Performance Hybrid / Flat-bar Road Bike

DM said:

I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to USD)
range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days I do not
run. So far I like:
-Specialized Sirrus Sport
-Giant FCR1 or FCR2
-Trek 7.5
Any comments on the above bikes?

Yeah, as far as the Sirrus goes--it's a near grand Sora equipped bike.
Your paying for a pretty hypey frame considering what you're using the
bike for.

Trek 7.5=more upsell hype, especially the pointless low spoke wheels.

Giant's the same. Also with the pointless wheels to make sale easy to
suckers.

If you want something less likely to get stolen, which will perform
admirably, there are plenty of hybrids at the $500 price point which
will give you cash left over to customize.

None of those bikes necessarily suck--but you're paying an extra four
bills for mostly cosmetics, not performance.

landotter said:

DM said:

I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to USD)
range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days I do not
run. So far I like:
-Specialized Sirrus Sport
-Giant FCR1 or FCR2
-Trek 7.5
Any comments on the above bikes?

Yeah, as far as the Sirrus goes--it's a near grand Sora equipped bike.
Your paying for a pretty hypey frame considering what you're using the
bike for.

Trek 7.5=more upsell hype, especially the pointless low spoke wheels.

Giant's the same. Also with the pointless wheels to make sale easy to
suckers.

If you want something less likely to get stolen, which will perform
admirably, there are plenty of hybrids at the $500 price point which
will give you cash left over to customize.

None of those bikes necessarily suck--but you're paying an extra four
bills for mostly cosmetics, not performance.

Also have to mention: if you're commuting--you want a good bike, no
doubt, but you want something as low brow as possible. Stolen bikes
suck.

A good example of a solid choice, in my opinion would be something
like a Jamis Coda:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html

It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty geometry,
and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.

Only $450, no hype.

landotter wrote:
:: On Sep 5, 9:50 am, landotter <[email hidden]> wrote:
::: On Sep 5, 9:05 am, DM <[email hidden]> wrote:
:::
:::: I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to
:::: USD) range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days
:::: I do not run. So far I like:
:::: -Specialized Sirrus Sport
:::: -Giant FCR1 or FCR2
:::: -Trek 7.5
:::: Any comments on the above bikes?
:::
::: Yeah, as far as the Sirrus goes--it's a near grand Sora equipped
::: bike. Your paying for a pretty hypey frame considering what you're
::: using the bike for.
:::
::: Trek 7.5=more upsell hype, especially the pointless low spoke
::: wheels.
:::
::: Giant's the same. Also with the pointless wheels to make sale easy
::: to suckers.
:::
::: If you want something less likely to get stolen, which will perform
::: admirably, there are plenty of hybrids at the $500 price point which
::: will give you cash left over to customize.
:::
::: None of those bikes necessarily suck--but you're paying an extra
::: four bills for mostly cosmetics, not performance.
::
:: Also have to mention: if you're commuting--you want a good bike, no
:: doubt, but you want something as low brow as possible. Stolen bikes
:: suck.
::
:: A good example of a solid choice, in my opinion would be something
:: like a Jamis Coda:
::
:: http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html
::
:: It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty
:: geometry, and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.
::
:: Only $450, no hype.

Nice bike. Why go with flat-bar bike, though? Would not drop bars have
advantanges even for commuting?

Roger Zoul said:

landotter wrote:
:: On Sep 5, 9:50 am, landotter <[email hidden]> wrote:
::: On Sep 5, 9:05 am, DM <[email hidden]> wrote:
:::
:::: I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to
:::: USD) range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days
:::: I do not run. So far I like:
:::: -Specialized Sirrus Sport
:::: -Giant FCR1 or FCR2
:::: -Trek 7.5
:::: Any comments on the above bikes?
:::
::: Yeah, as far as the Sirrus goes--it's a near grand Sora equipped
::: bike. Your paying for a pretty hypey frame considering what you're
::: using the bike for.
:::
::: Trek 7.5=more upsell hype, especially the pointless low spoke
::: wheels.
:::
::: Giant's the same. Also with the pointless wheels to make sale easy
::: to suckers.
:::
::: If you want something less likely to get stolen, which will perform
::: admirably, there are plenty of hybrids at the $500 price point which
::: will give you cash left over to customize.
:::
::: None of those bikes necessarily suck--but you're paying an extra
::: four bills for mostly cosmetics, not performance.
::
:: Also have to mention: if you're commuting--you want a good bike, no
:: doubt, but you want something as low brow as possible. Stolen bikes
:: suck.
::
:: A good example of a solid choice, in my opinion would be something
:: like a Jamis Coda:
::
:: http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html
::
:: It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty
:: geometry, and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.
::
:: Only $450, no hype.

