Noob Rider here

Steve Bernhardt said:

Howdy,

Until about 8 months ago, I was a huge tub of lard....ive lost a ton of weight in the gym, but that
is getting old and I thought I would get on a bike. Ive been shopping around and am kind of
dismayed by the sheer number of choices.....

I plan on commuting a bit, take the bike on the train, drive the last 5-6 miles.

er, ride the last 5-6 miles?

Quoted message said:

Want to take part in some fundraiser type rides, 30-work up to 50 miles or so. Not too interested
in much offroad, maybe some fireroads etc. I am a social worker, so spending tons of money is out
of the question....

Thinking about a TREK 1000 or 1000c, or a TREK 7300. Or would a mountain bike do the trick?

A mountain bike would do the trick admirably. In fact, a *used* rigid (non-suspended) mountain bike
might do the trick for you at very little cost. A suitable bike is standing outside my local
pawnshop for US$150.

You don't want a wal-mart bike, or anything like that; they're heavy and not much fun--not to
mention shoddily put-together.

If you intend to use the bicycle for transport, fitting fenders (mudguards) and lights would be
ideal; many 'hybrid' or 'city' bikes will allow you to do this. That way you don't fling road-[censored]
up from your wheels onto you.

Other ones to consider: Fuji Supreme, Jamis Citizen.....but the variety, of course, is mind-
bewildering.

Whatever you get, make absolutely sure the bicycle fits you. Riding a bike that's too big or too
small for any distance is no fun.

Also: find John Forester's _Effective Cycling_ at your local library. Don't ride on the sidewalk.

-Luigi

Tue, 17 Feb 2004 21:01:40 -0700,
<[email hidden]>, "Steve Bernhardt"

Quoted message said:

Thinking about a TREK 1000 or 1000c, or a TREK 7300. Or would a mountain bike do the trick?

Thanks, Steve

The mountain bike would require modification for riding the conditions you describe. You'll find the
drop bars on the road bikes more comfortable on the longer rides you hope to undertake.

Of the Trek road bikes, I'd pick the 1000 because I don't like the look of "compact geometry"
frames, suspension gee-gaws or adjustable stems. If you're still heavy, you might want the larger
tires that come standard on the 'comfort' model.

Read this and then ride them. chainreactionbicycles.comroadbiketestrides.htmOpen ↗

Know that what you're really looking for is a bike shop where you're not intimidated by elitist
types, the staff is competent and they're not fobbing off an ill-fitting bike because that's
what they've got in stock. When you've found the right shop, they'll have the right bike or get
it for you.
--
zk

Looks like its more like 10 miles from the train....and then ride the whole way home.

I weigh 230, so I still have 40 pounds to go. I might be blowing up the standard thin tires on the
Trek 1000?

"Zoot Katz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Tue, 17 Feb 2004 21:01:40 -0700, <[email hidden]>, "Steve Bernhardt"

Quoted message said:

Thinking about a TREK 1000 or 1000c, or a TREK 7300. Or would a mountain bike do the trick?

Thanks, Steve

The mountain bike would require modification for riding the conditions you describe. You'll find
the drop bars on the road bikes more comfortable on the longer rides you hope to undertake.

Of the Trek road bikes, I'd pick the 1000 because I don't like the look of "compact geometry"
frames, suspension gee-gaws or adjustable stems. If you're still heavy, you might want the larger
tires that come standard on the 'comfort' model.

Read this and then ride them. chainreactionbicycles.comroadbiketestrides.htmOpen ↗

Know that what you're really looking for is a bike shop where you're not intimidated by elitist
types, the staff is competent and they're not fobbing off an ill-fitting bike because that's
what they've got in stock. When you've found the right shop, they'll have the right bike or get
it for you.
--
zk

"Steve Bernhardt" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Looks like its more like 10 miles from the train....and then ride the whole way home.

I weigh 230, so I still have 40 pounds to go. I might be blowing up the standard thin tires on the
Trek 1000?

