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Road Cycling
Published
30 April 2008
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2 May 2008
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mkr5000
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  1. Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
    of it for a long time.

    Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
    both of them.

    When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
    really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
    a more foregiving frame?

    What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

    The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
    Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
    etc and noise along with it.

    My question is this --

    What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
    3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

    Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
    is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?

    Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
    of the week.

    (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

  2. mkr5000 said:

    Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
    of it for a long time.

    Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
    both of them.

    When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
    really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
    a more foregiving frame?

    What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

    The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
    Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
    etc and noise along with it.

    My question is this --

    What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
    3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

    Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
    is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?

    Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
    of the week.

    (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

    Tell the shop manager that you're interested in the C'dale, but its shifting
    was lousy. If he or she is on the ball, the bike will be tuned up in four
    minutes.

    HTH, Bill S.

  3. Bill Sornson said:
    mkr5000 said:

    Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
    of it for a long time.

    Quoted message said:

    Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
    both of them.

    Quoted message said:

    When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
    really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
    a more foregiving frame?

    Quoted message said:

    What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

    Quoted message said:

    The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
    Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
    etc and noise along with it.

    Quoted message said:

    My question is this --

    Quoted message said:

    What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
    3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?

    Quoted message said:

    Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what
    is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes?

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end
    of the week.

    Quoted message said:

    (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it).

    Tell the shop manager that you're interested in the C'dale, but its shifting
    was lousy. If he or she is on the ball, the bike will be tuned up in four
    minutes.

    HTH, Bill S.

    Yea, it's probably just a matter of adjusting the shifters. In my
    experience, every new shift system, when properly adjusted (and it's
    not hard) shifts better than any shift system from the old days.
    Doesn't matter the brand.

  4. Yeah, I told them to look at it and call me so I culd try it again..

    We'll see if they take me seriously.

    It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
    and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

    I'll have to see if that smooth Trek shifter is available on a similar
    Cannondale.

    The difference was night and day....just a lttle black lever that
    would click...on the Cannondale, no lever, just move the handlegrip.

  5. mkr5000 said:

    Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
    of it for a long time.

    Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked
    both of them.

    When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I
    really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and
    a more foregiving frame?

    What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system.

    The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The
    Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear
    etc and noise along with it.

    My question is this --

    What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure
    3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism?


    The shifters can be adjusted to work better, just takes a minute or
    two to align the mechanism under the rear of the cogset using the
    barrel adjuster. If you prefer trigger shifters, those are available
    in a model that would work for that bike:
    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=14458&src=froogleUS&currency=USD

    I'm not too hip to disc brakes on road going bikes, though I can
    understand the arguments for in Portland and for areas folks have
    mentioned that have road surfaces that destroy rims--they're mainly
    just a gee-whiz selling point. Inexpensive linear pull brakes work
    better than most folks need. That said, if the 'dale speaks to you,
    get it.

    In defense of the Trek, with the boring old linear pull brakes and
    compliment of mounts, it'll take racks, fenders, and the like, so as
    you get in shape, you can turn it into your utility bike and upgrade
    to a higher zoot exercise model.

  6. mkr5000 said:

    I want to get something before the end
    of the week.

    Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You
    haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the
    Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are
    some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender
    compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have
    to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk
    brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub
    before you settle on a derailleur...

  7. Will said:
    mkr5000 said:

    I want to get something before the end
    of the week.

    Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You
    haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the
    Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are
    some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender
    compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have
    to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk
    brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub
    before you settle on a derailleur...

    Way true. And don't forget used. I'm a big fan of the $500 new bike--
    you get a lot of service and start fresh, but for more expensive
    bikes, the deals on Craigslist are incredible--then pay a shop to dial
    it in. That's what they make their money on anyway.

  8. mkr5000 said:

    Yeah, I told them to look at it and call me so I culd try it again..

    We'll see if they take me seriously.

    It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
    and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

    I'll have to see if that smooth Trek shifter is available on a similar
    Cannondale.

    The difference was night and day....just a lttle black lever that
    would click...on the Cannondale, no lever, just move the handlegrip.

    OK, you're talking two different systems -- STI or Rapid-fire (Shimano road
    or mtb) and SRAM ("Grip-Shift"😉. Both should work beautifully (especially
    when new), but personal preference for one or the other is usually strong.

    And yes, you should be able to equip a bike you like with the shifting setup
    you want.

    Let us know what happens!

    Bill "newbikenewbikenewbikeohboyohboyohboy" S.

  9. In article <[email hidden]>,

    mkr5000 said:

    It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2
    and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket.

    That could be normal -- just a bad chainline.
    Extreme chain angles, especially between the
    outermost (smallest) rear sprocket and the
    innermost front chainring, can make an horrible
    grinding noise, which often comes in part from
    the chain rubbing against one side of the front
    derailer cage, but also from the slanted chain
    trying to pull itself off the individual cogs.

    That particular gear ratio can be obtained more
    pleasantly & relatively silently with your middle
    chainring and one of your in-between rear sprockets.

    The bikes you test-rode no doubt come with a
    setup known as crossover gearing, in which
    certain front chainring/rear sprocket combinations
    are duplicated, but whichever of those duplicates
    keeps the chain the straightest is the more
    preferable choice, and extreme chain angles are
    best avoided.

    If you're interested, here's a good tutorial on
    bicycle gearing arrangements and effects:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html

    The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme
    chain angles better than others, but as I say, extreme
    chain angles are still best avoided. You can still get
    the same front/rear gear ratio with other combinations
    that keep the chain straighter.

