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My Snow/Ice Tire

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
25 August 2007
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27 August 2007
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Chexjc
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  1. [image: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i47/chexjc/IMG_1013.jpg]
    [image: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i47/chexjc/IMG_1012.jpg]
    [image: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i47/chexjc/IMG_1015.jpg]
    [image: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i47/chexjc/IMG_1017.jpg]

    First I drilled the pattern I wanted from the outside in with a rotary
    tool and really small drill bit.

    Then I picked up some #10 X 3/4" and some #10 X 5/8" sheet metal screws
    which I hand screwed through the holes.

    It isn't going to snow for another 3 months or so...but where I go to
    school (Oswego, NY), it always snows a crapload. So I'm prepared this
    time 🙂

    In all, it took about 3 hours to complete. My car wouldn't start in the
    Home Depot parking lot...so if you factor that time in it was more like
    5 hours haha.

    5/8" screws = 60
    3/4" screws = 30

    I may add some more screws to the outmost parts of the tire eventually.

    I'm going to lay down a layer of duct tape and slice open an innertube
    to lay in there to protect the other innertube when it comes time to
    put it on.

    What do you guys think?

    --
    Chexjc

    www.myspace.com/thelostguitarist
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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  2. looking good, I await a ride report

    --
    thejdw

    kington99 said:

    A hobnob is an oaty biscuit, the fact that they don't exist in america
    just goes to show that you have no culinary heritage 🙂


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  3. that is a nice idea and sweet that u went thru with it! 🙂

    but dont u reckon u'll find riding on concrete really strange? and if u
    ever do small hops wont the screws wanna push in towards the rim cos of
    the pressure of ur weight bouncing up and down? even if u have ducktape
    and strip of inner tube inside to hold them in place

    --
    manicpanicmuni
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  4. manicpanicmuni said:

    that is a nice idea and sweet that u went thru with it! 🙂

    but dont u reckon u'll find riding on concrete really strange? and if u
    ever do small hops wont the screws wanna push in towards the rim cos of
    the pressure of ur weight bouncing up and down? even if u have ducktape
    and strip of inner tube inside to hold them in place

    Yea, riding on concrete probably would be really strange. But, I don't
    plan to put this tire on until it's really snowing. Right now I have a
    Duro on my muni.

    Yea, I'm curious to see how the screws will hold in place. I will
    probably avoid hopping much if at all with this tire. Because the
    screws go through the nubs of the tire, they're actually in there
    really tight. It wasn't easy screwing them in.

    If they don't hold, I'll have to resort to putting bolts on the outside
    of the wheel.

    My goal is to do some sort of intermission show at a school hockey game
    hahaha. Maybe riding around throwing T-shirts into the crowd or
    something.

    --
    Chexjc

    www.myspace.com/thelostguitarist
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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  5. I think the sharp edges on the heads of those 3/4" screws will play
    havoc rubbing against the tube, (even with the extra tube material you
    lay in for protection). I expect that friction will wear through the
    rubber and cause a flat pretty quick.

    I hope I'm wrong...but I guess we'll find out once you get a chance to
    test it.

    --
    idiorythmic
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  6. idiorythmic said:

    I think the sharp edges on the heads of those 3/4" screws will play
    havoc rubbing against the tube, (even with the extra tube material you
    lay in for protection). I expect that friction will wear through the
    rubber and cause a flat pretty quick.

    I hope I'm wrong...but I guess we'll find out once you get a chance to
    test it.

    Haha, I hope you're wrong too. I don't think they'll be much more
    damaging than the regular heads...I guess we'll find out.

    --
    Chexjc

    www.myspace.com/thelostguitarist
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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  7. I hope others see my comment, I just spent a few minutes looking at some
    of the older threads regarding home-made studded tires and it seems
    lots of people have been doing this, but I haven't seen yet any
    discussion of how long the studs last, or if any tube wear occurs.
    Maybe some of those people will update us on the long-term performance
    of these things.

    One thing I notice, on the 'Kold Kutter'
    (http://www.koldkutter.com/screwtireproducts.htm) site it appears that
    the Kold Kutter studs go in from the -*outside*-, and are just short
    enough to avoid penetrating through the tire. This reinforces my
    feeling that having anything inside the tire, even rounded screw heads,
    is to be avoided.

