New Paired Spoke Wheels

John Everett said:

My girlfriend recently ordered a new bike (Trek 1500 WSD) which comes
with Bontrager Select wheels. When she ordered the bike I asked about
exchanging the wheels for something more conventional (32 spoke,

three

Quoted message said:

cross, etc.) but the shop wouldn't do it at any reasonable cost. I
figured since she doesn't weigh all that much and there seem to be
plenty of these wheels being ridden, we'll just go with the Selects.

While I've built a number of wheels they've all been either 32 or 36
spoke conventional wheels. I'm wondering if I should stress relieve,
tension, and retrue the new Selects before she rides on them. I've
never dealt with low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear) paired spoke
wheels. If I do opt to work on them is there anything specific I
should be aware of?

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Well, if you enjoy doing the work, far be it for me to dissuade you.
Be aware, though, that Trek has pretty good quality control and all
sorts of special fixtures for building these wheels. The paired spoke
design makes these wheels a bit tricky to work on, so be prepared to
spend a good long while truing them up.

Personally, if they're not wobbly now, I'd leave 'em alone for the
moment.

John Everett said:

My girlfriend recently ordered a new bike (Trek 1500 WSD) which
comes with Bontrager Select wheels. When she ordered the bike I
asked about exchanging the wheels for something more conventional
(32 spoke, three cross, etc.) but the shop wouldn't do it at any
reasonable cost. I figured since she doesn't weigh all that much and
there seem to be plenty of these wheels being ridden, we'll just go
with the Selects.

Quoted message said:

While I've built a number of wheels they've all been either 32 or 36
spoke conventional wheels. I'm wondering if I should stress relieve,
tension, and retrue the new Selects before she rides on them. I've
never dealt with low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear) paired spoke
wheels. If I do opt to work on them is there anything specific I
should be aware of?

Not to worry, Trek stress relieves all their wheels after building.
They have a fixture that raises tension in each spoke by at least 50%.

Jobst Brandt
[email hidden]

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

John Everett said:

My girlfriend recently ordered a new bike (Trek 1500 WSD)

which

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

comes with Bontrager Select wheels. When she ordered the bike

I

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

asked about exchanging the wheels for something more

conventional

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

(32 spoke, three cross, etc.) but the shop wouldn't do it at

any

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

reasonable cost. I figured since she doesn't weigh all that

much and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

there seem to be plenty of these wheels being ridden, we'll

just go

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

with the Selects.

Quoted message said:

While I've built a number of wheels they've all been either

32 or 36

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

spoke conventional wheels. I'm wondering if I should stress

relieve,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tension, and retrue the new Selects before she rides on them.

I've

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

never dealt with low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear) paired

spoke

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

wheels. If I do opt to work on them is there anything

specific I

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

should be aware of?

Not to worry, Trek stress relieves all their wheels after

building.

Quoted message said:

They have a fixture that raises tension in each spoke by at

least 50%.

Am I dreaming? Did you say something vaguely good about a
paired-spoke wheel? Say it ain't so, Jobst. -- Jay Beattie.

Jay Beattie said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

John Everett said:

My girlfriend recently ordered a new bike (Trek 1500 WSD) which
comes with Bontrager Select wheels. When she ordered the bike I
asked about exchanging the wheels for something more conventional
(32 spoke, three cross, etc.) but the shop wouldn't do it at any
reasonable cost. I figured since she doesn't weigh all that much and
there seem to be plenty of these wheels being ridden, we'll just go
with the Selects.

Quoted message said:

While I've built a number of wheels they've all been either 32 or 36
spoke conventional wheels. I'm wondering if I should stress relieve,
tension, and retrue the new Selects before she rides on them. I've
never dealt with low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear) paired spoke
wheels. If I do opt to work on them is there anything specific I
should be aware of?

Not to worry, Trek stress relieves all their wheels after building.
They have a fixture that raises tension in each spoke by at least
50%.

Am I dreaming? Did you say something vaguely good about a
paired-spoke wheel? Say it ain't so, Jobst. -- Jay Beattie.

Something tells me he was being "sarcaustic" -- new word invented just for
[email hidden].

