx) same
distants for all frames - you can now set up any bike to the same test. the next thing to check is
handle bar height, the bars should be at saddle heght (within a few cm anyway). if the bars are more
than 2-3 cm above or below the saddle the frame is the wrong size. once you have a frame that fits
these test. get on the bike, get comfortable (ride it round the paking lot) on it. then have a
freind check your position on the bike your upper body should be at about a 45 deg angle when
riding. DON'T go by how comfortable - to the new to biking it is Never a comfortable position and
almost all think the bars should be higher than they should!! also a comfortable (at first saddle)
is usualy misurable after 30 min. a fairly hard saddle will be more comforable in the long run.
also, if you intend to ride more than 30min a week get the best componets you can. HTH
--
James Connell

"bomba" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Phil said:

hello all i have caught the bug after being dragged across the ny moors by my

buddies.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

now i need some advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. what frame size? im 6'
with 34" inside leg. ive been advised by the

shop

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to get a 20" but my buddy says 18".

It really depends on the bike. It's kind of like shoes, sometimes a size 10 from one manufacturer
will be the same as a size 8 from another. Normally, I'd go with your buddy on this one. 18-19"
frame size should be about right for someone of your size. The most important thing is to try a
range of bikes and see what is comfortable.

Quoted message said:

ii know the frame is measured form the top of the seat post to the

middle of

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the crank but does the length of the frame alter with it?

Yes it does.

if i get too big

Quoted message said:

a frame will i be reaching too far forward is my main concern.

Yep, although you can make minor adjustments with the seat and changing the lengths of stem.
Similarly, a frame that is too small will leave you cramped.

i have sat

Quoted message said:

ona couple of bikes in the shop but would like your opinions. ive been looking at a lot of bikes
on the net, in mags and in shops

recently

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and the best ive seen that suits me and my budget is a barracuda xc 350.

Hmm...

i

Quoted message said:

bought what mountain bike mag that has a list of "all" bikes but

barracudas

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

arent listed. are they [censored] and not worthy of mentioning or is it just

a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

biased mag?

Barracuda's don't have a wonderful reputation, I'm afraid. For 300 knicker, you should be able to
find something better. Try looking for some of last year's close out deals.

--
a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

a.bmx FAQ: t-online.debmx faq.htmOpen ↗

bomba is pretty much right on, as he usually seems. Let me add though that effective length (top
tube + stem length) is probably more important than height. Yes, you want some "package" clearance
if you come off unexpectly, but any seatpost will get you to the riding height you need. Limited by
stem length changes, you can't do much to the length of your bike. I don't like to throw seat
positioning in there (fore and aft) because that should be used to get the proper position of your
knee to the pedal. Having said that, you will want to consider the relative height of your grips to
your seat, after the seat is properly adjusted for height and fore and aft. Stems can be used to
change that as well as more (or less) spacers on the fork's steerer tube and riser bars.

There is a lot to consider, then once you get a bike to "technically" fit, according to the latest,
greatest fit algorithm, you still need to adjust it to your riding style, body type, previous back
injuries ... It is all very personal.

So a comment like, "to get a 20" but my buddy says 18"." is really just a starting point, and
quickly in the fitting process becomes meaningless. IMHO.
--
Craig Brossman, Durango Colorado

get a expert to measure you for a bike and then take a test ride...if you like..buy it!

Edwards

"AndyC" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Phil" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

hello all i have caught the bug after being dragged across the ny moors by my

buddies.

Quoted message said:

now i need some advice cos im going to spend some money on a new bike. what frame size? im 6'
with 34" inside leg. ive been advised by the

shop

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to get a 20" but my buddy says 18". ii know the frame is measured form the top of the seat post
to the

middle

Quoted message said:

of

Quoted message said:

the crank but does the length of the frame alter with it? if i get too

big

Quoted message said:

a frame will i be reaching too far forward is my main concern. i have

sat

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

ona couple of bikes in the shop but would like your opinions. ive been looking at a lot of bikes
on the net, in mags and in shops

recently

Quoted message said:

and the best ive seen that suits me and my budget is a barracuda xc 350.

i

Quoted message said:

bought what mountain bike mag that has a list of "all" bikes but

barracudas

Quoted message said:

arent listed. are they [censored] and not worthy of mentioning or is it just

a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

biased mag?

sorry to harp on but i would appreciate any help

phil

Hi Phil. I'm new to biking (ish) and still very much wide eyed at the whole deal. Things I have
learned though:

Do not buy something that seems a deal on E-bay. It isn't (unless you're

an

Quoted message said:

expert at spotting the real deals).

Components are every bit as important as the frame. Getting a good frame with cheap components
only means upgrades and repairs later.

Shimano make everything from top spec to real [censored]. Start at least with deore/lx/xt the lower spec
stuff can be pretty dire.

Componentry of this level is going to be out of his price range. And unless he KNOWS that he's gonna
enjoy the sport for a long period, an unnecessary expense for a first-timer. He can try it, and if
he likes it he can save and buy an entirely new bike with high specc'd stuff on it.

