I went into a Bike shop the other day asking about chain replacement and was told that if you change your chain when it is 3/4 worn (on a guage) you can reuse the cassette up to 3-4 times as after 3/4 wear the chain causes much more damage to the cassette and chainrings, and hence before 3/4 wear the cassette (and chainrings) have not had much wear as the chain has been in good shape.
Does anybody have any input on this. Is it OK to do this or should you always change the cassette at the same time as changing the chain? (and this is what most other bikeshops have told me). Manny thanks in advance.
Originally posted by Colin12 I went into a Bike shop the other day asking about chain replacement and was told that if you change your chain when it is 3/4 worn (on a guage) you can reuse the cassette up to 3-4 times as after 3/4 wear the chain causes much more damage to the cassette and chainrings, and hence before 3/4 wear the cassette (and chainrings) have not had much wear as the chain has been in good shape.
Does anybody have any input on this. Is it OK to do this or should you always change the cassette at the same time as changing the chain? (and this is what most other bikeshops have told me). Manny thanks in advance.
Two ways to do it. change neither till one or the other is wore out,then change both, as a worn out chain usually trashes the casette too.That is probably more expensive than it needs to be. Otherwise change the chain when it is partially worn(1/16" stretch in a foot),and than change casettes when a new chain skips on an old one.Done that way you may get 3 or more chains per casette.Most people don't need the expensive chains either.Middle line Srams work well and last plenty long enough.
Originally posted by boudreaux (1/16" stretch in a foot)
I replace chains at the same amount of elongation, but I won't tolerate chains with very much rust or other corrosion. I'm just now getting to my third chain on one bike with no problems. However, I recently replaced a slightly rusted chain with almost no measureable elongation with a SRAM PC-69 and was blown away by the difference it made. I like the SRAM PC-60 series chains a lot, but I must admit my shimano chains have shifted a tad better.
I ususally just replace the chain and if it skips that means it's time for a new cassette. To check wear on a chain just measure out 12 inches from the center of any pin. On a new chain you'll be exactly at the center of another pin. Once it's 1/16" or more off (from the center of a pin), it's time for a new chain. You don't need a fancy chain-wear tool.
Originally posted by Colin12 I went into a Bike shop the other day asking about chain replacement and was told that if you change your chain when it is 3/4 worn (on a guage) you can reuse the cassette up to 3-4 times as after 3/4 wear the chain causes much more damage to the cassette and chainrings, and hence before 3/4 wear the cassette (and chainrings) have not had much wear as the chain has been in good shape.
Does anybody have any input on this. Is it OK to do this or should you always change the cassette at the same time as changing the chain? (and this is what most other bikeshops have told me). Manny thanks in advance.
Others posters have already answered your questions quite well. The article Sheldon Brown is a great reference with illustrations that are very helpful: http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html Different cassettes wear at different rates. Smaller cogs tend to wear faster, especially if you ride in them often, as the load is spread across a smaller number of teeth. Shops also have gauges that can measure cog wear. When you install the new chain you can just ride it and see if it skips under high pedal pressure, or you can give it a look before "pushing it".
My LBS was trying to sell me a Park chain checker tool for about $26.95 that had a scale with .5, .75 and 1% if I recall. He said just measuring the chain wasn't good enough. I didn't buy it.
Any one else agree that measuring for 1/16" in a foot with a steel rule doesn't work well? I can't see why it wouldn't.
Originally posted by dhk My LBS was trying to sell me a Park chain checker tool for about $26.95 that had a scale with .5, .75 and 1% if I recall. He said just measuring the chain wasn't good enough. I didn't buy it.
Any one else agree that measuring for 1/16" in a foot with a steel rule doesn't work well? I can't see why it wouldn't.
Works for me and many others.Chain has to to be tensioned.
The LBS mechanic did mention that the CC-2 Park tool indicator tensions the chain automatically as you take the reading. And, it does give a quick, easy-to-read answer; probably great if you're checking chains often.
On the Park Tool website they also show a go/no-go gauge, CC-3, but don't think the LBS stocks it. One side drops into the chain at 0.75% wear, the other side indicates 1.00%.
