My new Schlumpf

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

damn your so lucky. i hope you ride her well.

--
c9ollie
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Can you please explain exactly what the brake setup is? Somehow you've
put Maguras on it, with some kind of arch thing that keeps them
equidistant apart. Are they actually fitted to the standard Schlumpf
brake mounts somehow?

It's just I have a V-brake on my Schlumpf, which seems to be a total
waste of time. The only way I've got the pads to keep away from the rim
is to have them so far apart that the brake only provides a gradual
slowing effect when the lever is yanked on fully.

And I still have occasional problems with the flexy frame doing it's
best to make sure that the pads rub the wheel when idling in low gear,
or getting the thing moving in high gear.

Tigger said:

...can shift to both gears with out crashing.😄

I can do that, bit of a shame that I have to dismount first.:o

--
gkmac

"Those who can, do. Those who can't, take the pictures." - tomblackwood
"As it only hurts when you walk, will you be riding everywhere now?" -
mikepenton
"gkmac... what are we going to do with you." - Chexjc
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He appears to be using what's called the 'evolution brake mounts'
(http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7833), common
amongst bikers it's a system for using magura brakes with V-brake mount
posts, as very few bikes have the 4 bolt magura brake mounts which us
unicyclists are blessed with.

--
kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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Is it a clotterles hub?

--
thejdw

dunawan said:

why are koxx one unicycles so costly???

forrestunifreak said:

They are expensive because they use only the finest soft drink cans.

😄 😄 2 unispins landed!😄 😄

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

don't follow Jesus, follow me!<<

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gkmac said:

Can you please explain exactly what the brake setup is? Somehow you've
put Maguras on it, with some kind of arch thing that keeps them
equidistant apart. Are they actually fitted to the standard Schlumpf
brake mounts somehow?

Ooh, ooh, sir, I know this sir...
Magura brakes come with mounts to attach them to normal cantilever
brake mounts (same as V-brake mounts). The bottom of the clamp
attaches to the canti boss and the top has an adjustable hook-shaped
thing that sticks out and presses against the inside of the fork to
stop it moving around. If you've got flexible forks (or a bendy
Schlumpf unicycle frame) you can add a brake booster, which is the
u-shaped thing you can see in the picture - it just attaches between
the two mounting bolts and stops the forks bending apart when the brake
is applied.

Rob

--
rob.northcott

'Dartmoor Muni Weekend'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46116) - Last
weekend in May 2006
'Same again this year anyone?'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57785) It'll be
dry, I promise.
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thejdw said:

Is it a clotterles hub?

ya it's a cotterless hub. the new kh that's coming out whenever is
splined I believe, correct me if I'm wrong.

--
gordito8me

29er or 36er? can't decide
either way I have like 54 bucks so nothing too great.
radial 360 or nimbus 29er????
helllpppp!!!!
helllpppp!!!!
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gordito8me said:

correct me if I'm wrong.

I don't have the knowledge to correct you 🙁

--
thejdw

dunawan said:

why are koxx one unicycles so costly???

forrestunifreak said:

They are expensive because they use only the finest soft drink cans.

😄 😄 2 unispins landed!😄 😄

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

don't follow Jesus, follow me!<<

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gkmac said:

It's just I have a V-brake on my Schlumpf, which seems to be a total
waste of time. The only way I've got the pads to keep away from the rim
is to have them so far apart that the brake only provides a gradual
slowing effect when the lever is yanked on fully.

Magura brakes generally have a lower clearance on the wheel, so will be
even worse for what's going wrong with yours.

Get someone who knows v-brakes to look at yours, maybe at BUC. Even on
the original frame I had v-brakes set up just right and working fine
(until the frame snapped). I did need a hand from Joe McLean to get
them setup right. If you're getting the problems you describe then
something is wrong with your setup. There's not much point spending
money on maguras, as you'll have exactly the same problems.

Fitting a brake booster might make a difference to the flexyness of the
schlumpf frame though and might just make your brakes a little more
efficient. You can get them for normal brakes.

