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New Bikkel Bike - Teething Problems

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Road Cycling
Published
25 November 2003
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6 December 2003
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Elisa Francesca
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  1. Well, I finally went ahead and bought the Bikkel Neerhem 7 Dutch city bike (www.bikkelbikes.com)
    that I enquired about in this forum a fortnight ago. I spent so long obsessing over the choice that
    finally I had to settle the matter. As Borges writes, "Anything at all, a map of Hungary, can drive
    you mad, if you can think of nothing else".

    I'm still not sure I did the right thing. The new bike is actually much _less_ comfortable than
    my old supermarket model. I'm hoping this is a matter of adjustment that will sort itself out in
    time. Since most things can be tweaked and shifted on the Bikkel, it may take a while to get all
    the proportions down to the millimeter. For the moment, I'm back to the wrist and tooshie
    agonies of yore.

    On the plus side, the Nexus shifting system is a dream and lives up to expectations. I no longer
    have to memorize elaborate shifting scripts to feel confident of taking off after a traffic halt.
    The roller brakes are also strong, supple and rainproof. They don't do werewolf howls like my old
    brakes. The bike feels much slower than my old one at the same speed because the stopping distances
    are so much shorter, and thus allows me to try higher speeds. And the covered chain, skirt guards
    and mud guards all make it possible to wear any of my skirts without hem rips and [censored] marks.

    On the downside, this creature is heavier than I ever imagined. When I initially tried to lift it in
    the shop it didn't seem so bad, but after the various extras were added - hub dynamo, front basket,
    a second anti-theft - it turned into a behemoth. I should have listened to myself after my Cambridge
    experience taught me to mistrust dynamos. I thought it was just a question of quality. In fact,
    whatever the quality, I'm now sure dynamo lighting is an absurdity - it blacks out on you at
    precisely the moments of starting or braking or walking when you need it most, and you can't use
    it.to see around your parking stall.in the garage.

    A more pressing problem is that I find this bike extremely hard to steer. She squirrels all over the
    place. It's as though the slightest bump in the road will send her carreening into the next lane.
    I'm finding traffic intersections scarier than ever, since I cannot manage the turns and the cars
    around me have trouble figuring out which way I'm trying to go. Moreover, I am farther than ever
    from being able to remove my hand from the bars long enough to signal.

    What could be causing that? Forrester in EFFECTIVE CYCLING goes on about fork rake and head angle,
    but he's so arrogant and incomprehensible I feel like giving up. The bike has an adjustable head
    angle,and I do find that the farther forward I set this, the stabler the bike feels. On the other
    hand, setting it forward increases the distance between the bars and the seat and I find myself
    falling, once again, into the abyss. I also surmise that after their long residence in the shop the
    wheels may need pumping, but unfortunately the valves are different from those of my old bike and my
    pump won't work on them until I can get a new valve on it. A collegue has suggested that the wheels
    may not be true. The vendor did add the hub dynamo to the front wheel and perhaps did not take time
    to true it afterwards. I'm only alarmed at the possibility that the bike is meant to be that way and
    will stay that way - my balance problems may not be able to keep up with it.

    I cast the Bikkel's natal horoscope for the date-time stamp on my payment slip. To my utter
    horror, she is the astrological twin of Harry Potter's Professor Snape, Scorpio with Capricorn
    rising! Even if I find

    would have associated with a bicycle. Perhaps I must name her Severine.

    Heyho.

    Elisa Francesca Roselli Ile de France

  2. First off--- Relax!!!! It's going to be OK. It's a sweet bike and you will get plenty of use out of it over time. Any time you plunk down a big sum of money for anything, (but bikes most of all) buyers remorse is bound to set in.

    Just ride and be happy 😉 I'm sure you can adjust the bike and remember that your body will adjust as well. In 500 miles, I'm sure you and your new bike will be best friends.

  3. tacomee said:

    Just ride and be happy 😉 I'm sure you can adjust the bike and remember that your body will adjust
    as well. In 500 miles, I'm sure you and your new bike will be best friends.