Don't know how thin the tires are, but at your weight, a 25-30mm tire is best. The advantage of a
bit wider tire is that the ride is more comfortable and the rim is better protected from road
hazards. You don't need tread though, that just makes tires heavy and slow, get slicks. At your
weight, the important thing is to get a bike that has been well prepped, especially the wheels. Buy
a bike with enough clearance around the tires to allow even wider tires and/or fenders.

(Denver C. Fox) said:

Quoted message said:

I weigh 230, so I still have 40 pounds to go. I might be blowing up the standard thin tires on the
Trek 1000?

Common fallacy.

The tires will be fine with your weight, as will a decently built bike.

I have used a mtn bike with slicks on all sorts of rides - local, supported tours, etc. It will do
fine, but you will feel a bit left behind on charity rides, etc., as the roadies pass you.

Question of cost, money you have available and want to spend.

I bought a road bike and now have three bikes, not an uncommon phenomenon amongst crazy
bicyclists. Many have more! My weight was 245, now 219, and I have never had any problems with
tubes, tires and wheels.

Perhaps you're lucky?

I weigh 235, and have done for ages. My first 'serious' bike was an old Raleigh, which rode on 25mm
tires. I had to keep them pumped up to ridiculous pressure to prevent them from pinch-flatting.
That, and I totally ruined my rear wheel--breaking three spokes!--one afternoon.

Heck, I even popped a spoke on my new bike, which rides on 32mm tires.

I wasn't so fussed about trashing the first bike's wheel though; I was only out 70 bucks when I
bought it, and by that time I'd had enough miles to know what I was really looking for....

-Luigi

Luigi de Guzman said:

Quoted message said:

amongst crazy bicyclists. Many have more! My weight was 245, now 219, and I have never had any
problems with tubes, tires and wheels.

Perhaps you're lucky?

I weigh 235, and have done for ages. My first 'serious' bike was an

Usually, when discussing weight here, I speak up as the heavier one. However, at 210, I'm not too
much lighter.

Quoted message said:

old Raleigh, which rode on 25mm tires. I had to keep them pumped up to ridiculous pressure to
prevent them from pinch-flatting. That, and

Define ridiculous pressure. Also define road conditions and riding style.

I run 23mm tires at 100 to 120 psi, and don't pinch-flat. I ride a little awkwardly, often not
"riding light" by getting off the saddle before a bump. However, my roads are not terrible. I rarely
feel like I'm riding on a minefield; just many small bumps, and occasional craters.

Quoted message said:

I totally ruined my rear wheel--breaking three spokes!--one afternoon.

Sounds like a badly built wheel, or a badly adjusted rear derailer.

Quoted message said:

Heck, I even popped a spoke on my new bike, which rides on 32mm tires.

Repeat the wreck.bicycles.* mantra three times daily: I _will_ stress relieve my wheels. I _will_
stress relieve my wheels. I _will_ stress relieve me wheels.

Heh.
--
Rick Onanian

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:34:30 -0500, Rick Onanian <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Luigi de Guzman said:

Quoted message said:

amongst crazy bicyclists. Many have more! My weight was 245, now 219, and I have never had any
problems with tubes, tires and wheels.

Perhaps you're lucky?

I weigh 235, and have done for ages. My first 'serious' bike was an

Usually, when discussing weight here, I speak up as the heavier one. However, at 210, I'm not too
much lighter.

I exist to make other people feel better.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

old Raleigh, which rode on 25mm tires. I had to keep them pumped up to ridiculous pressure to
prevent them from pinch-flatting. That, and

Define ridiculous pressure. Also define road conditions and riding style.

I run 23mm tires at 100 to 120 psi, and don't pinch-flat. I ride a little awkwardly, often not
"riding light" by getting off the saddle before a bump. However, my roads are not terrible. I
rarely feel like I'm riding on a minefield; just many small bumps, and occasional craters.

err...120 and up, as I recall. I was really inflating the bejeezus out of them.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I totally ruined my rear wheel--breaking three spokes!--one afternoon.

