Martin Dann said the following on 03/01/2008 00:28:
Quoted message said:
I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised that it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove the chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the chain, wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of some chains.
Meths? You mean white spirit, surely? With the SRAM quick release link, it takes about 10 seconds to remove the chain, if that, and not much longer to refit it! Pop it in the bottle, do the shake'n'vac then hang up to dry. I relube it generously when dry, then wipe off any excess and refit.
In article <[email hidden]>, Simon Brooke [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
Martin Bulmer said:
Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the thin grease it arrived in?
The grease it comes in is penetrated into the bearings far more thoroughly than you will ever achieve again (and is also stickier, and thus will stay in longer, than anything you can get in there).
I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
What the factory uses is hot grease under pressure. You may achieve the hot grease, but you won't achieve the pressure.
In article <[email hidden]>, Simon Brooke [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
Martin Bulmer wrote:
> Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with > the thin grease it arrived in?
The grease it comes in is penetrated into the bearings far more thoroughly than you will ever achieve again (and is also stickier, and thus will stay in longer, than anything you can get in there).
I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
What the factory uses is hot grease under pressure. You may achieve the hot grease, but you won't achieve the pressure.
Maybe the factory just uses pressure to speed up the process? Perhaps the grease, if thin enough when hot, and given enough time, would eventually work its way in through capillary action? Not that I fancy trying it in my kitchen.
Another method would be to completely disassemble the chain and grease the 570 parts individually. Well, it's one way to spend the Christmas holidays - or perhaps an entire year.
I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
What the factory uses is hot grease under pressure. You may achieve the hot grease, but you won't achieve the pressure.
I don't know, there's a pressure cooker in the kitchen cupboard we never use for anything else. Stick a wodge of grease in, put the chain in, apply heat. I mean, what could possibly go wrong......
In article <[email hidden]>, Simon Brooke [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
What the factory uses is hot grease under pressure. You may achieve the hot grease, but you won't achieve the pressure.
Any air inside the chain will expand when heated and contract when cooled, so there will be some (small) pressure difference. I wonder if it would be better to boil the chain in water before sticking it in the grease bath, as the resultant pressure change due to condensation of steam on cooling would be closer to 1 atm.
Rob Morley said the following on 03/01/2008 14:33:
Quoted message said:
Any air inside the chain will expand when heated and contract when cooled, so there will be some (small) pressure difference. I wonder if it would be better to boil the chain in water before sticking it in the grease bath, as the resultant pressure change due to condensation of steam on cooling would be closer to 1 atm.
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd usenet.is.worse@plusnet says...
Quoted message said:
Rob Morley said the following on 03/01/2008 14:33:
Quoted message said:
Any air inside the chain will expand when heated and contract when cooled, so there will be some (small) pressure difference. I wonder if it would be better to boil the chain in water before sticking it in the grease bath, as the resultant pressure change due to condensation of steam on cooling would be closer to 1 atm.
I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
What the factory uses is hot grease under pressure. You may achieve the hot grease, but you won't achieve the pressure.
I don't know, there's a pressure cooker in the kitchen cupboard we never use for anything else. Stick a wodge of grease in, put the chain in, apply heat. I mean, what could possibly go wrong......
You might think the worse thing that can happen is the whole things goes up, but that's before the wife finds out...
Martin Dann said the following on 03/01/2008 00:28:
Quoted message said:
I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised that it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove the chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the chain, wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of some chains.
Meths? You mean white spirit, surely?
Definately White spirit.
With the SRAM quick release
Quoted message said:
link, it takes about 10 seconds to remove the chain, if that, and not much longer to refit it! Pop it in the bottle, do the shake'n'vac then hang up to dry. I relube it generously when dry, then wipe off any excess and refit.
White spirit is an excellent degreaser, so you need to make sure you remove all the white spirit before applying oil, otherwise it will just destroy the oil you put on.
Another method would be to completely disassemble the chain and grease the 570 parts individually. Well, it's one way to spend the Christmas holidays - or perhaps an entire year.
Another method would be to completely disassemble the chain and grease the 570 parts individually. Well, it's one way to spend the Christmas holidays - or perhaps an entire year.
One of Sheldons best, along with the Citroen Monospoke. Oh, and the POWerwheels...
"On a 36 spoke wheel, laced the old-fashioned way, 18 spokes do all the work, while the other 18 not only do nothing to help your bike go forward, they are actually pulling you backwards!!!!".
