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nubless summit - i.e. nubless KH cranks

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
14 May 2004
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15 May 2004
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duaner
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  1. Thanks to a couple of bolts from Darren Bedford, and about 20 minutes of
    work, my Summit's KH cranks are now nubless.

    A comparison picture
    top: KH140 cranks - now nubless
    bottom: KH170 cranks - still have nubs

    +----------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Attachment filename: kh_nubs_cranks.jpg |
    |Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/210112|
    +----------------------------------------------------------------+

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  2. left: nubless
    rite: nubs

    +----------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Attachment filename: kh_nubs.jpg |
    |Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/210114|
    +----------------------------------------------------------------+

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  3. I modified my Summit first, because the nubs bothered me more on the
    short (trials) cranks than on the long (muni) cranks.

    Now that I've done it, I just need to order a couple of more bolts so I
    can make the same modification on my muni.

    FYI: I wear hightops shoes when riding, so the nubs never bloodied my
    ankles. But I still want nubless because:
    - on my trials: I occasionally catch my heal on the nub, throwing an
    otherwise good move out of control
    - on both trials and muni: the nubs are destroying my leg armor (tearing
    holes in the ankle area)

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  4. Cool stuff.

    What's different about Darren's bolts? Did you have to add any
    additional spacer washers on the axle (spindle) to get the cranks to fit
    snugly again?

    And for comparison, here's 'Steve Howard's nub removal gallery'
    (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/protrusion)

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  5. john_childs said:

    *What's different about Darren's bolts? Did you have to add any
    additional spacer washers on the axle (spindle) to get the cranks to
    fit snugly again?

    And for comparison, here's 'Steve Howard's nub removal gallery'
    (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/protrusion) *

    The top of the bolt is rounded and wider (you can see it fairly well in
    the pics).

    The nub part of the crank had to be cut off and ground down - this is
    the same crank modification as 'Steve Howard's'
    (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/protrusion). However, I used much cruder
    tools, and got a very satifactory result. I *_carefully_* used a
    hacksaw and a bench grinder. I ground the surface slowly and
    intermittently to prevent any accidental "heat treatment" (I never let
    the part get hot to touch). This took no more than 10 minutes per
    crank.

    No spacers or anything were necessary.

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  6. John

    I was going to make a announcement in 2 weeks about the new bolts
    available from
    Bedford Unicycles that can be used to replace the ones that currently
    come on the KH and other unicycles.

    These bolts along with a quick removal of the nub on the crank will
    eliminate the protrusion that everyone has been complaining about for
    the last year or so.

    I have been doing this for over 6 months now.
    I have the bolts coming from 2 suppliers and will be able to supply
    about 300 customers/unicycles.

    Anyone wanting to order the bolts that will come with instructions can
    send a e-mail to me, Darren,
    at info at Bedfordunicycles dot ca

    The difference between Steve Howards option and mine is... anyone can do
    my option and the crank stays in the original location/postition. No
    spacers required keeping the Q factor the same.
    Another reason, it's inexpensive, Just the price of the bolts.

    I will also offer the option of removing the nub
    for those who wouldn't want to do it themselves.

    Keep tuned for more info soon,
    Darren

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  7. How much are these bolts and how do you grind the nub down?

    David

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  8. That's really nice, I'm going to give it a shot now on my trials uni.

    Andrew

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  9. Darren said:

    *The difference between Steve Howards option and mine is... anyone can
    do my option and the crank stays in the original location/postition.
    No spacers required keeping the Q factor the same.
    Another reason, it's inexpensive, Just the price of the bolts.
    *

    Very interesting. The bolt must have a specially shaped shoulder to
    allow the modified crank to fit on without needing an additional spacer.
    I assume it's a custom machined bolt.

    Cool stuff. That's innovation.

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  10. john_childs said:

    *Cool stuff. That's innovation. *

    Yes credit should go to Yoggi in France who did this converstion 12
    months ago. We then passed the modification on to the factory who
    implemented it on all the newer models. So this modification is only
    needed if you have an older model or replacement cranks.

    Should really put these in our catalogue as well, been a bit slow in
    implenting that. Well done Darren.

    Roger

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  11. Way to go to all of you who have made this adaptation possible. Taking
    the nubs off my Summit have totaly change my relationship with my
    summit.

    Tommy

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  12. john_childs said:

    *
    Very interesting. The bolt must have a specially shaped shoulder to
    allow the modified crank to fit on without needing an additional
    spacer. I assume it's a custom machined bolt.
    *

    Interseting? Yes.
    Innovative? Yes.
    Custom? Nope.

    The bolt has a wide flat shoulder. Unlike the stock bolts which push
    against the inside surface of the crank, the outer edge of the new bolt
    head pushes against the _outside_ of nub. Everything, except the excess
    portion of the nub, remains in exactly the same place as before.
    Therefore no need for additional spacers. Look carefully at the above
    pics.

    My KH24 is equipped with these bolts. I'm not sure if this was a
    post-production modification that Darren did or if that's how all the
    2004 models are.

    -mg

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