FWIW, my Bontrager wheels (RaceLites; very similar to Selects) have been
trouble-free for nearly two years now; haven't had to touch 'em.

Bill "180-plus, darn it" S.

Jay Beattie said:

Quoted message said:

Not to worry, Trek stress relieves all their wheels after

building.

Quoted message said:

They have a fixture that raises tension in each spoke by at

least 50%.

Am I dreaming? Did you say something vaguely good about a
paired-spoke wheel? Say it ain't so, Jobst. -- Jay Beattie.

Oh no! Maybe the same people that captured Peter have gotten to Jobst.

Art Harris

Get a grip fella!!

Jobst stated fact then tried to reassure the OP not to worry. If you
want to worry - go ahead. YOU also have a choice as to what you buy.

No point in confusing your issues with the OP's and then brandishing
"cutting" remarks.

How many books have you written and sold - based on your expertise of
course? I have read several books on building and maintaining bicycles,
and on things mechanical - trucks, tractors, and even cars. I am hust
wondering, as I would like to know if they are for sale and readable
(for me).

Ken
Canada

Jay Beattie said:

Am I dreaming? Did you say something vaguely good about a
paired-spoke wheel? Say it ain't so, Jobst. -- Jay Beattie.

Quoted message said:

No point in confusing your issues with the OP's and then brandishing

^^^^^
Heh heh.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

John Everett said:

My girlfriend recently ordered a new bike (Trek 1500 WSD) which comes
with Bontrager Select wheels. When she ordered the bike I asked about
exchanging the wheels for something more conventional (32 spoke, three
cross, etc.) but the shop wouldn't do it at any reasonable cost. I
figured since she doesn't weigh all that much and there seem to be
plenty of these wheels being ridden, we'll just go with the Selects.

While I've built a number of wheels they've all been either 32 or 36
spoke conventional wheels. I'm wondering if I should stress relieve,
tension, and retrue the new Selects before she rides on them. I've
never dealt with low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear) paired spoke
wheels. If I do opt to work on them is there anything specific I
should be aware of?

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Bontrager wheels are stress relieved at the factory. I wouldn't worry
about that with your GF wheels. Just ride and enjoy!

Also, there used to be a link on the Bontrager site to the dealer
instructions for (re)building Bontrager wheels. It included detailed
instructions about stress reliving using the stress box formerly known
as the Rolf box. Sorry but I can't find the link now; Bontrager have
redone their site. bontrager.com

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Not to worry, Trek stress relieves all their wheels after

building.

Quoted message said:

They have a fixture that raises tension in each spoke by at

least 50%.

Am I dreaming? Did you say something vaguely good about a
paired-spoke wheel? Say it ain't so, Jobst. -- Jay Beattie.

No, Jobst didn't say anything nice about paired-spoke wheels per se. What he
said was that Trek employs procedures while building the wheels that take
care of stress-relieving, so the shop/customer doesn't have to.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

dianne_1234 said:

... ... there used to be a link on the Bontrager site to the dealer
instructions for (re)building Bontrager wheels. It included detailed
instructions about stress reliving using the stress box formerly known
as the Rolf box.

^^^^^^^^^^
I think I had one of those in my drinking days.

Rimshot optional, BS

dianne_1234 <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

John Everett said:

My girlfriend recently ordered a new bike (Trek 1500 WSD) which comes
with Bontrager Select wheels. When she ordered the bike I asked about
exchanging the wheels for something more conventional (32 spoke, three
cross, etc.) but the shop wouldn't do it at any reasonable cost. I
figured since she doesn't weigh all that much and there seem to be
plenty of these wheels being ridden, we'll just go with the Selects.

While I've built a number of wheels they've all been either 32 or 36
spoke conventional wheels. I'm wondering if I should stress relieve,
tension, and retrue the new Selects before she rides on them. I've
never dealt with low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear) paired spoke
wheels. If I do opt to work on them is there anything specific I
should be aware of?

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Bontrager wheels are stress relieved at the factory. I wouldn't worry
about that with your GF wheels. Just ride and enjoy!

