Pedals and water

If you can - it seems like it would take a special tool - I'd recommend stripping them and drying them out.

See here:si.shimano.comdownload.phpOpen ↗

If I couldn't get them apart, I'd be tempted to set the oven on about the boiling temp of water and give them a good roasting.
That ought to steam the water out w/o doing undue damage to anything else in there.
Might make the grease more runny though, so prepare for some mess.

You don't need to steam them in fact I'm totally against this, all you need to do is once the pedals are apart is to give them a good dousing of WD40 which displaces water, let the pedals drain off the excess WD40 and let them dry for about 24 hours, then simply regrease and reassemble. Here is You Tube video on how to overhaul these pedals:

The driver's insurance settlement should buy you a new bike with new pedals and a buxom lass to polish them for you.

I hope you're healing up and the pedals should be disassembled and inspected for water infiltration. If the pedals have loose ball type bearings, cleaning and repacking is simple. If there are sealed bearings inside they may be fine, but I would replace them...just because.

Hopefully, this is the schematic for your pedal and it has loose ball type bearings:
bike.shimano.comEV PD M520 2235 v1 m56577569830608614.pdfOpen ↗

Froze said:

You don't need to steam them in fact I'm totally against this, all you need to do is once the pedals are apart is to give them a good dousing of WD40 which displaces water, let the pedals drain off the excess WD40 and let them dry for about 24 hours, then simply regrease and reassemble.  Here is You Tube video on how to overhaul these pedals:Â

My suggestion was to steam if disassembly wasn't possible. Either-or, not this-and-that. Water left lurking can do irrepairable damage.

Google is your friend:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M520-2235_v1_m56577569830608614.pdf

I have done a fair share of riding through deep standing water for fun. I never had an issue with water intrusion in the bearings. If it were my bike, I'd only disassemble them if they started to squeak, creak or were gritty. The grease wouldn't be washed out by water and I dont think the spindles will corrode.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by dabac

My suggestion was to steam if disassembly wasn't possible. Either-or, not this-and-that.
Water left lurking can do irrepairable damage.

Except that if you take the pedals apart and use WD40 you won't have water lurking about, I doubt there's that much if any water inside anyways, but caution is always a good thing.

Froze said:

Except that if you take the pedals apart and use WD40 you won't have water lurking about, I doubt there's that much if any water inside anyways, but caution is always a good thing.

Please realize that we are posting from two different perspectives. You are assuming that disassembly is possible for the OP, and I'm providing an option if it's not. And since we're assuming different conditions and limitations, our suggestions don't compete. They are what's called "mutually exclusive". And there is no "best" in a comparison between two mutually exclusive options. One could argue that there isn't even a valid basis for comparison.

Thanks for the advice guys.
In terms of insurance I won't claim as it looks unlikely they will catch the guy. The car never hit me, he "unless she has a deep voice" yelled out abuse and threw a bottle at me while they were driving the opposite direction. So unless the police were able to get finger prints off the bottle I couldn't give them much more info of the offender.
Somehow I end up over this fence

https://www.google.co.nz/maps/@-41.202015,174.818915,3a,75y,42.62h,66.07t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1sbpwI_mpfOKcYBTIYFjyoSQ!2e0

I will see if I can pull apart when I am capable in the next few days and do a clean up and re grease.

Holy [censored]!

Did the bottle hit you in the skull and knock you out or did you take evasive action and go over that fence?

I guess NZ has a few of our drunk rednecks. Good luck and heal fast.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB
Did the bottle hit you in the skull and knock you out or did you take evasive action and go over that fence?

No it didn't hit me, possibly would have been better if it did. I just looked up and it came flying at me. swerved to miss it and somehow hit the fence then went over.

The helmet had a crack right across on the inside and dented not he outside so that certainly saved me. As for being knocked out I really don't know to be honest.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by maydog

I have done a fair share of riding through deep standing water for fun. I never had an issue with water intrusion in the bearings. If it were my bike, I'd only disassemble them if they started to squeak, creak or were gritty. The grease wouldn't be washed out by water and I dont think the spindles will corrode.

I guess all pedals aren't created equal.

One season of winter commuting turned the bearings of my Crank Brothers Smarties into something looking like coffee grounds. Those bearings, along with the spindles certainly did corrode.

And my CB Egg Beaters and Candies aren't doing much better.

Even the pedals on the "race bike", which doesn't see much mileage, needs yearly maintenance.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by dabac

I guess all pedals aren't created equal.

One season of winter commuting turned the bearings of my Crank Brothers Smarties into something looking like coffee grounds. Those bearings, along with the spindles certainly did corrode.

And my CB Egg Beaters and Candies aren't doing much better.

Even the pedals on the "race bike", which doesn't see much mileage, needs yearly maintenance.

Speedplay pedals seem to have good weather-resistance, appearing totally sealed from the outside. Plus, they are lubed easily with a mini grease gun just by removing a grease port screw on the end of the spindle. The factory recommends lubing every 2000 miles, but in harsh conditions you could do it more often. I've had mine (the Zero SS version) for 10 years and 38K miles now, and they are still spinning smoothly.

