UK and Europe · Public discussion

Need longer 28.6 diameter alloy stem

Started by John Latter · · Last activity · 21 posts · 1,559 views

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UK and Europe
Published
14 April 2004
Last activity
21 April 2004
Original author
John Latter
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21
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  1. Hi,

    I've just taken delivery of a new bike & I think the saddle
    stem might not be long enough (gotta adjust front disc
    brakes before I go for a ride) - can anyone recommend where
    I can get a longer 28.6 diameter alloy stem from please?

    Regards,

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  2. John Latter said:

    Hi,

    I've just taken delivery of a new bike & I think the
    saddle stem might not be long enough (gotta adjust front
    disc brakes before I go for a ride) - can anyone
    recommend where I can get a longer 28.6 diameter alloy
    stem from please?

    What length is required (from bottom of post to saddle
    rail)? In-line or layback type?

    Some sites to browse:

    chainreactioncycles.comchainreactioncycles.com

    wiggle.co.ukwiggle.co.uk

    parker-international.co.ukcomponents.htm (if a
    road bike one would do)

    To increase choice, you could also consider a 25.0 post
    with a shim.

    ~PB

  3. In article <[email hidden]>, John Latter

    Quoted message said:

    can anyone recommend where I can get a longer 28.6
    diameter alloy stem from please?

    Longer than ??

    --
    A T (Sandy) Morton on the Bicycle Island In the Global
    Village millport.netmillport.net

  4. John Latter said:

    Hi,

    I've just taken delivery of a new bike & I think the
    saddle stem might not be long enough (gotta adjust front
    disc brakes before I go for a ride) - can anyone
    recommend where I can get a longer 28.6 diameter alloy
    stem from please?

    That would be a seatpost, then. Try www.wiggle.co.uk
    and remember you need the stem inserted (huhuhuhuh, he
    said "inserted"😉 at least an inch below the bottom of
    the top tube.

  5. Quoted message said:

    Longer than ??

    a piece of string.

    /coat

    d.

  6. Zog The Undeniable said:

    That would be a seatpost, then. Try www.wiggle.co.uk and
    remember you need the *stem*

    Oh hell, now I'm at it.

  7. Pete Biggs said:
    John Latter said:

    Hi,

    I've just taken delivery of a new bike & I think the
    saddle stem might not be long enough (gotta adjust front
    disc brakes before I go for a ride) - can anyone
    recommend where I can get a longer 28.6 diameter alloy
    stem from please?

    What length is required (from bottom of post to saddle
    rail)? In-line or layback type?

    Some sites to browse:

    chainreactioncycles.comchainreactioncycles.com

    wiggle.co.ukwiggle.co.uk

    parker-international.co.ukcomponents.htm (if a
    road bike one would do)

    To increase choice, you could also consider a 25.0 post
    with a shim.

    ~PB

    Thankyou Pete - and to the others who replied 🙂

    I'm not very knowledgeable about bikes. The seatpost/stem
    which I have at the moment is only about 10 inches long in
    total (ie the whole thing - inc. the bit which narrows to
    take the saddle 'fixing'😉. It's on the minimum insertion
    mark now but I think I'm gonna need a longer one when I
    eventually adjust it for an optimum setting.

    I intend to do this after I've sorted out the front disc
    brake. No-one's talking to me on another thread where I
    asked for advice on adjusting disc brakes so I would like to
    repeat the request here.

    The bike I have (which arrived this morning) is a Jeep
    Comanche from the Argos catologue. I've never seen a disc
    brake before but when I looked at it (peering down from
    over the top of the handlebars) I could see the left hand
    pad but nothing of the right hand pad so that applying the
    brake looked as if it would catch the housing on the
    righthand side.

    I stuck an allen key behind the spokes to adjust the most
    obvious nut determining how far the rh pad extrudes but it
    came out at an angle so that when I applied the brakes it
    'bent' the disc to the right (only slightly of course) and I
    dunno if this is normal.

    Don't know much at all really, which is why I would
    appreciate any help.

    Regards,

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  8. John Latter said:

    I'm not very knowledgeable about bikes. The seatpost/stem
    which I have at the moment is only about 10 inches long in
    total (ie the whole thing - inc. the bit which narrows to
    take the saddle 'fixing'😉.

    So that's about 250mm......

    Quoted message said:

    It's on the minimum insertion mark now but I think I'm
    gonna need a longer one when I eventually adjust it for an
    optimum setting.

    340 or 350 mm seatposts are common enough. One of those
    should do you.

