OGC Optik7 Flashing LED Warning

I hate to hear of the problems with your light.

This will not _fix_ the problem but might help you to live with it.

Take a plastic sandwitch bag (or some Saran wrap)and wrap a single
layer of it around the light.

Lewis.

*****************

"Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I put up a little webpage with some pictures of the light and a copy of
this text...

Interesting. The unit appears identical to the Planet Bike BRT 7 I've had
for about 3 years. Never had any trouble with it; I wear it clipped to the
retention strap on the back of my helmet.

RichC

Hey Lewis,
In my rant I included the fact that OCG said they'd replace it with a 5 LED
version. So no need to wrap sandwich bags around it...

Mike

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I hate to hear of the problems with your light.

This will not _fix_ the problem but might help you to live with it.

Take a plastic sandwitch bag (or some Saran wrap)and wrap a single
layer of it around the light.

Lewis.

*****************

Quoted message said:

Interesting. The unit appears identical to the Planet Bike BRT 7 I've had
for about 3 years. Never had any trouble with it; I wear it clipped to the
retention strap on the back of my helmet.

Yeah, cheap-ass stuff like this I'd imagine is manufactured overseas and
then sold under countless company names. You probably haven't had a problem
with it because water isnt' being sprayed directly up into the bottom (where
the switch is) like it is when I have it mounted on the seatpost.

As for the helmet thing, I'm just wondering if that is even an ideal
position. The fact that it is higher in the air is definitely good, but as
you know, LED's have a very small viewing angle (around 12 degrees or so).
So having the light properly level very important to being seen. If you have
your light on your head and it is shining like 6 degrees up (or down), then
cars will probably not see it.

Mike

"Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

As for the helmet thing, I'm just wondering if that is even an ideal
position. The fact that it is higher in the air is definitely good, but as
you know, LED's have a very small viewing angle (around 12 degrees or so).
So having the light properly level very important to being seen. If you
have your light on your head and it is shining like 6 degrees up (or
down), then cars will probably not see it.

I wouldn't wear it there if it were my only blinkie. It's ancillary to the
one on the back of my rack and the one on my seatpost. But I did have
someone follow me in a car to check whether it was effective, and she said
it was very eye-catching.

RichC

Mike Beauchamp said:

Quoted message said:

Interesting. The unit appears identical to the Planet Bike BRT 7 I've had
for about 3 years. Never had any trouble with it; I wear it clipped to the
retention strap on the back of my helmet.

Yeah, cheap-ass stuff like this I'd imagine is manufactured overseas and
then sold under countless company names. You probably haven't had a problem
with it because water isnt' being sprayed directly up into the bottom (where
the switch is) like it is when I have it mounted on the seatpost.

As for the helmet thing, I'm just wondering if that is even an ideal
position. The fact that it is higher in the air is definitely good, but as
you know, LED's have a very small viewing angle (around 12 degrees or so).
So having the light properly level very important to being seen. If you have
your light on your head and it is shining like 6 degrees up (or down), then
cars will probably not see it.

Mike

Do both, one on the helmet and one on the frame. This way if one goes
out (through getting wet or otherwise) you still have another.

My bike looks like an ambulance at night.

Quoted message said:

I wouldn't wear it there if it were my only blinkie. It's ancillary to the
one on the back of my rack and the one on my seatpost. But I did have
someone follow me in a car to check whether it was effective, and she said
it was very eye-catching.

Awesome rich, I wasn't doubting you or anything.. but I've seen people with
the best intentions of trying to be safe do some really stupid things. I'm
sure you see stuff like that all the time.. reflectors and lights pointed in
stupid directions, etc.

Mike

Mike Beauchamp said:

Yeah, cheap-ass stuff like this I'd imagine is manufactured overseas and
then sold under countless company names. You probably haven't had a problem
with it because water isnt' being sprayed directly up into the bottom (where
the switch is) like it is when I have it mounted on the seatpost.

These el-cheapo LED flashers are sold everywhere. Their lifespan is
often measured in days, not years, before they fall apart, or fail in
other ways.

Two rules you're violating

1. Never use a single tail-light. You won't know when it goes out,
and it _will_ go out someday, no matter what kind it is.

2. Always use some steady light along with a flashing light, so that
the flashing light is perceived as having a coherent position in space.
It needn't be a bright steady light, but use something steady.

Except at twilight, I prefer two steady lights displaced horizontally,
their message being clearest then.

At twilight, I add a white strobe between them; they're not yet bright
enough to attract normal attention, but the bike is dark enough not
to be seen in tree shadows. Day-glow materials also do well at
twilight (there being lots of relative UV in the sky, on which they
work).
--
Ron Hardin
[email hidden]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

Ron Hardin said:

Two rules you're violating

1. Never use a single tail-light. You won't know when it goes out,
and it _will_ go out someday, no matter what kind it is.