    Hope so. I am overly chaste in my cycling experience - I have biblical knowledge of only two cheap
    bikes, and no idea what to expect of bikes in general. Forrester sneers at "wobbly riders" who
    prefer bikes that are, in his own strange jargon, "unstable", insofar as they don't go carreeening
    off to the side every time an eyelash drops off one of your lids. He implies that squirrel bikes
    like my new Bikkel are of a much higher class. My new bike is nearly seven times more costly than my
    previous, and from what I read in this forum the step from supermarket to "real" bike is supposed to
    make a huge difference to one's comfort and road range. Some things are definitely better in the new
    relationship but perhaps I was expecting some sort of instant epiphany that didn't happen.

    EFR

  4. Elisa Francesca Roselli said:

    Well, I finally went ahead and bought the Bikkel Neerhem 7 Dutch city bike (www.bikkelbikes.com)
    that I enquired about in this forum a fortnight ago.

    Congratulations.

    Quoted message said:

    On the downside, this creature is heavier than I ever imagined.

    Well, Holland _is_ a flat country! But it is plain that a very light bike would still be heavy after
    all your necessities were added.

    Quoted message said:

    A more pressing problem is that I find this bike extremely hard to steer. She squirrels all
    over the place. It's as though the slightest bump in the road will send her carreening into the
    next lane.

    That's not a characteristic of the breed.

    First, you should eliminate the simple possibilities. The head bearings may be loose, or more likely
    too tight. Check for looseness by holding the front brake on and gently rocking the bike forward and
    backward. If there is knocking or sloppiness, the headset is loose and should be tightened.

    To check for excessive tightness in the headset, first take off the basket and anything heavy that's
    attached to the front end. Lift up the front end of the bike by the top tube, just behind the
    handlebar stem. The handlebars, fork, and front wheel should swivel freely in their preferred
    direction, without signs of sticking at any orientation. If the headset is tight, have the shop
    adjust it immediately, as it can be damaged by riding it that way.

    Make sure the handlebars point in the same direction as the front wheel, and that the stem is
    tight enough not to slip when the front wheel is held between your knees and the handlebars
    firmly rotated.

    While the basket is off, ride the bike and see if the steering seems normal to you. There could
    be a problem related to adding weight to the front end, though this sort of bike is intended
    for such use.

    Position the bike with the front wheel pointing forward, such that you can sight along between the
    rear wheel and the front. Take note if the wheels do not appear to lie in the same plane, or if they
    seem to lean in different directions.

    If none of these things have betrayed the problem, you will want to adjust your riding position into
    a known acceptable one for a bike of this kind. Adjust the angle of the handlebar stem until it's
    approximately 45degrees from horizontal. Set the handlebars with the grips tilting slightly
    downwards towards the back, but pretty close to level. Check the extension from seat to bars-- put
    your elbow on the tip of the saddle nose and extend your fingers out towards the stem. your
    fingertips should fall roughly on a line in between the handgrips. If they are forwards or very much
    behind the grips, see if there is sufficient adjustment in the saddle rails to slide the seat into
    the range I describe. You may readjust the stem to point more forwards, but do not change it to more
    upright than 45 degrees at this time.

    Make sure the handgrips are noticeably above the level of the seat-- about 50-75mm works well for me
    and is typical of Dutch bikes.

    If your bike can't be put into the configuration I describe, or if this fails to give you handling
    qualities you can live with, it's time to go back to the dealer and have the people there help you.
    That is one of the benefits of buying from a dealer. Have someone test-ride your bike, and see if he
    or she can ride it no-handed.

    If someone at the dealership test-rides your bike and says there is nothing wrong with it, go to
    another bike shop and get a second opinion. If that person looks comfortable and competent while
    riding your bike, and says there is nothing wrong, the problem might be related to something you are
    doing. Make your bike as comfortable as you can, and in time you should accomodate to it.

