Old Steyr 3 Speed

Doki said:

I picked up an old Steyr 3 speed, which is unfortunately painted
purple with nice rust highlights, and I'd like to spray it black.

Or even a Puch 3 speed 🙂.

On Fri, 7 May 2004 16:11:42 +0100, "Doki" <[email hidden]>

may have said:

I picked up an old Steyr 3 speed, which is unfortunately painted purple with
nice rust highlights, and I'd like to spray it black. I've sprayed enough
things to know how to actually paint it, but I don't know what to do about
the bottom bracket and headset bearings. Is it possible to take them out
easily

Yes, for certain values of the word "easily". Since you presumably
want to remove the cranks anyway, the extra work to remove the BB is
not all that much.

Quoted message said:

or can I get away with masking around them?

You might; it's a toss-up in my opinion as to which is the better
choice.

Quoted message said:

I'm planning to strip
down to bare metal with an angle grinder and wire brush attachment, so
there's liable to be a fair bit of metal dust about the place. Will it be
possible to find replacement bearings if I kill them with metal dust or have
I got to cosset them for fear of never finding spares?

Most likely, yes, from what I recall. I have a similar bike in my
collection; its BB is not exotic.

Quoted message said:

The other thing is that the seat tube seems very short compared to my
mountain bike's seat tube, and the seat will almost certainly be too low for
me whilst there's a reasonable length of tube in the clamp. Have seat posts
stayed the same over the years, or will I be looking for something odd?

Match for size and you're in good shape. Most of the Puch 3-speeds
were made for cruiser-style riding, which generally doesn't involve a
lot of seat elevation.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Doki said:

I picked up an old Steyr 3 speed, which is unfortunately painted purple with
nice rust highlights, and I'd like to spray it black. I've sprayed enough
things to know how to actually paint it, but I don't know what to do about
the bottom bracket and headset bearings. Is it possible to take them out
easily, or can I get away with masking around them? I'm planning to strip
down to bare metal with an angle grinder and wire brush attachment, so
there's liable to be a fair bit of metal dust about the place. Will it be
possible to find replacement bearings if I kill them with metal dust or have
I got to cosset them for fear of never finding spares?

The other thing is that the seat tube seems very short compared to my
mountain bike's seat tube, and the seat will almost certainly be too low for
me whilst there's a reasonable length of tube in the clamp. Have seat posts
stayed the same over the years, or will I be looking for something odd?

Neither piece is complex, the actual balls are very standard
sizes and cheap, and both could probably do with a good
cleaning and fresh lubricant.
Your crank may be "cottered", which is what our industry
calls steel cranks with wedge pins. If you're lucky, there
is a greybeard at an LBS nearby with both replacement pins (
9.5mm) and the Var #7 press to set them.
The other crank in Steyr bikes would be a Thun with a pinch
bolt on the left and a right crank that's one with the
spindle ( inspiration for the current DuraAce?). While lower
quality somewhat, that type would be easier for the home
mechanic to service. Its retainer clips are an unusual
format, but new balls may be snapped into those or just
replace them with a set of loose balls . The locknut and
adjustment are reverse threaded.

The headset similarly may have an unavailable retainer but
loose balls are arguably better anyway.
Your seat post is 25.4mm - same as all that general class of
bicycle. Wald #901 posts are fifteen inches long,$5 to $10.

Steyr used two hubs, a "Steyr" marked Sturmey Archer copy
which can use SA cables, shifter and axle nuts or a Torpedo
which will give you difficulty on those parts.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Quoted message said:

Doki said:

I picked up an old Steyr 3 speed, which is unfortunately painted
purple with nice rust highlights, and I'd like to spray it black.

Quoted message said:

Or even a Puch 3 speed 🙂.

From Steyr-Daimler-Puch, as it was once called?

Now a division of Bianchi, owned by CycleEurope.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi said:

Quoted message said:

Doki said:

I picked up an old Steyr 3 speed, which is unfortunately painted
purple with nice rust highlights, and I'd like to spray it black.

Quoted message said:

Or even a Puch 3 speed 🙂.

From Steyr-Daimler-Puch, as it was once called?

Now a division of Bianchi, owned by CycleEurope.

And Steyr seem to be making rifles for the Austrian army.

A Muzi said:

Doki said:

I picked up an old Steyr 3 speed, which is unfortunately painted
purple with nice rust highlights, and I'd like to spray it black.
I've sprayed enough things to know how to actually paint it, but I
don't know what to do about the bottom bracket and headset bearings.
Is it possible to take them out easily, or can I get away with
masking around them? I'm planning to strip down to bare metal with
an angle grinder and wire brush attachment, so there's liable to be
a fair bit of metal dust about the place. Will it be possible to
find replacement bearings if I kill them with metal dust or have I
got to cosset them for fear of never finding spares?

The other thing is that the seat tube seems very short compared to my
mountain bike's seat tube, and the seat will almost certainly be too
low for me whilst there's a reasonable length of tube in the clamp.
Have seat posts stayed the same over the years, or will I be looking
for something odd?

Neither piece is complex, the actual balls are very standard
sizes and cheap, and both could probably do with a good
cleaning and fresh lubricant.
Your crank may be "cottered", which is what our industry
calls steel cranks with wedge pins. If you're lucky, there
is a greybeard at an LBS nearby with both replacement pins (
9.5mm) and the Var #7 press to set them.

If not, I know a few people with engineering works. What's Var #7?

Quoted message said:

The other crank in Steyr bikes would be a Thun with a pinch
bolt on the left and a right crank that's one with the
spindle ( inspiration for the current DuraAce?). While lower
quality somewhat, that type would be easier for the home
mechanic to service. Its retainer clips are an unusual
format, but new balls may be snapped into those or just
replace them with a set of loose balls . The locknut and
adjustment are reverse threaded.

The headset similarly may have an unavailable retainer but
loose balls are arguably better anyway.

Your seat post is 25.4mm - same as all that general class of
bicycle. Wald #901 posts are fifteen inches long,$5 to $10.

Righto. I'll try the LBS bod when I come to put it all back together.

Quoted message said:

Steyr used two hubs, a "Steyr" marked Sturmey Archer copy
which can use SA cables, shifter and axle nuts or a Torpedo
which will give you difficulty on those parts.

Mine's got a proper Sturmy Archer with Dynohub on the back. Looks like it's
worth more than I paid for the bike 😄.