Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

pivoting rack, for rear suspension?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 March 2007
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13 April 2007
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  1. I'd like a normal rear bike-rack suitable for carrying a decent load
    (those seatpost-only racks don't look like they'd hold my commuting
    load of spare clothes etc). To cope with changing angles due to rear
    suspension (I have a KHS soft-tail mtb, short travel) it would pivot
    at the three main points: seatpost attachment, chainstay attachment
    point, and rack-to-top-of-support-arm attachment.

    Are these made, or if not why not, and then- any tips for how to make
    one, if its a good idea?

    thanks,
    Charlie

  2. Quoted message said:


    I'd like a normal rear bike-rack suitable for carrying a decent load
    (those seatpost-only racks don't look like they'd hold my commuting
    load of spare clothes etc). To cope with changing angles due to rear
    suspension (I have a KHS soft-tail mtb, short travel) it would pivot
    at the three main points: seatpost attachment, chainstay attachment
    point, and rack-to-top-of-support-arm attachment.

    Are these made, or if not why not, and then- any tips for how to make
    one, if its a good idea?

    thanks,
    Charlie

    I buy only hardtail bikes for that reason. Look into the Nashbar
    wicker basket, for up to about 15-20 pounds, on the front. They are
    extremely handy, cause no air drag, and block cold winds from the
    vital crotchal area in the winter. $25-40 depending on sale.

    They're handlebar mounted with no other supports, and so don't care
    about suspension. I put a tiny strip of wood under the stem part of
    the mount, to make it ride a bit higher under load (this will make
    sense when you mount one).
    --
    Ron Hardin
    [email hidden]

    On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

  3. I've seen seatpost only racks rated for 9-10kg. I load mine (Topeak
    MTX) with a full set of clothes, minitool, patch kit, first aid kit,
    spare tubes, hand pump, 7200mAh battery and lunch and still have
    weight to spare.

  4. Quoted message said:

    I'd like a normal rear bike-rack suitable for carrying a decent load
    (those seatpost-only racks don't look like they'd hold my commuting
    load of spare clothes etc). To cope with changing angles due to rear
    suspension (I have a KHS soft-tail mtb, short travel) it would pivot
    at the three main points: seatpost attachment, chainstay attachment
    point, and rack-to-top-of-support-arm attachment.

    Are these made, or if not why not, and then- any tips for how to make
    one, if its a good idea?

    In general, not a good idea; you're making your luggage part of the
    unsprung mass, not to mention the complexity and expense of making
    different racks for every suspension configuration. A cantilever off
    the main frame is the way to go, see Moulton.

    If your bike looks like this
    http://www.k5.dion.ne.jp/~u-roak/LOVELOG_IMG/TS280003.JPG a normal
    rack rigidly mounted to the rear triangle will work just fine; your
    suspension is mostly there for decorative effect anyway, so spoiling
    it by tripling the unsprung mass won't be a great loss.

    Given that a seatpost is designed to take about 100kg, it should be
    possible to reinforce a seatpost rack for a decent load (unless you're
    already a Clydesdale class rider); the weakness is the weld joining
    the beam to the post clamp, adding some struts or tie rods 6 inches
    down or up the post will make a huge reduction to the stress on the
    weld

    You can also put a lot in an old fashioned saddle bag; it was
    traditional in the old days, if somebody was tearing it up too much on
    the Sunday club run, to put a couple of bricks in his saddle bag at
    the tea stop to take the edge off his enthusiasm

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

  5. [email hidden said:

    "]I'd like a normal rear bike-rack suitable for carrying a decent load
    (those seatpost-only racks don't look like they'd hold my commuting
    load of spare clothes etc). To cope with changing angles due to rear
    suspension (I have a KHS soft-tail mtb, short travel) it would pivot
    at the three main points: seatpost attachment, chainstay attachment
    point, and rack-to-top-of-support-arm attachment.

    Are these made, or if not why not, and then- any tips for how to make
    one, if its a good idea?

    thanks,
    Charlie


    oldmanmountain.comFront Rack.htm
    Front rack that can "easily" attach to your suspension fork.
    Take a look at the <PHOTO GALLERY> and scroll down to see what it looks like.
    Rear racks for soft tails are too complex and difficult to get adequate bracing while giving secure attachment points. Since there are many different soft tail designs it is nearly impossible for a rack to be made that would work on more than one design. It could be done, but the costs would make it out of the question for marketability.
    You can call Old Man Mountain and ask them what they can do for you. They do custom work.
    I have no connection with them other than buying a few of their products. They are well made and on the higher end of the price spectrum.

