Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .
I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
reasonable/nominal 'reward'.
thanks
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Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .
I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
reasonable/nominal 'reward'.
thanks
Keiron said:Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .
I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
reasonable/nominal 'reward'.thanks
Dear Keiron,
Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:Keiron said:Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .
I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
reasonable/nominal 'reward'.thanks
Dear Keiron,
Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Hi Carl,
I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a futher
look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a method to make
a custom shim which is safe?
Keiron said:<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?
I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a futher
look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a method to make
a custom shim which is safe?
It should be possible to get a 22.2 mm BMX seatpost and shim it to 24
mm. That is a difference of 1.8 mm in diameter or 0.9 mm in radius.
0.9 mm is 0.0354 inches. I have seen 0.032 inch steel shim stock on
the web for sale for just a couple of bucks. The difference, 0.0034
inches, is 0.087 mm. Multiply by two, since we are talking about
diameter, to get 0.174 mm.
I'm not 100% sure but it seems to me that you seat post clamp should be
able to make up that difference.
This is one link for steel shim stock (I Googled "shim stock"😉.
http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/shss.cfm
Hope this helps,
Tom
Keiron said:
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:Keiron said:Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace) .
I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
reasonable/nominal 'reward'.thanks
Dear Keiron,
Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Hi Carl,
I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a futher
look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a method to make
a custom shim which is safe?
Dear Keiron,
Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065
There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=312&type=T
That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
and enlarge the lengthwise slit.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
[email hidden] <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:It should be possible to get a 22.2 mm BMX seatpost and shim it to 24
mm. That is a difference of 1.8 mm in diameter or 0.9 mm in radius.
0.9 mm is 0.0354 inches. I have seen 0.032 inch steel shim stock on
the web for sale for just a couple of bucks. The difference, 0.0034
inches, is 0.087 mm. Multiply by two, since we are talking about
diameter, to get 0.174 mm.I'm not 100% sure but it seems to me that you seat post clamp should be
able to make up that difference.
Hi Tom, I see your logic but i'm not entirely sure either, i just don't
know how accurate these things have to be especially in a load bearing
capacity: in this case a fair proportion or 19 stone (quite a weighty
cyclist). i think it'll certainly be worth the experiment seeing as my
seatpost turnover is relatively high. I'm a little confused about the link
tho. i'm not sure what i'm 'looking' at. presumably a shim in engineering is
like a bushing, washer or spacer of some description??? will these list
shims have the appropriate lip to sit on top of the seat tube so it [the
shim] won't slip down or will i have to fashion it? Are they even in
cylinder format? if not, would it just be a case of wrapping the sheet
around the post? any ideas?
cheers.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
Quoted message said:
Dear Keiron,Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065
There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
12&type=T
Quoted message said:
That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
and enlarge the lengthwise slit.Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Hi again Carl.
I couldn't access the rest of the range at harriscyclery for some reason,
will try again later. I have found this tho, at a unicycle shop strangely
(?)
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590
with somthing like this i'll be able to get away without purchasing a new
saddle, i'll see if harris/sheldons has somthing similar.
Excellent point about the shims, it hadn't occured to me i'd have to trim
them where the split is, i had imagined sanding the entire surface, but in
retrospect that wouldn't have worked without trimming anyway. just a thought
tho, if a shim should have a specific diameter but it's made smaller by
trimming, will the shim snap/crack at the 'back'/at 180 degrees from the
split as it will be producing a smaller diameter than was originally
intended? that said i've only ever used a plastic shims do the metal shims
bend without cracking?. Perhaps cutting the shim in to multiple stips and
arranging around the seatpost would reduce the chances of the shim breaking
while riding? although i guess i might have to tape the bottom ends of the
shim to the post? Are metal shims more malleable like tinfoil or more
brittle/rigid like a cheap spoon?
Thanks both for your ideas, shim seems only sensible solution. i'll
experiment and report back.
