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nubless summit - i.e. nubless KH cranks

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01 / Original postnubless summit - i.e. nubless KH cranksDuaner · 5 Jul 2004 02 / This pagePosts 1–12Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #12Mgrant · 5 Jul 2004

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rec.sport.unicycling archive
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5 July 2004
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5 July 2004
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Duaner
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  1. Original post
    Duaner
    Archived post
    #1

    Thanks to a couple of bolts from Darren Bedford, and about
    20 minutes of work, my Summit's KH cranks are now nubless.

    A comparison picture top: KH140 cranks - now nubless bottom:
    KH170 cranks - still have nubs

    +-------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | Attachment filename: kh_nubs_cranks.jpg |
    |Download attachment:
    unicyclist.com210112| +-------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+

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  2. Duaner
    Archived post
    #2

    left: nubless
    rite: nubs

    +-------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+
    | Attachment filename: kh_nubs.jpg |
    |Download attachment:
    unicyclist.com210114| +-------------------------------------------------------
    ---------+

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  3. Duaner
    Archived post
    #3

    I modified my Summit first, because the nubs bothered me
    more on the short (trials) cranks than on the long
    (muni) cranks.

    Now that I've done it, I just need to order a couple of more
    bolts so I can make the same modification on my muni.

    FYI: I wear hightops shoes when riding, so the nubs never
    bloodied my ankles. But I still want nubless because:
    - on my trials: I occasionally catch my heal on the nub,
    throwing an otherwise good move out of control
    - on both trials and muni: the nubs are destroying my leg
    armor (tearing holes in the ankle area)

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  4. John_childs
    Archived post
    #4

    Cool stuff.

    What's different about Darren's bolts? Did you have to add
    any additional spacer washers on the axle (spindle) to get
    the cranks to fit snugly again?

    And for comparison, here's 'Steve Howard's nub removal
    gallery' (gallery.unicyclist.comprotrusion)

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  5. Duaner
    Archived post
    #5
    john_childs said:

    *What's different about Darren's bolts? Did you have to
    add any additional spacer washers on the axle (spindle) to
    get the cranks to fit snugly again?

    And for comparison, here's 'Steve Howard's nub removal
    gallery' (gallery.unicyclist.comprotrusion) *

    The top of the bolt is rounded and wider (you can see it
    fairly well in the pics).

    The nub part of the crank had to be cut off and ground down
    - this is the same crank modification as 'Steve Howard's'
    (gallery.unicyclist.comprotrusion). However, I used
    much cruder tools, and got a very satifactory result. I
    *_carefully_* used a hacksaw and a bench grinder. I ground
    the surface slowly and intermittently to prevent any
    accidental "heat treatment" (I never let the part get hot to
    touch). This took no more than 10 minutes per crank.

    No spacers or anything were necessary.

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  6. Darren
    Archived post
    #6

    John

    I was going to make a announcement in 2 weeks about the new
    bolts available from Bedford Unicycles that can be used to
    replace the ones that currently come on the KH and other
    unicycles.

    These bolts along with a quick removal of the nub on the
    crank will eliminate the protrusion that everyone has been
    complaining about for the last year or so.

    I have been doing this for over 6 months now. I have the
    bolts coming from 2 suppliers and will be able to supply
    about 300 customers/unicycles.

    Anyone wanting to order the bolts that will come with
    instructions can send a e-mail to me, Darren, at info at
    Bedfordunicycles dot ca

    The difference between Steve Howards option and mine is...
    anyone can do my option and the crank stays in the original
    location/postition. No spacers required keeping the Q factor
    the same. Another reason, it's inexpensive, Just the price
    of the bolts.

    I will also offer the option of removing the nub for those
    who wouldn't want to do it themselves.

    Keep tuned for more info soon, Darren

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  7. Darchibald
    Archived post
    #7

    How much are these bolts and how do you grind the nub down?

    David

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  8. Andrew_carter
    Archived post
    #8

    That's really nice, I'm going to give it a shot now on my
    trials uni.

    Andrew

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  9. John_childs
    Archived post
    #9
    Darren said:

    *The difference between Steve Howards option and mine
    is... anyone can do my option and the crank stays in the
    original location/postition. No spacers required keeping
    the Q factor the same. Another reason, it's inexpensive,
    Just the price of the bolts. *

    Very interesting. The bolt must have a specially shaped
    shoulder to allow the modified crank to fit on without
    needing an additional spacer. I assume it's a custom
    machined bolt.

    Cool stuff. That's innovation.

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  10. Rogeratunicycle
    Archived post
    #10
    john_childs said:

    *Cool stuff. That's innovation. *

    Yes credit should go to Yoggi in France who did this
    converstion 12 months ago. We then passed the modification
    on to the factory who implemented it on all the newer
    models. So this modification is only needed if you have an
    older model or replacement cranks.

    Should really put these in our catalogue as well, been a bit
    slow in implenting that. Well done Darren.

    Roger

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  11. Tmornstar
    Archived post
    #11

    Way to go to all of you who have made this adaptation
    possible. Taking the nubs off my Summit have totaly change
    my relationship with my summit.

    Tommy

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  12. Mgrant
    Archived post
    #12
    john_childs said:

    * Very interesting. The bolt must have a specially shaped
    shoulder to allow the modified crank to fit on without
    needing an additional spacer. I assume it's a custom
    machined bolt. *

    Interseting? Yes. Innovative? Yes. Custom? Nope.

    The bolt has a wide flat shoulder. Unlike the stock bolts
    which push against the inside surface of the crank, the
    outer edge of the new bolt head pushes against the
    _outside_ of nub. Everything, except the excess portion of
    the nub, remains in exactly the same place as before.
    Therefore no need for additional spacers. Look carefully at
    the above pics.

    My KH24 is equipped with these bolts. I'm not sure if this
    was a post-production modification that Darren did or if
    that's how all the 2004 models are.

    -mg

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