Has anyone tried replacing the batteries in CS200 speed and cadence sensors? I know they're supposed to be 'return to factory' but I don't really want to do that unless I have to, although would be glad to hear from anyone who has done so and could say how much it'll cost.
Basically, I've got one CS200 and two full mounting/sensor kits, and they just don't perform the same as each other. One of the cadence sensors works fine mounted out of the way on the chainstay, whilst on the other bike I've had to mount it on the down tube in order to get enough signal to the computer.
Same with the speed sensors - one is happy living down right by the fork dropout (the only place I can get the magnet pointing in the right direction, the round section of my FSA wheels' otherwise flat-bladed spokes), whilst the other has to live halfway up the fork leg. I'd be much happier if I could get the second cad sensor to work on the chainstay as it's a neater fit and less likely to get bashed by accident, and I'd rather have both speed sensors in the same sort of place to avoid hassle when swapping wheels from one bike to the other.
Or is this enough of a known problem to make it worth taking 'em back to the shop...?
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Polar CS200 sensor batteries
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- 24 April 2006
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- 26 April 2006
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- Eastway82
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Hi
Not to sure if the CS200 has the same wireless sensors, but I've got a 625x with cadence and speed sensors, I've changed the batteries in both, you have to remove all the cable ties and you see two holes in the bottom of the unit, you need a jewellery phillips head screw driver, to remove the screws. Given the weatherproofing this is a tough jobs so be very careful not to round out the screw heads. The head of the casing then seperates.
The other issue is when you have to screw them up again as again they need to be very tight to seal properly.Some wheelsets such as dura-ace have a flat blade spoke magnet (which you can buy) that allows you to place the magnet where ever you want on the fork. This might work with your fsa wheels, for added security I've epoxyed mine the spoke. My cadence sensor is on the down tube near the bottom bracket, opposite the front derailler. It faces backwards and is angled outwards to get close to the magnet which I have epoxyed to the inner surface of my dura-ace crank (non chain ring side).
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Thanks for that. I'm pretty sure the CS200 sensors are different from yours, and don't have the screws/ability to dismantle, butt I'll have a look in the morning.
The problem I have with the way you have the cad sensor mounted is that if it gets knocked slightly, or moves even a fraction (it happens..), then the crank coming round will smash it out of the way. If you can mount the sensor in such a way that the worst case scenario is that the crank coming round just nudges it slightly and doesn't actually catch, that's got to be better. To me the neatest way seems to be chainstay mounting and this works perfectly on my training bike, just not on the race bike. I did look at seat tube mounting like yours (down tube is from headset to bottom bracket, seat tube from seat to bottom bracket, by the way) but it just didn't work with the braze-on front derailleur etc that I'm using.
Like you I've epoxyed the magnet to the crank (didn't trust the [censored] bit of double-sided sticky foam provided), but hadn't though of doing that on the spoke-mounted speed sensor. Again, I like having the sensor low down and it works fine on the race bike, just not on the training bike. -
Should also point out that the magnet supplied with the CS200 is a big plastic casing and a screw fixing, not a nice neat little item like your pictures. But to get the CS sensor to recognise a little magnet like that it'd have to be angled a long, long way into the wheel.
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Eastway82 said:
Should also point out that the magnet supplied with the CS200 is a big plastic casing and a screw fixing, not a nice neat little item like your pictures. But to get the CS sensor to recognise a little magnet like that it'd have to be angled a long, long way into the wheel.
Yes you do have to angle it a bit into the wheel (16 spoke radial Dura-ace) but with the cable ties done up tightly and the rubber shim in place the speed sensor does not move at all. So unless I crash I don't think there is a possibility of it entangling in the spokes. Same thing with the cadence sensor with the rubber shim underneath it does'nt move at all. -
If you're concerned about the sensors being too close to the cranks or spokes, then buy a couple o' rare earth magnets (Radio Shack has 'em cheap.). They'll allow you to run more of a gap between the sensors and the magnets.
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