I've been playing around with my position to find the right setback, reach and saddle height to optimise power output and comfort. The position in the link below seems to offer the best power (measured over 20-30min), while still being comfortable and reasonably aerodynamic. Does the position look reasonable? Any thoughts or suggestions? Please ignore the mess in the background - it's time for a tidy-up.
no reason to get snippy with dave. OK so you found a few photos of the pros locking their elbows, did you notice that none of them are racing photos - each one looks like a training ride or fitting and the people are all riding at what appears to be a rather relaxed pace and chit chatting. When you are too stretched out to bend your elbows you don't have as good control over the bike for one, and it will likely cause you to have neck and shoulder issues for another. Your elbows act as shock absorbers if you can't ride with a comfortable bend in them its much easier to jerk the bike around if you hit a bump or pothole and all that road noise and jostling translates right up to your neck and shoulders and makes them hurt.
I've been playing around with my position to find the right setback, reach and saddle height to optimise power output and comfort. The position in the link below seems to offer the best power (measured over 20-30min), while still being comfortable and reasonably aerodynamic. Does the position look reasonable? Any thoughts or suggestions? Please ignore the mess in the background - it's time for a tidy-up.
For power and comfort, the most upright position should be the best. For maximum speed, as during a time trial (only a concern if you compete and do TT's or road races) the position that yields the highest watts/CdA is the fastest. Finding highest watts/CdA usually involves wind tunnel work, or possibly use of photos and a power meter to figure it out, or even just seeing what position gives you the fastest time over a set out and back TT course.
In general well bent arms in the drops with a flat back means you have a good aerodynamic position. The more upright you are, the less your arms will be bent. I would consider this such a personal matter that it isn't possible for us here to help you, because some people can't be comfortable in the low position (back pain) and others generate so much less power being bent over that it's better to ride upright anyway.
no reason to get snippy with dave. OK so you found a few photos of the pros locking their elbows, did you notice that none of them are racing photos - each one looks like a training ride or fitting and the people are all riding at what appears to be a rather relaxed pace and chit chatting. When you are too stretched out to bend your elbows you don't have as good control over the bike for one, and it will likely cause you to have neck and shoulder issues for another. Your elbows act as shock absorbers if you can't ride with a comfortable bend in them its much easier to jerk the bike around if you hit a bump or pothole and all that road noise and jostling translates right up to your neck and shoulders and makes them hurt.
Sorry, didn't mean to be snippy, just wanted to show that the straight elbows weren't necessarily a problem. I've taken onboard some advice and moved the saddle a touch forward. I'm also bending my elbows in the new photos, which can be seen at the link below. I was easily able to bend my elbows in the previous photos, but was running from camera (on timer) to bike to take the phtotos and didn't adopt a true riding position. See if these look any better:
no reason to get snippy with dave. OK so you found a few photos of the pros locking their elbows, did you notice that none of them are racing photos - each one looks like a training ride or fitting and the people are all riding at what appears to be a rather relaxed pace and chit chatting. When you are too stretched out to bend your elbows you don't have as good control over the bike for one, and it will likely cause you to have neck and shoulder issues for another. Your elbows act as shock absorbers if you can't ride with a comfortable bend in them its much easier to jerk the bike around if you hit a bump or pothole and all that road noise and jostling translates right up to your neck and shoulders and makes them hurt.
Actually that first one is Paris-Nice 2005.
Sorry, couldn't resist. 😄
Donm,
You (and your Powertap) seem to have answered your own question. If the position offers the best power/comfort balance and, as Eden quite rightly points out, you can control the bike in that position then it's job done. Although personally I'd want to see how power/comfort were after more than 20/30 mins.
I've been playing around with my position to find the right setback, reach and saddle height to optimise power output and comfort.
Honestly the best suggestion would be to go get a professional bike fit. There is a certain amount of science that goes into a fit. I would see if anybody can reccomend a "quality bike fitter" in your area.
Honestly the best suggestion would be to go get a professional bike fit. There is a certain amount of science that goes into a fit. I would see if anybody can reccomend a "quality bike fitter" in your area.
Home much difference is there between a pro-fit and following a chapter from a cycling book on bike fitting? I just tried the Lemond fit technique from is book dated around 1990.
Home much difference is there between a pro-fit and following a chapter from a cycling book on bike fitting? I just tried the Lemond fit technique from is book dated around 1990.
I had a rider gain 20 Watts at FTP after getting a his bike fit properly to him.
He bought a new custom bike (previous bike fit him like um well not like a glove) and most of the difference was in the last fore aft saddle adjustment.
It realy depends on your physiology and how far off your fit is now.