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OT: wanted 23.4 or 24mm seatpost

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Road Cycling
Published
24 August 2006
Last activity
25 August 2006
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Keiron
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  1. Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .

    I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
    reasonable/nominal 'reward'.

    thanks

  2. Keiron said:

    Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .

    I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
    reasonable/nominal 'reward'.

    thanks

    Dear Keiron,

    Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  3. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Keiron said:

    Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .

    I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
    reasonable/nominal 'reward'.

    thanks

    Dear Keiron,

    Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    Hi Carl,

    I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
    pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a futher
    look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a method to make
    a custom shim which is safe?

  4. Keiron said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?

    I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
    pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a futher
    look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a method to make
    a custom shim which is safe?

    It should be possible to get a 22.2 mm BMX seatpost and shim it to 24
    mm. That is a difference of 1.8 mm in diameter or 0.9 mm in radius.
    0.9 mm is 0.0354 inches. I have seen 0.032 inch steel shim stock on
    the web for sale for just a couple of bucks. The difference, 0.0034
    inches, is 0.087 mm. Multiply by two, since we are talking about
    diameter, to get 0.174 mm.

    I'm not 100% sure but it seems to me that you seat post clamp should be
    able to make up that difference.

    This is one link for steel shim stock (I Googled "shim stock"😉.

    http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/shss.cfm

    Hope this helps,
    Tom

  5. Keiron said:


    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Keiron said:

    Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .

    I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
    reasonable/nominal 'reward'.

    thanks

    Dear Keiron,

    Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    Hi Carl,

    I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
    pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a futher
    look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a method to make
    a custom shim which is safe?

    Dear Keiron,

    Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065

    There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
    They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
    posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=312&type=T

    That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  6. [email hidden] <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    It should be possible to get a 22.2 mm BMX seatpost and shim it to 24
    mm. That is a difference of 1.8 mm in diameter or 0.9 mm in radius.
    0.9 mm is 0.0354 inches. I have seen 0.032 inch steel shim stock on
    the web for sale for just a couple of bucks. The difference, 0.0034
    inches, is 0.087 mm. Multiply by two, since we are talking about
    diameter, to get 0.174 mm.

    I'm not 100% sure but it seems to me that you seat post clamp should be
    able to make up that difference.

    Hi Tom, I see your logic but i'm not entirely sure either, i just don't
    know how accurate these things have to be especially in a load bearing
    capacity: in this case a fair proportion or 19 stone (quite a weighty
    cyclist). i think it'll certainly be worth the experiment seeing as my
    seatpost turnover is relatively high. I'm a little confused about the link
    tho. i'm not sure what i'm 'looking' at. presumably a shim in engineering is
    like a bushing, washer or spacer of some description??? will these list
    shims have the appropriate lip to sit on top of the seat tube so it [the
    shim] won't slip down or will i have to fashion it? Are they even in
    cylinder format? if not, would it just be a case of wrapping the sheet
    around the post? any ideas?

    cheers.

  7. <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    Dear Keiron,

    Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065

    There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
    They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
    posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:


    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
    12&type=T

    Quoted message said:


    That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    Hi again Carl.
    I couldn't access the rest of the range at harriscyclery for some reason,
    will try again later. I have found this tho, at a unicycle shop strangely
    (?)
    http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590
    with somthing like this i'll be able to get away without purchasing a new
    saddle, i'll see if harris/sheldons has somthing similar.
    Excellent point about the shims, it hadn't occured to me i'd have to trim
    them where the split is, i had imagined sanding the entire surface, but in
    retrospect that wouldn't have worked without trimming anyway. just a thought
    tho, if a shim should have a specific diameter but it's made smaller by
    trimming, will the shim snap/crack at the 'back'/at 180 degrees from the
    split as it will be producing a smaller diameter than was originally
    intended? that said i've only ever used a plastic shims do the metal shims
    bend without cracking?. Perhaps cutting the shim in to multiple stips and
    arranging around the seatpost would reduce the chances of the shim breaking
    while riding? although i guess i might have to tape the bottom ends of the
    shim to the post? Are metal shims more malleable like tinfoil or more
    brittle/rigid like a cheap spoon?