    If the bike shop people (any of them) can't ride your bike comfortably and competently, then
    there is something wrong with your bike, and the dealer from whom you bought it should
    investigate and address to problem until you are satisfied. It may be as simple a problem as
    having put you on the wrong size frame, or it may be a vexing puzzle. It is the dealer's job to
    solve the problem in any case.

    The difficulties you are having are not likely to result from the wheels being out of true.

    Quoted message said:

    I also surmise that after their long residence in the shop the wheels may need pumping, but
    unfortunately the valves are different from those of my old bike and my pump won't work on them
    until I can get a new valve on it.

    Dutch bikes come with Woods valves on the tubes. These can usually be pumped with the same pump that
    is used on French Presta valves, found on racing and sport bikes. The tubes can be replaced with the
    Schrader valve type, such as is used on motorcycles and cars as well as most utility bikes.

    Good luck,

    Chalo Colina

  5. Tue, 25 Nov 2003 15:17:02 +0100, <[email hidden]>, Elisa Francesca Roselli

    Quoted message said:

    I should have listened to myself after my Cambridge experience taught me to mistrust dynamos. I
    thought it was just a question of quality. In fact, whatever the quality, I'm now sure dynamo
    lighting is an absurdity - it blacks out on you at precisely the moments of starting or braking or
    walking when you need it most, and you can't use it.to see around your parking stall.in the garage.

    It doesn't become gradually dimmer until it blacks out completely as the batteries go dead. You
    can't forget to recharge it in advance of needing it.

    Something like the Planet Bike Beamer or Spot 3 makes a good stand light for when you're stopped or
    as a flashlight for roadside repairs. The dyanamo light is no good for seeing to fix a flat.
    --
    zk

  6. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]

    (Chalo) said:
    Elisa Francesca Roselli said:

    A more pressing problem is that I find this bike extremely hard to steer. She squirrels all
    over the place. It's as though the slightest bump in the road will send her carreening into the
    next lane.

    That's not a characteristic of the breed.

    First, you should eliminate the simple possibilities.

    /snip/ many good hints, suggestions and considerations.

    I probably intuit too much. But this sounds so very much to me like a bent fork. It so much reminds
    me of my own experiences with bent forks.

    My apologies in advance if I'm giving a bum steer. But maybe it's something to investigate, and at
    least get out of the way.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden. I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn
    [point] bc [point] ca

  7. Tom Keats said:

    I probably intuit too much. But this sounds so very much to me like a bent fork. It so much
    reminds me of my own experiences with bent forks.

    How can one tell if a fork is bent?

    EFR

  8. Thank you so much for this wonderfully complete step-by-step diagnosis, which I have printed out and
    will investigate closely over the weekend. For the moment, I am still missing the keys necessary to
    fiddle the seat position and the handlbar height, and Saturday is the soonest I will be able to get
    to a hardware shop.

    My LBS man (not the dealer who sold me this bike) has already moved the seat as far forward as it
    will go; with my elbow on the nose of the seat, my middle fingertip just rests on the top tube, on
    the little rubber stopper that covers the adjustment screw. You say my finger should come "roughly
    on a line in between the handgrips" but I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The handlebars
    curve back a lot (swan style?) and my fingers fall on line about 60mm front of the very ends of
    the grips, more or less at the inner end where the grips fit over the bars. The current height of
    the handgrips is easily about 130mm above the seat, by your recommendation about twice as high as
    they should be, and the angle of the handlbar stem is at 30 degrees according to the little marks
    that have so thoughtfully been inscribed on the rotation axis. However, I found on my previous
    bike that a lower position for handlbars increased my wrist pains and had me riding the whole time
    on my hands. If I lower the stem and at the same time increase its angle it may compromise out
    better, though.

    As for the tire pressure, my old bike does indeed have Schrader type-valves, so the tube end on the
    pump will need modification.

    I will need to fiddle the adjustments as much as I can before returning to the dealer, since that is
    a project that requires a whole day off (16th arrondissement from my house = 1 hour of train + 1
    hour of cycling across Paris, and the train can only be taken within very limited time frames). One
    of the reason for the urgency of this purchase was that I had taken a 2-week holiday to get it
    sorted out and finally bought it on the last Friday. The shop is open on Saturday but I was afraid
    the congestion in the streets for getting it home would be even worse.

