Bike buying advice · Public discussion

New guy to racing

Started by Reins · · Last activity · 30 posts · 4,965 views

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Bike buying advice
Published
17 August 2006
Last activity
10 October 2006
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Reins
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  1. I'm new to the sport but really like it so far. I am by heart a long distance runner and do well and for my teams training we did a triathlon which I got first in, but only because I had to pull in running and swimming. I need a better bike.

    If you guys could recommend a 450 dollar max (I know not much but I'm still getting into it) race/tri bike new or used that would be great. I looked at the Fuji newest 4.0 just to give you an idea of what I'm looking at, but if I could find a higher quality bike for the same cash just used I'm up for that too.

    If you could recommend some names to look out for on eBay or new bikes that would help me out a lot, you guys are the experts.

    -reins

  2. Reins said:

    If you guys could recommend a 450 dollar max race/tri bike new or used that would be great.


    [img]foolserrand.combadgolfersBike.jpg[/img]

  3. Lol thanks for the advice, great post!🙄

    The mods are nice here, you would receive a nice boot on other forums.

    Right, so if anyone here has a real suggestion for a 17 year old looking to get into the sport who doesn't make a lot of money that would be great. I came to this forum for advice and I have gotten none, yeah good first impression wh0areume. It appears some people forgot where they started...

    From what I hear the trek 1000 is a nice bike and can be picked up reasonably. Input, advice,

    Thanks
    reins

  4. Reins said:

    Lol thanks for the advice, great post!🙄

    The mods are nice here, you would receive a nice boot on other forums.

    Right, so if anyone here has a real suggestion for a 17 year old looking to get into the sport who doesn't make a lot of money that would be great. I came to this forum for advice and I have gotten none, yeah good first impression wh0areume. It appears some people forgot where they started...

    From what I hear the trek 1000 is a nice bike and can be picked up reasonably. Input, advice,

    Thanks
    reins


    The Felt F100 is a good cheap bike. It costs $800 Australian which is probably 550-600 US but I'm not sure. The Giant OCR3 is slightly more dear than that. These are the two cheaper entry-level bikes that I've heard the most good things about. You should be able to catch one or two second hand for the price you specified.

  5. Thanks I've found some nice Giants OCR3's slightly above my range but I can push it a bit in my area but the Felts don't seem to be here.

  6. Giant OCR's are not good for use in a triathlon anyway because of the compact frame and the angles associated with that. You'd be much better suited to looking in another direction, even Giant recommend you dont use their OCR range in a triathlon situation.

  7. Right so I've upped my budget to 900 which still isn't a lot to you guys with real jobs but like I've said I'm 17. I'm also the first one in my family going into this sport so I have nothing to go off and nothing given so I could use your guy's help some more. Thanks for what you said so far.

    This is what I'm looking at right now and I need more advice
    Felt F90 for 600USD penncycle.comitemdetails.cfm

    Trek 1000 for 650USD
    penncycle.comitemdetails.cfm

    Trek 1200 for 830USD
    penncycle.comitemdetails.cfm

    Which is a better bike, the Felt F90 or the Trek 1000? Next does the extra cost of the trek 1200 justify its cost over the 1000/F90. I'm a 60CM so I'm having some trouble finding a used bike, but I'm going to keep my eye open a bit longer. I have to leave around 100 in the bank for some aero bars or not it the bike comes with them. So figure about 800-900 on the bike (I can push a little this is already way over budget :o)

    another thing I noticed was that all of those bikes have triple cranks which I don't really want. Can I change that from the factory or would I have to change it myself later? Lastly what would be the best bang for the buck upgrade later to take off some weight? I'm 130LBS so I can't take much more weight off me, would lighter wheels be best to take off rotational weight or something else?

    Lastly lastly do you think the prices on bikes will go down as we get into September? When do sales usually start going on?

    If there are any other bikes you can suggest go ahead and shoot. If you would recommend looking for something used still say that too.

    Thanks again guys.

  8. You'd really be better off buying the best USED bike you can for 900$.
    If you go new, you're going to get a bunch of [censored] components for that price.

    It doesnt even have to be USED - you can get a model for much cheaper if it's a few years old at a bike shop.

  9. Reins said:

    another thing I noticed was that all of those bikes have triple cranks which I don't really want. Can I change that from the factory or would I have to change it myself later? Lastly what would be the best bang for the buck upgrade later to take off some weight? I'm 130LBS so I can't take much more weight off me, would lighter wheels be best to take off rotational weight or something else?

    Lastly lastly do you think the prices on bikes will go down as we get into September? When do sales usually start going on?

