RapDaddyo said:I agree. Here's my prediction. You'll get the Polar because you already have an investment in Polar, this leverages that investment, you like the Polar graphs, it is the cheapest power option by far and you're not quite sure this power training is all it's cracked up to be anyway. Fast forward six months. You've figured out power training is great and you're fed up with only having good power data some of the time plus being totally worthless on a trainer. Then you sell your whole kit on eBay and get a real power meter.
Umm...he already has a Polar watch. Like another poster suggested, he can probably pick up a power module used for $50-$100. Why not give it a shot? The Polar gets a bad rep mostly because of set-up issues...but, in my experience, if you get the initial set-up right, the operation and performance are pretty trouble-free.
The key tips for getting reliable output from a Polar are:
1. Make sure the chain passes over (in all usable gear combos) an approx. 1" square centered on the "middle" mark of the power module.
2. Maximum vertical distance from power module to the chain is 30mm. Get this dimension right even if it means there's rubbing in some small-small gear combos (you shouldn't be using them anyway 😉 ) I prefer to keep it a little closer and typically have mine setup to be no more than 25mm.
3. Weigh your chain. Sometimes the "table values" for chain weight can be a little off.
4. Take a careful measurement of your chainstay length.
5. Ditch the Polar supplied cadence magnet. Pick up a nice, strong, rare earth type magnet and glue it to your crank or the end of your pedal spindle.
I've been using a Polar power module for over 2.5 years now. I can count the times on only one hand in that time period where I didn't get power data because of some issue with the Polar.
Take a look at those PM reviews linked above. In head-to-head tests on the road, the Polar data tracks the SRM and PT data identically. The only places where there are "issues" with the data quality is in trying to capture short sprints and when used on a stationary trainer. Other than that, I've found it to be the best "bang for the buck" PM solution out there.
If you want to talk about finicky operation, go take a look at the wattage list on Topica and take a gander at all the PT issues like data drops, bearing cones, water intrusion, download problems...etc, etc. Then, with the Ergomo, all I've been reading about is how everyone has to adjust the settings to make it read "correctly". Even, the "almighty SRM" has it's issues as well...plus you have the problem of dealing with having to recharge the crank battery.
I say give it a shot. But be careful, you'll get used to having that altitude reading and won't want to switch to another PM (IF you do) that doesn't have one 😉