Yup, a little jar of anti-seize will be a lifetime supply for the
average home mechanic. Unfortunately the stuff will go bad long before
that.
I use anti-seize on things that get squeezed very tightly. Generally
that means splines and the crank bolts on splined cranks. The exception
is the crank nut on hubs with outie threads (like the Suzue). The crank
nut gets Loctite to keep it from backing off and getting loose. The
Loctite also lubricates the threads during assembly so the nut can be
torqued down reliably.
Loctite goes on threads that I don't want backing off and getting
loose.
As a general rule no threads should be assembled dry. They should be
either greased, anti-seized, or Loctited. Dry threads can't be torqued
down reliably and they can become stuck. Torquing down dry threads very
tightly can damage the threads.
Things like pedal threads get greased before assembly. No need to use
anti-seize there. Don't use anti-seize in place of bearing grease in
pedals or other bearings. Anti-seize is not a bearing grease and is
gritty.
Things like the cinch bolt on a seatpost clamp get either anti-seize or
grease. It just depends on how I'm feeling at the time and whether I
have the grease or the anti-seize handy.
With the Profile crank tool, Profile supplies a warning that the threads
of the crank tool need to be anti-seized before threading in the crank
tool and banging on it. The Profile warranty won't cover damage due to
threading on the crank tool with dry threads and then banging on it with
a hammer.
--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo
john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
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