OT: water in the bottom bracket

Pat said:

I just wanted to warn any "low carbing" cyclists out there about how easily
water can get into the bottom bracket. I was on a charity ride last Saturday
and got caught in the rain for two hours. On Sunday, I took the crank off
and the bottom bracket out and poured out about a half a cup of water.
Then, I tilted the rear wheel up and a couple of more ounces of water poured
out of the chainstays.

No, I didn't cross any bodies of water higher than the bottom bracket or the
hubs. Evidently, the rain hits the seat post and runs down it and collects
in the bottom bracket.

I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. I took the seat post off ,
wiped everything down, and brought the bike indoors (humidity outdoors was
still 99 %+, so I thought it might dry faster indoors).

Pat in TX

I think you can also get water in the bottom bracket from condensation.

brigid

: I think you can also get water in the bottom bracket from condensation.
:
: brigid

If that is true, wouldn't it be elsewhere as well....like in the headset or
the handlebars? What would make the bottom bracket more likely to be wet?
(not arguing, just trying to follow your logic)

Pat in TX

Pat said:

brigid wrote:

: I think you can also get water in the bottom bracket from condensation.

If that is true, wouldn't it be elsewhere as well....like in the headset or
the handlebars? What would make the bottom bracket more likely to be wet?
(not arguing, just trying to follow your logic)

Water condenses on cold surfaces, like the entire bike
in the arage at night. Liquid water flows down hill.
Handlebars don't have much down to them, and the ones
that do curve down aren't well sealed at the bottom.

Condensation happens inside the frame as well for the
same reasons, but the opening for the pedals isn't
sealed well enough for water to build up.

:
: Water condenses on cold surfaces, like the entire bike
: in the garage at night. Liquid water flows down hill.
: Handlebars don't have much down to them, and the ones
: that do curve down aren't well sealed at the bottom.
:
: Condensation happens inside the frame as well for the
: same reasons, but the opening for the pedals isn't
: sealed well enough for water to build up.

Well! That supports my belief that bicycles belong in the dining room!

But, I don't have to worry about the garage being cold, either. This is,
after all, Texas.

Pat

:

Pat said:

: I think you can also get water in the bottom bracket from condensation.
:
: brigid

If that is true, wouldn't it be elsewhere as well....like in the headset or
the handlebars? What would make the bottom bracket more likely to be wet?
(not arguing, just trying to follow your logic)

Pat in TX

I was once a bike mechanic who specialized in the restoration of 50's
and 60's english three speeds. The bottom bracket does not have an
outlet, per se. Any condensation from the headset or the seatpost would
run with gravity down to the bottom bracket where it can pool up - The
bottom bracket is the part of the frame that is closest to the ground,
and last I looked, water didn't run uphill.

brigid

: >
: >
: I was once a bike mechanic who specialized in the restoration of 50's
: and 60's english three speeds. The bottom bracket does not have an
: outlet, per se. Any condensation from the headset or the seatpost would
: run with gravity down to the bottom bracket where it can pool up - The
: bottom bracket is the part of the frame that is closest to the ground,
: and last I looked, water didn't run uphill.
:
: brigid

Hey, isn't that a coincidence! I have a 1964 Schwinn 2-speed (Bendix hub)
which I have started to restore. I have it all taken apart--well, except for
that rear hub. It kinda scares me. I have a digital camera, though, as a
backup plan.

Here's something strange--I talked to a guy who was in the rain on the same
ride, and he claims NO water got in his bike! He has an Orbea aluminum bike,
but, really----"no" water?

Anyway, it brings up the discussion about drilling holes in the bottom
bracket....to drill or not to drill, that is the question!

Pat in TX

Pat said:

Hey, isn't that a coincidence! I have a 1964 Schwinn 2-speed (Bendix hub)
which I have started to restore. I have it all taken apart--well, except for
that rear hub. It kinda scares me. I have a digital camera, though, as a
backup plan.

Here's something strange--I talked to a guy who was in the rain on the same
ride, and he claims NO water got in his bike! He has an Orbea aluminum bike,
but, really----"no" water?

Anyway, it brings up the discussion about drilling holes in the bottom
bracket....to drill or not to drill, that is the question!

Pat in TX

No, don't drill into the bottom bracket. There are bearings in there,
and you don't want grit to get in. A little condensation isn't the end
of the world. If it's a bigger problem, overhaul the headset and check
for leaks in the seatpost. This is assuming that the crank arm
assemblies are correctly in place.