Sounds like a badly built wheel, or a badly adjusted rear derailer.

Just an old wheel, I guess, and the whole thing ran with a Maillard Helicomatic hub--and I am given
to understand that wheels built with these are much weaker due to the increased dish necessary.

You have to understand--this was a pawnshop bike, maybe about as old as I am, at 23.

The worst thing about it was that I never saw the girl I was riding with that day ever again.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Heck, I even popped a spoke on my new bike, which rides on 32mm tires.

Repeat the wreck.bicycles.* mantra three times daily: I _will_ stress relieve my wheels. I _will_
stress relieve my wheels. I _will_ stress relieve me wheels.

om mana padme *ping*

-Luigi www.livejournal.com/users/ouij Photos, rants, raves

18 Feb 2004 12:47:13 GMT,

Quoted post said:

Quoted message said:

I weigh 230, so I still have 40 pounds to go. I might be blowing up the standard thin tires on the
Trek 1000?

Common fallacy.

The tires will be fine with your weight, as will a decently built bike.

1000 - 25 mm 1000c - 28 mm 7300 - 35 mm

Comfort in lieu of a suspension seat post was why I suggested the larger tires. He also mentioned
occasionally riding fire roads.
--
zk

Luigi de Guzman said:

Quoted message said:

However, at 210, I'm not too much lighter.

I exist to make other people feel better.

Wrong attitude. Unless your weight is a serious health problem, figure out what's good about your
weight, and be happy with it. My weight, combined with my aerobelly, means I'm real fast going
downhill, compared to an average cyclist whose drag is nearly the same but who has much less
gravitational advantage.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I run 23mm tires at 100 to 120 psi, and don't pinch-flat. I ride a little awkwardly, often not
"riding light" by getting off the saddle before a bump. However, my roads are not terrible. I
rarely feel like I'm riding on a minefield; just many small bumps, and occasional craters.

err...120 and up, as I recall. I was really inflating the bejeezus out of them.

Rough roads, then? 120 ought to be enough to prevent pinch flats at your weight. A recent post
included a link to a pressure-weight chart at a tandem site...here it is:
precisiontandems.comtirechart.jpgOpen ↗

You said you weigh 235, right? For a 25 pound bike, with a 25mm tire, you _should_ be more than fine
at 120 psi, according to that chart. Obviously, ymmv; your tires, roads, and riding may vary too.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Sounds like a badly built wheel, or a badly adjusted rear derailer.

Just an old wheel, I guess, and the whole thing ran with a Maillard Helicomatic hub--and I am given
to understand that wheels built with these are much weaker due to the increased dish necessary.

You have to understand--this was a pawnshop bike, maybe about as old as I am, at 23.

I have a bike like this, an old rescued Peugeot with that hub, but haven't put many miles on it. I
guess I'll beware of the weak wheel. The bike is probably about the same age as myself, you, and
your bike.

Quoted message said:

The worst thing about it was that I never saw the girl I was riding with that day ever again.

Bummer. There's a compelling reason to give proper attention to your wheels before they become
problems. Then again, if you're already committed, it might be a _good_ thing to break down and lose
the new riding partner...
--
Rick Onanian

Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:51:40 -0500,
<[email hidden]>, Rick Onanian
<[email hidden]> wrote, in part:

Quoted message said:

My weight, combined with my aerobelly, means I'm real fast going downhill, compared to an average
cyclist whose drag is nearly the same but who has much less gravitational advantage.

I compensate with an extra 20 lbs of bike and 10 lbs of lock.
--
zk

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 14:51:40 -0500, Rick Onanian <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Luigi de Guzman said:

Quoted message said:

However, at 210, I'm not too much lighter.

I exist to make other people feel better.

Wrong attitude. Unless your weight is a serious health problem, figure out what's good about your
weight, and be happy with it. My weight, combined with my aerobelly, means I'm real fast going
downhill, compared to an average cyclist whose drag is nearly the same but who has much less
gravitational advantage.