Also, there used to be a link on the Bontrager site to the dealer
instructions for (re)building Bontrager wheels. It included detailed
instructions about stress reliving using the stress box formerly known
as the Rolf box. Sorry but I can't find the link now; Bontrager have
redone their site. bontrager.com

Dear Dianne,

The stressor box stuff is still there in this .pdf file:

http://www.bontrager.com/assets/File_Listings/asset_upload_file325_970.pdf

Page 11 shows the jack screw that presses down
on all the top spokes at once when the wheel is
laid flat on a special table.

Page 12 gives the recommended degrees of rotation
for the jack screw for different wheels and different
sides.

Bontrager believes that front wheels need different
squeezing than rear wheels and that the drive side
needs much more squashing than the non-drive side.

For example, the Rolf 700c Vector Pro (the first
in the table) is supposed to take 413 degrees of
jack screw rotation on both sides of the front
wheel, 565 degrees for the drive-side ("right
up"😉, and only 140 degrees for the non-drive-side
("left up"😉.

The absurdity of the precision involved is shown
by the next entry, which states that the Siestre
non-drive-side ("left up"😉 needs only 139 degrees,
not 140.

The "stressor" is Bontrager part number 70042. They
don't seem to be selling it to the public.

Carl Fogel

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

Am I dreaming? Did you say something vaguely good about a
paired-spoke wheel? Say it ain't so, Jobst. -- Jay Beattie.

No he didn't. He said something good about the wheel build process.
---------------
Alex

"Ken Pisichko" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Get a grip fella!!

Jobst stated fact then tried to reassure the OP not to worry.

If you

Quoted message said:

want to worry - go ahead. YOU also have a choice as to what

you buy.

Quoted message said:

No point in confusing your issues with the OP's and then

brandishing

Quoted message said:

"cutting" remarks.

How many books have you written and sold - based on your

expertise of

Quoted message said:

course? I have read several books on building and maintaining

bicycles,

Quoted message said:

and on things mechanical - trucks, tractors, and even cars. I

am hust

Quoted message said:

wondering, as I would like to know if they are for sale and

readable

Quoted message said:

(for me).

Ken, Jobst endorsing paired spoke wheels is about as likely as
the Pope dating Sinead O'Connor. I do appreciate Jobst's plug
for the Trek manufacturing process, though, and the Bontrager
wheels do have a good reputation. BTW, John was not looking for
reassurance -- he has been around too long to need that. He was
looking for tips on truing the wheels, which Carl addressed. To
the extent John needs reassurance after my post, here it is:
John, it's all right, man. And we forgive you for allowing your
girlfriend to buy paired spoke wheels. -- Jay Beattie.

On 17 Feb 2005 23:22:32 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

Quoted message said:

The stressor box stuff is still there in this .pdf file:

http://www.bontrager.com/assets/File_Listings/asset_upload_file325_970.pdf

Thanks Carl! I'll have to bookmark that.

Quoted message said:

Page 11 shows the jack screw that presses down
on all the top spokes at once when the wheel is
laid flat on a special table.

Page 12 gives the recommended degrees of rotation
for the jack screw for different wheels and different
sides.

Bontrager believes that front wheels need different
squeezing than rear wheels and that the drive side
needs much more squashing than the non-drive side.

Is it the other way around? The table supporting the rim has a hole in
it, so if the press is pushing down on the hub with the "right side
up", then the tension increase is in the left side spokes, no?

Quoted message said:

For example, the Rolf 700c Vector Pro (the first
in the table) is supposed to take 413 degrees of
jack screw rotation on both sides of the front
wheel, 565 degrees for the drive-side ("right
up"😉, and only 140 degrees for the non-drive-side
("left up"😉.

The absurdity of the precision involved is shown
by the next entry, which states that the Siestre
non-drive-side ("left up"😉 needs only 139 degrees,
not 140.

Surely it needn't be that precise!? Perhaps they were in a hurry and
didn't take the time to "round" each entry to a simpler number... :-)

Quoted message said:

The "stressor" is Bontrager part number 70042. They
don't seem to be selling it to the public.

Thanks for the part number. Do you think a shop could buy one for
resale if an individual were interested? Or alternatively, it might
not be hard for someone handy with woodworking tools to make one. I
imagine the jack screw must have some standard (Acme?) thread, so if
the pitch were known the "degrees" in the table could be converted
into linear travel.

dianne_1234 said:

On 17 Feb 2005 23:22:32 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

Quoted message said:

The stressor box stuff is still there in this .pdf file:

http://www.bontrager.com/assets/File_Listings/asset_upload_file325_970.pdf

Thanks Carl! I'll have to bookmark that.