    Quoted message said:

    I intend to do this after I've sorted out the front disc
    brake. No-one's talking to me on another thread where I
    asked for advice on adjusting disc brakes so I would like
    to repeat the request here.


    /snip

    Quoted message said:

    Don't know much at all really, which is why I would
    appreciate any help.

    Sorry I don't know anything worth knowing about disc brakes.
    Try the rec.bicycles.tech newsgroup (and mountain biking
    ones) if you get no advice here. Give people a bit of a
    chance first, though.

    ~PB

  9. "John Latter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm not very knowledgeable about bikes.

    Which is why you should have asked about 'em here before
    purchase and/or buy from a reputable Local Bike Shop (for
    local people).

    Quoted message said:

    I intend to do this after I've sorted out the front disc
    brake. No-one's talking to me on another thread where I
    asked for advice on adjusting disc brakes so I would like
    to repeat the request here.

    You'd have to be more specific about the make and model of
    brake, I did see your earlier post but can't answer your
    query. Decent disc brakes come with service instructions
    and/or online resources provided by the manufacturer.

    Quoted message said:

    The bike I have (which arrived this morning) is a Jeep
    Comanche from the Argos catologue.

    Which is why things are going wrong for you, had you
    bought from a LBS they should have adjusted the brakes
    before you rode off, these are safety critical (bleedin'
    obvious) components, would you buy a new car and expect to
    have to adjust the brakes, or a new VCR and expect to
    adjust the head? Also a decent LBS would have made sure
    it's the right size so the seat post, stem, whatever
    question wouldn't arise.

    If the brakes don't work send the bloody thing back to
    Argos, it's not fit for the purpose sold for and is in fact
    dangerous. Then when you get your money back seek a little
    more knowledge and a decent shop then buy a bike with only
    front suspension and ordinary rim (Vee or linear pull, same
    thing different terminology) brakes.

    Why? you may ask. Well because good rear suspension is
    expensive so on a £250 bike you'll get something that's
    heavy, perhaps unreliable and definately with poor
    performance, other components will be downgraded to pay for
    the naff rear sus. Mtb disc brakes come into their own when
    the going gets wet and downhills severe. For this purpose
    they need to be ultra reliable and very effective, anything
    less defeats the object. Rim brakes are more than adequate
    for fairer weather use on bridleways, tow-paths and similar
    and good rim brakes will out-perform poor disc brakes and
    prove more reliable, they just might not look so fashionable
    to the uninitiated.

    Sorry to be the one to tell you you are in the altogether
    but someone has to
    :-)
    --
    Regards, Pete

  10. Pete Biggs said:
    John Latter said:

    I'm not very knowledgeable about bikes. The seatpost/stem
    which I have at the moment is only about 10 inches long
    in total (ie the whole thing - inc. the bit which narrows
    to take the saddle 'fixing'😉.

    So that's about 250mm......

    Quoted message said:

    It's on the minimum insertion mark now but I think I'm
    gonna need a longer one when I eventually adjust it for
    an optimum setting.

    340 or 350 mm seatposts are common enough. One of those
    should do you.

    Quoted message said:

    I intend to do this after I've sorted out the front disc
    brake. No-one's talking to me on another thread where I
    asked for advice on adjusting disc brakes so I would like
    to repeat the request here.


    /snip

    Quoted message said:

    Don't know much at all really, which is why I would
    appreciate any help.

    Sorry I don't know anything worth knowing about disc
    brakes. Try the rec.bicycles.tech newsgroup (and mountain
    biking ones) if you get no advice here. Give people a bit
    of a chance first, though.

    ~PB

    Thanks Pete 🙂

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  11. Peter B said:


    "John Latter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm not very knowledgeable about bikes.

    Which is why you should have asked about 'em here before
    purchase and/or buy from a reputable Local Bike Shop (for
    local people).

    Quoted message said:

    I intend to do this after I've sorted out the front disc
    brake. No-one's talking to me on another thread where I
    asked for advice on adjusting disc brakes so I would like
    to repeat the request here.

    You'd have to be more specific about the make and model of
    brake, I did see your earlier post but can't answer your
    query. Decent disc brakes come with service instructions
    and/or online resources provided by the manufacturer.

    Quoted message said:

    The bike I have (which arrived this morning) is a Jeep
    Comanche from the Argos catologue.