    Thanks again,

    EFR

  9. "Elisa Francesca Roselli" wrote ...

    Quoted message said:

    My LBS man (not the dealer who sold me this bike) has already moved the


    seat

    Quoted message said:

    as far forward as it will go; with my elbow on the nose of the seat, my middle fingertip just
    rests on the top tube, on the little rubber stopper that covers the adjustment screw. You say my
    finger should come "roughly


    on

    Quoted message said:

    a line in between the handgrips" but I'm not sure I understand what you


    mean.

    Quoted message said:

    The handlebars curve back a lot (swan style?) and my fingers fall on line about 60mm front of the
    very ends of the grips, more or less at the inner


    end

    Quoted message said:

    where the grips fit over the bars. The current height of the handgrips is easily about 130mm above
    the seat, by your recommendation about twice as


    high

    Quoted message said:

    as they should be, and the angle of the handlbar stem is at 30 degrees according to the little
    marks that have so thoughtfully been inscribed on


    the

    Quoted message said:

    rotation axis. However, I found on my previous bike that a lower position


    for

    Quoted message said:

    handlbars increased my wrist pains and had me riding the whole time on my hands. If I lower the
    stem and at the same time increase its angle it may compromise out better, though.

    Your top tube measurement seems long to me, or perhaps I misunderstood your description. Is it
    possible that the frame is too big? I'd like to hear what others on this NG have to say.

    It might be worth your while to post your questions/comments on rec.bicycles.tech in addition to
    here. There are a number of regulars on that group who have worked in the bicycle industry for
    years, and they might be able to give you some insight. Good Luck,
    --
    mark

  10. Elisa Francesca Roselli <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:

    with my elbow on the nose of the seat, my middle fingertip just rests on the top tube, on the
    little rubber stopper that covers the adjustment screw. You say my finger should come "roughly on
    a line in between the handgrips" but I'm not sure I understand what you mean. The handlebars curve
    back a lot (swan style?) and my fingers fall on line about 60mm front of the very ends of the
    grips, more or less at the inner end where the grips fit over the bars.

    That's OK for troubleshooting purposes. The subtler personal adjustments will come later; for now
    you just need to arrange it in a known normal configuration, and that's what you have.

    Quoted message said:

    The current height of the handgrips is easily about 130mm above the seat, by your recommendation
    about twice as high as they should be,

    That's OK too; it should not cause a problem. Having the bars too low on this kind of bike could
    contribute to the kind of hand discomfort you describe. Yours are not too low. You should be able to
    get a confortable fit with the bars a bit lower than you now have them, after all the little fit
    adjustments are made and you are more accustomed to riding the bike. You will know when this feels
    like a good idea because you will find yourself leaning forward and bending at the elbows to pedal.

    Quoted message said:

    and the angle of the handlbar stem is at 30 degrees according to the little marks that have so
    thoughtfully been inscribed on the rotation axis.

    Is that 30 degrees from horizontal, 30 degrees from vertical, 30 degrees from parallel to the stem
    quill, or 30 degrees from perpendicular to the stem quill?

    Quoted message said:

    However, I found on my previous bike that a lower position for handlbars increased my wrist pains
    and had me riding the whole time on my hands.

    The most important thing to prevent this discomfort is to keep from leaning your torso too far
    forward, which will cause you to carry weight on your hands whether they reach to a high or low
    handlebar. Be aware of the angle of your back while you ride; straight upright is no good, but too
    much tilt forward, too soon, will cause you trouble too. Start about 30 degrees from the vertical,
    and make changes in small increments until you are comfortable.

    Chalo Colina

  11. In article <[email hidden]>, Elisa Francesca Roselli

    Quoted message said:

    How can one tell if a fork is bent?