Nice bike. Why go with flat-bar bike, though? Would not drop bars have
advantanges even for commuting?

I think flat bars are okay for commuting, depending on the time on the
bike. More than 1 hour and the different hand positions of drop bars
might be better.

landotter wrote:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

A good example of a solid choice, in my opinion would be something
like a Jamis Coda:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html

It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty geometry,
and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.

Only $450, no hype.

I agree. A couple of days ago I had a relative ask me a similar question
about a hybrid, and the Jamis Coda was one of my recommendations.

It's a damn shame what's been happening to Trek and Specialized, but
fortunately there are companies like Jamis, Marin, Surly, and even REI
that have stepped in to fill the void. I think the strategy of selling
hype, while it may work for a while and be more profitable, is not going
to be a good long-term strategy.

Just A User wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::: landotter wrote:
::::: On Sep 5, 9:50 am, landotter <[email hidden]> wrote:
:::::: On Sep 5, 9:05 am, DM <[email hidden]> wrote:
::::::
::::::: I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to
::::::: USD) range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on
::::::: days I do not run. So far I like:
::::::: -Specialized Sirrus Sport
::::::: -Giant FCR1 or FCR2
::::::: -Trek 7.5
::::::: Any comments on the above bikes?
::::::
:::::: Yeah, as far as the Sirrus goes--it's a near grand Sora equipped
:::::: bike. Your paying for a pretty hypey frame considering what
:::::: you're using the bike for.
::::::
:::::: Trek 7.5=more upsell hype, especially the pointless low spoke
:::::: wheels.
::::::
:::::: Giant's the same. Also with the pointless wheels to make sale
:::::: easy to suckers.
::::::
:::::: If you want something less likely to get stolen, which will
:::::: perform admirably, there are plenty of hybrids at the $500 price
:::::: point which will give you cash left over to customize.
::::::
:::::: None of those bikes necessarily suck--but you're paying an extra
:::::: four bills for mostly cosmetics, not performance.
:::::
::::: Also have to mention: if you're commuting--you want a good bike,
::::: no doubt, but you want something as low brow as possible. Stolen
::::: bikes suck.
:::::
::::: A good example of a solid choice, in my opinion would be something
::::: like a Jamis Coda:
:::::
::::: http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html
:::::
::::: It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty
::::: geometry, and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.
:::::
::::: Only $450, no hype.
:::
::: Nice bike. Why go with flat-bar bike, though? Would not drop bars
::: have advantanges even for commuting?
:::
:::
:: I think flat bars are okay for commuting, depending on the time on
:: the bike. More than 1 hour and the different hand positions of drop
:: bars might be better.

I can see that....I guess my thing would be to get the bars up front that
will give you the widest range of use of the bike, for one never knows...the
bike might get used for a weekend metric every now and again. Do drop bars
cost that much more?

But just for my own knowledge....are flat-bars really ever better? Perhaps
for mountain biking where you might fall off or go over the handlebars?
Perhaps when riding near thick vegetation flat bars are better as they don't
get caught as much?

Roger Zoul said:

Just A User wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::: landotter wrote:

snip

Quoted message said:

:::::http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html
:::::
::::: It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty
::::: geometry, and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.
:::::
::::: Only $450, no hype.
:::
::: Nice bike. Why go with flat-bar bike, though? Would not drop bars
::: have advantanges even for commuting?
:::
:::
:: I think flat bars are okay for commuting, depending on the time on
:: the bike. More than 1 hour and the different hand positions of drop
:: bars might be better.

I can see that....I guess my thing would be to get the bars up front that
will give you the widest range of use of the bike, for one never knows...the
bike might get used for a weekend metric every now and again. Do drop bars
cost that much more?

But just for my own knowledge....are flat-bars really ever better? Perhaps
for mountain biking where you might fall off or go over the handlebars?
Perhaps when riding near thick vegetation flat bars are better as they don't
get caught as much?

