Old bike needs love...



Last Place Pete

New Member
Apr 9, 2011
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So I just ended up with a Schwinn Traveler. From what I can tell by the numbers on the badge, it was made in Taiwan in 1983. How, may you ask, did I end up with such a relic? Simple: My Specialized got stolen + found the Schwinn in my dad's garage = now it's mine. With that said, I'm looking for tips/advice/suggestions on making upgrades to the bike. Obviously I'm not looking to spend big money on such an old bike, but I would like to hopefully rebuild most of it (shifters, wheels/tires, brakes, seat, bars, etc). For a bike that is almost 30yrs old it is in remarkably great shape. Most of the paint is in mint condition, but there is some rust on the exposed chrome parts (ends of the front fork, wheels, some of the hardware, etc). Everything on the bike is original with the exception of the pedals, which I installed today. Please let me know what you all think, and thanks in advance!! -Pete
 
Kind of a tough question to answer. You can "modernize" it to nearly any degree that you want, depending upon how much you want to spend. Being a 1983, your bike is going to have a 5 or 6 cog threaded freewheel on it. If you feel that you need more than 10 or 12 gears total, you are going to have to get a new rear hub that will accept cassettes.

If the bike is in good condition, why do you need to do more than just replace the old grease in the bearings, replace the rubber, and lube the chain and pivot points? After 30 years, you will need to replace the grease and the tires and inner tubes. You might also want to pull the cables and look for rust on them. You also should replace the brake pads because they will have hardened up after sitting for 30 years.

If you are wanting to replace components, eBay is your best bet. Just make sure that what you are getting is the right size for your bike. Good luck.
 
All the points you listed would be precisely what I am looking to do. The original seat is vinyl/nylon (read: "ow!"). Seat post is pretty much all rust on the leading side. As you surmised, the pads are beyond hard, bar tape and tires are cracked and worn, both wheels are spotted with rust and the front one has a decent (but still rideable) dent in it.

Pretty much all of my biking experience in the past ten or so years has been with mountain bikes. I can do all the actual hands-on work myself, what I need the most help with is knowing what parts/accessories are the best bang for my buck. Because it is an old bike, I'm obviously not looking for high dollar/2nd kind of cool items. At the end of the day, she's still going to be a heavy old girl. I just want to make her something smooth, reliable and above all fun to ride.

Thanks for your advice, if you have any suggestions/recommendations for saddle/bar tape/pads/wheels/rubber please don't hesitate to pass it along!!

-Pete


PS- It doesn't have bosses for bottle cage(s) either. Is that just a matter of drilling a couple holes or should I find something that'll clamp around the tube?
 
Don't drill, clamp on bottle holder.

Schwinn has a nice holder, with bottle, clamp
on style for under $10 with bottle.
Zefal jel seat, unbeatable, $17. Steel wool and
some wax will take care of the surface rust.

New tires, too many and it is a personal thing
it think? I just get the Bell, Innovas at Walmart.
Had real good luck with them, over 7K miles
and they looked great when I sold the bike. Three
flats, all from staples at the local mall. Don't ride
there any more and no more flats.
 
FWIW. In addition to changing the saddle, I think that 700c wheels & tires AND indexed shifting (downtube or integrated) are worthwhile if it is within your budget because, IMO, a good frame is ALWAYS worth updating with contemporary components ...

  • IMO, "a good frame" is one that fits the rider & rides well ... most vintage frames ride well, BTW.

Regardless, I think that replacing the center pull calipers which are on your Schwinn with contemporary dual-pivot brake calipers (e.g., TEKTRO with the appropriately long reach) + some "aero" brake levers (if you don't get integrated shifters) are worth giving very serious consideration because most dual-pivot brake calipers usually have a smoother & lighter feel than the Weinmann center pull calipers ... slowing-down-and-stopping are safety issues ...

  • the cable housing on the so-called "aero" brake levers is hidden beneath the handlebar tape -- "aero" brake levers are as easily actuated when your hands ar on the top of the hoods as when your hands are on the drops of the handlebar -- I recommend TEKTRO's Campy-copy brake levers.