    Here's what the FAQ has to say about it: draco.acs.uci.edu8e.10.html

    The FAQ's table of contents for numerous other topics can be found at:
    draco.acs.uci.edurbfaq

    It's quite a useful resource.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden. I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn
    [point] bc [point] ca

  12. Closely comparing my old bike with my new one, I have tried to set all the measurements to be as
    equivalent as possible. By this method I persuaded the new bike to be almost as comfortable and
    steerable as the old.

    However, I discover a new point of divergence which is causing some problems. The old bike had 26
    inch wheels, the new, 700mm wheels, which I now realize converts to around 27.5 inches.

    I have the seat set so that I can just about stand on tiptoe on both sides when riding the seat. But
    on this bike, this height is not ideal for pedalling. I noticed that I had trouble finding the
    second pedal and that my leg was not fully extended on the downstroke.

    I have raised the seat as high as I can have it for comfort. My toes can barely touch, and stopping
    and starting is a scary venture because, with the great flop-weight of the bike, I am not sure of
    being able to remain on my feet when it crashes sideways at a halt. But even so, my legs are still
    rather bent while pedalling, and the handlebars, which I had lowered greatly to increase stability,
    are now too low again.

    What is it with this wheel size? At a long-legged 5 foot 8 (1.72 m) I am not exactly a midget, yet
    this woman's bike seems to be too tall for me. Nor have I seen, in any of my extensive Web searches,
    a Dutch style woman's bike with 26" wheels. Are Dutch women all 6 feet tall, or just not bothered
    about making contact with the ground?

    EFR

  13. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Closely comparing my old bike with my new one, I have tried to set all the measurements to be as
    equivalent as possible. By this method I persuaded the new bike to be almost as comfortable and
    steerable as the old.

    However, I discover a new point of divergence which is causing some problems. The old bike had 26
    inch wheels, the new, 700mm wheels, which I now realize converts to around 27.5 inches.

    I have the seat set so that I can just about stand on tiptoe on both sides when riding the seat.
    But on this bike, this height is not ideal for pedalling. I noticed that I had trouble finding the
    second pedal and that my leg was not fully extended on the downstroke.

    I have raised the seat as high as I can have it for comfort. My toes can barely touch, and
    stopping and starting is a scary venture because, with the great flop-weight of the bike, I am not
    sure of being able to remain on my feet when it crashes sideways at a halt. But even so, my legs
    are still rather bent while pedalling, and the handlebars, which I had lowered greatly to increase
    stability, are now too low again.

    What is it with this wheel size? At a long-legged 5 foot 8 (1.72 m) I am not exactly a midget, yet
    this woman's bike seems to be too tall for me. Nor have I seen, in any of my extensive Web
    searches, a Dutch style woman's bike with 26" wheels. Are Dutch women all 6 feet tall, or just not
    bothered about making contact with the ground?

    Experienced riders don't normally put their feet on the ground while on the seat; they lift out of
    the seat and stand on the ground straddling the bike until ready to ride again, then lift themselves
    back into the seat once they are moving. Are your knees bent while pedaling on the older 26" bike? I
    find it difficult to believe that you could straighten your legs while pedaling and still put them
    on the ground unless the bike had a very unusual geometry.

    --
    Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

    REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

  14. Elisa Francesca Roselli said:

    Closely comparing my old bike with my new one, I have tried to set all the measurements to be as
    equivalent as possible. By this method I persuaded the new bike to be almost as comfortable and
    steerable as the old.

    However, I discover a new point of divergence which is causing some problems. The old bike had 26
    inch wheels, the new, 700mm wheels, which I now realize converts to around 27.5 inches.

    Well, it might if 700c wheels measured 700mm in any dimension, which they do not. 700c wheels are
    smaller than the old 27" wheels that used to be common in the US.

    Quoted message said:


    I have the seat set so that I can just about stand on tiptoe on both sides when riding the seat.
    But on this bike, this height is not ideal for pedalling. I noticed that I had trouble finding the
    second pedal and that my leg was not fully extended on the downstroke.