I take it in good humour. At the moment I'm trying to reduce the aerobelly, as it's preventing me
from enjoying the drops as often as I'd like. Among other things. The grav assist is a blast though,
especially when I take the whole lane screaming downhill on one street here in town....

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I run 23mm tires at 100 to 120 psi, and don't pinch-flat. I ride a little awkwardly, often not
"riding light" by getting off the saddle before a bump. However, my roads are not terrible. I
rarely feel like I'm riding on a minefield; just many small bumps, and occasional craters.

err...120 and up, as I recall. I was really inflating the bejeezus out of them.

Rough roads, then? 120 ought to be enough to prevent pinch flats at your weight. A recent post
included a link to a pressure-weight chart at a tandem site...here it is:
precisiontandems.comtirechart.jpgOpen ↗

You said you weigh 235, right? For a 25 pound bike, with a 25mm tire, you _should_ be more than
fine at 120 psi, according to that chart. Obviously, ymmv; your tires, roads, and riding may
vary too.

So maybe riding gravel ith 25mm tires at 120psi, and charging over gaps and frost heaves wasn't a
good idea at my weight, huh.

*grin*

But it certainly was fun.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Sounds like a badly built wheel, or a badly adjusted rear derailer.

Just an old wheel, I guess, and the whole thing ran with a Maillard Helicomatic hub--and I am
given to understand that wheels built with these are much weaker due to the increased dish
necessary.

You have to understand--this was a pawnshop bike, maybe about as old as I am, at 23.

I have a bike like this, an old rescued Peugeot with that hub, but haven't put many miles on it. I
guess I'll beware of the weak wheel. The bike is probably about the same age as myself, you, and
your bike.

I'd be careful if I were you. But those old bikes are loads of fun. I'm still looking for a reasonably-
priced replacement wheelset for the old Raleigh.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The worst thing about it was that I never saw the girl I was riding with that day ever again.

Bummer. There's a compelling reason to give proper attention to your wheels before they become
problems. Then again, if you're already committed, it might be a _good_ thing to break down and
lose the new riding partner...

At least I didn't break down while she was there. That would have been embarrassing. She peeled off
for home (I live in the next town). Anyhow, wasn't more than twenty seconds after she'd pedaled out
of sight, and the wheel twanged like Cacofonix the Bard.

-Luigi a recherche de la roue perdu

www.livejournal.com/users/ouij Photos, Rants, Raves

Luigi de Guzman said:

I'm still looking for a reasonably-priced replacement wheelset for the old Raleigh.

Buy Jobst's book, and build it yourself. You can probably re-use the old rim; a reasonable hub can
be found cheaply used, or even free on a garbage bike; and spokes are cheap.
--
Rick Onanian

Wow, what a response. Great newsgroup, here. I am taking notes.....

Steve

"Peter Cole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:PsKYb.4005$Xp.48537@attbi_s54...

Quoted message said:

"Steve Bernhardt" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Looks like its more like 10 miles from the train....and then ride the

whole

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

way home.

I weigh 230, so I still have 40 pounds to go. I might be blowing up the standard thin tires on
the Trek 1000?

Don't know how thin the tires are, but at your weight, a 25-30mm tire is

best.

Quoted message said:

The advantage of a bit wider tire is that the ride is more comfortable and

the

Quoted message said:

rim is better protected from road hazards. You don't need tread though,

that

Quoted message said:

just makes tires heavy and slow, get slicks. At your weight, the important thing is to get a bike
that has been well prepped, especially the wheels.

Buy

Quoted message said:

a bike with enough clearance around the tires to allow even wider tires

and/or

Quoted message said:

fenders.

Wed, 18 Feb 2004 23:10:36 -0700,
<[email hidden]>, "Steve Bernhardt"

Quoted message said:

Wow, what a response. Great newsgroup, here.

It's more of a bike gang than a newsgroup. You meet the nicest people in the world on bicycles.

Quoted message said:

I am taking notes.....

