and she's a Filipina
White House Cook-Off Ends: Woman Becomes First Chef
By MARIAN BURROS
Published: August 14, 2005
After a lengthy selection process, First Lady Laura Bush announced
today
that Cristeta Comerford, an assistant chef at the White House, was
promoted to be executive chef, making her the first woman to be named
to
that position.
Ms. Comerford, a naturalized citizen from the Philippines, learned on
Thursday of the decision that had been made after six months of
deliberations.
Mrs. Bush said she was delighted that Ms. Comerford accepted the job.
"Her passion for cooking can be tasted in every bite of her delicious
creations," she said.
Ms. Comerford had an advantage over outside applicants. "It's
something
Mrs. Bush had a comfort level with," said Susan Whitson, Mrs. Bush's
press secretary. "She knew what she was capable of and it was an
opportunity to promote someone from within" Ms. Whitson added, making
the choice another first.
Ms. Comerford, 41, who immediately left on vacation with her husband,
was unavailable for comment. But she had said in an earlier interview
that she was very pleased to be considered.
Ms. Comerford was hired by her predecessor at the White House, Walter
Scheib 3rd, in 1995. Since Mr. Scheib was asked to resign in February,
she has been sharing the top job with the other assistant chef, John
Meillor, preparing official dinners and private parties. For family
dinners, she prepared everything from huevos rancheros, the
president's
favorite Sunday morning breakfast, to oysters and spinach au gratin
for
one of Mrs. Bush's literary themed dinners, including one honoring
Shakespeare. Prime rib roast with elderberry mustard and verjus, with
onions simmered in raisins, was also on the menu.
Roland Mesnier, a former White House pastry chef, and a great
supporter
of her candidacy, was delighted with the choice. "Fantastic," he said.
"You can recognize the flavor of what she cooks and you can recognize
all the elements on the plate. Many times a chef puts things in a
recipe
and you say 'what am I eating?' "
With her selection, Mrs. Bush has managed to please both her husband
and
the more sophisticated needs of White House state occasions. "The
president likes to recognize what he's eating," Mr. Mesnier said. "He
doesn't like to eat things that look strange on the plate."
Mr. Scheib said he "couldn't be happier with the selection because
she's
the best candidate. No question about it."
Ms. Comerford worked closely with Mr. Scheib on many projects,
including
the state dinner in honor of the president of the Philippines.
"She and I were like two fingers crossed," he said, "mentor and
protégé.
I don't see her choice as a radical departure from anything." That
last
comment suggested that Mrs. Bush asked Mr. Scheib to leave, not
because
she did not like his food, as some have speculated, but because she
wanted her own person in the job and not a holdover from the Clinton
administration.
"It would have made sense to put her in place right away," Mr. Scheib
said. "What took them so long?"
Ms. Comerford, who came to the United States when she was 23, received
a
bachelor's degree in food technology from the University of the
Philippines, studied classic French cooking, worked in Austria and at
hotels in Washington. She also collaborated with the California chef
John Ash to promote American game cooking.
She lives in Columbia, Md., with her husband, John.