Many Thanks
Keiron
Quoted message said:and enlarge the lengthwise slit.
I note that the slit is already as long (or per-haps
longer) than the shim. Should I cut into my leg or
would waving the hacksaw over my head a few
times suffice?
Franklin <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:and enlarge the lengthwise slit.
I note that the slit is already as long (or per-haps
longer) than the shim. Should I cut into my leg or
would waving the hacksaw over my head a few
times suffice?
Oh you! Donnish and drole! By the same logic, you'd either be sawing on
your knee, silly, or extending the slit such a distance beyond the already
abstractly extended slit, which is clearly more silly than cutting said
slit. (?) 😉
Keiron said:<[email hidden]> wrote in message
Quoted message said:
Dear Keiron,Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065
There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
12&type=TQuoted message said:
That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
and enlarge the lengthwise slit.Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Hi again Carl.
I couldn't access the rest of the range at harriscyclery for some reason,
will try again later. I have found this tho, at a unicycle shop strangely
(?)
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590
with somthing like this i'll be able to get away without purchasing a new
saddle, i'll see if harris/sheldons has somthing similar.
Excellent point about the shims, it hadn't occured to me i'd have to trim
them where the split is, i had imagined sanding the entire surface, but in
retrospect that wouldn't have worked without trimming anyway. just a thought
tho, if a shim should have a specific diameter but it's made smaller by
trimming, will the shim snap/crack at the 'back'/at 180 degrees from the
split as it will be producing a smaller diameter than was originally
intended? that said i've only ever used a plastic shims do the metal shims
bend without cracking?. Perhaps cutting the shim in to multiple stips and
arranging around the seatpost would reduce the chances of the shim breaking
while riding? although i guess i might have to tape the bottom ends of the
shim to the post? Are metal shims more malleable like tinfoil or more
brittle/rigid like a cheap spoon?Thanks both for your ideas, shim seems only sensible solution. i'll
experiment and report back.Many Thanks
Keiron
a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.
RC
Keiron said:
Franklin <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:Quoted message said:and enlarge the lengthwise slit.
I note that the slit is already as long (or per-haps
longer) than the shim. Should I cut into my leg or
would waving the hacksaw over my head a few
times suffice?Oh you! Donnish and drole! By the same logic, you'd either be sawing on
your knee, silly, or extending the slit such a distance beyond the already
abstractly extended slit, which is clearly more silly than cutting said
slit. (?) 😉
Dear Keiron,
Actually, the point is to enlarge the slit, meaning to make it larger,
since the shim is designed to be stuffed into wider hole.
Your narrower seat post may require an enlarged slit in the shim
because the two edges will move toward each other as you squeeze it to
try to stuff it into the narrower-than-expected hole.
If removing a thin strip of metal from the shim is daunting or
perplexing, then you should probably look for a seat post that fits
exactly.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Keiron said:
<[email hidden]> wrote in messageQuoted message said:
Dear Keiron,Sheldon and QBC offer 7/8 posts of various kinds. Here's one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SA4065
There are also shims, but I don't if any that they offer would work.
They come in 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 thickenesses for larger
posts, so you might be able to trim the 1.8 one:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
12&type=TQuoted message said:
That is, maybe you can take a 1.6 or 1.8mm shim for a 25.4. to 27.2
and enlarge the lengthwise slit.Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Hi again Carl.
I couldn't access the rest of the range at harriscyclery for some reason,
will try again later. I have found this tho, at a unicycle shop strangely
(?)
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=590
with somthing like this i'll be able to get away without purchasing a new
saddle, i'll see if harris/sheldons has somthing similar.