Quoted message said:

Page 11 shows the jack screw that presses down
on all the top spokes at once when the wheel is
laid flat on a special table.

Page 12 gives the recommended degrees of rotation
for the jack screw for different wheels and different
sides.

Bontrager believes that front wheels need different
squeezing than rear wheels and that the drive side
needs much more squashing than the non-drive side.

Is it the other way around? The table supporting the rim has a hole in
it, so if the press is pushing down on the hub with the "right side
up", then the tension increase is in the left side spokes, no?

Quoted message said:

For example, the Rolf 700c Vector Pro (the first
in the table) is supposed to take 413 degrees of
jack screw rotation on both sides of the front
wheel, 565 degrees for the drive-side ("right
up"😉, and only 140 degrees for the non-drive-side
("left up"😉.

The absurdity of the precision involved is shown
by the next entry, which states that the Siestre
non-drive-side ("left up"😉 needs only 139 degrees,
not 140.

Surely it needn't be that precise!? Perhaps they were in a hurry and
didn't take the time to "round" each entry to a simpler number... :-)

Quoted message said:

The "stressor" is Bontrager part number 70042. They
don't seem to be selling it to the public.

Thanks for the part number. Do you think a shop could buy one for
resale if an individual were interested? Or alternatively, it might
not be hard for someone handy with woodworking tools to make one. I
imagine the jack screw must have some standard (Acme?) thread, so if
the pitch were known the "degrees" in the table could be converted
into linear travel.

Dear Dianne,

The stressor box could work the other way around, but I
think (sometimes spelled "guess"😉 that "right up" means that
the right-drive-side is facing upward and staring fearfully
at the underside of the screw-jack overhead, while the
left-side axle and hub are facing downward and braced in a
holder in the middle of the table, with the left-side spokes
blissfully uninvolved and indifferent to the fate of their
friends on the upper side of the wheel.

The big plastic cup in the middle of the screw-jack then
presses down (I think) on the uppermost right-side spokes,
stretching them all by pushing them inward.

It seems to make sense to recommend turning the screw jack
less and not pushing the cup down so far on the flattened
drive-side spokes.

In theory, the steeper the cone-like fan of spokes is
(non-drive-side), the farther you'd have to squash a cup
down on them to get the same amount of spoke-stretch as the
same cup-travel would produce on a flattened fan of spokes
(drive side).

That is, if you exaggerate the non-drive side into a furled
umbrella, you can push the cup over the top and all the way
down to the handle without bending and stretching the ribs
of the umbrella. If you exaggerate the flatter drive side
into a wide-open umbrella, pressing a cup down on top only a
little ways will bend hell out of the umbrella ribs.

(Pause for wild thoughts about whether rec.umbrellas.tech
has the answers that I long for about stress-relief--"The
Collapsible Rain Umbrella," 3rd edition, by Joseph B. St.
Marque!)

As for whether stressor boxes are for sale, I come from a
culture ruled by Jimmy Breslin's comment about the corrupt
New York City police station, where everything was for sale
except the captain's bowling trophy.

I found nothing in Sheldon's web site, Loose Screws, or
BikeToolsEtc, but maybe Andrew Muzi, John Dacey, or some
catalogue sells the Bontrager Stressor box to the public?

There's also a retro-fit kit for the stressor box, listed at
the end of that pdf file, but I have no idea what it does.

If I wanted one of these things, I'd start by simply
emailing Bontrager and finding out if a) they still make
'em, and b) how much, including shipping? If they said that
yes, they sell 'em, but no, not to the likes of you, then
I'd start sneaking around the internet and asking Bontrager
dealers if they'd be willing to order one and pass it on, or
even get rid of an old one gathering dust.

Unfortunately, as a helpless slave to several collecting
passions, I have to warn you that this approach of asking
innocently for a price is not too different from sprinkling
blood on the water in a shark tank--you may get some
breathtaking prices for large, simple device that a mildly
handy machinist could fabricate quickly, easily, and
cheaply.

