Hi,
A lot of thought went into this frame and in my opinion it's by far the
best frame design now available. Here's some comments.
First, my priorities for the 2005 design:
1) Stronger
2) Stiffer
3) Lighter
4) Narrower fork crown.
5) Improved bearing housings
I'll address each of these in turn:
1) Stronger.
Properly heat-treated 7005 aluminum with the geometry used for the fork
crown and blades is super strong, redundantly strong in fact for the
forces generated during unicycle riding.
There's 1/3 more weld contact area in the fork crown compared to most
frame designs, due to the U-shaped reinforcement. With this combination
it's strongest frame available for the weight.
2) Stiffer
Larger diameter ovalized tubing makes these frames extremely stiff.
The U-shaped reinforcemnt extends reinforcement close to the brakemounts
which eliminates frame flex in the critical area where braking occurs on
the 24" and 700c frames.
The standard for frame stiffness and strength was actually set by the
requirements for the 700c frame, where the longer fork blades put a lot
more leverage on the frame. This makes it really, really stiff for the
KH20 frame with the shorter fork blades.
3) Lighter.
These frames are 30% lighter than the 2004 KH frames.
4) Narrower fork crown
Flat crown frames are great for one-foot tricks but they are a little
prone to knee bashing. Rounded forks eliminate this but then you have
nowhere to put your foot for one-foot tricks.
It makes for expensive manufacturing but the KH design combines the
advantages of both in an approach that also makes for a much stronger
fork crown.
As far as the "noodle" is concerned: Why all this talk about how it
looks? Fact is- if you glide on a 24" or 700c MUni frame, your foot on
the frame is scrunched up more than on a 20" and it helps a lot if you
have grips for control. Try this out and you'll see what I mean.
5) Improved bearing housings.
Bearing housing design actually makes a big difference to the life of
your bearings. The new bearing housings are CNC machined with ridges
on either side of the bearing surface, and the bolt-holes and housing
are one piece of metal for increased strength. The bolt holes are also
centered across the bearing surface, not the entire housing, to make
sure the bearing is supported properly.
As far as bearing housing durability goes:
First, a major point: Neither grinding nor pedal grabs should come
anywhere near your bearing housings! Bashed bearing housings is a
pretty good sign of bad technique and something to work on avoiding.
That said, on the 2005 frame, the housings are thicker and one-piece so
they shouldn't be any less durable than the 2004 KH frames. In any case
they are much, much stronger than the stamped metal housings found on
most cheap frames (ie the bearing housings secured with nuts and
bolts).
Lastly, the frames are only one part of what has been a year-long
process to redesign and upgrade the KH unicycles. I'm excited about
how they've turned out and will post some photos as soon as they become
available.
Kris
--
danger_uni - Kris Holm
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