    Thanks both for your ideas, shim seems only sensible solution. i'll
    experiment and report back.

    Many Thanks

    Keiron

  8. Quoted message said:

    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    I note that the slit is already as long (or per-haps
    longer) than the shim. Should I cut into my leg or
    would waving the hacksaw over my head a few
    times suffice?

  9. Franklin <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    I note that the slit is already as long (or per-haps
    longer) than the shim. Should I cut into my leg or
    would waving the hacksaw over my head a few
    times suffice?

    Oh you! Donnish and drole! By the same logic, you'd either be sawing on
    your knee, silly, or extending the slit such a distance beyond the already
    abstractly extended slit, which is clearly more silly than cutting said
    slit. (?) 😉

  10. Keiron said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    Dear Keiron,

    Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065

    There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
    They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
    posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:


    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
    12&type=T

    Quoted message said:


    That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    Hi again Carl.
    I couldn't access the rest of the range at harriscyclery for some reason,
    will try again later. I have found this tho, at a unicycle shop strangely
    (?)
    http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590
    with somthing like this i'll be able to get away without purchasing a new
    saddle, i'll see if harris/sheldons has somthing similar.
    Excellent point about the shims, it hadn't occured to me i'd have to trim
    them where the split is, i had imagined sanding the entire surface, but in
    retrospect that wouldn't have worked without trimming anyway. just a thought
    tho, if a shim should have a specific diameter but it's made smaller by
    trimming, will the shim snap/crack at the 'back'/at 180 degrees from the
    split as it will be producing a smaller diameter than was originally
    intended? that said i've only ever used a plastic shims do the metal shims
    bend without cracking?. Perhaps cutting the shim in to multiple stips and
    arranging around the seatpost would reduce the chances of the shim breaking
    while riding? although i guess i might have to tape the bottom ends of the
    shim to the post? Are metal shims more malleable like tinfoil or more
    brittle/rigid like a cheap spoon?

    Thanks both for your ideas, shim seems only sensible solution. i'll
    experiment and report back.

    Many Thanks

    Keiron

    a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.

    RC

  11. Keiron said:


    Franklin <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    I note that the slit is already as long (or per-haps
    longer) than the shim. Should I cut into my leg or
    would waving the hacksaw over my head a few
    times suffice?

    Oh you! Donnish and drole! By the same logic, you'd either be sawing on
    your knee, silly, or extending the slit such a distance beyond the already
    abstractly extended slit, which is clearly more silly than cutting said
    slit. (?) 😉

    Dear Keiron,

    Actually, the point is to enlarge the slit, meaning to make it larger,
    since the shim is designed to be stuffed into wider hole.

    Your narrower seat post may require an enlarged slit in the shim
    because the two edges will move toward each other as you squeeze it to
    try to stuff it into the narrower-than-expected hole.

    If removing a thin strip of metal from the shim is daunting or
    perplexing, then you should probably look for a seat post that fits
    exactly.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  12. Keiron said:


    <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    Dear Keiron,

    Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065

    There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
    They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
    posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:


    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
    12&type=T

    Quoted message said:


    That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
    and enlarge the lengthwise slit.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    Hi again Carl.
    I couldn't access the rest of the range at harriscyclery for some reason,
    will try again later. I have found this tho, at a unicycle shop strangely
    (?)
    http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590
    with somthing like this i'll be able to get away without purchasing a new
    saddle, i'll see if harris/sheldons has somthing similar.
    Excellent point about the shims, it hadn't occured to me i'd have to trim
    them where the split is, i had imagined sanding the entire surface, but in
    retrospect that wouldn't have worked without trimming anyway. just a thought
    tho, if a shim should have a specific diameter but it's made smaller by
    trimming, will the shim snap/crack at the 'back'/at 180 degrees from the
    split as it will be producing a smaller diameter than was originally
    intended? that said i've only ever used a plastic shims do the metal shims
    bend without cracking?. Perhaps cutting the shim in to multiple stips and
    arranging around the seatpost would reduce the chances of the shim breaking
    while riding? although i guess i might have to tape the bottom ends of the
    shim to the post? Are metal shims more malleable like tinfoil or more
    brittle/rigid like a cheap spoon?