Another method would be to completely disassemble the chain and grease the 570 parts individually. Well, it's one way to spend the Christmas holidays - or perhaps an entire year.
White spirit is an excellent degreaser, so you need to make sure you remove all the white spirit before applying oil, otherwise it will just destroy the oil you put on.
Hang up the chain for a few minutes then most of the WS will have evaporated before you apply the oil. What little remains doesn't destroy it.
> Yebut you might as well have some pure use of the original lube > before the first re-lube is needed. That can be a long time if you > don't ride very much in the wet.
All-weather commuting and mud-bespattered mountain-biking :-)
> The alternative is simply adding oil when needed.
I tend to do that on my commuting bike, with a suitable wipe over. The MTB does get the Sheldon Shake a bit more regularly,
I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised that it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove the chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the chain, wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of some chains.
Now I just oil the chain whilst it is still on the bike (not often enough), and replace it when it starts to wear according to the gauge. I don't think that the chains wear out that much quicker, but it saves all the hassle.
For the cheaper end chains[1] I know people that simply replace them annually. I clean mine, but the annual replacement does seem a reasonable plan.
[1] But not necessarily cheapest.
Annually? How d'you make em last that long? I'm a tourist, so I don't do that much off-road, but I probly get through 3 chains a year. (ok, I don't clean them as often as I should) --
"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Simon Brooke said:
Rob Morley said:
In article <[email hidden]>, Simon Brooke [email hidden] says... > Martin Bulmer wrote: > >> Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with >> the thin grease it arrived in? > > The grease it comes in is penetrated into the bearings far more > thoroughly than you will ever achieve again (and is also stickier, > and thus will stay in longer, than anything you can get in there).
I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
What the factory uses is hot grease under pressure. You may achieve the hot grease, but you won't achieve the pressure.
Maybe the factory just uses pressure to speed up the process? Perhaps the grease, if thin enough when hot, and given enough time, would eventually work its way in through capillary action? Not that I fancy trying it in my kitchen.
Another method would be to completely disassemble the chain and grease the 570 parts individually. Well, it's one way to spend the Christmas holidays - or perhaps an entire year.
I have wondered if it would be theoretically possible to make a chain completely out of powerlinks and ride with it. Then you could simply disassemble, clean and reassemble. Admittedly it would be a time consuming process.
Paul Boyd wrote: > On 01/01/2008 23:24, Pete Biggs said, > >> Yebut you might as well have some pure use of the original lube >> before the first re-lube is needed. That can be a long time if you >> don't ride very much in the wet. > All-weather commuting and mud-bespattered mountain-biking :-) > >> The alternative is simply adding oil when needed. > I tend to do that on my commuting bike, with a suitable wipe over. > The MTB does get the Sheldon Shake a bit more regularly, I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised that it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove the chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the chain, wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of some chains.
Now I just oil the chain whilst it is still on the bike (not often enough), and replace it when it starts to wear according to the gauge. I don't think that the chains wear out that much quicker, but it saves all the hassle.
For the cheaper end chains[1] I know people that simply replace them annually. I clean mine, but the annual replacement does seem a reasonable plan.
[1] But not necessarily cheapest.
Annually? How d'you make em last that long? I'm a tourist, so I don't do that much off-road, but I probly get through 3 chains a year. (ok, I don't clean them as often as I should)
Commute about 1500-2000 miles a year. If you get 3:1 against me you must be 4,500-6000 a year. I think something is wrong hear, or Shimano make better chains than I thought.
White spirit is an excellent degreaser, so you need to make sure you remove all the white spirit before applying oil, otherwise it will just destroy the oil you put on.
Hang up the chain for a few minutes then most of the WS will have evaporated
Overnight is better - and if you clean in the evening, lube in the morning, takes no more actual time. You still need to leave about half an hour between oiling and wiping off, to allow for capillary action to draw the lube into the chain.
-- [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ ;; Generally Not Used ;; Except by Middle Aged Computer Scientists
Simon Brooke said the following on 04/01/2008 08:09:
Quoted message said:
Overnight is better - and if you clean in the evening, lube in the morning, takes no more actual time. You still need to leave about half an hour between oiling and wiping off, to allow for capillary action to draw the lube into the chain.
Yes - that's the way to do it, unless you can leave it hanging in the sun for a few hours.