Excellent point about the shims, it hadn't occured to me i'd have to trim
them where the split is, i had imagined sanding the entire surface, but in
retrospect that wouldn't have worked without trimming anyway. just a thought
tho, if a shim should have a specific diameter but it's made smaller by
trimming, will the shim snap/crack at the 'back'/at 180 degrees from the
split as it will be producing a smaller diameter than was originally
intended? that said i've only ever used a plastic shims do the metal shims
bend without cracking?. Perhaps cutting the shim in to multiple stips and
arranging around the seatpost would reduce the chances of the shim breaking
while riding? although i guess i might have to tape the bottom ends of the
shim to the post? Are metal shims more malleable like tinfoil or more
brittle/rigid like a cheap spoon?Thanks both for your ideas, shim seems only sensible solution. i'll
experiment and report back.Many Thanks
Keiron
Dear Keiron,
Probably the reasons that you can't access the address in my post is
that your newsreader or browser is breaking the url into two separate
lines:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=3
12&type=T
instead of one long line:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=312&type=T
If the two examples above are identical, with two lines, then that's
the problem--your newsreader or browser is breaking off the
"12&type=t" at the end of the url.
To deal with url's longer than your browser, you must either cut and
paste each portion into your go-to-this-address window, find a better
browser, or rely on everyone remembering to spoon-feed you shorter
addresses:
Experiment a little with www.tinyurl.com and look at the post in
Google Groups to see if that helps explain what went wrong.
Here's the Google Groups address for the post that you had trouble
with:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/99fc89a0fcfbad3f
or http://tinyurl.com/gzujo
Notice that the long url shows with a ... in the original and can be
clicked on.
Here's your post, where your browser or newsreader broke the url into
separate lines, ruining it:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/336a0a07ec939fcd
or http://tinyurl.com/hzorl
Notice that the long url is on two lines, and only the first line is
clickable--a partial and useless address.
You should be able to see a wide range of shims of different diameters
and wall thicknesses, all with complete lengthwise slits.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
in message <[email hidden]>, Keiron
(') said:
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:Keiron said:Apologies for Ad (have already appealed to rec.bicycles.marketplace)
.I'm in need or a 23.4mm or 24mm seatpost. i'm willing to pay a
reasonable/nominal 'reward'.Could you shim a 22.2mm 7/8 post?
I'm not sure, i've encountered a few 22.2mm seatposts (bmx and straight
pipe) but no appropriate shims to make it up to 24mm. i'll have a
futher look for shims but if there's no commercial option is there a
method to make a custom shim which is safe?
Zen master use coke can. But maybe only for motorcycle maintenance.
[fx: bows poritery, exits to sound of one hand crapping]
--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
' ' <------- this blank intentionally spaced left
Quoted message said:Dear Keiron,
Actually, the point is to enlarge the slit, meaning to make it larger,
since the shim is designed to be stuffed into wider hole.Your narrower seat post may require an enlarged slit in the shim
because the two edges will move toward each other as you squeeze it to
try to stuff it into the narrower-than-expected hole.If removing a thin strip of metal from the shim is daunting or
perplexing, then you should probably look for a seat post that fits
exactly.Cheers,
Carl Fogel
I understand, i was just concerned this would change the shape too much,
oval rather than circular and then crack under the pressure of the seat
clamp? is this a likely or will the shim be elastic enough to cope?
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:
Keirona torn coke can works just fine as a shim.
RC
sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the metal
not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?
Keiron said:Quoted message said:Quoted message said:
Keirona torn coke can works just fine as a shim.
RC
sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the metal
not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?
bend the part sticking out so it doesn't slip down tube when loose.
shouldn't slip when tightened
light grease.
in message <[email hidden]>, Keiron
(') said:Quoted message said:a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.
sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the
metal not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?
Seriously and joking apart, coke cans make excellent shim stock for
shimming small clearances - they're made of very thin and very uniform
aluminium. If using coke can stock to shim a seatpost (or handlebar or
whatever else), yes, you should use grease, otherwise sooner or later
you're going to have a seized seatpost which is /extremely/ unfunny to
remove; also, ungreased seatposts are notorious for creaking. If the
clamping pressure is great enough the seatpost won't slip.
However, it won't work in your situation because the clearance you have
to shim is too great.