    Thanks both for your ideas, shim seems only sensible solution. i'll
    experiment and report back.

    Many Thanks

    Keiron

    Dear Keiron,

    Probably the reasons that you can't access the address in my post is
    that your newsreader or browser is breaking the url into two separate
    lines:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
    12&type=T

    instead of one long line:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=312&type=T

    If the two examples above are identical, with two lines, then that's
    the problem--your newsreader or browser is breaking off the
    "12&type=t" at the end of the url.

    To deal with url's longer than your browser, you must either cut and
    paste each portion into your go-to-this-address window, find a better
    browser, or rely on everyone remembering to spoon-feed you shorter
    addresses:

    http://tinyurl.com/h38a5

    Experiment a little with www.tinyurl.com and look at the post in
    Google Groups to see if that helps explain what went wrong.

    Here's the Google Groups address for the post that you had trouble
    with:

    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/99fc89a0fcfbad3f
    or http://tinyurl.com/gzujo

    Notice that the long url shows with a ... in the original and can be
    clicked on.

    Here's your post, where your browser or newsreader broke the url into
    separate lines, ruining it:

    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/336a0a07ec939fcd
    or http://tinyurl.com/hzorl

    Notice that the long url is on two lines, and only the first line is
    clickable--a partial and useless address.

    You should be able to see a wide range of shims of different diameters
    and wall thicknesses, all with complete lengthwise slits.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  13. in message <[email hidden]>, Keiron

    (') said:


    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Keiron said:

    Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace)
    .

    I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
    reasonable/nominal 'reward'.

    Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?

    I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
    pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a
    futher look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a
    method to make a custom shim which is safe?

    Zen master use coke can. But maybe only for motorcycle maintenance.

    [fx: bows poritery, exits to sound of one hand crapping]

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ' ' <------- this blank intentionally spaced left


  14. Quoted message said:

    Dear Keiron,

    Actually, the point is to enlarge the slit, meaning to make it larger,
    since the shim is designed to be stuffed into wider hole.

    Your narrower seat post may require an enlarged slit in the shim
    because the two edges will move toward each other as you squeeze it to
    try to stuff it into the narrower-than-expected hole.

    If removing a thin strip of metal from the shim is daunting or
    perplexing, then you should probably look for a seat post that fits
    exactly.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    I understand, i was just concerned this would change the shape too much,
    oval rather than circular and then crack under the pressure of the seat
    clamp? is this a likely or will the shim be elastic enough to cope?

  15. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Keiron

    a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.

    RC

    sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the metal
    not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?

  16. Keiron said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Keiron

    a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.

    RC

    sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the metal
    not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?

    bend the part sticking out so it doesn't slip down tube when loose.

    shouldn't slip when tightened

    light grease.

  17. in message <[email hidden]>, Keiron

    (') said:
    Quoted message said:

    a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.

    sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the
    metal not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?

    Seriously and joking apart, coke cans make excellent shim stock for
    shimming small clearances - they're made of very thin and very uniform
    aluminium. If using coke can stock to shim a seatpost (or handlebar or
    whatever else), yes, you should use grease, otherwise sooner or later
    you're going to have a seized seatpost which is /extremely/ unfunny to
    remove; also, ungreased seatposts are notorious for creaking. If the
    clamping pressure is great enough the seatpost won't slip.

    However, it won't work in your situation because the clearance you have
    to shim is too great.