If you knew the thread pitch, the size of the cup that
presses on the spokes, and whether I'm right about the axle
on the wheel's underside being fixed, I suspect that you
could get someone to make you a stressor box or do it
yourself. But I'd try to find one first and see it in action
before I let my acquisitive urges overwhelm me.

Carl Fogel

Quoted message said:

The stressor box could work the other way around, but I
think (sometimes spelled "guess"😉 that "right up" means that
the right-drive-side is facing upward and staring fearfully
at the underside of the screw-jack overhead, while the
left-side axle and hub are facing downward and braced in a
holder in the middle of the table, with the left-side spokes
blissfully uninvolved and indifferent to the fate of their
friends on the upper side of the wheel.

The big plastic cup in the middle of the screw-jack then
presses down (I think) on the uppermost right-side spokes,
stretching them all by pushing them inward.

If you had ever seen a hub on which a flange has separated
you'd know that the closer the spokes move to the center,
the less tension.

Holding a wheel by the rim and pressing on the axle will
loosen the spokes on the pressed side and tighten them on
the side moving away from the center.

I can't help you get a box -see any Trek dealer.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Quoted message said:

Dear Dianne,

I've looked at the pdf file again and magnified and re-read
the text . . . and I now think (no guarantee) that you're
right and that I was wrong.

I leapt to the conclusion that the axle/hub on the underside
was supporting things in step 2, where it says "Center the
wheel over the hole in the base of the stressor box"--I was
thinking of a small hole, not a nearly wheel-sized hole,
which is what I kinda-sorta think is there when I blow the
picture up a lot.

Carl: As owner & operator of one of the devices in question, I'm considering
setting up a real-time show on the 'net and charging admission... seems like
a lot of people are interested in seeing one in action. And for an
additional fee, we could arrange to run the tension to the point of
destruction, just for fun!

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

dianne_1234 said:

On 17 Feb 2005 23:22:32 -0800, [email hidden] (Carl Fogel)

Quoted message said:

The stressor box stuff is still there in this .pdf file:

http://www.bontrager.com/assets/File_Listings/asset_upload_file325_970.pdf

Thanks Carl! I'll have to bookmark that.

Quoted message said:

Page 11 shows the jack screw that presses down
on all the top spokes at once when the wheel is
laid flat on a special table.

Page 12 gives the recommended degrees of rotation
for the jack screw for different wheels and different
sides.

Bontrager believes that front wheels need different
squeezing than rear wheels and that the drive side
needs much more squashing than the non-drive side.

Is it the other way around? The table supporting the rim has a hole in
it, so if the press is pushing down on the hub with the "right side
up", then the tension increase is in the left side spokes, no?

Quoted message said:

For example, the Rolf 700c Vector Pro (the first
in the table) is supposed to take 413 degrees of
jack screw rotation on both sides of the front
wheel, 565 degrees for the drive-side ("right
up"😉, and only 140 degrees for the non-drive-side
("left up"😉.

The absurdity of the precision involved is shown
by the next entry, which states that the Siestre
non-drive-side ("left up"😉 needs only 139 degrees,
not 140.

Surely it needn't be that precise!? Perhaps they were in a hurry and
didn't take the time to "round" each entry to a simpler number... :-)

Quoted message said:

The "stressor" is Bontrager part number 70042. They
don't seem to be selling it to the public.

Thanks for the part number. Do you think a shop could buy one for
resale if an individual were interested? Or alternatively, it might
not be hard for someone handy with woodworking tools to make one. I
imagine the jack screw must have some standard (Acme?) thread, so if
the pitch were known the "degrees" in the table could be converted
into linear travel.

Dear Dianne,

I've looked at the pdf file again and magnified and re-read
the text . . . and I now think (no guarantee) that you're
right and that I was wrong.

I leapt to the conclusion that the axle/hub on the underside
was supporting things in step 2, where it says "Center the
wheel over the hole in the base of the stressor box"--I was
thinking of a small hole, not a nearly wheel-sized hole,
which is what I kinda-sorta think is there when I blow the
picture up a lot.

If I'd kept reading without switching my brain off, step 3
clearly says that the PVC "cup rests firmly against the hub"
and must therefore not be pushing the uppermost spokes.

