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New Frame Advice?

Started by Sam123 · · Last activity · 26 posts · 2,644 views

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Bike buying advice
Published
30 June 2010
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6 July 2010
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Sam123
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  1. Sam123 said:

    Why?

    There about £100+ lol

    Well, I'm certainly not the arbiter of how someone else should spend his/her money ...

    BUT, the short answer is that at the moment you are only 16, and I can't believe that you aren't going to grow two-to-six more inches than you currently are in the next four years. You are probably going to be at least an inch taller at the end of this Summer! So, the carefully structured fitting probably won't be valid sooner-rather-than later.

    Now, if I had a lower back pain when riding, I would trundle off to the library to see if any of the suggestions in Arnie Baker's book (BICYCLING MEDICINE) work, first ...

    OR, I would possibly make an appointment with a chiropractor and have him/her explain what I am doing incorrectly with regard to my posture OR if there is something I (meaning, you) could do to mitigate the adverse effects of a possible, underlying structural problem with my (meaning, your) body which is affecting my standing & sitting posture.

    As far as frame fitting ...

    Unless you get a custom frame, at your height you just need to buy the largest off-the-peg frame that you can buy ...

    I think that the typical/standard Road frame will not have a top tube longer than 59cm ... that will probably work for someone your height, but (again) I can't believe that you aren't going to grow two-to-six more inches than you currently are in the next four years!

    The OPTION which I would probably be looking at if I were as tall as you are (I'm not ... I'm 5'9"😉 would be to buy an X-Large Hardtail frame (yes, a MTB frame) which will probably have a 60cm-to-62cm virtual top tube ...

    I think the ORBEA Alma was/is a CF Hardtail. SETTE is a sold-in-America frame "brand" which are undoubtedly fabricated in China ... the unlabeled equivalent can be bought through eBay & will be shipped Worldwide.

    Then, I would put an ALPHA Q Road fork on it (see attachment for an example of a MTB frame which I converted with spare parts that I had) because it is what I already have ... BUT, initially, the fork from your Claude Butler will certainly work.
    [INDENT]FYI. I needed to enlarge the non-caliper side of the fender/brake mounting hole on the seat stay bridge to accept a recessed brake nut & I installed a long reach Tektro caliper (front & rear). The "reach" on whatever Hardtail a person chooses might require a caliper with a longer reach OR a regular road caliper might work ... each frame is different.
    [/INDENT]
    The ONLY (?) problems with the configuration are that:

    • the BB is probably about 6mm higher (I've never bothered to actually measure it) which isn't really a problem
    • I needed to lace a road rim onto a 135mm hub
    • I needed to use a 118mm spindle that is normally used for a triple to provide chainring clearance (the crank that is pictured is an ISIS, but I've subsequently changed it to an Octalink & 118mm Octalink BB) ... some MTB frames may be able to use a standard length BB spindle, particularly since 2x10 MTB drivetrains are now in vogue.

    The longer chainstay is a bonus, IMO, because it really takes the edge off of road irregularities.

    The higher BB takes about 30 seconds (or, less!) to get used to ... and, for a taller rider, it would expedite using longer-than-175mm cranks.

    [CENTER]--[/CENTER]

    As far as so-called professional frame fits, for the longest time, and presumably-and-possibly ongoing, the tendency is to position a rider using KOPS as a guide. Keith Bontrager (yes, the namesake for BONTRAGER components) discounts KOPS as the universal position for all riders -- I agree.

    A young fitter might want you to have a lower stem/handlebar as a default position because THAT is how s/he has her/his bike set up ...

    Or, an older fart may think you should set your bike up the way Pedersen of Rivendell thinks the handlbar/stem should be set up (i.e., more-or-less at the same height as the saddle, as I recall) ... echoes of how frames were fit decades ago.

    One bike shop that is local to me which uses the super-duper, SEROTTA Personal Fit System SizeCycle gizmo & undoubtedly incorporate Serotta's philosphy tends to fit frames the way Pedersen suggests ...

    People I know who have bought bikes from that shop rolled out the door with a bike that is probably one frame size larger than the rider might get from another shop-and-fitter using the same system.

    Do their bikes fit?

    Well, that's open to debate.

    People who have bought bikes from that shop have subsequently tweaked the fit ... that's not uncommon, BUT one would think that it shouldn't be necessay if the professional fitting had been as meaningful as it is purported to be ... OR, you hope it will be.

    Serotta's frame fitting gizmo (there must be others out there) can certainly expedite sizing a frame ... BUT, some of the fitting undoubtedly will incorporate the component choices which the rider thinks s/he should have ...

    Two of the fore mentioned people arbitrarily (IMO) decided that they wanted to use 172.5mm cranks ... so, the fitting at the fore mentioned shop on the super-duper gizmo were based on 172.5mm cranks regardless of whether or not 172.5mm is the best size for each rider -- unlikely since one of the two is about 5'10+" & the other is about 5'8+". The guy who is 5'10" was fitted with a 58cm Kestrel ... the size frame that a slightly taller rider would certainly choose.

    What's wrong with THAT picture?

