Need Rim Suggestion

Meek One said:

I am looking to put a new rim on my 32h Powertap. I'd like something inexpensive, we'll say no more than $250(carbon) or $100 (alu) that is deep (the closer to 50mm the better). What are are my choices, if any? I wish Velocity made a Deep, Deep V...
Thanks.

Is this for racing or training... or both?

swampy1970 said:

Is this for racing or training... or both?

Do everything rim. I'll take durability over weight if that is what you are asking.

FWIW I am pretty heavy ~207 and dropping (to 185-190ish), but I also tend to be very gentle on my wheels.

DT Swiss R1.2

Meek One said:

Do everything rim. I'll take durability over weight if that is what you are asking.

FWIW I am pretty heavy ~207 and dropping (to 185-190ish), but I also tend to be very gentle on my wheels.

Don't count on the weight dropping - I used to be in the 140s when I last raced and ballooned upto 210. I've been losing weight but it goes back on just as easily as it comes off.... Currently low 180's.

I've found the Velocity Aerohead OC to be pretty much bombproof on the rear - but it's not a 50mm deep V rim. It has taken a few good hits at speed (more than 30mph) - the same kind of hits that rendered the rim on my American Classic CR-420 to the junk pile. I've trashed a couple of Mavic MA40's and Open 4's (now Open Pro?) the same way. Plus they come in a bunch of pimpin' colours... and have a nice machined braking surface.

Weight - around 420grams.

Someday I'll get around to replacing the American Classic 420 on the front with a similar wheel to the Powertap/Aerohead OC that I have on the back...

If you want truely bombproof rims - seek out someone who has a set of Mavic SSC (service des course) Paris Roubaix rims. If you can break these then you're either completely stupid or have a habit of riding into large inanimate objects like houses or brick walls at great speed....

Velocity or Kinlin rims. DT rims work, too.

yes, velocity. deep v for ultimate strength, aerohead oc very good, my choice.

alienator said:

Velocity or Kinlin rims. DT rims work, too.

Meek One said:

I am looking to put a new rim on my 32h Powertap. I'd like something inexpensive, we'll say no more than $250(carbon) or $100 (alu) that is deep (the closer to 50mm the better). What are are my choices, if any? I wish Velocity made a Deep, Deep V...
Thanks.

Velocity Deep V or DT 1.2.

If looking for strength, many of the folks over at another forum's Clydesdale section swear by the Velocity Deep V for building bomb proof wheels.

Meek One said:

I am looking to put a new rim on my 32h Powertap. I'd like something inexpensive, we'll say no more than $250(carbon) or $100 (alu) that is deep (the closer to 50mm the better). What are are my choices, if any? I wish Velocity made a Deep, Deep V...
Thanks.

If you only run with a front brake... or can bolt a disc to your powertap 😄

you could go for one of velocity's new B43s as per the front page of their website.

At 730g though, you might want to consider your comment about weight not being important.

velocitywheels.comdefault.aspOpen ↗

Deep Vs are boat anchors get some Kinlin Xr300s.

Zen Wheels said:

Deep Vs are boat anchors get some Kinlin Xr300s.

Uh-huh.

Oh, wait: I forgot that wheel weight and MOI are soooooooooo important.🙄

Zen Wheels said:

Deep Vs are boat anchors get some Kinlin Xr300s.

455 grams vs 520 grams...65 grams, pretty small anchor.

Peter@vecchios said:

455 grams vs 520 grams...65 grams, pretty small anchor.

according to DT Swiss website RR 1.2 weight is 585 grams

catlike said:

according to DT Swiss website RR 1.2 weight is 585 grams

Uhm, the Velocity Deep V isn't a DT rim. It's made by Velocity.

alienator said:

Uhm, the Velocity Deep V isn't a DT rim. It's made by Velocity.

sorry, somehow i confused deep v with DT1.2.

catlike said:

sorry, somehow i confused deep v with DT1.2.