While I often have two taillights, I wouldn't call this a "rule." IMO,
a taillight and a reflector or two offer sufficient redundancy.

Quoted message said:

2. Always use some steady light along with a flashing light, so that
the flashing light is perceived as having a coherent position in space.
It needn't be a bright steady light, but use something steady.

The tracking of a flashing light can be a problem, but only if the "off"
portion of the cycle is very long relative to the "on" portion. Most
LED lights have a fast enough "twinkle" cycle that there is no problem
tracking their position.

Redundancy is good, but one needn't be paranoid about this. I mentioned
the other day a study of visibility treatments of cyclists and
pedestrians. A bike with only CPSC reflectors (no lights) was detected
by drivers at 844 feet. When a simple, low-power leg lamp was added,
the bike was detected at 1,300 feet! Even at a closing speed of 40 mph,
this gives the driver over 20 seconds to react.

Start counting 20 seconds now. You'll see there's no great need for fear.

--
--------------------+
Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove rodent and vegetable dot com,
replace with cc.ysu dot edu]

Frank Krygowski said:

Quoted message said:

2. Always use some steady light along with a flashing light, so that
the flashing light is perceived as having a coherent position in space.
It needn't be a bright steady light, but use something steady.

The tracking of a flashing light can be a problem, but only if the "off"
portion of the cycle is very long relative to the "on" portion. Most
LED lights have a fast enough "twinkle" cycle that there is no problem
tracking their position.

Redundancy is good, but one needn't be paranoid about this. I mentioned
the other day a study of visibility treatments of cyclists and
pedestrians. A bike with only CPSC reflectors (no lights) was detected
by drivers at 844 feet. When a simple, low-power leg lamp was added,
the bike was detected at 1,300 feet! Even at a closing speed of 40 mph,
this gives the driver over 20 seconds to react.

Start counting 20 seconds now. You'll see there's no great need for fear.

The condition you have to work for is the one where there are other competing lights,
and the idea is to impress on the driver that he has to do something unusual to
avoid you, like give you lane clearance.

A bike alone on a dark road is okay but not the worst case. In a busy area he's
not seeing you any 20 seconds ahead.
--
Ron Hardin
[email hidden]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

Mike Beauchamp said:

I bought this 7 LED Flashing Light and mounted it on the back of my

bike in

Quoted message said:

November 2004. A few days later, I rode home from school and it was

wet on

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the ground. When I got home, I noticed that the light had shut itself

off! I

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turned it back on again into the first (of 3 modes) and watched it

cycle

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itself into the other 2 modes over several minutes and eventually

shut

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itself off again.

So I took the unit apart to see what was happening. If you notice the

Quoted message said:

design, there isnt' a separate sealed switch.. instead there is

simply a

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regular micro switch that is placed inside at the bottom of the unit,

which

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can be depressed by pressing against the outer casing and bending it
inwards. As an experiment, I turned the unit on and spit on it. Sure

enough,

Quoted message said:

the spit shorted the switch and turned the unit off.

I took off the front flasher (5 LED light made by the same company,

but

Quoted message said:

different design) that uses a regular sealed switch at the back. I

put both

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into the sink and filled it up with water. Immediately, the Optik7

cycled

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through the modes and then shut itself off. The front flasher

however, kept

Quoted message said:

blinking completely submersed in water.

I have contacted Christian Pelletier ([email hidden]) from OGC, who

said he

Quoted message said:

would replace it with a 5 LED version. However, I wanted to post this

online

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incase anyone else is using one of these lights. The fact that they

are

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meant to be mounted on the seatpost, and get directly sprayed by

water from

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the rear tire exactly where the badly sealed switch is seems to pose

a

Quoted message said:

safety threat in my opinion. Especially since any contact with water

and the

Quoted message said:

light switches itself into the "off" position. Also, since it is

located

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behind you, you don't know that it has turned itself off until it is

too

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late.

DEFINITELY a flawed design in my opinion that wasn't tested properly

before

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being released. Which is a shame for an important safety product.

I've checked the light I have, and there is no flaws with the

manufacturing.

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The seal is there and in place, and it was closed properly. The next

time it

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rained, I even went out to test it again and it was off within 10

minutes

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(yes, the batteries are fully charged). Again, when I opened the

case, a

Quoted message said:

slight amount of water had gotten into the case at the bottom right

where

Quoted message said:

the micro switch is.