    Which is why things are going wrong for you, had you
    bought from a LBS they should have adjusted the brakes
    before you rode off, these are safety critical (bleedin'
    obvious) components, would you buy a new car and expect to
    have to adjust the brakes, or a new VCR and expect to
    adjust the head? Also a decent LBS would have made sure
    it's the right size so the seat post, stem, whatever
    question wouldn't arise.

    If the brakes don't work send the bloody thing back to
    Argos, it's not fit for the purpose sold for and is in fact
    dangerous. Then when you get your money back seek a little
    more knowledge and a decent shop then buy a bike with only
    front suspension and ordinary rim (Vee or linear pull, same
    thing different terminology) brakes.

    Why? you may ask. Well because good rear suspension is
    expensive so on a £250 bike you'll get something that's
    heavy, perhaps unreliable and definately with poor
    performance, other components will be downgraded to pay for
    the naff rear sus. Mtb disc brakes come into their own when
    the going gets wet and downhills severe. For this purpose
    they need to be ultra reliable and very effective, anything
    less defeats the object. Rim brakes are more than adequate
    for fairer weather use on bridleways, tow-paths and similar
    and good rim brakes will out-perform poor disc brakes and
    prove more reliable, they just might not look so
    fashionable to the uninitiated.

    Sorry to be the one to tell you you are in the altogether
    but someone has to
    :-)

    Thanks for the advice and info Pete - Argos have a good
    policy on replacing bikes but they're not very 'good' when
    it comes to problems like this one.

    I feel a bit fed up at the moment - I had bought a Boss
    Reflex from them but had to replace it TWICE cos of bottom
    bracket problems. They gave me a refund and so I got this
    Jeep Comanche.

    The disc brake system is made by Artek and is type
    APSE ADC-4.2

    I went to the Artek site at

    apse.com.twadc3.html

    which is about the ADC-3 and all it says about the ADC-4*
    series is that its coming soon!

    I've done some adjustments and now when I spin the wheel the
    rotor catches slightly with one of the pads every 2 or 3
    revolutions of the wheel - I dunno if it'll bed in or what.

    As I said in my original post, the rotor is bent very
    slightly to the right when applying the brake - do you know
    if this is normal?

    Regards,

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  12. [email hidden] schreef ...

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks for the advice and info Pete - Argos have a good
    policy on replacing bikes but they're not very 'good' when
    it comes to problems like this one.

    I must support others who suggested you should have bought a
    bike at a proper bike shop.

    Quoted message said:

    I feel a bit fed up at the moment - I had bought a Boss
    Reflex from them but had to replace it TWICE cos of bottom
    bracket problems. They gave me a refund and so I got this
    Jeep Comanche.

    The disc brake system is made by Artek and is type
    APSE ADC-4.2

    I went to the Artek site at

    apse.com.twadc3.html

    which is about the ADC-3 and all it says about the ADC-4*
    series is that its coming soon!

    I've done some adjustments and now when I spin the wheel
    the rotor catches slightly with one of the pads every 2
    or 3 revolutions of the wheel - I dunno if it'll bed in
    or what.

    As I said in my original post, the rotor is bent very
    slightly to the right when applying the brake - do you
    know if this is normal?

    Probably, you have a type of disc brake with one fixed brake
    pad (the right one) and one moving one (the left one). When
    you brake, the left pad will push the rotor towards the
    right pad. And disc brakes such as yours do tend to make
    noises, for example when the rotor catches the brake pad.
    It'll bed in somewhat but it's a well-known problem with
    this type of brakes.

    --
    Regards, Marten

  13. Marten Hoffmann said:

    [email hidden] schreef ...

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks for the advice and info Pete - Argos have a good
    policy on replacing bikes but they're not very 'good'
    when it comes to problems like this one.

    I must support others who suggested you should have bought
    a bike at a proper bike shop.

    Quoted message said:

    I feel a bit fed up at the moment - I had bought a Boss
    Reflex from them but had to replace it TWICE cos of
    bottom bracket problems. They gave me a refund and so I
    got this Jeep Comanche.

    The disc brake system is made by Artek and is type APSE
    ADC-4.2

    I went to the Artek site at

    apse.com.twadc3.html

    which is about the ADC-3 and all it says about the ADC-4*
    series is that its coming soon!

    I've done some adjustments and now when I spin the wheel
    the rotor catches slightly with one of the pads every 2
    or 3 revolutions of the wheel - I dunno if it'll bed in
    or what.

    As I said in my original post, the rotor is bent very
    slightly to the right when applying the brake - do you
    know if this is normal?