Lots of posts by you, good questions but remember that the most important thing about wheels is reliability. Aero-ness, weight, spoke count and spoke characteristics, lacing 'style' all mean little to nuthin' in terms of how they effect your riding performance. BUT if the wheel is designed and/or built poorly, and it strands you, that has a huge impact on your ride.

Sit down with a good wheelbuilder and have them design a wheelset specifically to you and your needs, including price.

Peter@vecchios said:

Lots of posts by you, good questions but remember that the most important thing about wheels is reliability. Aero-ness, weight, spoke count and spoke characteristics, lacing 'style' all mean little to nuthin' in terms of how they effect your riding performance. BUT if the wheel is designed and/or built poorly, and it strands you, that has a huge impact on your ride.

Sit down with a good wheelbuilder and have them design a wheelset specifically to you and your needs, including price.

Peter, thanks to you for tirelessly hitting the message of durability/reliability. Saving a few watts @ 30 mph may be significant to an elite TT racer looking for the last few seconds, but for 99% percent, care-free reliability is where it's at.

But there are durable "factory" wheels out there too. EG, my Circuit wheels have gone 22K miles without any need for attention at all. Apparently the twin-threaded spokes and even tension that Velomax/Easton advertised does work. Wouldn't recommend the hubs for anyone dealing with dirty roads or wet weather, as they lack axle seals, but at least the skateboard bearings are cheap and easy to press in and out.

dhk2 said:

Peter, thanks to you for tirelessly hitting the message of durability/reliability. Saving a few watts @ 30 mph may be significant to an elite TT racer looking for the last few seconds, but for 99% percent, care-free reliability is where it's at.

But there are durable "factory" wheels out there too. EG, my Circuit wheels have gone 22K miles without any need for attention at all. Apparently the twin-threaded spokes and even tension that Velomax/Easton advertised does work. Wouldn't recommend the hubs for anyone dealing with dirty roads or wet weather, as they lack axle seals, but at least the skateboard bearings are cheap and easy to press in and out.

A big gripe(among many) about wheelsouttaboxes is poor hubs, small bearings, also unique to that wheel parts. We have a guy that has great luck with some of the Velomax wheels but he weighs 135 pounds and is very easy on stuff. Glad to see Velomax has gone to more common straight pull spokes with a spoke end rather than both ends threaded.

But for the $, a hubset, rim, spokes, build designed for the rider, is hard to beat. Just need a decent wheelbuilder, the hardest thing to find sometimes.

OR buy Gerd Schraner's and Jobst Brandt's books and build your own, how most of us started.

Peter@vecchios said:

A big gripe(among many) about wheelsouttaboxes is poor hubs, small bearings, also unique to that wheel parts. We have a guy that has great luck with some of the Velomax wheels but he weighs 135 pounds and is very easy on stuff. Glad to see Velomax has gone to more common straight pull spokes with a spoke end rather than both ends threaded.

But for the $, a hubset, rim, spokes, build designed for the rider, is hard to beat. Just need a decent wheelbuilder, the hardest thing to find sometimes.

OR buy Gerd Schraner's and Jobst Brandt's books and build your own, how most of us started.

Yes, the R8 skateboard bearings aren't made for radial loads, and the preload isn't adjustable anyway. Years ago, after riding in a heavy rain, I had problems with rusty bearings in front. The factory tech support advised to remove the "dust caps" on the ends of the hubs after riding in rain in order to remove any water which intruded. It's only a 5 minute job, but something easy to forget after coming home from a wet ride.

The Circuit wheels still have the twin-threaded spokes, at least my late-2003 ones do. The company says that the elbow can be cut off standard spokes and threaded by an LBS, but doubt many have that equipment now. I did worry about the need to replace spokes before I ordered the wheels, but my framebuilder said they were very durable wheels that should be trouble-free for a long time, and it appears he was correct. I'm 180-190 lbs and haven't touched the wheels in 21K miles.