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Ping Mr. Loctite

Started by Klaas Bil · · Last activity · 12 posts · 575 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
17 June 2004
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21 June 2004
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Klaas Bil
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  1. 'They' say that bolts on bearing holders ('C-cups'😉 should only be
    tightened so much, so as to have the bearings not bind. I have found
    that binding is a gradual process in the sense that even a quite loose
    tightening slows down the wheel a little bit.

    When I mounted the wheelset in my spanking new KH24 last week I thought
    I hit a good compromise. Yet the bolts on both sides came loose during
    the maiden trip. I could feel sloppiness in the wheel. Now I've
    tightened them a little more, not caring of even checking about them
    being more binding.

    My question: what is wise?

    a. Tightening them so much that they will stay in 'for sure'?
    b. Tightening them just so much that they probably stay put, and carry
    an Allen wrench on rides?
    c. Tighten them only loosely and use loctite?

    If a, the bearings will be binding. Probably not so much that it hinders
    riding, but it will provoke more wear.
    If b, it seems like a design fault. I think it should not be NECESSARY
    to carry tools.
    If c, again it seems like a design fault. There must be a way with a
    counter nut to tighten a bolt lightly, yet have it not work its way out.
    Oh, and also, if c, I should have to go out and buy the stuff, I've
    never used it I think.

    Thanks for your insight,
    Klaas Bil

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  2. I have found a solution. Use pinch nuts (you'll have to upgrade your
    bolts too). They can be tightened to where they are just right and they
    won't come loose. They are much better than Nyloc nuts too. You may have
    to hunt around for a supplier. I get mine from Wicks Aircraft
    (wicksaircraft.com), but that's in the States.

    --
    Jim_Rob - Old Man

    TTFN

    JR

    "Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
    MTB racer
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  3. tighten them loosly like c, but use "lock tight" to make sure they stay
    put. the downside is you'll need "liquid wrench" to get them loose.

    --
    canadianrugby - my uni's 2 cool 4 School
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  4. Even the aerospace industrial equipment I work on can't be made so that
    the bearings can be easily changed without having some kind of spacers
    in the mount. We're talking ten thousandths of an inch here (micro
    meters) and the bearings can easily be deformed that much. You’re
    options for proper installation are:

    Quoted message said:

    Have bearing holders made that completely encircle the bearing, to


    extremely fine tolerances. VERY expensive.

    Quoted message said:

    Have bearing holders made to lesser tolerances, probably with shims.


    More expensive than you’d want on a unicycle.

    Quoted message said:

    Add a spacer with shims and tighten so that the bolts don’t come loose.


    Loctite is still a good option here.

    Quoted message said:

    Use a jam nut (usually thinner than a normal nut - used to lock the


    nuts together), but this will require a lot of fiddling to get the
    compression just right - as you tight the jam nut the main nut will
    move. This works ok - on something that doesn’t get beat on as our
    unicycles do.

    Quoted message said:

    Loctite or similar anti-vibration treatment.

    Obviously, Loctite is the easiest, least expensive option, a lot of our
    bolts (at work) get either lubricated (with anti-lock) or Loctited.

    --
    brian.slater - Nellfurtiti, the Wonder Cat

    Brian C. Slater
    AKA: Snoopy

    Ok, I am now officially in my normal state of -advanced- confusion.
    Don't try to confuse me, it won't make any difference.

    "To not decide is to decide" - undecided
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  5. For the GB4 and Hunter frames, which have a very nice
    completely-encircling bearing holder, I tighten the bolts to 40
    inch-pounds and use blue loctite on the threads. Works well but you
    still have to be aware of your uni's feel to detect those little clunks
    and bumps, as well as frequent visual and tactile inspection.

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

    '29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)

    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)

    'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)

    -- Dave Stockton
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  6. The bearing holder bolts often come loose during the first couple of
    rides on a unicycle with machined bearing holders (KH, GB4, DM Vortex,
    Hunter, others). It happens to me too. My fix is to use Loctite
    threadlocker on the bolts. Medium strength Loctite is plenty strong
    enough, but you can also use the high strength stuff if that is all that
    you have on hand.

    The Loctite will keep the bolt from vibrating and working itself loose.
    The Loctite is not strong enough to make it difficult to remove the
    bolts later.

    When you later remove the bolts or have to readjust the bolts you'll
    break the Loctite bond. But I've found that it is not necessary to
    immediately reapply the Loctite. The old dry Loctite in the thread
    grooves will continue to keep the bolt from vibrating even though it is
    no longer bonded in place.

    I go for finger tight. I don't have a torque wrench that can measure
    those small torques, so I can't give you a torque measurement for what I
    use. My rule of thumb is that if I make a fist around the allen key I'm
    going to get it too tight. I just hold the allen key by my finger tips
    and get the bolts tight enough just to be snug. That seems to work for
    me.