    Probably, you have a type of disc brake with one fixed
    brake pad (the right one) and one moving one (the left
    one). When you brake, the left pad will push the rotor
    towards the right pad. And disc brakes such as yours do
    tend to make noises, for example when the rotor catches the
    brake pad. It'll bed in somewhat but it's a well-known
    problem with this type of brakes.

    Thankyou Marten - you've given the kind of perspective
    that I needed!

    The system I have does seem to be of the 'one fixed pad/one
    moving' variety. I'm well aware of my ignorance about bikes
    (although I do learn from the info given by more experienced
    people) so if what I'm observing isn't too unusual then
    maybe I'll actually ride the bike today!

    Having said that, a chap called Simon Brooke said the
    following in the "any info on adjusting front disc brakes":

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    [Me:] Also, when I apply the brakes the rotor is bent
    very slightly to the right - do you know if this is
    normal?

    [Simon:] No, very abnormal indeed. But a set of decent
    quality disk brakes costs more than you spent on your whole
    bike, so this probably isn't surprising. I know we keep
    going on about it on this group but ultra-el-cheapo full
    suspension bikes (with or without el cheapo disk brakes)
    are *not* bargains.

    Suspension that's any good is inherently not cheap. Not
    because anyone's gouging anything but because the
    engineering standards required are pretty high, and to get
    adequately damped travel in an assembly that is light
    enough for pushbike use requires either some very fine
    engineering or some moderately exotic materials (or both).
    Disk brake systems are similar.

    If you've only got a couple of hundred pounds to spend on a
    bike look carefully at what's available locally second
    hand, and failing that look at simple bikes with no
    suspension and conventional brakes from reputable people
    like the Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op.

    I can see what he's saying but from what you & another chap
    have said maybe the rotor movement isn't so 'abnormal' -
    anyway I'm going to persevere with this Argos bike for the
    time being.

    One thing is for sure though, the next time I buy a bike
    (or if this one doesn't work out) then it'll be from a
    local shop!

    Thanks again for your help!

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  14. John Latter <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I can see what he's saying but from what you & another
    chap have said maybe the rotor movement isn't so
    'abnormal' - anyway I'm going to persevere with this Argos
    bike for the time being.

    It may be as designed, but if so that sounds like a bloody
    awful design to me. Interestingly Argos' catalogue page at
    makeashorterlink.commakeashorterlink.com

    or (full link)

    et%2FSearch%3FstoreId%3D10001%26catalogId%3D651%26langId%3D-
    1%26go.x%3D4%26go.y%3D11%26searchTerms%3D330%2F3113&langId=-
    1&searchTerms=330%2F3113&referrer=COJUN&AID=5590799&storeId-
    =10001&go.y=11

    shows a bike with disk brakes but the description says
    "Powerful V style alloy linear brake system with alloy
    levers." So you could probably get them to take it back on
    the grounds that it's not as described.

    You might also want to check out the story on front disk
    brakes used with quick release levers by googling in this
    group for the string: disk brake qr , or maybe have a look
    at russ-appeal.org.ukruss-appeal.org.uk
    . At the very least make sure you check regularly that the
    quick release lever is tight and the axle is not moving in
    the dropout.

    Quoted message said:

    One thing is for sure though, the next time I buy a bike
    (or if this one doesn't work out) then it'll be from a
    local shop!

    The LBS is not just a place to buy a bicycle but, at
    its best, a valuable resource of knowledgeable cycling
    enthusiasts who can match you perfectly to the
    equipment you need.

    --
    Dave...

  15. (Dave Kahn) said:

    John Latter <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I can see what he's saying but from what you & another
    chap have said maybe the rotor movement isn't so
    'abnormal' - anyway I'm going to persevere with this
    Argos bike for the time being.

    It may be as designed, but if so that sounds like a bloody
    awful design to me. Interestingly Argos' catalogue page at
    makeashorterlink.commakeashorterlink.com

    or (full link)

    t%2FSearch%3FstoreId%3D10001%26catalogId%3D651%26langId%3D-
    %26go.x%3D4%26go.y%3D11%26searchTerms%3D330%2F3113&langId=-
    1&searchTerms=330%2F3113&referrer=COJUN&AID=5590799&storeI-
    d=10001&go.y=11

    shows a bike with disk brakes but the description says
    "Powerful V style alloy linear brake system with alloy
    levers." So you could probably get them to take it back on
    the grounds that it's not as described.