Cool. netmeister.orglearn2quote.htmlOpen ↗
--
zk

On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 23:14:46 -0800, Zoot Katz <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

It's more of a bike gang than a newsgroup. You meet the nicest people in the world on bicycles.

...provided they, too are on bicycles.

As to motorists, they're a mixed bag.....

-Luigi

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I am taking notes.....

Cool. netmeister.orglearn2quote.htmlOpen ↗

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Howdy,

Until about 8 months ago, I was a huge tub of lard....ive lost a ton of weight in the gym, but
that is getting old and I thought I would get on a bike. Ive been shopping around and am kind of
dismayed by the sheer number of choices.....

I plan on commuting a bit, take the bike on the train, drive the last 5-6 miles. Want to take part
in some fundraiser type rides, 30-work up to 50 miles or so. Not too interested in much offroad,
maybe some fireroads etc. I am a social worker, so spending tons of money is out of the
question....

Thinking about a TREK 1000 or 1000c, or a TREK 7300. Or would a mountain bike do the trick?

For the commute, a MTB would be fine, but might be a bit tough for a 50- mile ride. For entry level
road bikes, Fuji makes several (depending on your definition of "entry level". Check out the Ace,
League (maybe the best buy in entry-level road bikes), Finest, and Touring. I have a Fuji touring,
paid about $800 (possibly above your budget range, though). It came with a rack (for commuting) and
has plenty of room for fenders (for the rain). It has a sturdy frame and fairly big tires which
would handle smooth off-road trails with no problem, and a wide range 27-speed drivetrain. I put on
skinnier, higher-pressure tires to get some lower rolling resistance for local citizen's races, at
the cost of a rougher ride.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Looks like its more like 10 miles from the train....and then ride the whole way home.

I weigh 230, so I still have 40 pounds to go. I might be blowing up the standard thin tires on the
Trek 1000?

I think it would handle it just fine, as long as you pumped them up to their rated max pressure,
which I do anyway even though I'm not as heavy as you. You could also look at touring bikes, which
are designed to handle heavier loads; they could easily handle someone your size or larger with
another 50 lbs of cargo.

....

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

Quoted message said:

I run 23mm tires at 100 to 120 psi, and don't pinch-flat. I ride a little awkwardly, often not
"riding light" by getting off the saddle before a bump. However, my roads are not terrible. I
rarely feel like I'm riding on a minefield; just many small bumps, and occasional craters.

Rick: Your experiences are not universal. The typical 210 pound rider often doesn't fare well with
23c tires, even inflated to max air pressure. We find that bumping up to a 25c tire does a lot for
reducing both pinch flats and rim damage, at little cost in terms of riding efficiency.

At 235 pounds, *especially* for a bike used for commuting, I'd go to 28cm tires on any bike that
could handle them. Commuting generally involves the shortest-possible route between two points, not
the really nice roads that you'd go out for recreational cycling on. Plus, when in traffic, a lot of
your attention is diverted to the cars and not quite so much to the road immediately in front of you
(if it's even visible; often a pothole will suddenly appear from underneath the car you're behind).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com

"Steve Bernhardt" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Howdy,

Until about 8 months ago, I was a huge tub of lard....ive lost a ton of weight in the gym, but
that is getting old and I thought I would get on a bike. Ive been shopping around and am kind of
dismayed by the sheer number of choices.....

I plan on commuting a bit, take the bike on the train, drive the last 5-6 miles. Want to take part
in some fundraiser type rides, 30-work up to 50 miles or so. Not too interested in much offroad,
maybe some fireroads etc. I am a social worker, so spending tons of money is out of the
question....

Thinking about a TREK 1000 or 1000c, or a TREK 7300. Or would a mountain bike do the trick?

Thanks, Steve

If you plan on riding 30 to 50 miles, you want a road bike. I bought a TREK 1000 a few years back
and have been very happy with it. Haven't tried to commute with it, but am getting in close to 80
miles per weekend and the bike has held up well.

BTW, if you've lost weight in the gym, wait till you hop on the bike. Its a great way to
burn calories.

Good luck, Richard Stanz