Quoted post said:Originally Posted by hrumpole [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
First, in the paceline (just before entering OTBistan), one of the more seasoned riders suggested I dropped two gears and raised the resistance, and slowed my cadence down. I had thought that power is power and it doesn't matter. Is that true? Should I be training @ FTP at a lower cadence? (When trying to keep up with the paceline, I try to stay between 95-105. SImilarly, with the compact, I don't have to have my cadence drop below 90 on most of the hills around here.).
Second, there's a (significant) wobble in my pedal stroke that it was suggested that rollers would smooth out and I'd get power back. Rollers are out of the question; I have a trainer and the wife has just about hit her limit on cycling expenditures. I've heard it described as "choppy" by another one of my riding buddies (who can smoke me). How do you drill form on a trainer? Slow the intervals down? Or is it simply a flexibility problem that can't be addressed while on the bike?
Quoted post said:Originally Posted by hrumpole [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG] The wobble is caused, I think, by excessive tightness/weakness in the hips that I'm working on through foam roller, yoga, strength training, etc. I wondered whether that could be helped through riding drills; perhaps, but it seems unlikely. When I lift my leg up, the tightness in the hip/adductor just brings it to the side. I'm not sure that's something that rollers could fix. (there is plenty of float in the cleats, thankfully).
From these two posts, I think you may have a couple of misunderstandings about the stroke. As Dave said in an earlier post, there is no "correct" cadence for any rider. However, I think each of us has an "efficient" cadence. Here's a way to find your efficient cadence. Find a long, flat road section where you can ride at a constant power = constant speed. Start off in a big gear = low cadence (e.g., 60) and gradually work through your gears until your cadence is well over 100 (e.g., 110). Then, work your way back through the gears to your original cadence. Try not to look at your cadence. Just pay attention to how you feel, especially your legs. By definition, if you hold a constant speed on a constant grade and work through your gears, the only thing that is changing is cadence. Power should be constant. You should find that you feel most comfortable at a certain cadence or within a narrow range. By comfortable, I mean that you feel you are expending the least effort. This should hold true when you progress from low to high and from high to low. Once you find your best number, try the test on an upgrade and a downgrade. I think you will find that you have the same or very similar "best" cadence whether it's on the flat, uphill or downhill.
Your second post above suggests that you think you should be pulling up on the upstroke. This is a common cycling myth, probably created by Greg LeMond talking about scraping mud (or something else) off the bottom of his shoe when he pulls through the bottom. People talk about pedaling in circles, pulling through on the bottom, pulling up on the upstroke, pushing over the top, etc. All of these references suggest an objective of applying torque throughout the stroke. The reality is that the best cyclists do not pull up or even pull through at the bottom. They create virtually all their power on the downstroke (e.g., 90+%). It's no big deal if you subconsciously pull up slightly on the upstroke, but you don't want to be consciously attempting to create power throughout the stroke. Chances are that if you just relax your leg on the upstroke that you might get rid of your wobble unless somehow you're pushing your knee out on the downstroke. Greg LeMond was a good cyclist, but on this point he's just plain wrong.