    BTW. The first bike I was sold by a bike shop (a long, long time ago ... before frame fitting was even a concept and even before gauging standover height as a basis for sizing frames) was a 60cm (!) Gitane ... I'm 5'9". Okay, back then, the top tubes were often the same length (~57cm), and the stem was the variable. 20 years earlier, they probably would have sold a larger frame to someone my size ...

    Fortunately for me, what I now deem to be the accidental sizing actually worked for me because the particular frame size came with a 90mm stem.

    My brother, who is about an inch taller than I am, had a ~53cm frame at the time because HE independently chose the frame size -- at the time, I couldn't imagine riding a frame which was THAT SMALL, but my current frames approximately that size!

    Sizing & Fitting, at its best, isn't cut-and-dried ... and, for someone who hasn't finished growing, it seems as though you can spend your money in better ways.

  2. Sam123 said:

    RITCHEY Carbon Stem - Google Product Search

    Yes, and no ...

    My Ritchey stems are alloy ... so, that's my point of reference.

    The only stem I have with ANY CF is an FSA stem ... and, the only part that is CF is the face plate.

    I think you are too fixated on CF at the moment ...

    Until your riding exceeds 50+ miles a day, 6+ days a week, I think that you will find that a good alloy frame which is set up with the same wheels & components as a CF frame will probably have the same ride characteristics as the CF frames if the frame's geometry is the same BECAUSE contemporary CF frames appear to be engineered to replicate the ride of an alloy frame vs. 10 years ago when the ride of a CF frame often replicated the ride characteristics of a good steel frame. Said another way, a well engineered alloy frame set up the same as a CF frame shouldn't beat you up any more than the CF frame would.

    A CF frame will weigh about a pound less than an alloy frame & two-or-more pounds less than a steel frame ... that lighter weight is certainly a benefit which has some cachet in some circles ...

    Back to the stem selection, I think you may want to save some money & simply consider an alloy stem regardless of which handlebar you choose to use ...

    There will be plenty of opportunities in the future for you to gussy up your bike(s) with CF this-or-that.

  3. alfeng said:

    ... (see attachment for an example of a MTB frame which I converted with spare parts that I had) because it is what I already have ...

    Somehow, the attachment got dropped!

    Although my Hardtail probably looks like an over-sized BMX bike frame, a larger sized MTB Hardtail frame won't.

  4. Sam, I'm avoiding your question to make a suggestion. When you order a frame online and build it up yourself, you've got all kinds of worries like what size of components will fit and work best, what the actual geometry will be, how much to spend on each of many component and wheels, what tools and instructions will be needed to assemble correctly, etc.

    It may look like you're saving money over an LBS bike by ordering a bargain frame and building it up, but by the time you're done, it's hard to beat the big-name brands from a LBS. Plus, with a good LBS sales person, you should be put on a properly-sized bike prior to your test ride. You'll have the bike tuned-up correctdly from the start as well as after the sale when little stuff goes wrong. You'll have an all-new bike with components and wheels selected by the manufacturer to be the best value, and you'll have a warranty.

    Suggest you go to all the LBS you can, see what sizes they put you on, and test ride as many as possible. Find out what feels good to you and what bike you like best. You might even be surprised to get a good discount off retail...it is getting late in the season.

  5. dhk2 said:

    Sam, I'm avoiding your question to make a suggestion. When you order a frame online and build it up yourself, you've got all kinds of worries like what size of components will fit and work best, what the actual geometry will be, how much to spend on each of many component and wheels, what tools and instructions will be needed to assemble correctly, etc.

    It may look like you're saving money over an LBS bike by ordering a bargain frame and building it up, but by the time you're done, it's hard to beat the big-name brands from a LBS. Plus, with a good LBS sales person, you should be put on a properly-sized bike prior to your test ride. You'll have the bike tuned-up correctdly from the start as well as after the sale when little stuff goes wrong. You'll have an all-new bike with components and wheels selected by the manufacturer to be the best value, and you'll have a warranty.

    Suggest you go to all the LBS you can, see what sizes they put you on, and test ride as many as possible. Find out what feels good to you and what bike you like best. You might even be surprised to get a good discount off retail...it is getting late in the season.

    Im not getting the Planet X Frame now. I said this in the other topic below.

    Quoted post said:

    Since you saying that im having second thoughts about a new frame.

    So if my Claud Butler Frame is to small/big can they adjust it with a stem and the forward/backwards of the seat to my body size? If i get the fit and it does go like that i may just buy Carbon Handlebars and Seat post and a more comfortable seat. And maybe another Stem if i need one. I'd be saving about £400 then.

    EDIT - and if i do have something wrong with my back i'll get it sorted after the fit if i still get pain after the fit.

    [LEFT]
    Read more: http://www.cyclingforums.com/road-cycling/476817-lower-back-pain-2.html#ixzz0swA8nMVG

    I need a Claud Butler Roubaix Geometry Chart, any of you seen one or can find one?
    [/LEFT]

  6. Sam123 said:

    I need a Claud Butler Roubaix Geometry Chart, any of you seen one or can find one?

    You've got the bike ...

    You just need a tape measure + protractor to determine the frame's geometry.

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