The other potential problem with shimming a seatpost is losing a shim
down inside a double butted seat tube - that too is very difficult to
get out. But if you're reasonably careful it won't happen.
--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
'Victories are not solutions.'
;; John Hume, Northern Irish politician, on Radio Scotland 1/2/95
;; Nobel Peace Prize laureate 1998; few have deserved it so much
Simon Brooke said:in message <[email hidden]>, Keiron
(') said:Quoted message said:a torn coke can works just fine as a shim.
sounds like a painful accident waiting to happen doest it? does the
metal not slip and should the seattube be greased in the usual way?Seriously and joking apart, coke cans make excellent shim stock for
shimming small clearances - they're made of very thin and very uniform
aluminium. If using coke can stock to shim a seatpost (or handlebar or
whatever else), yes, you should use grease, otherwise sooner or later
you're going to have a seized seatpost which is /extremely/ unfunny to
remove; also, ungreased seatposts are notorious for creaking. If the
clamping pressure is great enough the seatpost won't slip.However, it won't work in your situation because the clearance you have
to shim is too great.The other potential problem with shimming a seatpost is losing a shim
down inside a double butted seat tube - that too is very difficult to
get out. But if you're reasonably careful it won't happen.
Dear Simon,
The top end of a Problem Solvers seatpost shim has a small flare or
lip to prevent it from dropping into the tube. Here's the one in
question, with a picture showing the lip:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=ST0518
And here's the rest of the crowd at $10.95:
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=192&Brand=312&type=T
The 6.2 mm shim (3.1 mm thick) on the second page has six times as
much metal as the 1.0 mm shim (0.5 mm thick), but the cost of the
metal is insignificant.
The lip and the precise thicknesses for specific uses (25.4 to 26.8
and so forth) are why the Problem Solvers shims all sell for the same
$10.95--you're paying for the right fit.
Unfortunately, they don't make a 22.2 x anything shim.
Keiron may be able to stuff a 25.4 x 27.2 shim into his 24.0 seat tube
and then use a 22.2 (7/8) bmx seatpost.
The shim thickness should be right, and the 0.9mm thick circular shim
wall may flex enough to work. He might have to enlarge the lengthwise
slit, since the edges will be squeezed closer together than intended.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
Keiron said:
Quoted message said:Dear Keiron,
Actually, the point is to enlarge the slit, meaning to make it larger,
since the shim is designed to be stuffed into wider hole.Your narrower seat post may require an enlarged slit in the shim
because the two edges will move toward each other as you squeeze it to
try to stuff it into the narrower-than-expected hole.If removing a thin strip of metal from the shim is daunting or
perplexing, then you should probably look for a seat post that fits
exactly.Cheers,
Carl Fogel
I understand, i was just concerned this would change the shape too much,
oval rather than circular and then crack under the pressure of the seat
clamp? is this a likely or will the shim be elastic enough to cope?
Dear Keiron,
I'm afraid that the only way to tell for sure involves $10.95 plus
shipping.
But you could email Sheldon at Harris before buying from his shop and
ask his opinion of my hare-brained scheme.
The roof fell in recently on his Red Sox (sorry, can't resist a Big
Dig at Boston), so he may not want to recommend Yankee ingenuity.
More seriously, if Sheldon thinks it's a bad idea, he'll tell you why,
and I'd listen to him.
Cheers,
Carl Fogel
in message <[email hidden]>,
(') said:Unfortunately, they don't make a 22.2 x anything shim.
Keiron may be able to stuff a 25.4 x 27.2 shim into his 24.0 seat tube
and then use a 22.2 (7/8) bmx seatpost.The shim thickness should be right, and the 0.9mm thick circular shim
wall may flex enough to work. He might have to enlarge the lengthwise
slit, since the edges will be squeezed closer together than intended.
I would certainly try that, it seems likely to me that it would work.
--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; When all else fails, read the distractions.
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