    You might also want to check out the story on front disk
    brakes used with quick release levers by googling in this
    group for the string: disk brake qr , or maybe have a look
    at russ-appeal.org.ukruss-appeal.org.uk
    . At the very least make sure you check regularly that the
    quick release lever is tight and the axle is not moving
    in the dropout.

    Quoted message said:

    One thing is for sure though, the next time I buy a bike
    (or if this one doesn't work out) then it'll be from a
    local shop!

    The LBS is not just a place to buy a bicycle but, at its
    best, a valuable resource of knowledgeable cycling
    enthusiasts who can match you perfectly to the equipment
    you need.

    Hi Dave,

    Just a quick note cos I'm pushed for time4 - the bike
    doesn't have quick-release on the front wheel despite the
    Argos blurb saying otherwise (one problem I won't have then)
    & it has been the friendliness & knowledge of the Halfords
    staff which I have grown to appreciate.

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  16. "John Latter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Just a quick note cos I'm pushed for time4 - the bike
    doesn't have quick-release on the front wheel despite
    the Argos blurb saying otherwise (one problem I won't
    have then)

    Steady John, don't confuse a front wheel held in with nuts
    with a front wheel that has a through axle like a motorbike.
    At least with a QR you may periodically remove the wheel,
    because you can easily, so in effect may re-tighten it by
    default. With nuts you may fit and forget but if a QR can
    come loose so can nuts, do check them before every ride.
    --
    Regards, Pete

  17. On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 20:39:16 +0100, John Latter <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Just a quick note cos I'm pushed for time4 - the bike
    doesn't have quick-release on the front wheel despite
    the Argos blurb saying otherwise (one problem I won't
    have then)

    So that makes 2 points on which it is not as described. :-(

    Quoted message said:

    & it has been the friendliness & knowledge of the Halfords
    staff which I have grown to appreciate.

    You will also encounter some strong anti-Halfords feeling in
    here. They do sell some poor bikes, but they also sell some
    decent ones and if you are lucky with your branch they have
    some good bike staff too.

    --
    Dave...

    Get a bicycle. You will not regret it. If you live. -
    Mark Twain

  18. On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 20:39:16 +0100, John Latter <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Just a quick note cos I'm pushed for time4 - the bike
    doesn't have quick-release on the front wheel despite
    the Argos blurb saying otherwise (one problem I won't
    have then)

    So that makes 2 points on which it is not as described. :-(

    Quoted message said:

    & it has been the friendliness & knowledge of the Halfords
    staff which I have grown to appreciate.

    You will also encounter some strong anti-Halfords feeling in
    here. They do sell some poor bikes, but they also sell some
    decent ones and if you are lucky with your branch they have
    some good bike staff too.

    --
    Dave...

    Get a bicycle. You will not regret it. If you live. -
    Mark Twain

  19. Peter B said:


    "John Latter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Just a quick note cos I'm pushed for time4 - the bike
    doesn't have quick-release on the front wheel despite
    the Argos blurb saying otherwise (one problem I won't
    have then)

    Steady John, don't confuse a front wheel held in with nuts
    with a front wheel that has a through axle like a
    motorbike. At least with a QR you may periodically remove
    the wheel, because you can easily, so in effect may re-
    tighten it by default. With nuts you may fit and forget but
    if a QR can come loose so can nuts, do check them before
    every ride.

    Okey-doke!

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

  20. On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 22:03:29 +0100, Dave Kahn <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    John Latter said:

    Just a quick note cos I'm pushed for time4 - the bike
    doesn't have quick-release on the front wheel despite
    the Argos blurb saying otherwise (one problem I won't
    have then)

    So that makes 2 points on which it is not as described. :-(

    Quoted message said:

    & it has been the friendliness & knowledge of the
    Halfords staff which I have grown to appreciate.

    You will also encounter some strong anti-Halfords feeling
    in here. They do sell some poor bikes, but they also sell
    some decent ones and if you are lucky with your branch they
    have some good bike staff too.

    It'll probably be awhile before I do buy a new bike & I'll
    make sure I get some advice before I do though. Although I
    may not know much about bikes I have been impressed by home
    friendly & helpful the Halfords staff are - I must be one of
    the lucky ones then!

    --

    John Latter

    Model of an Internal Evolutionary Mechanism (based on an
    extension to homeostasis) linking Stationary-Phase Mutations
    to the Baldwin Effect.
    members.aol.comTEM.html

    'Where Darwin meets Lamarck?' Discussion Egroup
    groups.yahoo.comevomech

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