A month or so ago I bought an FSA Energy crank, and it came with thin stainless washers to go between the crankarm and pedal (or at least that's what I figured out, since they weren't mentioned in the instructions). It was the first time I'd ever seen 'em.
Anyway, I just bought an FSA from one of the discount internet places, and there were no washers (no box or hardware of any kind.. must have been OEM).
Do I need to scrounge up some washers? Does it make a difference? Should I just use the ones that came with the Energy?
A month or so ago I bought an FSA Energy crank, and it came with thin stainless washers to go between the crankarm and pedal (or at least that's what I figured out, since they weren't mentioned in the instructions). It was the first time I'd ever seen 'em.
Anyway, I just bought an FSA from one of the discount internet places, and there were no washers (no box or hardware of any kind.. must have been OEM).
Do I need to scrounge up some washers? Does it make a difference? Should I just use the ones that came with the Energy?
Thanks in advance. Tom
I remember reading in this group that TruVative found pedal crank washers extended the fatigue life of the crank, but there was some "discussion" about it. Try here:
A month or so ago I bought an FSA Energy crank, and it came with thin stainless washers to go between the crankarm and pedal (or at least that's what I figured out, since they weren't mentioned in the instructions). It was the first time I'd ever seen 'em.
Anyway, I just bought an FSA from one of the discount internet places, and there were no washers (no box or hardware of any kind.. must have been OEM).
Do I need to scrounge up some washers? Does it make a difference? Should I just use the ones that came with the Energy?
Thanks in advance. Tom
They don't really help, but it leads to another discussion that the pedal to crank interface standard should be modified to have a shape similar to lug nuts and car wheels. A quotation from Jobst Brandt: "The problem is that the contact face is parallel to the force applied and that can't work as we see from the need for a left hand thread on the left pedal. The joint is always moving. Placing a washer between that face does nothing to reduce that motion. In fact part of the fretting failure is INSIDE the thread although it is most visible on the face of the crank when the pedal is removed."
If we had a new pedal to crank conical interface standard this problem would go away.
tnyzio-<< A month or so ago I bought an FSA Energy crank, and it came with thin stainless washers >><BR><BR> << Do I need to scrounge up some washers? Does it make a difference? Should I just use the ones that came with the Energy? >><BR><BR>
Should use washers, why they are included. The will allow the pedal part that contacts the arm from gooning up the arm.
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
A month or so ago I bought an FSA Energy crank, and it came with thin stainless washers to go between the crankarm and pedal (or at least that's what I figured out, since they weren't mentioned in the instructions). It was the first time I'd ever seen 'em.
Anyway, I just bought an FSA from one of the discount internet places, and there were no washers (no box or hardware of any kind.. must have been OEM).
Do I need to scrounge up some washers? Does it make a difference? Should I just use the ones that came with the Energy?
I've always got away without them, but if the crank came with them I would use them. They slow down the rate at which the pedal chews the crank, but won't eliminate it completely.
