Noisy Rolfs

Quoted message said:

I'm sure this has been asked before, but how can I get into the freehub

off

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some Rolf Vector Pros so that I can grease that noisy freehub? I remember seeing a post awhile
back where Peter from Vecchio's said to tap out the

axle

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or something to that effect. How do you first remove that silver dust

cap?

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Any help appreciated.

Best way to pull off the axle cap is with a hub vise (which is basically a device with two half-
circles that you put into your vise and gently clamp down onto the axle cap). Second best would be
to simply pull it off with some pliers; the impressions you'll make won't be visible when the wheel
is in the frame.

You don't need to remove the cassette from the ratcheting mechanism on the Vector Pro. The entire
thing simply pulls off of the hub as one unit.

Do keep in mind that you need a special grease for that particular cassette mechanism. We've
tried alternatives, but haven't found anything that works as well as the special Hugi grease. Not
cheap stuff (about $10 for a very small tub, if I recall correctly), but it takes very little to
do the job.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

bbear-<< I'm sure this has been asked before, but how can I get into the freehub off some Rolf
Vector Pros so that I can grease that noisy freehub? I remember seeing a post awhile back where
Peter from Vecchio's said to tap out the axle or something to that effect. How do you first remove
that silver dust cap?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

very thin something to pry it off and the freehub just slides off, nothing but the frameset really
holding it on. Be careful to not goop the inside too much cuz if the rising disc, doesn't, you will
freewheel forward, making for a nasty crash.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Just to supplement Mike's and Peter's comments, there are some pretty
good PDF files on hub maintenance available at the Hugi web site.
They contains some information and photos on disassembly. I think the
correct file is dtswiss.comMAN EN 40114093188.pdfOpen ↗

I tried to dissassemble my wheel on my own, but I could not bring myself to force the hub apart
because I was afraid of breaking something. I ended up taking the wheeel into a LBS to relube the
hub. It only cost $14, which seemed reasonable. The hub is reasonably quieter, but the technician
says it will get noisier after a while as the grease spins away.
r.b.

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

[snip]

Quoted message said:

Do keep in mind that you need a special grease for that particular cassette mechanism. We've
tried alternatives, but haven't found anything that works as well as the special Hugi grease. Not
cheap stuff (about $10 for a very small tub, if I recall correctly), but it takes very little to
do the job.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

Dear Mike,

Does this Hugi grease-tub list any special properties, or can you tell that the stuff is different
in some way by just sticking a finger in it?

Is it slipperier, thicker, non-corrosive, water-repelling, more tenacious, non-allergenic, good for
watches, used to lubricate tank treads, or what?

You've found that it works as well, but now I want to know what you mean--no squeaking, smoother
shifting, lasts longer, spins easier?

Have you tried this good stuff for other uses, like greasing air pumps (there were posts about high-
pressure pump grease), or is it just special-purpose?

Intrigued,

Carl Fogel

You can take the silver dust cap off by placing the small protruding end into a vise and simply
pulling it straight off. Will probably leave some slight marring on it, but no big deal. There are
no special tools available or needed to take this off.

Rock Shock's Judy Butter is light weight and works fine. Just use a fine amount and smear it around
the hub. With dry riding conditions, should last the season.

"BBear505" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm sure this has been asked before, but how can I get into the freehub

off

Quoted message said:

some Rolf Vector Pros so that I can grease that noisy freehub? I remember seeing a post awhile
back where Peter from Vecchio's said to tap out the

axle

Quoted message said:

or something to that effect. How do you first remove that silver dust

cap?

Quoted message said:

Any help appreciated.

thanks, Ernie

Carl:

Quoted message said:

Does this Hugi grease-tub list any special properties, or can you tell that the stuff is different
in some way by just sticking a finger in it?

Originally I believe it had a "Moly-Kote" description, but the current stuff I'm getting comes in
nondescript tiny white tubes with nothing other than "Trek synthetic grease kit for star ratchets
only" part #232154. And an even-higher price at $19.99. Maybe one ounce of grease.

Quoted message said:

Is it slipperier, thicker, non-corrosive, water-repelling, more tenacious, non-allergenic, good
for watches, used to lubricate tank treads, or what?

Pretty expensive stuff to lube tank treads with! It's not too thick, mildly tacky, dark
gray in color.

Quoted message said:

You've found that it works as well, but now I want to know what you mean--no squeaking, smoother
shifting, lasts longer, spins easier?

It quiets the ratchet assembly down and obviously has good lubrication characteristics, since it's
rare that you ever have to replace any of the ratchet mechanism components. And fortunately you need
very little grease to do the job; one tiny tub will probably lube 20 hubs, perhaps many more.

Quoted message said:

Have you tried this good stuff for other uses, like greasing air pumps (there were posts about high-
pressure pump grease), or is it just special-purpose?