I put up a little webpage with some pictures of the light and a copy

of this

Quoted message said:

text...

http://beauchamp.relyon.ca/optik7/

Mike

Mike thank you for the post & web page, Happy Hollidays, John

Mike
I wouldn't call it a "rant". A really good & useful post. The kind of
stuff I read rbt for. BTW I stick w/ the Cateye that has a useful
reflector even when it's not turned on.
So far as I'm concerned, it has everything for it. It's bright, small,
dependable, light, really lasts a long time on batts., cheap. What
more could one ask for? I've almost never ridden in the rain w / it.
It's 'agin Ma rayligion to ride in the rain in California. My guess is
that it would be fine.
Thanks again, John

Frank Krygowski said:

Redundancy is good, but one needn't be paranoid about this.

Agreed. I currently ride in the city with one of the super mini CatEye
lights (looks like a red disc with a cord), reflectors on my rims,
reflective tape on my rear fender, and usually my Gill jacket with "safety
orange" back and reflective piping. I've never felt like motorists can't
see me. I've even had them thank me for taking time to be visible.

I've also been hit by a car from the rear wearing the same jacket and
running one of those Zefal tail lights with 5 LEDs, fresh batteries, and a
full 180 degree view, offering a sheer carnival of blinkage. The motorist
was laquered like a fine Japanese curio...no amount of blinkiness can
prevent that. :/

I do most of my night time riding in an old victorian neighborhood close
to my downtown. The traffic is leisurely and the lighting is good so YMMV. 😉

The main problem with the LED lights I've found is people not replacing
the batteries a timely manner--they'll get dimmer and dimmer and you won't
notice. I make sure to lean my bike again something every few nights,
leave the flasher on, and step back a few meters to see if I'm low on
juice.

So redundancy is good, but I'm really more concerned about the 90% of
evening cyclists I see around here w/o lights or reflectors rather than
myself. I'd like to see the cops pull them over and give them a choice of
a $20 ticket or purchasing a basic quality Cateye flasher on the spot for
$10.

Ron Hardin said:

The condition you have to work for is the one where there are other competing lights,
and the idea is to impress on the driver that he has to do something unusual to
avoid you, like give you lane clearance.

I found that the flash flag is good for this (day or night).

Quoted message said:

A bike alone on a dark road is okay but not the worst case. In a busy area he's
not seeing you any 20 seconds ahead.

You have to laugh when you read the packages for some of these lights,
where they claim that its visible 1/2 mile or a mile away. Sure it is,
on a straight road, on a clear night, with no competing lights, when the
light is properly mounted at the correct height.

While driving, I don't see bicycles with the el-cheapo flashers until
I'm very close to them. I give a silent "right-on" when I see a cyclist
who's equipped with good "being seen" lights.

maxo said:

Frank Krygowski said:

Redundancy is good, but one needn't be paranoid about this.

Agreed. I currently ride in the city with one of the super mini CatEye
lights (looks like a red disc with a cord), reflectors on my rims,
reflective tape on my rear fender, and usually my Gill jacket with "safety
orange" back and reflective piping. I've never felt like motorists can't
see me. I've even had them thank me for taking time to be visible.

One good thing about the CatEye TL-LD1000 is that it's two separate
circuits, each driving five LEDs, so if one flakes out, the other would
still likely work (assuming that the batteries are okay).

Steven M. Scharf said:

While driving, I don't see bicycles with the el-cheapo flashers until
I'm very close to them.

Really? How close do you have to get?

As I said elsewhere, I've never been surprised by the presence of a
legally lit cyclist. Never. I've always had _plenty_ of time to adjust
my driving to safely deal with them.

--
--------------------+
Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove rodent and vegetable dot com,
replace with cc.ysu dot edu]

maxo said:

The main problem with the LED lights I've found is people not replacing
the batteries a timely manner--they'll get dimmer and dimmer and you won't
notice. I make sure to lean my bike again something every few nights,
leave the flasher on, and step back a few meters to see if I'm low on
juice.

I agree, this is a good idea. It's something I do from time to time too.

Quoted message said:

So redundancy is good, but I'm really more concerned about the 90% of
evening cyclists I see around here w/o lights or reflectors rather than
myself. I'd like to see the cops pull them over and give them a choice of
a $20 ticket or purchasing a basic quality Cateye flasher on the spot for
$10.

Also agreed. IMO, a cop should never drive by an unlit cyclist without
stopping him.

--
--------------------+
Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove rodent and vegetable dot com,
replace with cc.ysu dot edu]

Steven M. Scharf said:

Quoted message said:

Frank Krygowski said:

Redundancy is good, but one needn't be paranoid about this.

One good thing about the CatEye TL-LD1000 is that it's two separate
circuits, each driving five LEDs, so if one flakes out, the other would
still likely work (assuming that the batteries are okay).

But it has one set of batteries, right? IOW, it has no reduncancy
against what's absolutely the most common mode of light failure!

--
--------------------+
Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove rodent and vegetable dot com,
replace with cc.ysu dot edu]