    Your seat is probably too low. I can't stand on tiptoe on both sides with my butt on the seat. Slide
    forward when you stop, and you can easily stradle the bike. That is actually much safer, and more
    stable, than trying to stand over the saddle. It is also easy to get used to. That saddle should be
    used while moving, only.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | the people can always be brought to the bidding of the leaders. _`\(,_ | That is easy. All
    you have to do is tell them they are being (_)/ (_) | attacked, and denounce the peacemakers for
    lack of patriotism and exposing the country to danger. It works the same in any <country. --
    Hermann Goering

  15. David Kerber said:

    Experienced riders don't normally put their feet on the ground while on the seat; they lift out of
    the seat and stand on the ground straddling the bike until ready to ride again, then lift
    themselves back into the seat once they are moving. Are your knees bent while pedaling on the
    older 26" bike? I find it difficult to believe that you could straighten your legs while pedaling
    and still put them on the ground unless the bike had a very unusual geometry.

    I don't think my knees were bent on the old bike, at any rate, they were much _less_ bent, and it
    was possible to stand tip-toe to mount the bike. The whole setup was an inch and a half closer to
    the ground. My balance isn't up to standing on pedals or standing while moving. My method for
    mounting is to tip the bike way over so that the seat is low enough to sit on, straighten to tip-toe
    and take off from there. If I had to get clear off the bike at every traffic light I don't think I'd
    have much luck getting on it again.

    EFR

  16. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:
    David Kerber said:

    Experienced riders don't normally put their feet on the ground while on the seat; they lift out
    of the seat and stand on the ground straddling the bike until ready to ride again, then lift
    themselves back into the seat once they are moving. Are your knees bent while pedaling on the
    older 26" bike? I find it difficult to believe that you could straighten your legs while
    pedaling and still put them on the ground unless the bike had a very unusual geometry.

    I don't think my knees were bent on the old bike, at any rate, they were much _less_ bent, and it
    was possible to stand tip-toe to mount the bike. The whole setup was an inch and a half closer to
    the ground. My balance isn't up to standing on pedals or standing while moving. My method for
    mounting is to tip the bike way over so that the seat is low enough to sit on, straighten to
    tip-toe and take off from there. If I had to get clear off the bike at every traffic light I don't
    think I'd have much luck getting on it again.

    Your old bike must have had a much more laid-back seat post angle, putting your pedals more in front
    of you rather than under you as the new one is. That is going to be a difficult situation to fix if
    you are completely unable to stand on the pedals for even a second or two as you come into a stop,
    which is what most riders do. However, it will be easier to stand up on the new bike with the pedals
    more directly under your saddle than the old one was.

    I would recommend keeping your seat low enough that you can feel safe; it will probably be hard on
    your knees, but IMO that's better than falling off the bike. Then as you ride, try to learn to
    stand on the pedals and lift yourself off the seat as you approach a stop. Most people have a
    favored foot which is stopped at the bottom of its stroke, and then they stand on that pedal while
    they put the other foot on the ground. Once you are comfortable doing that (and the reverse to get
    started again), you can put the seat back up where it should be for efficient pedaling and saving
    your knees.

    --
    Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

    REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

  17. "Elisa Francesca Roselli" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    I don't think my knees were bent on the old bike, at any rate, they were


    much _less_

    Quoted message said:

    bent, and it was possible to stand tip-toe to mount the bike. The whole


    setup was an inch

    Quoted message said:

    and a half closer to the ground. My balance isn't up to standing on pedals


    or standing

    Quoted message said:

    while moving. My method for mounting is to tip the bike way over so that


    the seat is low

    Quoted message said:

    enough to sit on, straighten to tip-toe and take off from there. If I had


    to get clear

    Quoted message said:

    off the bike at every traffic light I don't think I'd have much luck


    getting on it again.

    You shouldn't have to tip over the bike or get clear of it at every intersection. You might try this
    technique for starting: straddle the bike with the right pedal in the 2:00 position (two caveats
    here - I say right pedal because most people are right-leg dominant; the 2:00 position as determined
    from looking at the bike from the right side and placing the right pedal just above horizontal
    pointing forward). Place your right foot on the pedal. In one smooth motion, press down on the right
    pedal and lift yourself onto the saddle. This will get the bike rolling forward and put you in the
    right position to slide onto the saddle. The lift your left foot up to the left pedal and start
    pedalling away!