Quoted message said:

If that barracuda is the same as the stuff on e-bay, run a mile. I had one of those and have
pretty much rebuilt it as nearly every moving component has failed from swinging arm pin
through to cables and BB's. What's more I don't down hill, this is just XC in the Cotswolds and
that was in less

than

Quoted message said:

8 months of not particularly regular riding (but plenty of TLC

maintenance).

Quoted message said:

Have kept it as a hack/training bike cos it's such a trial to ride!

Fat tyres aren't all that. 2.1 is wide in MTB land. consider the

conditions

Quoted message said:

you're riding in.

Unless you're spending £1500+ a full suspension bike is likely to less

than

Quoted message said:

the best buy for money. There are plenty out there, but their component lists are generally a
bit slack.

Personally, I like disks, and although I hate to say it, mechanical disks suck compared to hydro
brakes, and what's more compared to a good set of V-brakes.

Wiggle.co.uk is expensive, chainreaction cycles are cheaper price for

price.

Quoted message said:

Good service from both to date.

Size of bike is a personal thing and depends on what you're doing and the geometry of the bike. If
you're off road then a smaller frame is better,

if

Quoted message said:

you're commuting to work (which I presume you're not) then a larger frame

is

Quoted message said:

better. I'm 33" inside leg and 14 stone, my ideal off road frame size is around 18 inches.

I'd ride a few and see how you get on, in any case, unless it's way too small/large adjustments
can be made with stem, handle bars and seat post.

Believe it or not, my inseam is 30" and I ride an 18.5" full-bouncer frame - which is bigger than
big Andy's frame here. On the bigger side, but I prefer it. My legs are short, but my upper body is
longer. <shrug> My "master framefitters" advice (years of experience I tell you! LOL!) would be that
you find a frame that should roughly match you then see if it feels good to you. Move the seat up
and down by and inch or two and try riding it around the carpark again. You'll get a feel for where
you knees and [censored] would like to be. Aim at not feeling cramped, nor stretched, and stand and move
about a bit to ensure that you feel free and mobile on it. You can agonise about this forever, but
take some basic care, and if it feels good go with it. It's not a precise science in my book.

Quoted message said:

One, other thing, go for it. I've now got an 03 Heckler/5th element/Marzocchi 03 Z1/XT monster and
I love it, what's more it's way

more

Quoted message said:

capable than I'll ever be so I'm not afraid to give it some real stick.

Regards, Andy

p.s. I'm sure my views differ from a lot of people here, but that's what makes this world
interesting init.

--
Westie

"bomba" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

AndyC wrote:

[snip]

Quoted message said:

Giving out advice is all well and good, just make sure you don't confuse the OP with irrelevant
information.

--
a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htmOpen ↗

a.bmx FAQ: t-online.debmx faq.htmOpen ↗

Fair enough. Just that when I dipped my cleats into XC mountain biking I made the mistake of going
for cheap off e-bay. If I hadn't had the chance to try a real bike I would never have extended
myself and bought something more exotic. Fair do's though, it's important to just get out there,
rather than be on something costing £2k over your budget!!!

thanks everyone for all the advice today i went to Bike Scene in Guisborough (highly recommended)
and bought myself a brand new Specialized Hardrock with a 19" frame. on Sunday i will be up and over
the North Yorkshire Moors so if anyone reading this sees someone bombing around with a cheesey grin
the size of Wales itll most probably be me. and now i realise i am just starting....

more questions to follow

cheers phil

Phil said:

thanks everyone for all the advice today i went to Bike Scene in Guisborough (highly recommended)
and bought myself a brand new Specialized Hardrock with a 19" frame. on Sunday i will be up and
over the North Yorkshire Moors so if anyone reading this sees someone bombing around with a
cheesey grin the size of Wales itll most probably be me. and now i realise i am just starting....

Excellent - a Specialized Hardrock is a good choice 🙂

Quoted message said:

more questions to follow

Fire away. Sit down, grab a beer and join in the fun 🙂

"Stephen Baker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

bomba says:

Quoted message said:

Excellent - a Specialized Hardrock is a good choice 🙂

Truth! I've had mine for a couple of years and love it. Hope you got one

with

Quoted message said:

rigid forks ;-))

Steve

why rigid forks? as i bought mine with front sus im intrigued as to why you ask that? went out this
weekend and couldnt beleive the difference suspension has made.

phil

"Stephen Baker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Phil says:

Quoted message said:

why rigid forks?

If you're buying a bottom-end bikes (let's be honest here....) you aren't

going

Quoted message said:

to get much of a sus fork for the money. I have tried riding my kid's

HardRock

Quoted message said:

with the Jett on it, and it just feels mushy and barely controllable.

With the

Quoted message said:

rigid fork my bike is crisp, predictable even "during" bumps and

whoop-de-doos,

Quoted message said:

and if I need more cush I'll put a 2.3 up front. Luckily the backside is

so

Quoted message said:

well padded and acclimatised that I haven't had to yet.

Steve

Similar (but different) experience. I just bought a 24" for my son, while looking (for the cheapest
price) there were many with shocks. At 3X my son's weight, I could hardly move the shock on one the
Trek and Schwinn bikes. What a joke! I found last years model without a shock, he is happy with a
new ride either way.
--
Craig Brossman, Durango Colorado