    You are not going to find even an entry-level real triathlon bike for less than $1200. Working within your budget, the best you can do is a road bike with clip-on aero bars. Most entry level road bikes (those less than $1200) only come with triples. A good LBS will give you a good deal on a swap to a double, but that is money you would be better off putting somewhere else. You are correct that going to lighter wheels is the best place to save weight, but the wheels alone are going to take half of your budget.

    Sales are going on now, since the 2007 models came out a few weeks ago.

    I do not think there is much real difference between the Felt f90 and the Trek 1000. Whichever one fits you best is the better bike for you. I really do not think the Trek 1200 is worth that much more than the Trek 1000. Other bikes you might consider are the Specialized Allez (MSRP $710 - If the LBS has any 2006 models left, you might be able to pick one up for about $650) and the LeMond Reno. Again, these are not significantly different from the Felt f90 or Trek 1000 except, perhaps, in how they feel to you. Buy the one that feels best.

    Within your price range, you are going to get an Asian-made aluminum frame with Sora or Tiagra components, and relatively heavy wheels. The only real difference among the bikes at this price point will be in the frame geometry and the look. Quality will be the same, regardless of brand. Buy what feels right to you. If you want to put $350 to $450 in wheel upgrades in a year or two, that will make a difference in performance.

  10. Thank you Rick and wh0areume I am keeping my eyes open, I would much rather have a used bike then a new one but I also don't want to wait until X-mas for the "perfect deal" I live in Minnesota and still want to get some miles on it before my downhill ski season starts. Clip on bars is what I'm planning to get and I've set aside cash for them.

    Thanks for all of your help and working with my budget I may have some more questions later and I will keep you posted.

    Aside from lighter wheels would you say that the next best performance up grade would be some clipless pedals and shoes?

  11. Reins said:

    Aside from lighter wheels would you say that the next best performance up grade would be some clipless pedals and shoes?

    Clipless pedals and shoes come before the lighter wheels or a double crank. You can probably get by for about $55 for the pedals and $70 for the shoes. It is no problem buying pedals from e-Bay, but I would definitely buy shoes locally. You need to try them on to find ones that are comfortable for you.

  12. I've done some thinking and I've come to the decision that I do not have enough money to compete at the level that I want to and anything less then what I want is a waste of money in my opinion. The season is almost over I'm going to make some more money over the winter come back in the spring ready to spend around 1400 which will get my criteria which I have set down for myself. That's at least the feeling that I'm getting from you guys. The ideal bike would be a Felt F75. I think that is enough to get me at a point where I feel that I don't have to buy upgrades for my bike. I think if I bought a trek 1000 or something of the likes I'd be happy for awhile but eventually I'd spend around 1000+USD on a new group set, wheel set, aero bars and pedals. I'd rather save my money a little longer and get it for less from the manufacturer. I know I could race with a trek 1000 but I wouldn’t be happy with it. Don’t feel like you have scared me away from the sport I still love it, you are just helping me spend my money in the best way I can right now. So I’ll stick around on these forums and keep learning over the winter and hopefully in the spring I’ll be able to post a picture of my new baby. In the mean time I'll keep running and work out/swim/ski over the winter which is enough to keep me busy.

    I'm still going to keep my eyes open for used deals on ebay and craigslist but as of right now this is the plan. I've found my selection is limited though because I am a 60cm and most are 54cm/56cm but the search will go on.

    Thanks all for your help

  13. As disappointing as this must be for you, I think you have made the correct decision. Remember that you still will need to set aside $150 to $200 for pedals and shoes, and unless you buy a true Triatlhlon/Time trial bike, $50 to $100 for aero bars.

    In addition to the Felt f75, other bikes you might consider at that price point are true triathlon bikes like the Quintana Roo Trueno, the Specialized Transition, and the Felt s32. Other road bikes to consider are the Specialized Allez, the Trek 1500, and the LeMond Tourmalet.

    Whether you get a triathlon bike or a road bike depends on what you want from the bike. If you only want the bike to train for and compete in triathlons, then the triathlon bike might be the way to go. If you want to try your hand at road racing and group rides, then the road bike with clip on aero bars is the way to go. Aero bikes are illegal in road races and dangerous, even if not outright banned, in group rides.

  14. I think I can get by on a regular bike with clip on aero bars and from what I've read the Felt F75 is one of the more stable road bikes with aero bars, however I will take your advice and remove them when in a group. What I want from the bike is a bike that I can use to compete in road races and tri's, I think I can get away with both on a road bike.

    Yes it is dissapointing, but I know that an investment of this much money shouldn't be rushed and I'm glad you agree with me.

    At this point I plan to just ask for money for christmas which should give me about 500USD or more, then I'll take that money and the money I'll make this summer/fall mowing lawns to use for bike (I should have over 1100USD when the lawn mowing season is over) So that will give me 1600 to blow on my bike and parts. Then I will use the money I make at my winter job to have a life (movies, beef jerky w/e)

    BTW I'm still trying to sell off some of my race BMX's does anyone know a good place to try and sell bikes other then eBay and craigslist?

