panniers verses trailers

[denisegoldberg]

I've traveled with both - my first tours were with panniers, but after I bought a Bike Friday for traveling, I switched to a trailer - since the suitcase that holds the bike on airplane voyages converts to a trailer. I have to say that for a fully loaded tour I much prefer a trailer; it doesn't change the bike handling as much as having all of the weight sitting on the bike. That said, depending on where I am touring and how much gear I need, you might find me on a bike with panniers, and you might find me with my trailer.

If you're interested in my reasoning, I've 'published' an article - http://PanniersOrTrailer.crazyguyonabike.com - that describes my choices, including the reasoning behind them.

 

[slade_clyde]

Depends on the load weight and bulk of your camping equipment.

I carry 55lbs and more going through remote areas.

Panniers cause problems with handling and bike failures. Your bike wheels, frame and fork will suffer more wear and tear hitting pot holes and etc.

On single track use a BOB trailer and if your load is more than the 45lb load limit of the BOB then use panniers with the BOB.

On paved roads or wide hard packed roads use a Burley Nomad trailer. If your load is more than the 100lb load limit of the Burley then use panniers with the Burley.

My panniers are packed away in the garage and I traded my BOB trailer in to get the Burley Nomad trailer 10,000 miles ago. Sometimes I forget the trailer is behind me and I might bump the curb or let a wheel go off the road and luckily I haven't wrecked yet. But it's sure nice when my bike rides and handles so easily that I forget it's behind me.

Parking my bike and trailer is a no-brainer. I can use a kickstand or lay my bike down on it's left side and the trailer hitch will rotate keeping the trailer flat. When you pick up your bike your not lifting the trailer weight.

I can disconnect the trailer and pull it like a wagon to get into or through areas you can't ride through.

Hope this helps.

 

[wb6hii]

One thing that seems untouched is the difference in wheelsets for panniers or trailers.

It seems by offloading at least 50% of the load from the bike frame, it's not as critical to have a real touring wheelset. You could (?) get by with road wheels and 25 or 28c tires.

Adding 30% of 70lbs (21lbs) is probably within the weight addition limits to my rear wheel as I'm 165 now.

That's what makes pulling a trailer a very attractive option for me. Still considering what to do.

Comments?

I toured the Oregon coast last summer on my LeMond Buenos Ares road bike complete with the Bontrager Select lightweight road wheels using a BOB trailer loaded with about 40 pounds of gear. I also used a handlebar pack for carrying the items I wanted to have fast and easy access to. I must admit that I was apprehensive about using those rims even with the trailer, but I experienced no problems in 400 miles of travel. I did, however, carry spare spokes and the appropriate tools along just in case! I used a 28c tire in the rear, but kept the 25c in the front.

One of the things I did notice however was how much the bike's frame would flex during abrupt manouvers, that I did have to get used to.

If you want to read more of my comments on the BOB see my journal at www.orcoast2004.crazyguyonabike.com

Great place to keep an ongoing journal of your adventures.

Hope this was of some help.

Richard

 

[abysmal1]

Are there panniers and racks that would not break spokes? I have never used them before but now reading a few posts from here - it is mention that they break spokes, is this common. I have the Trek yr 2005 mo del 520 and plan a trip this summer, but really concerned about the hassle of broken spokes???
Thank you

 

[EmmCeeBee]

The issue is the added weight on the wheels, not the design of the rack/panniers. (Well, I'm sure there are some designs that aren't rugged enough to stay out of your spokes...)

A typical touring load might be between 30 and 80 lbs. The rear wheels end up carrying the most weight, both the rider and the bulk of the pannier weight. The added weight takes it toll on spokes.

The best defense is to get well-built 36-spoke wheels. The extra spokes distribute the weight, and even though a broken spoke is still inevitable, a 36 can still be ridden without killer wobble.

-- Mark

 

[abysmal1]

The issue is the added weight on the wheels, not the design of the rack/panniers. (Well, I'm sure there are some designs that aren't rugged enough to stay out of your spokes...)

A typical touring load might be between 30 and 80 lbs. The rear wheels end up carrying the most weight, both the rider and the bulk of the pannier weight. The added weight takes it toll on spokes.

The best defense is to get well-built 36-spoke wheels. The extra spokes distribute the weight, and even though a broken spoke is still inevitable, a 36 can still be ridden without killer wobble.

-- Mark

The Trek 520 touring bike comes with bigger wheels, if you will as oppose to a road bike.
With that said, since I am not going to use camping facilities, and my accomodations will strictly be Bed & Breakfast plus Motels, and I am only going to carry max wt on the rear of approx. 15 to 18 lbs, and maybe 6lbs front. My wt is 148, I am relatively new at touring, so this is why I am asking these questions. With the stats that I have given you and from your experience do you think that there still is a possibility of breaking a spoke??

 

[wb6hii]

The Trek 520 touring bike comes with bigger wheels, if you will as oppose to a road bike.
With that said, since I am not going to use camping facilities, and my accomodations will strictly be Bed & Breakfast plus Motels, and I am only going to carry max wt on the rear of approx. 15 to 18 lbs, and maybe 6lbs front. My wt is 148, I am relatively new at touring, so this is why I am asking these questions. With the stats that I have given you and from your experience do you think that there still is a possibility of breaking a spoke??

There's always a possibility, even without a load. It would be wise to carry extra spokes with you, as well as the appropriate tools and know how to replace one if it does let loose. The annoying thing is, it's almost always a spoke on the cassette side of the rear wheel that breaks, the hardest ones to replace. But, it's not the end of the world if one does break as long as you've received even minimal instruction on replacement and can tension it properly.

Heck, consider it as part of your touring adventure!

By the way, you can find "spoke in a bottle" temporary repair kits at bike shops now. These consist of a very strong string and fixtures to attach it to your broken spoke. I carry one with me, but have not had the chance to try it out yet, so I can't recommend them from experience. They do appear easy to use, easier than actually replaceing a spoke on the cassette side of the wheel. But, it IS temporary.