Too expensive! I'm trying to run down possible generic alternatives as I type (meaning that I'm
waiting for a reply to an email I sent earlier).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com

Thanks everyone for the tips. The DT link was great. I'll keep in mind about the special grease. An
alternative to the half circle jaws would be some V-jaws. Would probably not leave any marks and
doubles the grip of just using pliers or just using a regular vise. thanks again.

Ernie

Try looking at Lubriplate 630-2. Works great in Rolf/Hugi hub mechanisms. Works great as a general
shop grease. Wonderful in hub bearings too.

I believe 630-2 was developed for Caterpillar to lube the tread hinges. Has a Timken rating of 65,
really good at separating 2 metal surfaces under pressure.

Costs about $3 for a 14 ounce cylinder. I get mine from a bearing supply house.

Bruce

"Mike Jacoubowsky/Chain Reaction Bicycles" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Carl:

Quoted message said:

Does this Hugi grease-tub list any special properties, or can you tell that the stuff is
different in some way by just sticking a finger in it?

Originally I believe it had a "Moly-Kote" description, but the current

stuff

Quoted message said:

I'm getting comes in nondescript tiny white tubes with nothing other than "Trek synthetic
grease kit for star ratchets only" part #232154. And an even-higher price at $19.99. Maybe one
ounce of grease.

Quoted message said:

Is it slipperier, thicker, non-corrosive, water-repelling, more tenacious, non-allergenic, good
for watches, used to lubricate tank treads, or what?

Pretty expensive stuff to lube tank treads with! It's not too thick,

mildly

Quoted message said:

tacky, dark gray in color.

Quoted message said:

You've found that it works as well, but now I want to know what you mean--no squeaking, smoother
shifting, lasts longer, spins easier?

It quiets the ratchet assembly down and obviously has good lubrication characteristics, since it's
rare that you ever have to replace any of the ratchet mechanism components. And fortunately you
need very little grease to do the job; one tiny tub will probably lube 20 hubs, perhaps many more.

Quoted message said:

Have you tried this good stuff for other uses, like greasing air pumps (there were posts about
high-pressure pump grease), or is it just special-purpose?

Too expensive! I'm trying to run down possible generic alternatives as I type (meaning that I'm
waiting for a reply to an email I sent earlier).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com

Quoted message said:

Try looking at Lubriplate 630-2. Works great in Rolf/Hugi hub mechanisms. Works great as a general
shop grease. Wonderful in hub bearings too.

I believe 630-2 was developed for Caterpillar to lube the tread hinges.

Has

Quoted message said:

a Timken rating of 65, really good at separating 2 metal surfaces under pressure.

Bruce: Your recommendation may be worth a try; I ran it past someone at TREK who thought it
has potential. I wouldn't use it on one of our customer's bikes until I tested it on my own
first though.

Thanks-

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com

"Bruce Gilbert" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Try looking at Lubriplate 630-2. Works great in Rolf/Hugi hub mechanisms. Works great as a general
shop grease. Wonderful in hub bearings too.

I believe 630-2 was developed for Caterpillar to lube the tread hinges.

Has

Quoted message said:

a Timken rating of 65, really good at separating 2 metal surfaces under pressure.

Costs about $3 for a 14 ounce cylinder. I get mine from a bearing supply house.

Bruce

"Mike Jacoubowsky/Chain Reaction Bicycles" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Carl:

Quoted message said:

Does this Hugi grease-tub list any special properties, or can you tell that the stuff is
different in some way by just sticking a finger in it?

Originally I believe it had a "Moly-Kote" description, but the current

stuff

Quoted message said:

I'm getting comes in nondescript tiny white tubes with nothing other

than

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Trek synthetic grease kit for star ratchets only" part #232154. And an even-higher price at
$19.99. Maybe one ounce of grease.

Quoted message said:

Is it slipperier, thicker, non-corrosive, water-repelling, more tenacious, non-allergenic,
good for watches, used to lubricate tank treads, or what?

Pretty expensive stuff to lube tank treads with! It's not too thick,

mildly

Quoted message said:

tacky, dark gray in color.

Quoted message said:

You've found that it works as well, but now I want to know what you mean--no squeaking,
smoother shifting, lasts longer, spins easier?

It quiets the ratchet assembly down and obviously has good lubrication characteristics, since
it's rare that you ever have to replace any of

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

ratchet mechanism components. And fortunately you need very little

grease

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to do the job; one tiny tub will probably lube 20 hubs, perhaps many

more.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Have you tried this good stuff for other uses, like greasing air pumps (there were posts about
high-pressure pump grease), or is it just special-purpose?

Too expensive! I'm trying to run down possible generic alternatives as

I

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

type (meaning that I'm waiting for a reply to an email I sent earlier).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com