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New bike advice

Started by Phenian · · Last activity · 11 posts · 704 views

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UK and Europe
Published
27 August 2003
Last activity
30 August 2003
Original author
Phenian
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11
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  1. I am loooking to buy a bike to ride fairly seriously but don't have serious money to spend. Can
    anyone offer any advice on the key components, especially identifying where the real value comes in
    (or point me in the direction of a decent website, book, magazine...). I am quite happy to buy
    second-hand and am not bothered about this year's model etc but would like something that is going
    to be reasonably fast.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. phenian said:

    I am loooking to buy a bike to ride fairly seriously but don't have serious money to spend. Can
    anyone offer any advice on the key components, especially identifying where the real value comes
    in (or point me in the direction of a decent website, book, magazine...). I am quite happy to buy
    second-hand and am not bothered about this year's model etc but would like something that is going
    to be reasonably fast.

    What sort of riding do you have in mind? Off road, on, with luggage or not, just for recreation or a
    practical bike too?

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden]
    dundee.ac.uk~pjclinch

  3. phenian <[email hidden]> wrote:
    : I am quite happy to buy second-hand and am not bothered about this year's model etc but would like
    : something that is going to be reasonably fast.

    More info needed. On road or off? Racing or not? Do you want to carry luggage?

  4. I have a reasonable MTB but am doing more on road cycling and finding it a struggle so want
    something for road use, possibly something I could race with once I have built up some raod
    experience. I don't intend to tour with it but occassionally will want to take some luggage.

    "Arthur Clune" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    phenian <[email hidden]> wrote:
    : I am quite happy to buy second-hand and am not bothered about this


    year's

    Quoted message said:

    : model etc but would like something that is going to be reasonably fast.

    More info needed. On road or off? Racing or not? Do you want to carry luggage?

  5. Quoted message said:

    I have a reasonable MTB but am doing more on road cycling and finding it a struggle

    Did you try slicker tyres and higher pressure? Knobbly tyres and low pressure are the main reasons
    why MTBs feel sluggish on the road.

    Andy

  6. "Andy Koppe" <a n d y @ d c s . e d . a c . u k> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I have a reasonable MTB but am doing more on road cycling and finding it


    a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    struggle

    Did you try slicker tyres and higher pressure? Knobbly tyres and low pressure are the main reasons
    why MTBs feel sluggish on the road.

    Significant reasons, yes -- main reasons, questionable.

    MTB gearing is, typically, significantly lower, tyres significantly wider and the riding position
    significantly more upright -- and less 'efficient' than a road bike.

    T

  7. Tony W said:

    "Andy Koppe" <a n d y @ d c s . e d . a c . u k> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Did you try slicker tyres and higher pressure? Knobbly tyres and low pressure are the main reasons
    why MTBs feel sluggish on the road.

    Quoted message said:

    Significant reasons, yes -- main reasons, questionable.

    MTB gearing is, typically, significantly lower, tyres significantly wider and the riding position
    significantly more upright -- and less 'efficient' than a road bike.

    I'd go with "main": the Brompton runs 100 psi Marathons and despite being sit up and beg so quite
    comedic on the aerodynamic front and gears that are in no way designed for speed (3 speed SRAM hub
    with 18% reduction from Brompton's standard), I can *easily* maintain higher speeds on road than I
    can manage on the MTB with 2.1" knobblies. The MTB gearing does go a lot lower, but on the big ring
    it's still a whole lot harder to spin out than the Brom. The knobblies make it great fun in mud and
    capable over rocks, but really do suck the life out of the thing on the road. The only time I ever
    ride it on the road is getting to some off-road!

    Also the case that one of the easiest ways to change to slicker tyres is get a second set of wheels,
    rather than physically move the tyres over each time. And if you're slotting in a different wheel,
    might as well have some smaller cogs and jumps between them on the road wheel. That will make it
    vastly better on the road, and I'd be surprised if the OP's MTB won't take a rack if he wants to
    move stuff. Damn site cheaper than a new bike too, though it won't do road racing. But there again,
    he can spend the new bike money on a racer if he later decides it's the route for him, rather than
    straight away.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden]
    dundee.ac.uk~pjclinch

  8. I have tried both but the biggest problem with my current bike is the gearing and I don't want to
    mess with it too much as I want to continue taking it off road, just want to do more serious on road
    cycling too.

    "Andy Koppe" <a n d y @ d c s . e d . a c . u k> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I have a reasonable MTB but am doing more on road cycling and finding it


    a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    struggle

    Did you try slicker tyres and higher pressure? Knobbly tyres and low pressure are the main reasons
    why MTBs feel sluggish on the road.

    Andy

  9. phenian said:

    I have tried both but the biggest problem with my current bike is the gearing and I don't want to
    mess with it too much as I want to continue taking it off road, just want to do more serious on
    road cycling too.

    If you want a new bike don't let me stop you, but a second back wheel with higher/closer gearing and
    the same number of stops would be a lot cheaper! You wouldn't get as high as a real road machine as
    your front chainwheels will stay the same, but maybe worth looking into.

    If you have sus forks that don't lock out these will slow you up on the road too, but might be an
    excuse to upgrade them for something that will lock out *and* do the rough stuff better.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email hidden]
    dundee.ac.uk~pjclinch

  10. "Peter Clinch" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    phenian said:

    I have tried both but the biggest problem with my current bike is the gearing and I don't want
    to mess with it too much as I want to continue taking it off road, just want to do more serious
    on road cycling too.

    If you want a new bike don't let me stop you, but a second back wheel with higher/closer gearing
    and the same number of stops would be a lot cheaper! You wouldn't get as high as a real road
    machine as your front chainwheels will stay the same, but maybe worth looking into.

    If you have sus forks that don't lock out these will slow you up on the road too, but might be an
    excuse to upgrade them for something that will lock out *and* do the rough stuff better.

    OK, that said, any recomendations for a hardtail mtb _geometry_ that's going to be more useful on
    road than a "standard" mtb geometry? I was thinking steeper would be better (though I don't know
    why). Any suggestions (steel or titanium)?

    I'm thinking I want to go down the hardtail mtb w/ road wheels+gearing as a commuter, then at the
    weekends just swap over the wheels and go off road. Eventually, when I've rid m'self of the 2st lard
    wrapper around my belly, I might try and make some of the commute off road. It'd be nice if someone
    came up with a way of easily changing forks too, so I could swap between soft & hard noses.

    I already have a full susser but it's a heavy lump and you can't work out of the saddle :-)

    Ngus.

  11. phenian said:

    I am loooking to buy a bike to ride fairly seriously but don't have serious money to spend. Can
    anyone offer any advice on the key components, especially identifying where the real value comes
    in (or point me in the direction of a decent website, book, magazine...). I am quite happy to buy
    second-hand and am not bothered about this year's model etc but would like something that is going
    to be reasonably fast.

    There *appear* to be some real bargains to be had on ebay. But, of course, second hand bike bits may
    well be knackered and you don't really get a chance to inspect before you buy, so it's a bit risky.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) jasmine.org.uk~simon

    ;; ... exposing the violence incoherent in the system...

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