    I always carry an allen key that fits the bearing holder bolts. If
    something comes loose on my during a ride it will most likely be the
    bearing holder bolts. It is not wise to go on a muni ride without
    carrying at least a few tools. Muni has a way of making things vibrate
    loose. At a minimum you should carry allen keys to fit the bearing
    holder bolts, seatpost clamp, and crank bolts. I carry my little
    collection of allen keys and other small tools in an Altoids mint tin.
    It's small. I just throw it in a pocket in my hydration pack.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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  7. Thank you Mr. Loctite.

    john_childs said:

    *...you can also use the high strength stuff if that is all that you
    have on hand.*


    I don't have any Loctite at all. Am I strange or what? But, I will buy
    some. Would it be called Loctite over here?

    Quoted message said:


    *I go for finger tight.*


    How you describe finger tight, it already binds my bearings to a small
    degree, in that the wheel will not come to rest with the heaviest point
    at the bottom. Not a problem with riding at all, probably also not
    wear-wise.

    Quoted message said:


    *It is not wise to go on a muni ride without carrying at least a few
    tools.*


    That was how car drivers had to go out 50 years ago. Not anymore so.
    MUnicycles apparently live on an earlier stage of the evolutionary
    ladder.

    Klaas Bil

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  8. Klaas Bil said:

    Thank you Mr. Loctite.

    john_childs said:

    *...you can also use the high strength stuff if that is all that you
    have on hand.*


    I don't have any Loctite at all. Am I strange or what? But, I will buy
    some. Would it be called Loctite over here?

    Loctite is a brand name, so you might find it where you live. I use a
    different brand (whose name escapes me at the moment), but the product
    is generically called "thread lock" or something simiar. Any hardware
    or automotive store should be able to help you find the stuff.

    Ken

  9. Klaas Bil said:

    *Thank you Mr. Loctite.
    I don't have any Loctite at all. Am I strange or what? But, I will buy
    some. Would it be called Loctite over here?
    *

    The generic term is threadlocker. 'Loctite' (http://www.loctite.com/)
    and 'Permatex' (http://www.permatex.com/) are two common brands over
    here in the US. You should be able to get it at stores that sell
    automotive parts.

    Quoted message said:

    *
    How you describe finger tight, it already binds my bearings to a small
    degree, in that the wheel will not come to rest with the heaviest
    point at the bottom. Not a problem with riding at all, probably also
    not wear-wise.
    *

    It's just tight enough to be snug. The Gazz, or any large heavy tire,
    is too heavy to allow the wheel to settle the same way it does with a
    lighter street tire. The weight of the stem is insignificant compared
    to the massive weight of the tire. So you can't rely on the spinning
    the wheel and watching the way that the wheel comes to rest. With
    lighter wheels the wheel will come to a jerky stop if the bearings are
    too tight or the valve stem will come to rest at the bottom. Not so
    with a big heavy Gazz. You have to go by general feel.

    Quoted message said:

    *
    That was how car drivers had to go out 50 years ago. Not anymore so.
    MUnicycles apparently live on an earlier stage of the evolutionary
    ladder.

    Klaas Bil *

    Unicycles and bikes are mechanical and they get some rough treatment.
    Things break or come loose during rides. It's hard to avoid that.
    Putting threadlocker on the bolts that can vibrate loose will help
    minimize the chance of something coming loose during a ride, but it
    can't eliminate it. I bring more tools when I ride my bike than when I
    ride my muni. Many more things to possibly need to fix on a bike. On
    my bike I'll bring a chain tool, extra master link for the chain, a
    multi-tool, a few zip ties, spare tube, patch kit, tire levers, and
    pump. On my muni I'll usually only bring a selection of allen keys. I
    don't really worry about flats on the muni for most rides. Only on long
    epic rides do I bother to bring tire tools and a few extra tools.

    --
    john_childs - Guinness Mojo

    john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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  10. Klaas Bil said:

    *
    That was how car drivers had to go out 50 years ago. Not anymore so.
    MUnicycles apparently live on an earlier stage of the evolutionary
    ladder.
    *

    I'd be worried if you're going out rally driving or driving a 4x4 a long
    way away from roads without any tools?

    Joe

    --
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  11. Klaas Bil said:

    *That was how car drivers had to go out 50 years ago. Not anymore so.
    MUnicycles apparently live on an earlier stage of the evolutionary
    ladder.*


    One of the major reasons you don't need to carry tools in your car is
    that the automotive manufacturers now use threadlockers. It's actually
    designed in.🙂

    --
    brian.slater - Nellfurtiti, the Wonder Cat

    Brian C. Slater
    AKA: Snoopy

    Ok, I am now officially in my normal state of -advanced- confusion.
    Don't try to confuse me, it won't make any difference.

    "To not decide is to decide" - undecided
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  12. brian.slater said:

    *>Have bearing holders made that completely encircle the bearing, to
    extremely fine tolerances. VERY expensive.
    *

    My Steve Howard Uni has these. I never have to worry about my bearings
    binding.

    --
    paco - Co-Founder of the PacoGild Movement

    "But Satan is a jerk"
    -Ryan Langton
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