You're just not going to find a drop bar bike at the Jamis's price
point. However, as the OP mentioned a grand, that gets you a Kona Jake
the Snake, one of the coolest and most practical bikes around. Switch
tires, and it's plenty zoomy. Many other nice drop bar bikes that have
good clearances for a grand.

At the $500 price point, you really get the best value, IMHO, from a
hybrid from Jamis, Marin, Ibex, etc. Throw some ergo bar ends on, and
you get plenty of comfort. Don't forget the Ritchey True grips as
well. Perfect for commuting. Slap some racks and a butterfly/trekking
bar on one of those mid priced hybrids, and you've got a poor man's
touring bike.

IMHO, $1000 flat bar bikes are just a marketing gimmick. If I'm
spending that much on a bike, then it's for a bike that I go for epic
rides on, and for epic rides, I want drops or moustache bars.
Certainly, I know folks that get along with flat bars great, but not
enough to explain the number of luxe flat bar bikes--which are likely
a reaction to civilian sport bikes going towards ludicrously low drops
in the past decade.

The things I find absurd on so-called "city bikes" are low spoke count
wheels and disc brakes. Regular wheels with box rims are easier to
service, cheaper, attract less thievery, and often stronger. LP brakes
with Kool Stops are plenty nice as well, and allow mounting of racks
and fenders--and cost less. Holy Moly!

Roger Zoul said:

But just for my own knowledge....are flat-bars really ever better? Perhaps
for mountain biking where you might fall off or go over the handlebars?
Perhaps when riding near thick vegetation flat bars are better as they don't
get caught as much?

The width of flat bars gives better control at low speed, and the palms-
down hand position lets you turn them farther without contorting your
wrists. Both factors are important for mountain biking. Drop bars for
mountain biking have been tried, but all but a handful of people have
rejected them.

Some people find flat bars more comfortable. I'm not one of them.

I think flat bars are less intimidating to novice cyclists because
there's no question of where to grip them. There's only one possible
hand position, and it gives easy access to the shifters and excellent
braking. My experience is that flat bar setups are less sensitive to
small changes in reach, which means that a given flat bar bike is more
likely to feel right "out of the box". Flat bar bikes also tend to be
set up for a more upright riding position.

That said, I find the single position that flat bars provide terribly
uncomfortable for any length of time. On my mountain bike, where drop
bars would not be a good choice, I use a bar with significant sweepback
to take the strain off my wrists:

<http://www.on-one.co.uk/oldsite/products/marypics.html>

Steve Gravrock wrote:
:: On 2007-09-05, Roger Zoul <[email hidden]> wrote:
::
::: But just for my own knowledge....are flat-bars really ever better?
::: Perhaps for mountain biking where you might fall off or go over the
::: handlebars? Perhaps when riding near thick vegetation flat bars are
::: better as they don't get caught as much?
::
:: The width of flat bars gives better control at low speed, and the
:: palms- down hand position lets you turn them farther without
:: contorting your wrists. Both factors are important for mountain
:: biking. Drop bars for mountain biking have been tried, but all but a
:: handful of people have rejected them.
::
:: Some people find flat bars more comfortable. I'm not one of them.
::
:: I think flat bars are less intimidating to novice cyclists because
:: there's no question of where to grip them. There's only one possible
:: hand position, and it gives easy access to the shifters and excellent
:: braking. My experience is that flat bar setups are less sensitive to
:: small changes in reach, which means that a given flat bar bike is
:: more likely to feel right "out of the box". Flat bar bikes also tend
:: to be set up for a more upright riding position.
::
:: That said, I find the single position that flat bars provide terribly
:: uncomfortable for any length of time. On my mountain bike, where drop
:: bars would not be a good choice, I use a bar with significant
:: sweepback to take the strain off my wrists:
::
:: <http://www.on-one.co.uk/oldsite/products/marypics.html>

Thanks for the info. I rode a flat-bar mountain-style bike down a big
mountain (on paved roads for about 40 miles) in Hawaii this summer. The bars
just killed my hands. I would stop and change the set height, etc, all to
no avail. Those bars you show there would have been wonderful, however.

Roger Zoul said:

Steve Gravrock wrote:
:: That said, I find the single position that flat bars provide terribly
:: uncomfortable for any length of time. On my mountain bike, where drop
:: bars would not be a good choice, I use a bar with significant
:: sweepback to take the strain off my wrists:
::
:: <http://www.on-one.co.uk/oldsite/products/marypics.html>

Thanks for the info. I rode a flat-bar mountain-style bike down a big
mountain (on paved roads for about 40 miles) in Hawaii this summer. The bars
just killed my hands. I would stop and change the set height, etc, all to
no avail. Those bars you show there would have been wonderful, however.