    I'll be watching to see how your experiment pans out.🙂

    --
    idiorythmic
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  8. Chexjc said:
    manicpanicmuni said:

    that is a nice idea and sweet that u went thru with it! 🙂

    but dont u reckon u'll find riding on concrete really strange? and if u
    ever do small hops wont the screws wanna push in towards the rim cos of
    the pressure of ur weight bouncing up and down? even if u have ducktape
    and strip of inner tube inside to hold them in place

    Yea, riding on concrete probably would be really strange. But, I don't
    plan to put this tire on until it's really snowing. Right now I have a
    Duro on my muni.

    Yea, I'm curious to see how the screws will hold in place. I will
    probably avoid hopping much if at all with this tire. Because the
    screws go through the nubs of the tire, they're actually in there
    really tight. It wasn't easy screwing them in.

    If they don't hold, I'll have to resort to putting bolts on the outside
    of the wheel.

    My goal is to do some sort of intermission show at a school hockey game
    hahaha. Maybe riding around throwing T-shirts into the crowd or
    something.

    A hardcore biking guy i know did this exact same thing, and claimed he
    could ride on anything during the winter with it... and since he rode
    some five or six miles into town a times when people weren't driving
    much because of the roads being bad, i believe him.

    On the Uni, the grip factor should be even more pronounced, as your
    weight is directly over the tire.

    Just don't fall on it!

  9. idiorythmic said:

    One thing I notice, on the 'Kold Kutter'
    (http://www.koldkutter.com/screwtireproducts.htm) site it appears that
    the Kold Kutter studs go in from the -*outside*-, and are just short
    enough to avoid penetrating through the tire. This reinforces my
    feeling that having anything inside the tire, even rounded screw heads,
    is to be avoided.

    I'll be watching to see how your experiment pans out.🙂

    Oh wow, I didn't even notice that before when I looked at their
    webpage. That actually seems to make a lot more sense. That way the
    screws can't be pushed back into the tire.

    I also looked back on some older threads and on some other mountain
    bike websites, where a number of people did it this way. Well, I'll see
    what happens and I'll definitely post back in this thread when I get
    the tire on. If my method fails, I'll probably order some of those
    Kold-Kutter screws.

    --
    Chexjc

    www.myspace.com/thelostguitarist
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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  10. idiorythmic said:

    I think the sharp edges on the heads of those 3/4" screws will play
    havoc rubbing against the tube, (even with the extra tube material you
    lay in for protection). I expect that friction will wear through the
    rubber and cause a flat pretty quick.

    I hope I'm wrong...but I guess we'll find out once you get a chance to
    test it.


    couldn't you get one of the heavier rim tapes and put it on the inside
    of the tire, to protect the tube from the screw heads? Some of the
    heavy duty nylon stuff would go a long way to preventing a puncture, i
    think.

  11. Your screws are sticking out too far... they will possibly fold over
    putting more torsion on the knobs nearly defeating the purpose of them.

    --
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  12. Borgschulze said:

    Your screws are sticking out too far... they will possibly fold over
    putting more torsion on the knobs nearly defeating the purpose of them.

    Maybe, you have to remember that the tire has a different, thinner
    shape when it's on the rim. Those longer screws on the outside won't
    make half as much contact with the ground as the shorter ones closer to
    the center will.

    They may fold on concrete, but probably not on an inch of snow/ice.

    Here is a small collection of links that I looked at:

    http://tinyurl.com/2atbq8

    http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tires.htm

    http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45022

    http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37762

    Thanks to UniBrier for finding most of those.

    --
    Chexjc

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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  13. sorry man but hose screws are way to long. go back to the hardware store
    and get some 3/8" or 1/2" long screws you want them to stick out
    between 1 and 4mm. If they are too long they will fold, possibly
    ripping the lug, especially if you are running lower pressures.

    I have found that the best screws to use are the self tapping round
    head metal screws (like your 5/8" screws) because they will not wear
    down as fast as standard metal screws.