  6. Quoted message said:

    I'd like a normal rear bike-rack suitable for carrying a decent load
    (those seatpost-only racks don't look like they'd hold my commuting
    load of spare clothes etc). To cope with changing angles due to rear
    suspension (I have a KHS soft-tail mtb, short travel) it would pivot
    at the three main points: seatpost attachment, chainstay attachment
    point, and rack-to-top-of-support-arm attachment.

    Are these made, or if not why not, and then- any tips for how to make
    one, if its a good idea?

    That's a lot of effort and complexity (and potential failure points)
    for a rack. Then there's the issue of your baggage flopping around,
    changing its relative position, affecting the center of gravity - not
    sure what issues you'd encounter with an "articulated" rack, but I'm
    sure it would be "interesting".

    The Delta seat post rack I used for years was rated at 25 pounds
    (11.3kg), which is more than 99.5% of commuters use (OK, I made up the
    statistic, but it's probably not TOO far off). ;-)

    Mark Hickey
    Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com
    Home of the $795 ti frame

  7. On Mar 25, 5:32 am, daveornee <daveornee.2o0...@no-

    mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:


    http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Front_Rack.htm


    <snippedy>

    Quoted message said:

    Rear racks for soft tails are too complex and difficult to get adequate
    bracing while giving secure attachment points. Since there are many
    different soft tail designs it is nearly impossible for a rack to be
    made that would work on more than one design. It could be done, but
    the costs would make it out of the question for marketability.
    You can call Old Man Mountain and ask them what they can do for you.
    They do custom work.


    <snippedy>

    Take a look at
    http://www.oldmanmountain.com/rear_rack_page.htm
    They're *designed* to work on rear suspension bikes, even those
    without dropout eyelets. It might be a little tougher if the KHS in
    question lacks rim brake mounts, but a couple "P" clips should solve
    that.

    Jeff

  8. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like a normal rear bike-rack suitable for carrying a decent load
    (those seatpost-only racks don't look like they'd hold my commuting
    load of spare clothes etc). To cope with changing angles due to rear
    suspension (I have a KHS soft-tail mtb, short travel) it would pivot
    at the three main points: seatpost attachment, chainstay attachment
    point, and rack-to-top-of-support-arm attachment.

    Are these made, or if not why not, and then- any tips for how to make
    one, if its a good idea?

    I do not understand all the pivoting requirements.
    The Blackburn Expedition is. 600 grams and rock solid.
    I have been running one on a utility bike for 15 years.
    <http://www.touringcyclist.com/gear/model_7587.html>
    --
    Michael Press

  9. Kinky Cowboy said:

    On 25 Mar 2007 05:12:16 -0700, [email hidden] wrote:


    ....

    Quoted message said:

    If your bike looks like this http://www.k5.dion.ne.jp/~u-roak/LOVELOG_IMG/TS280003.JPGa normal
    rack rigidly mounted to the rear triangle will work just fine;

    Yep that's what my sus is like, and that rack hasn't interfered at all
    -- I still get the almost-inch of travel when I bounce hard down on
    it. Though without eyelets at the frame and a nutted wheel, I had to
    rig up a connection. I cut two 1.5" long thin steel tubes, thick as
    my pinkie finger. Flattened half of it, making a hole for the axle.
    The other end i left tubular, and put a little bolt through that,
    which becomes the axle for the rack to mount on (and rotate around,
    and needed a plastic sleeve to stop it rattling) The top of that is
    riveted to articulate anyway, and the seatpost-attachment still seems
    happy to move however it needs to (and the seatpost QR clamp is still
    tight enough to hold the seatpost up.)

    Quoted message said:

    your suspension is mostly there for decorative effect anyway, so spoiling
    it by tripling the unsprung mass won't be a great loss.

    I only commute, so I'm thinking/hoping that even the small-travel
    suspension does actually help smooth out my ride, by soaking up little
    pavement edges & bumps. Plus I converted the bike into a Cruzbike
    recumbent, so I can't unweight the bike when a bump approaches.

    What does 'tripling the unsprung mass' mean, and how does it spoil the
    suspension?

    thanks,
    Charlie

    ps. those Oldman racks look great, but too expensive for me,
    especially as this el-cheapo one seems to be working. I have a wire
    box on it that I through a small rectangular bag into (size of two
    shoeboxes) and its very convenient for work gear.

    pps. Michael Press, the pivoting requirement was to let the bike's
    rear suspension keep working. If I made it fully rigid, then it would
    be trying to stop the rear end compressing.

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