The On-One Mary bar is the shape most mtb bars *should be*. I still
don't get why motorcycles come with grips at a reasonable angle, but
mtb manufacturers insist on a much too straight bar. I might get a
Mary for my new Dew or even a cool Titec (Jones) H-bar:

http://www.bikeman.com/content/view/1080/72/

Probably will end up with a flipped North Road in the end. ;-D

landotter said:

Roger Zoul said:

Just A User wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::: landotter wrote:

snip

Quoted message said:

:::::http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html
:::::
::::: It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty
::::: geometry, and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.
:::::
::::: Only $450, no hype.
:::
::: Nice bike. Why go with flat-bar bike, though? Would not drop bars
::: have advantanges even for commuting?
:::
:::
:: I think flat bars are okay for commuting, depending on the time on
:: the bike. More than 1 hour and the different hand positions of drop
:: bars might be better.

Quoted message said:

I can see that....I guess my thing would be to get the bars up front that
will give you the widest range of use of the bike, for one never knows...the
bike might get used for a weekend metric every now and again. Do drop bars
cost that much more?

Quoted message said:

But just for my own knowledge....are flat-bars really ever better? Perhaps
for mountain biking where you might fall off or go over the handlebars?
Perhaps when riding near thick vegetation flat bars are better as they don't
get caught as much?

You're just not going to find a drop bar bike at the Jamis's price
point.

~$450? I'd look over at Bikes Direct for a drop bar bike in that
range:

http://www.bikesdirect.com

They often have some very good values in that range.

<remainder snipped>

Ozark Bicycle said:

landotter said:

On Sep 5, 11:53 am, "Roger Zoul" <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Just A User wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::: landotter wrote:

snip

Quoted message said:

:::::http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/coda.html
:::::
::::: It's got nice double wall box rims, solid drivetrain, sporty
::::: geometry, and room for all the [censored] you'd care to bolt to it.
:::::
::::: Only $450, no hype.
:::
::: Nice bike. Why go with flat-bar bike, though? Would not drop bars
::: have advantanges even for commuting?
:::
:::
:: I think flat bars are okay for commuting, depending on the time on
:: the bike. More than 1 hour and the different hand positions of drop
:: bars might be better.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I can see that....I guess my thing would be to get the bars up front that
will give you the widest range of use of the bike, for one never knows...the
bike might get used for a weekend metric every now and again. Do drop bars
cost that much more?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

But just for my own knowledge....are flat-bars really ever better? Perhaps
for mountain biking where you might fall off or go over the handlebars?
Perhaps when riding near thick vegetation flat bars are better as they don't
get caught as much?

Quoted message said:

You're just not going to find a drop bar bike at the Jamis's price
point.

~$450? I'd look over at Bikes Direct for a drop bar bike in that
range:

http://www.bikesdirect.com

They often have some very good values in that range.

<remainder snipped>

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/galaxy.htm

$500 for a steel galaxy with Deore mech and Sora Shifters. Not sexy,
but infinitely more practical than the ludicrous stuff being pimped by
bike shops.

Still, I like mid priced hybrids as urban warriors. Sometimes a bar
change is needed, but meh. I find non-drops to offer more confidence
in gritty urban riding in traffic. I used to run pretty narrow sawed
down flats in Chicago, not stupid fixie punk narrow, though. I'd gone
from flat to North Road back to flat again (with Ritchey grips) as it
wasn't about ergonomics, it was about control when busting down
Michigan Av.

Quoted message said:

That said, I find the single position that flat bars provide terribly
uncomfortable for any length of time. On my mountain bike, where drop
bars would not be a good choice, I use a bar with significant sweepback
to take the strain off my wrists:

<http://www.on-one.co.uk/oldsite/products/marypics.html>

I prefer drops on my weekend ride which are long and on smooth
roads. But I have flats on my commute bike. There are just too
many things on the roadway (train tracks, potholes, etc.) that want
to grab your front wheel. You have a more solid control with the
flats.