    The other potential problem with shimming a seatpost is losing a shim
    down inside a double butted seat tube - that too is very difficult to
    get out. But if you're reasonably careful it won't happen.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    'Victories are not solutions.'
    ;; John Hume, Northern Irish politician, on Radio Scotland 1/2/95
    ;; Nobel Peace Prize laureate 1998; few have deserved it so much

  18. Simon Brooke said:

    in message <[email hidden]>, Keiron

    (') said:
    Quoted message said:

    a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.

    sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the
    metal not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?

    Seriously and joking apart, coke cans make excellent shim stock for
    shimming small clearances - they're made of very thin and very uniform
    aluminium. If using coke can stock to shim a seatpost (or handlebar or
    whatever else), yes, you should use grease, otherwise sooner or later
    you're going to have a seized seatpost which is /extremely/ unfunny to
    remove; also, ungreased seatposts are notorious for creaking. If the
    clamping pressure is great enough the seatpost won't slip.

    However, it won't work in your situation because the clearance you have
    to shim is too great.

    The other potential problem with shimming a seatpost is losing a shim
    down inside a double butted seat tube - that too is very difficult to
    get out. But if you're reasonably careful it won't happen.

    Dear Simon,

    The top end of a Problem Solvers seatpost shim has a small flare or
    lip to prevent it from dropping into the tube. Here's the one in
    question, with a picture showing the lip:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=ST0518

    And here's the rest of the crowd at $10.95:

    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=312&type=T

    The 6.2 mm shim (3.1 mm thick) on the second page has six times as
    much metal as the 1.0 mm shim (0.5 mm thick), but the cost of the
    metal is insignificant.

    The lip and the precise thicknesses for specific uses (25.4 to 26.8
    and so forth) are why the Problem Solvers shims all sell for the same
    $10.95--you're paying for the right fit.

    Unfortunately, they don't make a 22.2 x anything shim.

    Keiron may be able to stuff a 25.4 x 27.2 shim into his 24.0 seat tube
    and then use a 22.2 (7/8) bmx seatpost.

    The shim thickness should be right, and the 0.9mm thick circular shim
    wall may flex enough to work. He might have to enlarge the lengthwise
    slit, since the edges will be squeezed closer together than intended.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  19. Keiron said:


    Quoted message said:

    Dear Keiron,

    Actually, the point is to enlarge the slit, meaning to make it larger,
    since the shim is designed to be stuffed into wider hole.

    Your narrower seat post may require an enlarged slit in the shim
    because the two edges will move toward each other as you squeeze it to
    try to stuff it into the narrower-than-expected hole.

    If removing a thin strip of metal from the shim is daunting or
    perplexing, then you should probably look for a seat post that fits
    exactly.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    I understand, i was just concerned this would change the shape too much,
    oval rather than circular and then crack under the pressure of the seat
    clamp? is this a likely or will the shim be elastic enough to cope?

    Dear Keiron,

    I'm afraid that the only way to tell for sure involves $10.95 plus
    shipping.

    But you could email Sheldon at Harris before buying from his shop and
    ask his opinion of my hare-brained scheme.

    The roof fell in recently on his Red Sox (sorry, can't resist a Big
    Dig at Boston), so he may not want to recommend Yankee ingenuity.

    More seriously, if Sheldon thinks it's a bad idea, he'll tell you why,
    and I'd listen to him.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  20. in message <[email hidden]>,

    (') said:

    Unfortunately, they don't make a 22.2 x anything shim.

    Keiron may be able to stuff a 25.4 x 27.2 shim into his 24.0 seat tube
    and then use a 22.2 (7/8) bmx seatpost.

    The shim thickness should be right, and the 0.9mm thick circular shim
    wall may flex enough to work. He might have to enlarge the lengthwise
    slit, since the edges will be squeezed closer together than intended.

    I would certainly try that, it seems likely to me that it would work.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; When all else fails, read the distractions.

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