The best book if you want to see step by step how to take apart your hub
- and get it back together - is Glen's New Complete:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?C33A5203B

I worked on a couple of bendix hubs and a few one speed coasters too.
They were a pain in the butt, and I would never dream of opening one
without that book in front of me. Sturmey Archer three-speed hubs, on
the other hand, were gifts from God.

brigd

: The best book if you want to see step by step how to take apart your hub
: - and get it back together - is Glen's New Complete:
: http://makeashorterlink.com/?C33A5203B
:
: I worked on a couple of bendix hubs and a few one speed coasters too.
: They were a pain in the butt, and I would never dream of opening one
: without that book in front of me. Sturmey Archer three-speed hubs, on
: the other hand, were gifts from God.
:
: brigd

Thanks for the link. It is amazing that in his book he would show how to
work on a 1964 two speed gearing set-up with coaster brake. I was able to
get a schematic today from the original Schwinn shop manual. Still, I think
I would get the book you recommended as well. Can't ever have too many
books!

You still ride, don't you? Where are you located?

I don't mind taking apart the bottom bracket and pulling the crank, now that
I know how to do it and have the tools. I used Phil Woods grease. I rode it
32 miles today and everything worked smoothly. It went beyond "condensation"
though. There must have been 6 ounces of water in there when I added on the
extra that poured out of the chain stays. I did talk to another guy who was
on the ride and when I asked him if he had any water in his bottom bracket,
he looked like a deer caught in the headlights! I sure hope he takes that
bike to the shop. He said he just started riding in April. Brand new bike.
Oh well, maybe I helped him out a bit.

Pat in TX

Pat said:

: The best book if you want to see step by step how to take apart your hub
: - and get it back together - is Glen's New Complete:
: http://makeashorterlink.com/?C33A5203B
:
: I worked on a couple of bendix hubs and a few one speed coasters too.
: They were a pain in the butt, and I would never dream of opening one
: without that book in front of me. Sturmey Archer three-speed hubs, on
: the other hand, were gifts from God.
:
: brigd

Thanks for the link. It is amazing that in his book he would show how to
work on a 1964 two speed gearing set-up with coaster brake. I was able to
get a schematic today from the original Schwinn shop manual. Still, I think
I would get the book you recommended as well. Can't ever have too many
books!

You still ride, don't you? Where are you located?

I don't mind taking apart the bottom bracket and pulling the crank, now that
I know how to do it and have the tools. I used Phil Woods grease. I rode it
32 miles today and everything worked smoothly. It went beyond "condensation"
though. There must have been 6 ounces of water in there when I added on the
extra that poured out of the chain stays. I did talk to another guy who was
on the ride and when I asked him if he had any water in his bottom bracket,
he looked like a deer caught in the headlights! I sure hope he takes that
bike to the shop. He said he just started riding in April. Brand new bike.
Oh well, maybe I helped him out a bit.

Pat in TX

I haven't ridden in a while but that will change very soon. We're
downsizing from two cars to one and I will be buying a new bike with
some of this year's tax return. My old three speed has a tacoed wheel
that can't be replaced without replacing the hub shell (it's an old '54
hub with 40 spoke holes) someone should just buy me a Mustang already
because I'm that obsessive about it. It's a little too heavy for regular
lifting as well, so it will all work out in the end.

In the meantime I've become the bane of the local bike shops with my
insistance that a Shimano three-speed hub can't possibly compare in
quality to the Sturmey Archer (it's not *just* a religion, really).
Apparently the Shimanos are better than they used to be but I just don't
know if I can do it. Their 7 speed hubs do look pretty kosher from what
I've seen in the repair manuals - isn't it nice that they let me look at
all that stuff, the economy must be affecting them in a big way - and
they have an updated dyno-hub for the front lighting.

I live in Portland, and will be commuting to downtown on my bike again
this fall. I've only had a driver's license for 10 years (I'm 40) so
I'm experienced, but I haven't ridden regularly during those 10 years.
I'm excited about it, but I don't know if I'm going to go to the trouble
of doing my own overhauls. There is a local co-op where you can rent
space which makes it nice if you can't afford all the tools.

brigid

Ah well, you never forget how to ride a bike. You'll do fine. Just remember
one thing:

GORE-TEX