Of course, comfort trumps all other concerns. I would go with the
drops iff they are the most comfortable.

landotter wrote:
:: On Sep 5, 2:09 pm, "Roger Zoul" <[email hidden]> wrote:
::: Steve Gravrock wrote:
::::: That said, I find the single position that flat bars provide
::::: terribly uncomfortable for any length of time. On my mountain
::::: bike, where drop bars would not be a good choice, I use a bar
::::: with significant sweepback to take the strain off my wrists:
:::::
::::: <http://www.on-one.co.uk/oldsite/products/marypics.html>
:::
::: Thanks for the info. I rode a flat-bar mountain-style bike down a
::: big mountain (on paved roads for about 40 miles) in Hawaii this
::: summer. The bars just killed my hands. I would stop and change the
::: set height, etc, all to no avail. Those bars you show there would
::: have been wonderful, however.
::
:: The On-One Mary bar is the shape most mtb bars *should be*. I still
:: don't get why motorcycles come with grips at a reasonable angle, but
:: mtb manufacturers insist on a much too straight bar. I might get a
:: Mary for my new Dew or even a cool Titec (Jones) H-bar:
::
:: http://www.bikeman.com/content/view/1080/72/
::

Now, that's a bar worth spending extra for.

landotter said:

Quoted message said:

Steve Gravrock wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

:: <http://www.on-one.co.uk/oldsite/products/marypics.html>

Quoted message said:

The On-One Mary bar is the shape most mtb bars *should be*. I still
don't get why motorcycles come with grips at a reasonable angle, but
mtb manufacturers insist on a much too straight bar. I might get a
Mary for my new Dew or even a cool Titec (Jones) H-bar:

http://www.bikeman.com/content/view/1080/72/

I considered the H bar first but rejected it because it apparently
doesn't play well with trigger shifters. Jones doesn't come out and say
why, but I get the impression that the crossbar is right where you'd
want the shifter to go. The setups that work well with the H bar are
apparently the new flat bar STI shifters and barcons mounted on Paul
Thumbies. Neither is particularly cheap if you don't already have it
laying around.

If you get the Mary bar, bring an allen wrench along on the first ride
so you can find the angle that best distributes the pressure along your
hand. If you set it level it'll most likely hurt. Putting the ends an
inch or an inch and a half below the front corners works for me. You'll
want to raise your stem slightly to compensate. Since the outer section
of the H bar is basically the same, a similar setup should work.

"DM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to USD)
range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days I do not
run. So far I like:
-Specialized Sirrus Sport
-Giant FCR1 or FCR2
-Trek 7.5
Any comments on the above bikes?

I'd get a drop-bar road bike, in your circumstance. A thousand bucks would
buy you a nice one. But if you're looking at mainly a commuter bike, how
about an REI transfer?

http://www.rei.com/product/744802

--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
http://www.bicyclemeditations.org/
See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

DM said:

I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to USD)
range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days I do not
run. So far I like:
-Specialized Sirrus Sport
-Giant FCR1 or FCR2
-Trek 7.5
Any comments on the above bikes?

just purchased a Fuji Absolute for the same reason. only paid 385 for
it. works great.

Quoted message said:

DM said:

I'm considering a performance hybrid in the $1,000 Cdn (close to USD)
range. I'll be using it to commute and to cross-train on days I do not
run. So far I like:
-Specialized Sirrus Sport
-Giant FCR1 or FCR2
-Trek 7.5
Any comments on the above bikes?

just purchased a Fuji Absolute for the same reason. only paid 385 for
it. works great.

Having gone ten years since my 1972 Schwinn Continental was stolen, I
also considered the Specialized Sirrus and the Trek 7.5, then I opted
for the Gary Fisher Mendota ($975 with a rack). The flat handlebars
are quite an adjustment, but the bike as a whole is an absolute
pleasure for this 50 year old. The lightweight aluminum frame makes
for a FAST ride! My neighborhood is a 50/50 mix of pavement and brick
roads, and this bike makes the transition with ease ( the bricks are a
little rough, but the 700x32 tires and the carbon switchblade fork
provide ample shock absorption--grass is easy as is hard gravel
roads). In town, it's a breeze! Concerning the Bontrager Select City
low spoke count rims, I have my concerns, but my LBS dealer assures me
of their durability--time will tell. BTW--I chose a higher priced ride
as I am more likely to be motivated to get in my cardio workout on a
$1000 bike than a $200-$500 one. LOL