  15. I road tonight with a fellow who put aero bars on a Specialized Roubaix. I also ride a Roubaix, but that would not have been my first choice for a bike with aero bars. I bought the roubaix to be more upright than I would have been on the Allez. Despite the bike not being one I would have considered for aero bars, he was very pleased with his.

    The Felt f75 is a good choice. I agree that the more aggressive geometry will lend itself well to aero bars. You also get a pretty big bang for the buck when it comes to components on the Felt. The only knock I have ever heard about Felt is that to make the price point with the upgraded components, they skimp on wheels and tires. Everything in life is a compromise. In another year you will have saved enough to put on lighter wheels and tires. I still think that is the best way to go if you like the feel of the Felt. I found it too aggressive, but then, I am 54 years old. Twenty years ago I would have loved it.

  16. I did some research on the felt wheels compared to other wheels in the Felt F75 price range (1400ish) It does seem that they skimp on wheels a little at a 1884g wheel set but compared to the trek 2100 it is on track with their quality weight.

    Quick question,

    Are aluminum bikes more responsive then CF bikes in that they have harsher ride? Like with cars a rigid car handles better then a luxury car because they are more rigid and minimize body roll. Am I correct with this or just insane?

  17. Reins said:

    IAre aluminum bikes more responsive then CF bikes in that they have harsher ride? Like with cars a rigid car handles better then a luxury car because they are more rigid and minimize body roll. Am I correct with this or just insane?

    You are not insane, but only partially correct. Flex can diminish accelleration, and stiffness can cause a harsher ride, but a bike does not have to be harsh to be responsive.

    One major difference between aluminum and carbon fiber is that aluminum is stiff equally in all directions. Carbon fiber is stiff only in one direction. By orienting the strands of the carbon in specific directions, it is possible to make a frame that is stiff and responsive where it counts (e.g., the bottom bracket and chain stays) so that all of the energy going into the crank is used to turn the wheel instead of being wasted on lateral movement of the frame, but still flexible in areas that improve comfort but have little bearing on efficiency (e.g., the fork and seat stays).

    There is also a difference in preception that might not be real. A harsher bike might seem faster, but it is difficult to prove that it actually is faster. If, for example, a harsh bike causes the wheel to bounce, the time that the wheel is in contact with the road surface is decreased; thus, while the transfer of energy from the crank to the wheel might have improved, the transfer of that energy from the wheel to the road is diminished. On a softer bike, there might be some loss of energy between the crank and wheel, but no loss of energy between the wheel and road. The harsher bike will seem faster, but the softer bike might actually be faster. The reality, though, is that there likely will not be any difference in speed between the two bikes.

    Esse Quam Videri (to be rather than to seem - state motto of North Carolina

    What does make a difference in responsiveness, though, is the rotational mass of the wheel. It is extremely easy to show that my carbon fiber Specialized Roubaix Elite is much more responsive than my aluminum Specialized Crossroads Elite. The heavy frame of the Crossroads is much stiffer than the light carbon fiber frame of the Roubaix, but the wheels on the Roubaix weigh less than one-third of what the wheels on the Crossroads do. Even though there might be some loss of energy between the crank and wheel on the Roubaix, it takes so much less energy to get those wheels spinning compared to the Crossroads that the Roubaix is far more responsive.

    All of the above notwithstanding, when it comes to road racing, and especially triathlons, the two biggest robbers of speed and energy are wind resistance and fatigue. An excessively harsh ride will contribute greatly to the fatigue factor and far more than offset any potential gains in responsiveness. Responsiveness is only important in accelleration. Most of a triathlon ride or a road race is endurance. If aluminum (or steel or titanium) was better overall, then the pro tour riders would be using aluminum (or steel or titanium). The fact is, though, that very few pro tour riders use anything other than carbon fiber.

  18. Does anyone know anything about these bikes?

    http://www.epxbikes.com/

  19. I race tri's with a Trek 1500 (105/ultegra) w/ profile design aero bars... So far it's done well for me. You could pick up the same set-up used, or simply with old graphics for about 1100 US if you searched around... Who knows, even less probably.

  20. I wouldn't quit because you have a limited budget, the most important thing is to take care of the rider.

    Pick up an older racer (on ebay or off a mate) that is the correct frame size, put some good tyres, get some cleated pedals and buy some stiff shoes that fit your feet comfortably while not letting them move around.

    Don't get hung up about frame materials. Each material has it pros and cons, so it really depends on how well the frame manufacturer capitalised on the qualities of that material. There are some steel frame bikes out there that are of very high quality and there are some carbon bikes out there that are poor quality.

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