So the spokes on the underside are getting stretched as the
hub is pushed down and the wheel rim rests on the table.

The idea (I think) is still to push the conical
non-drive-side farther than the flattened drive-side.

With "right up" the flattened drive-side is uppermost and
not stretched. The lower non-drive side hanging in the well
on the table is pushed down farther, say 400+ degrees of
jack screw rotation.

Flip the wheel with the conical non-drive-side uppermost
("left up"😉 and the recommendation is to use only 140
degrees of jackscrew rotation to push the flattened
drive-side spokes on the bottom only a little bit into the
well of the table.

Dyslexically,

Carl Fogel

A Muzi said:

Quoted message said:

The stressor box could work the other way around, but I
think (sometimes spelled "guess"😉 that "right up" means that
the right-drive-side is facing upward and staring fearfully
at the underside of the screw-jack overhead, while the
left-side axle and hub are facing downward and braced in a
holder in the middle of the table, with the left-side spokes
blissfully uninvolved and indifferent to the fate of their
friends on the upper side of the wheel.

The big plastic cup in the middle of the screw-jack then
presses down (I think) on the uppermost right-side spokes,
stretching them all by pushing them inward.

If you had ever seen a hub on which a flange has separated
you'd know that the closer the spokes move to the center,
the less tension.

Holding a wheel by the rim and pressing on the axle will
loosen the spokes on the pressed side and tighten them on
the side moving away from the center.

I can't help you get a box -see any Trek dealer.

Dear Andrew,

I was wrong about how the box works (see other post), but I
think that you may be wrong here becaused the flange hasn't
separated, and I was (mistakenly) thinking of a bigger cup.

It's only the mid-section of the spokes that would move
toward the center in my mistaken notion--the ends are still
anchored at both ends to the hub and rim.

edges of big cup pushing down on spokes
| |
| .-------. |
V . | . V uppermost spokes
. | . stretch
. | .
|||| rim |||||||||||||||||||||||||
. | .
. ___|__ . lower spokes
hub braced slacken
on table

The real box seems to work in the opposite fashion:

edges of small cup pushing down on hub
| |
V V
.-------.
. | . uppermost spokes
. | . slacken
. | .
|||| rim |||||||||||||||||||||||||
TTT. | .TTT--rim braced on table
. ___|__ .
hub hanging lwer spokes stretch
free in well of box

Despite my misunderstanding, I think that either way
works--but I suspect that the Bontrager box approach has all
sorts of practical advantages--even a small PVC cup would
probably fail pressing against thin spokes instead of the
solid face of a hub.

My way actually resembles Jobst's hand spoke-squeezing more,
in that the spokes would bending slightly in the middle,
while the Bontrager method stretches one side in a straight
line.

Either way, the rim moves to one side relative to the hub,
tightening one set of spokes and loosening the other

It would be interesting if anyone knew how much tension was
actually applied to each spoke. At first glance, the
Bontrager tables suggest that the company believes in wildly
different amounts of stretch for front, drive, and non-drive
spokes, but it may be that the overly precise figures about
how far to turn the jack-screw work out to about the same
added tension because of the dishing of the wheels.

Again, there's no question that I had it ass-backwards at
first.

Carl Fogel

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 07:02:44 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
<[email hidden]> wrote:

[snip]

Quoted message said:

Carl: As owner & operator of one of the devices in question, I'm considering
setting up a real-time show on the 'net and charging admission... seems like
a lot of people are interested in seeing one in action. And for an
additional fee, we could arrange to run the tension to the point of
destruction, just for fun!

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

[snip]

Dear Mike,

Just to stress . . .

Er, that is, just to emphasize the obvious, I was wrong and
Dianne was right, wasn't she?

Jackscrew presses cup down onto uppermost hub flange, rim
sits on table with big hole in middle, spokes on bottom
stretch downward into a well, right?

Any chance of measuring the threads per inch on the jack
screw in case Dianne wants to try cobbling together her own
stretcher?

And any chance of hanging a tensiometer on a spoke to see
how high the tension rises?

(I don't know what to think about spoke-stretching, but I do
know that the details are interesting.)

Carl Fogel