Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here?
yes, don't use teflon coated cable! also, be sure you have the pressure block on the correct way around.
Quoted message said:
I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Thanks, Colin
Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Thanks, Colin
Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. It has no use there.
Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Thanks, Colin
Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. It has no use there.
Lou
hard to do without risking cable softening [and the health risks of toxic vapor ingestion] - caught between a rock & a hard place. best to not use teflon cable at all.
> Hey folks; > > Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road > bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake > anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor > pressure. > I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a > single pull > of the brakes. > > The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are > teflon-coated > Nervz. > > Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the > anchor > surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not. > > Thanks, > Colin
Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. It has no use there.
Lou
hard to do without risking cable softening [and the health risks of toxic vapor ingestion] - caught between a rock & a hard place.
It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. Just used a cigarette lighter and hold my breath for a couple of seconds.
> On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 20:42:53 GMT, "Colin B." > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > >> Hey folks; >> >> Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient >> road >> bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back >> brake >> anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor >> pressure. >> I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a >> single pull >> of the brakes. >> >> The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are >> teflon-coated >> Nervz. >> >> Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the >> anchor >> surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not. >> >> Thanks, >> Colin > > > > > > Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or > roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the > mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. It has no use there.
Lou
hard to do without risking cable softening [and the health risks of toxic vapor ingestion] - caught between a rock & a hard place.
It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. Just used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to burn off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but here, the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
> Jeff Starr wrote: > >> On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 20:42:53 GMT, "Colin B." >> <[email hidden]> wrote: >> >> >>> Hey folks; >>> >>> Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient >>> road >>> bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back >>> brake >>> anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor >>> pressure. >>> I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a >>> single pull >>> of the brakes. >>> >>> The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are >>> teflon-coated >>> Nervz. >>> >>> Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on >>> the anchor >>> surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Colin >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or >> roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the >> mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased. > > > > > > Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. > It has no use there. > > Lou
hard to do without risking cable softening [and the health risks of toxic vapor ingestion] - caught between a rock & a hard place.
It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. Just used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to burn off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but here, the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
To be honest I didn't test it. As I said it was a derailleur cable and the pulling forces aren't that high. Maybe it isn't a good idea for a brake cable. Good point. So the OP better remove the teflon coating with a hobby knife.
> Lou Holtman wrote: > >> Jeff Starr wrote: >> >>> On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 20:42:53 GMT, "Colin B." >>> <[email hidden]> wrote: >>> >>> >>>> Hey folks; >>>> >>>> Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my >>>> ancient road >>>> bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back >>>> brake >>>> anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor >>>> pressure. >>>> I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a >>>> single pull >>>> of the brakes. >>>> >>>> The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are >>>> teflon-coated >>>> Nervz. >>>> >>>> Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on >>>> the anchor >>>> surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not. >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> Colin >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or >>> roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the >>> mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. >> It has no use there. >> >> Lou > > > > > > hard to do without risking cable softening [and the health risks of > toxic vapor ingestion] - caught between a rock & a hard place.
It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. Just used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to burn off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but here, the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
To be honest I didn't test it. As I said it was a derailleur cable and the pulling forces aren't that high. Maybe it isn't a good idea for a brake cable. Good point. So the OP better remove the teflon coating with a hobby knife.
Lou
yes, derailleur is much less of a problem.
believe it or not though, the knife thing is not a great idea! it'll end up scratching the strand surfaces which can initiate fatigue. if i were the o.p., i'd look for some clamping assembly problem. i've used teflon coated cable in the past and experienced no slippage issues, so while i don't think it's great idea, i do know that it works. if teflon is to be the magic bullet, it needs to be in the liner, not coating the cable.
Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Thanks, Colin
Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. It has no use there.
I don't get it. I know I have a bad tendency to over-tighten things, but the brake cable clamps I can remember physically deform the cable, so that it is mechanically restrained from slipping. Maybe I'm just remembering the old center-pull and canti cable clamps.
I suspect a washer or some such has been mislaid, which would provide the "pinch" I mention above. Certainly worth checking into.
> Hey folks; > > Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient > road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the > back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under > very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and > the cable slips on a single pull > of the brakes. > > The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are > teflon-coated > Nervz. > > Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the > anchor > surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not. > > Thanks, > Colin
Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased.
Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. It has no use there.
I don't get it. I know I have a bad tendency to over-tighten things, but the brake cable clamps I can remember physically deform the cable, so that it is mechanically restrained from slipping. Maybe I'm just remembering the old center-pull and canti cable clamps.
I suspect a washer or some such has been mislaid, which would provide the "pinch" I mention above. Certainly worth checking into.
Yes, this is the exact problem I had with my old SLRs and one of the primary reasons that I dispensed with single-pivot brakes. The cable must be pinched between two *steel* surfaces. If you have a missing washer, it's easy to get the cable pinched between steel and aluminum or aluminum/aluminum. This would most definitely cause slippage.
It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. Just used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to burn off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but here, the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
No.
Typical teflon melting points are in the neighbourhood of 300 degrees Celcius. It is unlikely that typical steels wil "soften" at such low temperatures (4130 for example needs something over 800 degrees Celcius, and that usually for an extended period of time).