    With some practice, it will become second nature.

    As has been said before, your knees shouldn't be bent when the pedals reach their lowest position.
    This keeps you from generating the maximum power and can lead to burning and cramping in your
    thighs. If you can't generate adequate power (because your knees are bent), then you can't get the
    bike rolling forward efficiently from a stop and you won't be comfortable riding the bike at speed,
    which also makes you wobbly.

    Raise the saddle to the appropriate height and raise the handlebars as well. Get the relationship
    between the bars and saddle as close as possible to your old bike while ignoring the distance from
    the ground. Once the pedal-saddle-handlebar relationship is set right, then you will be more
    comfortable on the bike and you can work on your starting/stopping problem.

    Good luck! -Buck

  18. David Kerber said:

    Your old bike must have had a much more laid-back seat post angle, putting your pedals more in
    front of you rather than under you as the new one is.

    Thanks for that! Because I wanted to shorten the distance between the seat and the handlebars, I
    kept trying to put the seat farther forward. Yesterday as I was trying this, the seatpost screw was
    still loose and, to my surprise, the seat adjusted itself by sliding all the way _back_, the
    opposite of what I was trying to do. Instantly, the distance to the pedal axel was lengthened.
    Moreover, it is now much easier to transfer weight to the pedals, as for coasting. Previously, I
    could not do that on this bike, and coasting was an agony of having all my weight on my wrists and
    softest parts. To my surprise, this backward shift also seems easier on my hands, although I did
    have to raise the handle a bit.

    Quoted message said:

    I would recommend keeping your seat low enough that you can feel safe; it will probably be hard on
    your knees, but IMO that's better than falling off the bike.

    Uhm yes, I agree.

    Quoted message said:

    Then as you ride, try to learn to stand on the pedals and lift yourself off the seat as you
    approach a stop.

    That should be a little easier now that I can at least unweight the seat somewhat.

  19. Elisa Francesca Roselli said:
    David Kerber said:

    Your old bike must have had a much more laid-back seat post angle, putting your pedals more in
    front of you rather than under you as the new one is.

    Thanks for that! Because I wanted to shorten the distance between the seat and the handlebars, I
    kept trying to put the seat farther forward. Yesterday as I was trying this, the seatpost screw
    was still loose and, to my surprise, the seat adjusted itself by sliding all the way _back_, the
    opposite of what I was trying to do. Instantly, the distance to the pedal axel was lengthened.
    Moreover, it is now much easier to transfer weight to the pedals, as for coasting. Previously, I
    could not do that on this bike, and coasting was an agony of having all my weight on my wrists and
    softest parts. To my surprise, this backward shift also seems easier on my hands, although I did
    have to raise the handle a bit.

    Very good. I was actually on the verge of suggesting you to move your seat back. I just decided to
    read through the other posts so as not to suggest something already suggested. The resason of course
    is that I've just gone through the same procedure myself. I moved my saddle back 16 mm with a
    setback seatpost and shortened my stem 15 mm. This was what I needed to not topple forward and feel
    balanced. The reason for this is actually quite simple. If you imagine yourself and the three pieces
    of contact with the bike. Rump, hands and feet. Now what will happen if you slide your butt and
    hands extremely far forward? You will topple forward. If you slide them extremely far backwards you
    will eventually topple backwards. So the trick is to find the right spot where you will be balanced
    and not put an excessive weight on your hands or your butt for that matter.

    --
    Perre

    You have to be smarter than a robot to reply.

  20. David L. Johnson said:

    ... Well, it might if 700c wheels measured 700mm in any dimension, which they do not. 700c wheels
    are smaller than the old 27" wheels that used to be common in the US.

    The URL I have posted on Usenet more than any other, I believe.
    <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire_sizing.html>

    Tom Sherman - Planet Earth

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