Note however that our definitions of winter weather conditions and acceptable riding weather may differ.

Assuming

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by dabac

Please realize that we are posting from two different perspectives.

You are assuming that disassembly is possible for the OP, and I'm providing an option if it's not.
And since we're assuming different conditions and limitations, our suggestions don't compete.
They are what's called "mutually exclusive".
And there is no "best" in a comparison between two mutually exclusive options. One could argue that there isn't even a valid basis for comparison.

Assuming? The only assumption is if the OP gave us the correct model of pedal, if they did then I've assumed nothing because they can be disassembled. Se my early You Tube post

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by dhk2
Speedplay pedals seem to have good weather-resistance, appearing totally sealed from the outside. Plus, they are lubed easily with a mini grease gun just by removing a grease port screw on the end of the spindle. The factory recommends lubing every 2000 miles, but in harsh conditions you could do it more often. I've had mine (the Zero SS version) for 10 years and 38K miles now, and they are still spinning smoothly.

Note however that our definitions of winter weather conditions and acceptable riding weather may differ.

I agree with this. I can attest to the importance of having the ability to grease the pedals as easily as SpeedPlay makes it. I have a set of Suntour Superbe hubs with the grease ports, and twice a year since 1984 I put in new grease and the old would ooze out, those hubs were exposed to water and yet are still good after over 160,000 miles. I can only assume that with my SpeedPlay pedals the bearings should last a long time too if I keep the grease clean.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Froze
Assuming
Assuming? The only assumption is if the OP gave us the correct model of pedal, if they did then I've assumed nothing because they can be disassembled.

Look, what do you think is more relevant for this thread:

1) whether the pedals can be disassembled at all
2) whether the pedals can be disassembled by the OP

These two are not the same, and you are assuming the latter.

Your suggestion is pointless if the OP can't get them apart.
My suggestion isn't worth much if he can.

And since the schematic I linked to contains the "TL-PD40 Special Tool", I wouldn't take disassembly by the OP for granted.
Maybe he has the tool, maybe he hasn't.
If he hasn't, then maybe he is willing and able to try his luck with a set of vise grips or similar. Maybe he isn't.
If he tries, maybe he is successful. Maybe he isn't.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by dabac

Look, what do you think is more relevant for this thread:

1) whether the pedals can be disassembled at all
2) whether the pedals can be disassembled by the OP

These two are not the same, and you are assuming the latter.

Your suggestion is pointless if the OP can't get them apart.
My suggestion isn't worth much if he can.

And since the schematic I linked to contains the "TL-PD40 Special Tool", I wouldn't take disassembly by the OP for granted.
Maybe he has the tool, maybe he hasn't.
If he hasn't, then maybe he is willing and able to try his luck with a set of vise grips or similar. Maybe he isn't.
If he tries, maybe he is successful. Maybe he isn't.

I'll buy this...the post not the pedal tool!

One can never have too many tools. It's unpossible. Even when it comes to shimaNO-specific tools! [IMG]files.cyclingforums.combig smile.pngOpen ↗[/IMG]

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB
One can never have too many tools. It's unpossible. Even when it comes to shimaNO-specific tools! [IMG]files.cyclingforums.combig smile.pngOpen ↗[/IMG]

Maybe not too many overall. But it's definitely possible to have too many of the wrong kind.
For instance I got given a set of Keensert installation tools( a high-end version of Heli-Coil basically). Very nicely worked, hideously expensive and utterly useless to me.
How long do you think it'll take me to work up the courage to throw them out?

Heh! I use Keenserts (and Rosans and a few other obscure inserts) and have a few sizes of installation sets!

Sell that sucker on eBay. Keensert tooling is not cheap and you should get a few bucks for it...bucks to spend on usable Park bicycle tools!

I just had to buy BB86PF30 tooling...press fit pushers and the bearing removal tool. 44 years and all I needed was a fixed cup wrench, a lock ring hook spanner and a pin tool for the adjustable cup. Then it was external cups. Now every swinging [censored] on the planet has a new BB 'standard'.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by dabac
Maybe not too many overall. But it's definitely possible to have too many of the wrong kind.
For instance I got given a set of Keensert installation tools( a high-end version of Heli-Coil basically). Very nicely worked, hideously expensive and utterly useless to me.
How long do you think it'll take me to work up the courage to throw them out?

A person does need to be careful about the tools they buy, if a tool is rarely going to be used why buy the best? if you're not a professional or a hobbyist why buy professional quality tools? Most people would be more than satisfied with tools from Home Depot, or Lowes (I don't like Menards [censored]), but since it's all made in China anyways you can get a better price and a better warranty like Sears does for Craftsman tools, which are also made in China now, is to go to Harbor Freight. Some stuff at Harbor Freight is [censored] like their electric tools, but their chrome tools, air impact strength tools are the same quality you'll find at other retail stores but you get the no receipt needed hassle free return forever.