> jim beam wrote: > >> Lou Holtman wrote: >> >>> Jeff Starr wrote: >>> >>>> On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 20:42:53 GMT, "Colin B." >>>> <[email hidden]> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>> Hey folks; >>>>> >>>>> Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my >>>>> ancient road >>>>> bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back >>>>> brake >>>>> anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor >>>>> pressure. >>>>> I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a >>>>> single pull >>>>> of the brakes. >>>>> >>>>> The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are >>>>> teflon-coated >>>>> Nervz. >>>>> >>>>> Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on >>>>> the anchor >>>>> surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not. >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>>> Colin >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi, without damaging the actual cable, you might try removing, or >>>> roughing up the teflon surface. Try some steel wool. Also, not the >>>> mating surfaces, but the bolt itself should be greased. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Burn of the teflon on the part of the cable that is under the bolt. >>> It has no use there. >>> >>> Lou >> >> >> >> >> >> hard to do without risking cable softening [and the health risks of >> toxic vapor ingestion] - caught between a rock & a hard place. > > > > > It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. > Just used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to burn off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but here, the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
To be honest I didn't test it. As I said it was a derailleur cable and the pulling forces aren't that high. Maybe it isn't a good idea for a brake cable. Good point. So the OP better remove the teflon coating with a hobby knife.
Lou
yes, derailleur is much less of a problem.
believe it or not though, the knife thing is not a great idea! it'll end up scratching the strand surfaces which can initiate fatigue. if i were the o.p., i'd look for some clamping assembly problem. i've used teflon coated cable in the past and experienced no slippage issues, so while i don't think it's great idea, i do know that it works. if teflon is to be the magic bullet, it needs to be in the liner, not coating the cable.
Thanks to all. I scraped the teflon off, and then roughed up the surface of the cable. It's true that this can weaken the cable, but if that's the only way I can get it to clamp properly, then so be it.
As an aside, I took a good look at the pinch-clamp washer. It has a groove for the cable to sit into, and in that groove are two pins which are presumably there to hold the cable tight. Those pins are worn down to about nothing, so the cable is free to ride in the groove. Looks like I need to get some more new bits now.
It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB. Just used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to burn off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but here, the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
No.
Typical teflon melting points are in the neighbourhood of 300 degrees Celcius. It is unlikely that typical steels wil "soften" at such low temperatures (4130 for example needs something over 800 degrees Celcius, and that usually for an extended period of time).
That's "Celsius". My God, the disinformation here is astounding.
(Just a little joke, no need for firing off an angry reply.) I think Jim meant that much lower temperatures than the "softening" temperature will alter the structure of the steel for the worse.
"Ted Bennett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
jtaylor said:
"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
Quoted message said:
> It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB.
Just
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> used a cigarette lighter
so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to
burn
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but
here,
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it.
No.
Typical teflon melting points are in the neighbourhood of 300 degrees Celcius. It is unlikely that typical steels wil "soften" at such low temperatures (4130 for example needs something over 800 degrees Celcius,
and
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
that usually for an extended period of time).
That's "Celsius". My God, the disinformation here is astounding.
(Just a little joke, no need for firing off an angry reply.) I think Jim meant that much lower temperatures than the "softening" temperature will alter the structure of the steel for the worse.
By "softening" I did assume that jim "I used to be a metalurgist, but now I'm an anonymous jerk on the net" beam DID mean annealing; which DOES require the 800 degrees indicated above.
Just put new brake cables, levers, and cable housing on my ancient road bike. Everything went fine, except that I cannot tighten the back brake anchor enough to keep the cable from slipping under very minor pressure. I mean, I've tightened that bolt HARD, and the cable slips on a single pull of the brakes.
The brakes themselves are old Shimano SLRs, and the cables are teflon-coated Nervz.
Any suggestions here? I'm thinking of putting contact cement on the anchor surface and the cable, but I don't know if that'll help or not.
Does the bolt have a square shoulder on it? If so, I suspect that it's rotated a little off from the correct alignment, and become jammed in the hole. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
"Ted Bennett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
jtaylor said:
"jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
>>It was quit easy with my teflon coated derailleur cables on my ATB.
Just
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
>>used a cigarette lighter > >so did the steel soften? or did you not test? the temperature to
burn
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
>off teflon is high enough for this to be a factor. it's fine if it's >beyond the anchor point like the soldered end debate earlier, but
here,
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
>the affected area is load bearing. i definitely wouldn't do it. >
No.
Typical teflon melting points are in the neighbourhood of 300 degrees Celcius. It is unlikely that typical steels wil "soften" at such low temperatures (4130 for example needs something over 800 degrees Celcius,
and
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
that usually for an extended period of time).
That's "Celsius". My God, the disinformation here is astounding.
(Just a little joke, no need for firing off an angry reply.) I think Jim meant that much lower temperatures than the "softening" temperature will alter the structure of the steel for the worse.
By "softening" I did assume that jim "I used to be a metalurgist, but now I'm an anonymous jerk on the net" beam DID mean annealing; which DOES require the 800 degrees indicated above.