    Although my preference currently lies with friction
    (smooth-moving, non-clicky) thumbshifters, I've always
    liked the convenient ease with which slightly out-of-tune
    Twist Grips can make the chain fall into place by
    fudging them a little between and beyond their clicks.
    The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting
    by flexing your wrist for whatever reasons other than
    shifting. I also find Twist Grips too noisy -- by
    clicking so loudly, they tip my hand as to my intentions
    in impromptu, friendly li'l races with fellow riders on
    the street ;-)

    cheers,
    Tom

    --
    Nothing is safe from me.
    I'm really at:
    tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

  10. Tom Keats said:

    The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme
    chain angles better than others...

    A good reason to test a Shimano 8 speed hub... Why fuss with cogs when
    you can always run a good line, always have positive shifts, and
    easily cover (4 oz. plastic chain guard) the drive-train...

    Quoted message said:

    The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting...

    Twists are good for cold weather commuting. It's tough to shift rapid-
    fires with mittens.

  11. The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.

    I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of
    bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them.

    I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here
    throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as
    well.

    I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a
    Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference
    between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat
    suspension, big tires etc.

    And that's my major concern --

    Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
    of Indianapolis.

    So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do
    I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier
    frames and larger tires?

    The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into
    that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting [censored],
    they would be a joy to ride.

    I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make
    me work harder?

    I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend
    half a day test riding.

  12. mkr5000 said:

    The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.

    I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of
    bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them.

    I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here
    throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as
    well.

    I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a
    Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference
    between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat
    suspension, big tires etc.

    And that's my major concern --

    Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
    of Indianapolis.

    So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do
    I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier
    frames and larger tires?

    The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into
    that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting [censored],
    they would be a joy to ride.

    I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make
    me work harder?


    Nah, ya want something with a decent amount of cush that's still
    skinny and light enough to not be piggy. Most of the world figgured
    this out a long time ago--the same tire dimensions you see on touring
    bikes and British 3 speeds is really a great compromise, around
    32-37mm. That said, if you want to start fatter, tires are relatively
    inexpensive to switch out. Bikes in the "comfort" and "hybrid"
    categories usually come with rather nasty tires when it comes to ride
    feel, usually erring on durability. If you've not felt the difference,
    wait a while before spoiling yourself, but it can mean a couple miles
    per hour.

    Suspension forks and posts are pointless on the road for most of us,
    you'll soon learn to lift your bum over bumps, avoid them--if
    possible, but if you like a bike with them--by all means, knock
    yourself out.

    Quoted message said:

    I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend
    half a day test riding.

    Both those bikes could work out, though those of us that have been
    riding a while would probably tire of the very upright position of the
    Trek, and use the adjustable stem to lower the bars. The cockpit of
    the Cannondale's rather nice--but perhaps a bit hunched if your'e
    getting back into the saddle. You want some weight over the front end
    for control, but take your time getting there if your back is not used
    to it--thus a good reason for adjustable angle stems to exist.

    Go ride a bunch more--that's probably the best bet.

  13. mkr5000 said:

    You know those bikes well and now that you mentioned it, I did notice
    a bit more slumped over on the Cannondale.

    I didn't notice that until you mentioned it.

    Ok -- so I'll stick with a "hybrid"... I guess you call them.

    At least I'm getting some help pushed in the right direction.....loved
    the Trek "precision" but the "feel" of the Cannondale.

    I may look at some higher priced bikes as well.....those 2 were around
    5 bills.

    If you're buying new, $500 USD is a really good starting point. It
    gets you a very nice hybrid or "town' bike that can take a rack, bags,
    and all the things that make a bike a thing that gets used. The
    controls are right there, and very handy, and you're upright enough to
    feel safe as you're getting back into cycling. It's what you more or
    less see most of Europe on, but with internally geared hubs. They tend
    to have high bars as they ride a lot of short trips in street clothes,
    but the further you ride, the lower you'll probably want your bars.

    Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
    traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice
    than a city/trekking/hybrid--but the latter's a great place to start,
    very affordable, and never a bad bike to have in the stable.


  14. Quoted message said:

    Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
    traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice
    than a city/trekking/hybrid--but the latter's a great place to start,
    very affordable, and never a bad bike to have in the stable.

    and he does mean "stable". Sooner or later, you'll have a stable. I like to
    think of my bikes as arrows in my quiver---each one with a different use or
    purpose, each one with a different ride.

    🙂

    Pat in TX

  15. landotter said:

    [...]
    Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
    traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice[...]

    How could you forget the recumbent trike? 😉

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

  16. On May 1, 11:53 pm, Tom Sherman <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    landotter said:

    [...]
    Now, if you decide that you want to ride good long distances,
    traditional touring, randonneuring, or road bikes are a better choice[...]

    How could you forget the recumbent trike? 😉


    Usually I imagine Katherine Hepburn in a wheelchair offering me a jar
    of avocado dip. You?

  17. mkr5000 said:

    Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
    of Indianapolis.

    You've got several dealers that carry Bianchi in Indianaoplis. Check
    them out. Bianchi has a really solid lineup of good urban-use road
    bikes. Bikes models like Castro Valley and the Milano series (to name
    two) are great starting points. The bikes have good geometry and
    intelligent design.

  18. Will said:
    mkr5000 said:

    Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets
    of Indianapolis.

    You've got several dealers that carry Bianchi in Indianaoplis. Check
    them out. Bianchi has a really solid lineup of good urban-use road
    bikes. Bikes models like Castro Valley and the Milano series (to name
    two) are great starting points. The bikes have good geometry and
    intelligent design.

    Don't forget Breezer:
    http://www.breezerbikes.com/bike_details.cfm?bikeType=town&frame=d&bike=villager

    And Jamis:
    http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08commuter2.html

    It's easy to miss the bikes that are going to be nice to live with
    among all the [censored] at the LBS's. Fenders and bags aren't sexy--but
    they're a lot sexier than disc brakes and doinger forks when you
    happen upon a yard sale on a March day.

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