When v-brakes are setup right, they work super well (about as well as
Maguras), and have the advantage of being more robust than maguras.
I've used mine enough now to be wearing down the pads pretty
noticeably, and they're still working fantastic.

Maguras stick out less though, which is an advantage, but they're a bit
of a nightmare in terms of breaking hydraulic lines, particularly if
you're doing rocky muni. They do have the advantage of being able to
completely lock the wheel very well, which is great for bike trials,
but doesn't add much on a unicycle.

By the way, you should put in the time to learn to shift. It's really
worth doing. Unless you have size 5 feet and 175mm cranks or clip
pedals it's perfectly possible to do, just a matter of learning how to
move your feet around on the pedals to the right place. I practice
against a lamp-post, so I get the feel of kicking it.

Joe

--
joemarshall

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By the way, I just took my Schlumpf on a weekend's road/muni riding.
About 80km of road riding, 50-60km of proper good muni, plus two nights
bivvying. It was fab. It would have been hard to do on any other uni
(perhaps a coker, but I would have walked some of the downhills).

Joe

--
joemarshall

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joemarshall said:

If you're getting the problems you describe then something is wrong with
your setup.

Having just re-read my post, the problem is nowhere near as bad as I
described. I did need to adjust the... I don't know what they're
called, but the springs that make the pads retract equally when you
release the lever... I had to tweak those the other week since the pads
no longer equally retracted. Dunno what caused that, but I did get them
back to what they were before...

The "nearest to perfect" adjustment on mine is that one of the brake
pads only touches -slightly- when idling with the "wrong" foot down. As
far as I know the pads never get in the way of idling with the "right"
foot down, riding forward, even when freemounting and getting going in
high gear.

The pads never lock the wheel, but I regard that as a good thing since
if the wheel were to lock at 10mph plus...

joemarshall said:

By the way, you should put in the time to learn to shift. It's really
worth doing. Unless you have size 5 feet and 175mm cranks or clip
pedals it's perfectly possible to do, just a matter of learning how to
move your feet around on the pedals to the right place. I practice
against a lamp-post, so I get the feel of kicking it.

I have tried doing that at the juggling clubs' hall a few times,
succeeding a few times in clicking from low to high just before I meet
the other end of the hall...

The biggest problem I have is that my riding shoes (Five-Ten impact
high-top) have such grippy soles that they just don't seem to let me
adjust my footing at all! There's also the problem of the shape of the
cranks, the buttons are kind of recessed so I can't easily get my heel
into the middle. Most of the time despite my best efforts to twist my
heels in, my shoes just rub the buttons without clicking them in.

--
gkmac

"Those who can, do. Those who can't, take the pictures." - tomblackwood
"As it only hurts when you walk, will you be riding everywhere now?" -
mikepenton
"gkmac... what are we going to do with you." - Chexjc
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I first run Magura's on my bike in the mid ninty's, when you order the
magura brakes as a set they assume you have traditional brake mounts so
they give you the frame adaptors with the brakes. The arch keeps the
brakes alleigned with the canti brake adptors. On the schlumpf you can
move the post up and down so you can get the proper placement on the
rim.

As for Shifting the trick I found is slightly move your foot so your
toes would be over the center of the pedal then with your heel hit the
button when your foot is in the foward possion on the cranks, thats how
I figured it out. Gearing down is really funky till your legs get used
to it.😉

--
Tigger

Ride it like you stole it from someone who didn't know how to use it!
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Tigger said:

As for Shifting the trick I found is slightly move your foot so your
toes would be over the center of the pedal then with your heel hit the
button when your foot is in the foward possion on the cranks, thats how
I figured it out. Gearing down is really funky till your legs get used
to it.😉

Yep, that's how I shift. Take the weight off/ lift up my foot slightly
so the pedal isn't grippy, then I can move it around. Then put it as
far back as I can and kick the button.

Once I got used to it shifting down turned out much easier than up.

Joe

--
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