    You really need to get those sheet metal screws out of there as they
    will shred your inner and whatever you put in there to protect it. Use
    screws all of the same length as the side lugs are used in turning they
    have more of a tendency to fold so you do not want longer studs in
    them.

    Keep in mind that you still need the tire to slide a little bit when
    turning and that it is very easy to get a pinch flat when you have
    metal hardware inside the tire so add a second inner-tube split along
    the inside and stuck between your tire and tube and keep the tire a
    little bit harder than you normally would.

    Im not trying to discourage you but help you get the most winter fun
    out of your uni

    Best of luck

    ERIC

    edit: I have the 26X2.3 version of that tire as my winter tire on the
    front of my bike. I used 90 3/8" #8 Robertson round headed self tapping
    metal screws. It works great.

    --
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  14. saskatchewanian said:

    sorry man but hose screws are way to long. go back to the hardware store
    and get some 3/8" or 1/2" long screws you want them to stick out
    between 1 and 4mm. If they are too long they will fold, possibly
    ripping the lug, especially if you are running lower pressures.

    I have found that the best screws to use are the self tapping round
    head metal screws (like your 5/8" screws) because they will not wear
    down as fast as standard metal screws.

    You really need to get those sheet metal screws out of there as they
    will shred your inner and whatever you put in there to protect it. Use
    screws all of the same length as the side lugs are used in turning they
    have more of a tendency to fold so you do not want longer studs in
    them.

    Keep in mind that you still need the tire to slide a little bit when
    turning and that it is very easy to get a pinch flat when you have
    metal hardware inside the tire so add a second inner-tube split along
    the inside and stuck between your tire and tube and keep the tire a
    little bit harder than you normally would.

    Im not trying to discourage you but help you get the most winter fun
    out of your uni

    Best of luck

    ERIC

    edit: I have the 26X2.3 version of that tire as my winter tire on the
    front of my bike. I used 90 3/8" #8 Robertson round headed self tapping
    metal screws. It works great.

    Thanks for your advice. What if I were to put the 5/8" screws in to
    replace all the of 3/4" screws I have in there?

    I know that even the 5/8" are a bit too long...but do you think they'd
    work at a really high psi?

    After all the work I put into this, I don't really want to take it all
    apart and change every screw. I might as well order some Kold-Kutter
    screws.

    --
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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  15. 5/8" all around might work, you would stick to packed snow like nothing
    else. It may be hard to turn with that much traction. If you have
    really high PSI the screws might not fold over but your tire will feel
    like a rock. Also remember that PSI changes with temperature, If you
    store your uni inside the pressure will increase as the tire warms and
    decrease again when you bring it back outside.

    If you want to stick with the longer screws using only half as many may
    be better for handling. The best way to figure it all out is to
    experiment once the snow is on the ground.

    --
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  16. saskatchewanian said:

    If you want to stick with the longer screws using only half as many may
    be better for handling. The best way to figure it all out is to
    experiment once the snow is on the ground.

    Very true.

    Thanks again for the advice.

    --
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    Brian O. said:


    brendan said:


    when i flex both arms one looks puny next to the other. Mind you it was
    that way after years of badminton...

    And maybe playing a little too much with the shuttlecock as well?
    Hmm? 😉


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  17. I've ridden a mountain bike quite a bit with factory studded tires. The
    factory studs stick out only about 1/8" and do a great job on snow and
    ice. That's on a mountain bike too, where you don't have all of your
    weight on one tire. If the snow is fresh and not packed you don't even
    need studs. You're better off with shorter studs than longer ones.
    Sasketchewanian knows what he's talking about. Good luck with your
    experiement. Half the fun in making something like that is in the
    construction.

    --
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  18. yea it's actually better to put the screws in the other way, then snip
    off the points on the inside. that way the head will grip the snow/ice,
    and it won't be able to bend over.

    --
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  19. I'd say just try it the way you have it, then modify it if you don't
    like it... see how all the different methods work. I have heard that
    that method makes it really squirrely on concrete, but that's not the
    point now is it? Nice work... make sure you let us know how it goes.

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  20. i did the same thing. the screws caused a pinch flat every time. try
    light weight chains looped around the tire. you won't need many. i used
    eight for a 20". leave them loose. they will smash into place after
    the first ride. =D

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